Hi

I have a big problem here. I own a Whirlpool dryer.
Mod: lpr3822hq1
ser: mp2767247
Type: bcmp-ele-1206012-cv12
12 amp 60 hz 120 volt

I bought this new a few years ago and never once have I had a problem with it. But the last two days it has started blow the breaker. And the plug and cord are hot and I mean hot.

The breaker is 20amp and I have never had one problem with it before tell now. The only thing on the breaker is the lights for the bathroom. But I keep them off when I am drying stuff.

The unit still heats and is not over heating. The drum turns fine. But what else would make a dryer blow the breaker?

SAhould I just buy a new one I am not sure how old this one is heck time flys and I know I bought it a few years back.

Any ideal or tips
Thanks
Troy

Before any one ask. I did check the lint screen and vent. 100% clean on both.

Edit the mod: it is a ldr3822hq1

You might have grounded heating elements. Does the breaker trip right away, or sometime during the dry cycle? Happens more with 220v dryers. Also the molded plug on the end could be overheating. I would put a 3 prong heavy duty plug. Just cut the wire below the plug and wire in a heavy duty plug. Let me know....hope this helps.

Tonight it did it about 25 min after I turned it on.

I pick up a plug in the next few days and give that a shot. Just hope it is something cheap to fix. After looking up the parts for this dryer I found there not cheap at all.

My old dryer (a 97 Kenmore dryer) over heated when the thermostat got stuck and something else melted causing the timer to go flukie and it caught fire...

I wouldn't use it until i figured out the problem

Is this a protable dryer or a full-sized 220v one converted to use 110v?

Since you have a 20a line for the appliance, you would probably do well to upgrade to a 20a rated receptacle/ outlet ("Heavy duty" or "pro-grade") this will have a horizontal slot on the left (as you look at it) as well as the standard two parallel slits (and a nearly round ground hole).

Electrical code in a residential setting allows a 15a or a 20a receptacle on a 20a line.

The above however will not solve the breaker-tripping issue.

ROTSA RUCK!

See Question #5

(Back wiring, as described further down within the link, is NOT recommended, BTW! USE THE SCREWS!)

It's a protable dryer. I take back the 20 amp it is on a 15 amp breaker. Odd thing it has been on the same breaker for as long as I have lived here. Keep thinking I bought it in 2001 at lowes.

Done some electric work in my life but I do not own this place so if it is the house wire I call the apt manager. Only thing on this breaker is the dryer and bathroom lights but that would be it.

What sucks is the price for the parts new cord about 35 bucks. element I seen going for about 54 bucks so on. Timer lets not go there at $115.00.

I am a little lets say a little chicken to plug it back in. I would try air fluff but after how hot the cord and plug was just to chicken. The plug was so hot it felt like soft candy. Aslo left a nice burn mark on my hand. lol

Only thing I could think of is a short that is pulling way to much current. Might take the back off and see how hard it is to get the element out and check it. I have fixed a halo of heat once. If it is like that then heck with it.

Also it was on auto dry like aways ran for 25 or 30 min then pop click breaker tripped. Stuff was about done too. Now I have stuff hangeing on doors shower rod you name it it is holding wet items.

Also just looked at the wall socket. It got so hot that it warped. Looks like I be buying a new one of them for this place.

Hi:

Replacing the cord and the outlet may resolve your problem- I had a similar situation some years back when badly located outlets in a rental house forced me to run a window air conditioner using a heavy-duty refrigerator extension cord. 110V cords and outlets just can't take heavy draws forever, it seems. I got in the habit of replacing the cord and outlet every two years, and I never ran that unit when I wasn't home, for safety's sake.

What happened to make me begin replacing cords and outlets was an "electrical" hot smell; when I investigated, I found that the cord was blackened at its ends, and the outlet blackened, too. There had obviously been some arcing going on. Replacement of the cord and outlet, plus cleaning the plug of the air conditioner with fine emery paper (to improve metal-to-metal contact), stopped all arcing and resolved the problem.

P.S.: When you replace the outlet, be sure the connections are by-grannies TIGHT. Loose ones are a common source of in-wall arcing and therefore fires.

Hey man, even on air fluff, do you think that you may be still having your heating element drawing energy and heating up? Because of your centrifical switch in the motor being stuck. Check this man. Just an idea.

I wouldn't leave the house with this hellion plugged just in case it is drawing power to that element although the unit is off.

Is there a way to run this thing off a 20 a line?

Even if this means adding a new circuit and outlet /receptacle/ power-point near the panel, and adding a VERY long power-cord (flex) to, or extrension cord with, the dryer.

Try an orange outdoor extension cord, or a heavy-duty air-condtioner extension cord, if you can find them with the proper gauge and rated @ 20a.


Looks like the 15a circuit-breaker was overlooking the slight overload for quite some time. I suppose as it gets older it gets less tolerant and less flexible, just like us humans. Perhaps like all of us it can't look past constant abuse after a while. *LOL*

DO NOT PLUG ANYTHING BACK INTO THAT OUTLET. IT IS SERIOUSLY DAMAGED AND COULD START A FIRE FAST.
If the plug and cord and socket are getting hot, I would imagine that the breaker is getting hot also. The contacts in the wall outlet have lost their tempering through the years of use. Replacing the wall outlet and plug on the cord (Make sure it is a heavy duty plug rated for the amperage) will probably solve the problem. If the breaker has tripped more than a couple of times, the breaker could also be fried. If that is the case, it will become fussy and trip easily so it will need to be replaced also.
I hope it is a simple fix. Happy Holidays. Tom