Hey I'm new to the forum, hello everyone! I love the site.

I bought a Kenmore FL for the family I was staying with (as a gift) and was not happy with its cleaning performance (didn't use enough water, and my clothes came out with strong odors. Energy Star is absolute garbage!)

I moved out and am now looking for a different brand FL for myself -- one which has a visible water level during the cycle, and basically does plenty of "sloshing". Do these still exist in the American market? I was looking into the Danby DWM5500W which supposedly offers 3 water level settings and a "water plus" switch.

Has anyone had experience with Danby DWM5500W and could offer feedback, or recommend something else?

HI and welcome to this club. Yes you will find many of these here and also very pleased customers.

I have the Kenmore and am quite satisified with the cycle settings "I CHOOSE".

Hope you find your washer.

Steve

WELCOME

Welcome, to this great Club, first of all. It is interesting and sad to hear that you bought a Kenmore Front-Load for your Friends and it isn't Washing as well as one would expect for any Kenmore Washers. Next, what kind of Laundry are you looking into doing, as far as being just for youself and do you have any fairly large items that would need a larger size Capacity Washer and Dryer? I still really like the original "Fridgemore" Washers, but specifically in the Kenmore Model Series of them, or maybe the Frigidaire Models. I've had some Friends around here that have bought them and are real happy with them, even the Dryers. Some of my Friends have also adjusted the Water Level in these Washers, to allow a higher Water Level for the Wash and Rinsing and supposidly they are the only Models that you can adjust the Water Level's on anyway. Some of the Guys on the Club Site have thought that the Dryer's Capacity could be somewhat larger, but most all of my Friends that have the Matching Dryer Set, really like them. These can also if you might not know already be Stacked, with the Dryer on Top of the Washer. These are also on a Close-Out now, because of the new Models arriving, they are discontinued, but not for a wrongful reason. I think and feel that they are still one of the best Models of Front-Load Washers and Matching Dryers, other than the older Maytag Neptune's, unless you really want to go back into time, then most of the original Front-Loaders were much better than the newer ones, especially for using more Water, allowing more Splashing.

As with everyone else, it is basically your decision and I'm not trying to just add info to you as with everyone else, to confuse you, but just to give another opinion of some Brands/Models to check out. Good Luck with your research and decision.

Peace and Happy Front-Load Washing, Steve
SactoTeddyBear...

Thanks to all who replied. SactoTeddyBear I am just looking for something regular, as it's only myself. I agree that the older FL's were much better than what's being put out now and would be willing to get something used. Would like to check the Frigidaire/Frigemores you mentioned, any model numbers?

Basically the FL must have a visible water level, or at least something I can adjust to maximize water use. I should go with a TL for these reasons but I like that my colors don't fade and the fabric doesn't seem to get as stretched when I use a FL. Plus I love the window....hehe.

Hi! Mistervain I just sent you an E-Mail with some more info, hope it helps. "BTW" I can't blame anyone for not wanting a Washer or even a Dryer without a Window, to watch what's going on with the Laundry. Even though I've got one of the 2nd Generations of the first "3000" Neptune's if I had it to do all over again, I would never get a Front-Load Washer without a Window and probably no any Dryers now either, without a Window...

Cheers, Steve "STB"

Mistervain,

I think the Danby's have a water plus button which raises the water level for the rinses - bear in mind that whilst rinses are best off being deep a low level of water in the wash is best for most laundry loads.

Of course if you could afford it Miele's can always be programmed in to do high level rinses (water almost halfway up the drum for rinsing), but then they are just a *little* bit expensive LOL. But even so, the TOL Asko, which IIRC doesn't cost *that much* when you consider the potential lifespan of the machine (although they haven't exactly been proven as Miele have), has an extra water button which raises the water level up the glass for both the wash and rinse.

FWIW, I much prefer dryers, at least European ones, with solid doors. Not only do these solid door dryers have a filter in the door which gives for better filtration of the exhaust air from lint, but the solid doors also prevent heat loss which can occur with dryers that have glass, or even worse plastic windows. IMO I think seeing the action doesn't really matter with dryers, but is definitely a must with a washer just for the sake of checking on suds levels.

Hope this helps,

Jon

Actually, Danbys don't have a water plus button. That is documented in the online manual, but the current models don't work that way. That button selects a gentle wash on cotton cycles. They had to change it to keep the energy star rating. It's unfortunate, but the government won't let them increase the water level and keep their energy star rating. There may be a way to hack it by adjusting the water level sensor, but nobody has done that so far.

Steve

Hi! Stephenr0 welcome to this great Club of sharing, caring, loving people that have helped each other out with problemed Machine Repairs.

There is also a lot of us who have either "via" E-Mail or talking on the Phone with each other, besides the ability to get to meet in person, that have gotten to know each other better.

What if any Collection do you have of Vintage Washers, Dryers and/or other Appliances?

Peace and Happy Fun Times, Steve
SactoTeddyBear...

Thanks for the welcome. I can't say that I have much experience with vintage machines, but I do have a Danby. I like it. It basically seems to be a good value.

Steve

Steve whats the water level like on your Danby?

As I think is usual for these things, it takes a while to decide how much to fill it. When it finally gets done, it seems to be somewhere a little below the door. It seems to be enough, though. The fact that the drum is not tilted probably helps. The capacity of these things is deceptive. I had a mid-80s Speed Queen before. I get almost as much in my Danby as I used to in the Speed Queen. Actually, I was probably overloading the Speed Queen at that. And doing a small load in the Danby is way more efficient. I think that's a real benefit. The Danby dryer is a good match for the washer. It seems to not get as hot as my old dryer, but gets the clothes dry nicely. I have found that I can put enough t-shirts in the washer that the dryer gets them wrinkled trying to dry them. I've decided that I overloaded both the washer and the dryer when this happens.

Steve

Danby washers like Miele's no longer have the "extra water" option. IIRC this feature was discontinued on North American sold models a year or so ago. The button is still on the panel though, but it has been renamed and does something else.

Think Danby had to drop the extra water option in order to gain the Energy Star rating.

Launderess

Everytime I have used the Kenmore FL I get nothing but underarm-odor residue .... these machines don't use enough water. Never had this problem with a TL obviously. In the meantime I've looking into a commercial FL but that poses another set of problems with the installation, etc.

Would like to complain to whoever decides this "Energy Star" nonsense! And if anyone knows where to get this Danby with the magic switch please let me know....

Also, is an Energy Star qualification legally required for a new FL washer to be allowed on the market? I'm wondering why all these manufacturers are boasting of what is turns out to be a serious flaw with their machines.

the Gov't determines the "energy Star" nonesense for appliances-I am hoping the Republican administration will kill this useless requirements.Let the MARKETPLACE-not gov't determine what washers and appliances will be in the marketplace.Its the older design TL machines that don't meet the Energy Star requirements.I can agree-you need WATER to clean and rinse both clothes and dishes.If the Energy Star requirements contin ue-most traditional TL designes cannot be made any longer-would suggest contacting your Senators and Congressmen on this issue.Tell them you don't like these laws and to defeat them.I feel it would allow more flexibility in appliance designs if the regs were thrown out. Again the customer is in a better position to determine what machine fits his needs.

Mistervain, regarding underarm odor residue, I would suggest adding some 20 Mule Team Borax or Borateem as an additive. Tomturbomatic does this to his shirts during the summer for this reason, makes htem very clean smelling. Tom has done this for years. I hope this doesn't come across the wrong way, but don't put all the blame on the machine's design. Is enough detergent being used; how hard is the water; is the fabric being washed in hot enough water.

Cool will check out the Borax. I have tried everything else. I just need more water!

Meantime has anyone looked at this site? www.bestbuylaundry.com they sell refurbished commercial washers. Am interested in something like this, but have been told I need an 8" high platform to set the machine on, a gravity drain in the ground, and a stainless steel mount to bolt down the washer too !! The lengths I'm considering for what I want....

Mistervain,

It's a general misapprehension that you need lots of water in the wash phase in a frontloader. It's important that while tumbling the clothes fall on the side of the drum, not in the water. In that way they get a similar treatment as clothes beaten on a rock, but more gentle than that. If you have ever watched people in other countries do laundry that way you will have noticed that the rock on which they beat the clothes is above water level, not under it. Beating the clothes on a rock that is in the water isn't very effective, the water would cushion the wash effect. Ofcourse you the clothes need to be wet, some kind of circulation system helps with that.

As for rinsing, that's a whole different story.

BTW, may I ask what detergent was used in the Kenmore FL?

I have tried everything, HE detergent, powder, liquid, you name it.

The low/non-existent water level has worked fine for dirt removal, but I would rather wear clothes with stains than ones that reek of underarm, even after multiple washings. The consumer ought to be able to decide the water level based on their needs. There's no way clothes are getting clean when there's not any water coursing through them.

Underarms stains on shirts need to be treated BEFORE laundering for best results. White vinegar for old stains, liquid detergent or pre-treatment product for fresh. If you use liquid detergent, subtract the amount used for pre-treatment from the total for laundry. Or, just pre-soak your shirts in a tub with a good enzyme product for an hour.

Regarding commercial untis: there are "soft mount" commercial washing machines about which have built in pump/drain systems and some even run on 120v/single phase power.

If you want "more" water for washing shirts, get yourself a twin tub washer, vintage or modern. Not exactly "automatic" washing, but you have more control over the washing process.

Launderess

Steve, welcome to our club!

Jon is right about the Danby not having a way to raise the water level in the rinse. The water plus button raises the water level in the cotton wash cycle. The water level is automatically raised in the other cycles, the rinse and in the pre-wash.

Steve, I’m not sure where you’re getting your information about the government not letting Danby raise the water level anymore, but my Danby has the water plus button rather than the gentle wash button and it’s energy star compliant. I purchased it from a Danby dealer. I have seen the ones with the gentle wash button at places like Home Depot and have only seen the ones with the water plus button at dealers. The dealer told me that dealers are the only ones that carry the model with this option, and do still have them (my information is coming from what the dealer said which may or may not be correct). I tend to believe Laundress more since I’ve never seen Laundress write anything that was incorrect or grammatically incorrect on this site.

Jeff

That’s Launderess not Laundress.

JEFF thanks for the info....what's the highest your water level gets? Could you post a picture of it during the wash? And when did you buy your Danby?

Jeff,

Well, when I got my Danby, I noticed the difference between my machine and the manual on the Danby web site. When I called Danby to find out why they were different, that's what they told me. Of course, I'm glossing over a lot of discussion with them about it, but that's what they came up with. They agreed that it was unfortunate that they hadn't updated their web site. Actually, they still haven't changed their web site. I suppose they fall back on their disclaimer that the specifications could change. However, I'm very interested in how your machine is wired. I suspect that the change they made was a relatively simple wiring change. From examination of my wiring diagram, it appears that the water level switch has more than one level available. Is there any way that you could make a picture of your wiring diagram available to me? It's on the under side of the top of the machine.

Steve

I bought mine about a year and a half ago, and I love it. It holds more than you would think. It holds a 10 lb. cotton load. I put 10 lbs. of towels in and it seems to work a little hard, but they all came out clean. The drum volume is 1.69 cu. Ft. My Neptune is 3.34 cu. Ft. (1.69 + 1.69 = 3.38) so it’s about half the size of the Neptune. I tried to put a king sized comforter in it, but it just won’t fit through the door (the drum is bigger than the door opening).

Here is the water level on the cotton cycle. It is well below the door (washing is a long john top and bottom on each picture).

The water level on the cotton cycle with the water plus button pushed. It is just at the door and the door can still be opened without a flood. I use this for washing my 2 roommates work clothes. They are plumbers and sometimes their clothes are covered in dirt, mud, sweat, or plumbing glue. The Danby does take out odors, too. The water plus button seems to cause a showering effect which is great for washing work clothes. I do not use with towels since it seems to cause excessive foam.

The water level in the perm press cycle is just above the door. The machine will always let you open the door about 1 to 2 minutes after the power button is in the off position, but if you open it now you better have a mop handy. Also, I have noticed that when a full load is washing the machine uses more water. The clothes absorb the water and if you stop the washer for a few minutes the water drains out of the clothes and the water level rises.

Steve, I’ve seen the inside of the machine and I have noticed that there are 2 water levels and they seem to be adjustable, but I did not mess with them since there are many places to adjust them. I think three screws on each one. Wait until the long johns finish and I’ll see what I can do.

Jeff, by two water levels, I assume you mean two water level pressure switches. I noticed that. I believe the one with the red dot is to make sure that the heater doesn't turn on without enough water in the drum. I currently believe the one with the green dot is the one for the normal wash, but I suspect that it is capable of returning more than one level depending on how it is switched. That's my current theory anyway. I saw all the adjustment screws on the switches and the glyptol on them and was scared off messing with them. :-) I'll be interested in what you find out.

Steve

Thanks for the photos Jeff. The perm press cycle has the kind of water level I am looking for. Hopefully these models are still available?

Exactly Steve, I meant water level switches like these:

Steve, I e-mailed you the wiring diagram. Its 8 pictures and I did not want to take up a lot of space on the site. Did you get it?

Jeff

Yes, I did. Thanks. Now to see what I can figure out.

Steve

Well, it's pretty obvious. The only problem is that my machine has a simple open and close switch and yours has a single post, double throw switch. I guess I'll have to figure out if my machine really has a switch like yours and is used in a more simple fashion so I can rewire it or if I'm going to have to find (maybe order) a more complicated switch. We'll have to see how it goes.

Steve

Mistervain, I’m not sure if these models are still available. It sounds like the dealer may have sold me an old machine, but that’s okay because I like this one better. I called the dealer today and they are out of business. They only do service now. The availability probably depends on your area. Put your zip code in the dealer locater page at the Danby website, or check with your local Home Depot. The link is the Danby site.

Good luck, Steve. I thought about adjusting the screws on the water level control, but I’ve never seen one like that before. Let me know what you end up doing.

Jeff

Water level switch was indeed the "first" Danby washer to sell in the US. Subsequent models had the water plus button switched out. Proof of this is that the new models still used (or still use for all one knows)the same owners manual as the previous one which list features like the extra water buttton which is no longer there.

L.

Hello I'm deaf.

Can you make the video (movie) about the Danby's wash action (activity), rinse and spin? (run wash tumble of 2 directions drive)....is that OK? Thanks! ;-)

- Peter (kenmorepeter5)

Jeff I am definitely going to check out some of the dealers in my area. I appreciate the tip and everyone's feedback. This topic has taken on a life of its own!

I'm very interested to find out what happens from playing with the wiring on the water level switches....

I made the modification. From Jeff's clear descriptions, I have the same water level that he does when he pushes the water plus button. I couldn't use the gentle wash button because it is a simpler switch than what Jeff has. So I chose to buy a switch and mount it on the back of the machine. I found a switch that fit the left shipping rod hole. The way that I've wired it, up gives me more water and down gives me less. Seems logical. It would also be possible to simply wire it to always have the extra water on the cotton cycles and not bother with a switch. That would be a simple wiring change. Of course, you could drill a hole in the front of the machine and make the switch more accessible, if you want. I'm still in the middle of the first wash. I need to try it both ways some more to make sure that I don't smoke something. But I think I have it right. If you think that watching your Danby from the front with a flashlight is fun, you should try watching it with the top off. It's quite cute inside. :-)

Steve

That’s great, Steve! I know you’re happy. The switch is good to have when you wash towels, because on the higher water level; towels seem to have too many suds due to the showering effect the higher water level causes. Can you still use the gentle wash button?

Jeff

Yes, I didn't disturb the wiring of the gentle wash button. I'm not sure when I would ever use it, though. I see what you mean about the towels. My test load is a set of towels. This is a small load and I'm using an eighth cup (two tablespoons) of Ariel Baja Espuma with fairly hard water (but magnetized, which is another story). I suspect that it wouldn't suds as much with a full load to use up the detergent. Baja Espuma is a low suds detergent. I'll have to get more experience with it.

Steve

STEVE I'm not electronics-knowledgeable at all but if you rigged it like that couldn't anyone? Meaning would all the Danbys have those same switches you played with.

Actually, I didn't do anything with the Danby's switches. What I did was to add a switch so I could switch between two water level sensors like Jeff can. All Danbys seem to have the same water level pressure switches, unless they change that at some point. All that is needed is to add a switch to take advantage of them. At least that is my current experience. The nice thing is that Danbys don't have an embedded computer in the traditional sense like the Askos and Mieles. If they did, it would be much harder to modify them. Danbys use a reasonably sophisticated timer to get everything done. You can think of it as a mechanical computer. There's a logic board, but I believe it handles the low level logic to do things like handle the back and forth motion of the drum. This is just a guess. This was all facilitated by the fact that Jeff has a wiring diagram of the old machine. The old and new diagrams are identical except for the change that they made to get rid of the water plus button and make it a gentle wash button.

Steve

Jeff,

I have a question about your experience with your machine. The manual for your machine (from the Danby web site) says that the water plus button only works for the A and B cycles. I doesn't mention the C or D cycles, but does say that you can't change the water level for the delicate and woolens cycle. It looks to me that my switch changes the water level for the C and D cycles as well. I haven't tried the permanent press cycles. Have you determined which cycles work with the water plus button?

Steve

Steve,

The water plus button works anywhere on the dial during the wash portion of the cotton cycle between “B” and the cool down. I’ve tested it by pushing the button anywhere in that range and it will fill until the water plus level is reached. “A” (pre-wash) is always the same water level as the cotton cycle w/ the water plus button pushed and so are the rinses in the cotton cycle. The perm press cycle has a slightly higher water level. “K” which is the rinse in the perm press cycle before the only intermediate spin, has the highest water level of all which happens to be the same as the Wool cycle’s water level.

Jeff

Sounds good, thanks.

Steve

Jeff I want your Danby! My condo doesn't have W/D hookups though....:(

Patrick, to have a Danby you only need a drain and a cold water hook-up. The Danby works great as a cold fill only washer like the ones they have in Europe. The heater works great to heat the water. It’s actually made by Gorenje. Check out their web site. They are world wide and have a touch screen washer.

Jeff

Here's the English link.

Thanks for the info Jeff....I emailed Danby and they said I needed the hookups in my condo to use it....but if what u r saying is true how could I hook it up since I'd have to use the tub or kitchen faucet to fill and drain? Sorry for the seemingly dumb questions but I'm just seeing if there's a way I can do this.

Kitchen faucet connection is easy. You'll need a "quick Connect" faucet adaptor set(found in any hardware store), and perhaps a "Y" connector if the washer needs both hot and cold water lines connected. If the unit does not need both lines connected, cap off the hot water line and connect the one hose to the cold water line. Water temp is selected from the faucet, but the unit will sense wash water temps and "heat" where necessary.

If the washer requires both hot and cold water lines, hook up the quick connect adaptor and use the "y" connector to split the one hose off the faucet to two separate water lines, "hot" and "cold". Again water temp will be decided at the faucet and the washer will "heat" where needed. This means if you choose "hot" wash and the water is warm, the heater will kick in (certian cycles only). If you choose a warm wash and the water is too cool, the same.

These instructions are for kitchen faucets that are single, if you have two separate taps, you just need two quick connect adaptor kits (one for each tap and hose) and complete installation as usual.

Problem with using quick connect adaptors is you are tying up the kitchen sink until laundry is done. You may wish to look into having a plumber install connections under the sink off the existing pipes. This would allow you to do laundry while not tying up the kitchen taps.

Launderess

THANK YOU Launderess! I'm going to look into this....and find me a Danby with the water level options! :)

Jeff whats the exact model number of yours ? I don't want to get the version that doesn't have the water plus button.

"Problem with using quick connect adaptors is you are tying up the kitchen sink until laundry is done. You may wish to look into having a plumber install connections under the sink off the existing pipes. This would allow you to do laundry while not tying up the kitchen taps."

Sometimes, though, those quick connect adapters will drip a little while under pressure, and while being disconnected. This wil drip water into your undersink cabinet, so be aware

Someone posted something about this in a "hacking your Danby" topic on THS (might have been you?). Well, *finally* a hackable modern washer! I despair of all the computer-controlled "idiot-proof" stuff that's also "genius-proof" and can't be modified. There is a magazine called "Make" that's geared toward people who like to hack everyday technology; they would probably publish an article on that if you wanted to write one. www.makezine.com

Re. sink hookups:

Check your manual and/or call Danby before trying the sink hookups for the FL; there may be an issue with regard to a need for a certain minimum water pressure.

The way to prevent a sink/faucet hose from dripping where it shouldn't, is simply to have it drop down a bit before it goes back up to exit the sink. Think of a "u" shape, where one end of the "u" is into the faucet, and the other end is curving up before exiting the sink.

The other thing is, I don't know that there are any FLs that are designed to be wheeled around on casters like portables; the spin cycle vibration would tend to make them scoot around on the floor. In fact, if you're using temporary connections, watch out for the scoot factor; you definitely don't want the washer to pull its water connections loose.

Mistervain, the on line manual at the Danby web site (which documents the old machine) is model DWM5500W. My printed manual which is for the new one is model DWM5500W-1. That may be the difference. Good luck finding the old one. If you can't, you can always hack it. :-)

Steve

Thanks designgeek for the info. STEVE I have called around and no luck finding the Danby with the water-plus button. The only thing feature a salesperson mentioned is the extra rinse button. So I'd have to buy it and hack the system but would definitely need some guidance from someone who's done it! Let me know what would be necessary (tools, procedure, etc.)

The Danby does have a hot and cold hook-up, so you will need to split the one hose off the faucet to two separate water lines, "hot" and "cold" on the back of the machine, as Launderess mentioned above with a “Y” connector.

Designgeek brought up another interesting point. The machine should be placed near the sink in a permanent spot and leveled since you will not want to keep moving it.

The model number on mine is DWM5500W as mentioned by StephenRO. The new model has a “-1” after the model number. The easiest way to tell the difference in the models is to look at the buttons on the machine. The 3rd button from the top is either “water plus” or “gentle wash.”

As far as hacking it goes, Steve hacked his and it seemed to be very easy for him. Perhaps he will share with you how he did it. On the other hand, I have a friend that has the Danby w/ the “gentle wash” button and he likes his machine. The “water plus button” is a nice feature, but it’s not necessary for clean clothes.

Good Luck,
Jeff

Here's how to make the modification to the newer Danby washers to get back
the water plus functionality that the first version had. You need to be
prepared to do quality work. This procedure is not particularly
difficult, but if you aren't confident about it, you should probably find
someone that's used to these things to help. Of course, I take no
responsibility if you smoke your machine. I'm sure this will void the
warranty, as well.

o First, you have to take the top off the washer. It's only held by two
screws in back and easily slides to the rear to be removed. On the under
side of the top is a wiring diagram that might help you figure out what
we're doing.

o Locate the wire to cut. To do that, locate the timer. It's in the left
front of the machine just under the top.

Locate the White-A connector. There are four connectors each with twelve
wire positions on the timer. You can see colored dots on the timer to
identify them, green, red, and black. The one towards the front doesn't
have a dot and that's the white one. Unplug that connector from the
timer. There are two plastic snap levers that hold it on each end.

The wires that go into this connector are labled A1, A2, A3, etc. They
aren't color coded. We are interested in the A1 wires. There are two of
them and they both go into the first position on the connector. We need
to cut one of them. Unfortunately, it's not obvious which one. They are
both labled A1. The one we want goes to the first position on the
connector on the water level pressure switch with the red dot. The last
position on the pressure switch connector doesn't have a wire in it. The
other end is the first postion.

The way that I determined which A1 wire to cut was to pull on both wires
and see which one pulled from the first position on the connector of the
pressure switch with the red dot. You should be able to pull the correct
wire from both directions to make sure you have the right one. The wrong
one won't pull very much because it goes farther in the wiring harness.
You might want to cut the wire tie that holds the wiring harness to the
side of the washer to loosen it up. You'll want to put another one on
when you're done, of course. Once you determine which wire to cut, you're
home free. This is the hardest part of the project.

o Cut the wire. I cut it about two to three inches from the White-A
connector next to the timer. You need enough wire left to use a splice
connector. I used 3M Quick Connects that I picked up at Walmart. These
are designed to tap onto a wire and connect another one to it. But I used
these for all my connections. They are for 18 gauge to 14 gauge wire.
The Danby uses about 18 gauge wire.

o Mount a single post, double throw switch. You might have to look around
a little for this. You want a good quality switch. I think this part of
the wiring runs at 220-240 volts. It's not a lot of amperage, but you
want a good part. A single post, double throw switch has three connectors
and switches the middle one between the two end connectors. One position
connects the middle connector to one end and the other position connects
the middle connector to the other end. I found a toggle switch that fit
into a 7/16 inch hole. This seemed to fit pretty well into the left
shipping rod hole in back. So that's where I mounted it.

o Make the connections. I used 16 gauge stranded wire. I used white
because the rest of the wiring in the Danby is white.

Connect the short side of the cut wire from White-A1 (the one that goes to
the timer connector) to the center connector on the switch.

Connect the other side of the cut wire to the upper connector on the
switch. This will cause normal water level when the switch is in the down
position.

Connect a tap (without cutting the wire) from the White-A2 wire (just next
to the White-A1 wire that we cut on the white timer connector) to the
lower connector on the switch. These 3M Quick Connects are made for this.
They work quite well. This will cause the higher water level when the
switch is in the up position.

o Install wire ties and clean up.

That's it. Water plus is up, normal is down. If you didn't want to put
in the switch, you could just connect the short wire from White-A1 to a
tap on White-A2 and you would have water plus all the time. But I put in
the switch. Good luck.

Here's a picture of the timer.

Here's a picture of the pressure switch.

Here's a picture of my switch.

Here's a picture of my completed wiring. You can see the three 3M Quick Connects that I used.

Oh, and make sure that you unplug the machine before you try this, in case I need to mention it. :-)

Steve

Steve you are the man! Thanks for taking the time to help me. I plan on rigging it for "water plus" at all times -- no switch. The more water the better. So that at least cuts out some of it. And I'm going to pass the instructions on to an electrician friend -- who could probably do this better than I could.

Mistervain, I'm not sure I'd do that. If you're going to have an electrician do it, I'm sure he (or she) won't be put off by wiring a switch. I would go ahead and put in the switch after a suitable period of breakin. You will probably want to make sure you don't have a lemon, although we don't seem to have much trouble with them. Even if you decide to always use the water plus, if you put in the switch, you'll be able to have it both ways. Just my opinion.

Steve

Cool I will keep that in mind .... are there any wiring diagrams I would need besides the instructions? My email is in my profile.

Patrick (mistervain)

Cool! You've almost written the whole article there. All you need now is a lead-in line such as "Modern high-efficiency washers are great but there are occasionally times when you need to wash or rinse with more water...."

One nitpicky point though: it's not "single *post* double throw," it's "single *pole* double throw." Electricians and electronics techs will notice that one.

A quick google shows you're right. It's been many years since the class where I learned that. Mr. Tjaden would be dissappointed. :-)

Steve

Steve was the water level higher on the perm press cycle even before you made the adjustments? And again thanks to both you & Jeff for sending the wiring diagrams. I should be getting this done over the next few days!

I believe this modification doesn't change the water levels in the permanent press cycle, but Jeff would know better than I. I haven't really used the permanent press cycle much and Jeff has had a lot more experience with the water levels in the various cycles. I'll find out eventually, though.

Steve

...and one of those times when "more water" is good, is if you're sick and your tummy decides to misbehave.

I'm taking the day off from work today, and using "more water." Bleh. This is one of those occasions when the 200-degree wash cycle would also be a good thing, but bleach will have to suffice.

The water plus button does not change the water level in the permanent press cycle. “K” on the dial, which is one of the rinses in the permanent press cycle, has the highest water level (see my earlier Post# 96449-12/1/2005-19:00 |||). For the picture of this water level see Post# 96139-11/29/2005-15:57 |||.

Jeff

If thats the case I could let it just fill up on K, then move it back to A,B,C or whichever to continue the rest of the cycle. I hope the "Energy Star" a.h.'s didn't mess with the higher water levels on the PP cycle on the newer Danby models.

"The way to prevent a sink/faucet hose from dripping where it shouldn't, is simply to have it drop down a bit before it goes back up to exit the sink. Think of a "u" shape, where one end of the "u" is into the faucet, and the other end is curving up before exiting the sink."

That's fine if one is coupling onto the faucet, and in tht case it wouldn't matter is the connection DID drip. I think what as meant here was that a quick connct be put on to the pipes UNDER the sink so as to free up the faucet while the machine is in use, Then dripping would be a problem.




"The other thing is, I don't know that there are any FLs that are designed to be wheeled around on casters like portables; the spin cycle vibration would tend to make them scoot around on the floor. In fact, if you're using temporary connections, watch out for the scoot factor; you definitely don't want the washer to pull its water connections loose."

One can make one of the casters a locking or non-swiveling caster. My KM portable is set up so that one of the casters doesn't swivel, and this holds the washer in place while spinning. The drawback is that machine only rlls easily in 2 directions. Making one of the casters a locking instead of a non-swiveling caster would solve this problem.

Thanks for the obligatory underwear shot.. LOL.

If all else fails, just as with a high-efficiency low-water commodes (that's "French" for toilet, ROLF), you may simply have to run it through two cycles to get the desired results.... CLEAN.

REALLY gross smokey, stinky clothing from a visit to a bar is nowhere near as fresh as I like it to be out of the F/L-er. Must wash twice, or use T/L-er.

Re. the "energy star a.h's", keep in mind that Energy Star **is** a market-based program. No one is being forced to make appliances to energy star specifications. It's just a standard that people can use to make their own choices in the free market. Manufacturers ar