Giver-awayer says both run. Washer has a tub leak (apparently minor enough to still use the machine), doesn't stop spinning when lid is opened, and sometimes doesn't spin very well on low speed. Dryer squeals, assume bad bearings or drum glides.

Washer front is ajar from her husband having a look for the leak.

Opinions as to whether they're worth saving/fixing?

No TRASH that crap. My .02 cents.

Steve

NOOOOO!!!!

Trash

EEEEEEEK! POS!!!!

Awwww, not even for fun? For free? (other than a bit of gas to fetch them)

Hey, I paid $135 for a 5- to 6 year-old Calypso which seems to be doing OK (uhhh, after replacing the motor controller board, LOL).

Rebuilt the free Neppy dryer (which came from the same area).

Seems I do better with "modern" stuff than vintage. The 906 & WO-65 may be lost causes. :-(

Junk! Junk! Junk! Plastic! Plastic! Plastic! I say get rid of that plastic GE crap!

The 906 & WO-65 may be lost causes.

That means it's time for a fix-in! ;-)

I'm sure Ace would have suitable replacements for those pump cover screws since it will probably come to drilling them out. What about the center seal in the 'Tag? I'm trying to remember what you said was leaking on it at the wash-in last October...

Bought a "never used" GE Profile in 2000 from a used washer rebuilder(a Whirlpool/Kenmore specialist).When it began having problems,I found out that the model and serial numbers had been removed because the machine had been assembled from three damaged machines and he(or someome) filed a damage claim with GE. GE consumer relations told me to DESTROY THE MACHINE and DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REPAIR IT because of this saying it should not have been fradulently resold and there would've been no way to get the correct parts. I did so and replaced it(with something non-GE of course).

If there are problems with spinning and a "small" leak, it's probably coming from the main seal and the machine isn't worth the two hours of back-breaking work to get the tub out and IF the tranny seal is still intact, you'll only have to replace the tub seal. Out of the many, many machines I've picked up, worked on and resold, I can remember only a scant handful of these plastic GE's.

That's what I conjectured about the slow spin. RJ was making arrangements to fetch them in the next couple days, I told him to tell her nada. The dryer might be doable, ala the Neppy, but she may not want to split the pair, and the Neppy is already done and on the premises.

Run away fast! GE machines are absolute junk!

However, I have to wonder ... how is changing the tub seal on a GE more difficult than pulling the tub to replace the bearing and seals on a Maytag 906?

The GEs are coming. The giver-awayer had already advised to the Freecycle list that they're taken, and we didn't want to renege on the "deal."

I'm not "with it" on newer appliances, but GE's are junk now? That washer and dryer pair aren't very old are they? They look just like the ones I was looking at at Home Depot the other day. It sucks that they both have issues if they aren't that old. I remember tho, when my parents had a house built in the late 70's they got a new Speed Queen pair and the washer was pure junk. It broke down twice in like the first year.....

Whelp, it's true, they're kinda icky, LOL. Not specifically because of being Plastic GE, but because they're .... kinda icky/dirty.

The dryer door liner is worn down to bare metal on one side. Don't figure how that happened. Musta been rode pretty hard. Haven't yet run it to check the squeal.

The washer is dirty (basket, softener cup, agitator). There's a ring of hard water deposits around the top of the basket (scrapes off with a fingernail). Appears somebody sat on the lid and smushed it from convex to concave, but I popped it back (or is it supposed to be *flat*?). The agitator is kinda loose (the entire base, not just the auger). It does run and the lid switch seems OK so I don't know what she meant about spin not stopping when the lid is opened. Lack of spin on slow speed appears to be a belt problem, loose or worn (or maybe slick from the water leak or an oil leak??). The motor runs but not enough pull to get it spinning on low speed. It reaches full speed OK on high.

Interesting ... the lid switch stops the main drive motor during spin but the pump motor keeps running.

Curious if they are easy fixes

Glenn bite your tongue re 906 & WO65 lost causes!!

GE used a die-cast aluminum hub and tub nut which corrode and make it all but a lost cause to remove in many cases. (the hard water ring in the basket doesn't sound good for what's coming under that agitator) The agitator hub is a plastic "cup" bolted to the low-post agitator shaft and the agitator is snapped down onto that cup. You should be able to yank on the agitator base and remove it fairly easily. (Famous last words!) then you'll be able to see how it's assembled underneath. You should be able to see evidence of the water leak under the tub - follow the "trail" back to it's origin. If there's any evidence of oil spraying around under the tub, run screaming away from this washer, it's done for.

The difference in the GE construction and Maytag's is that Maytag utilized an air bubble under the agitator to keep water away from the agitator shaft and seals. GE doesn't do this so those parts are more prone to corrosion. Planned obsolecence.

I took a spin through Sears Parts tonight, looked at the diagrams. Tub seal/bearing, basket hub/nut, agitator cup. Does look to be design/construction of questionable quality. Some of the parts aren't expensive (bearing, seals, nut), some are (tranny, clutch, ATC board). The giver-awayer didn't mention any oil spray and they did pull the front panel to look for the water leak. Of course, they maybe just didn't mention it. I haven't yet looked under the skirt. It may very well be headed for the Krusher. The dryer could be salvageable, but also perhaps not worth the effort. It's thermostat auto-dry. Possibly a few spare parts for the F&P DE04, possibly not!

OK, there's the perfect application for the Agi-Tamer! I've never removed one myself, but I heard they were a real b*tch to get out. But then again, some Filter-Flo agitators can be temperamental as well.

Even though they're POS machines, if you got it for free there's nothing to lose. Hopefully the brake is still good and the tub isn't spinning during agitation (which is how our '96 GE started acting up at only 2 years old); that tends to cause a leak as the water goes out the overflow tube. That reason is why some of these state either on the lid or on the agitator cap "Do not fill above top row of holes." How do the rubber suspension bands at the top of the tub assembly look, or are they gone?

Oy, I forgot to mention this in my previous post. If the dryer is squealing (a BAD metal-on-metal noise) during rotation, chances are the drum supports are gone, which is causing the drum to literally ride through the front panel. Could also be the culprit of the bare-metal problem you spotted. If that's the case, it's not worth saving at all; just Krush it and don't look back!

It's the inside panel of the dryer door that's worn bare. Maybe they were drying suits of chainmail. The drum support, dunno yet. I turned the drum by hand a bit, didn't hear anything alarming.

The washer brake seems OK. A full spin brakes quickly, if that means anything. The tub is very loose, kinda like an F&P :-) I'm thinking it probably shouldn't be *that* loose. Haven't yet connected it to water, maybe this weekend.

I remember that when we were in Sears in 2001 I found the tubs of the GE's very loose right then. Maybe there is nothing wrong with that.

I have to definetly say i would NEVER buy a ge washer ever! my parents bought one in 2002 and it has a problem with the transmission and tub. I would'nt recommend ge to anyone thats why there free there crap! we were told because of "company economizing" certain models use plastic (polymer) washtubs. The problem with them is they dont last long and they start to leak which eventually gets to the transmission which makes an unbearable noise during spin and the fate of the washer it will die! it actually costs more to repair our model specifically because its a discountinued one and the company no longer makes its parts (our model at least) so ge can lick my dogs you know what sorry but after spending 652.73 on the washer and its only 4 years old. Its typical of ge's to be sh*t pardon my french but if anyone pays a good price for a product it should'nt mess up. However not everything made is well made dont we all know that. Feel bad for the owners or who owned it. ;(

The tub/tranny/motor assembly is suspended from springs & rods, just like the F&P so it will move around quite a bit. GE added rubber bands to arrest some of the sway and back-and-forth movement, but as Austin said, they have a tendency to break.

I've seen lots of dryer doors - from all brands - that the powdercoating is worn away, alas - porcelain is no more!

The dryer is probably an easy fix. Most times,a plastic front drum support,and 4 glides is probably all that's wrong with it. About a half hour or so to fix.
When that style GE washer first came out,someone familiar with them told our technician,that if the center seal leaked,occasionally you had to replace the whole transmission,because of the shaft being undersize with regard to the seal,and a new seal alone wouldn't stop the leak.
You paid the right price for them.

kennyGF

I also had parents that bought that same series of washer. It lost its tranny before 5 years went up. Couldn't find the receipt so it went to the junker. Barely used.
The deliveryman for the (post-GE) new washer said "You're throwing this GE washer away? Isn't this GE washer NEW??? "
I advised that it was 4 and 9/10 years old and junk.
CRUSH the washer and never look back....

Or give it to the military.........

Good idea.. Maybe something to "explode" while at the wash in??

Here's ya a Transmisson For it

lol "something to explode at the wash in" let me send you ours when you hear it spin it sounds like the excorcist trying to sing! oh yeah we have a ge too by the way lol!

more fun