Bendix on E-bay

Hi Steve, good questions, I think this is an important topic for an in depth discussion.

First of all here is what I do when I first get a washer into the workshop before I even think plugging it in.

I turn it over on its side or take off its service panels.

- I inspect the interior for obvious deficiencies.

- I turn the belt, motor, pump and transmission pulleys to make sure none of them are locked up that could cause the motor to over heat. Occasionally, I find the transmission is not locked up but it is very tight. Then I like to rotate the pulley slowly by hand in order to loosen it up gently. It�s not good for it to be jarred by the motor taking right off.

- I inspect the transmission for signs of an oil leak, and determine if the transmission has lost all of its oil, if it has, there is a lot of work to be done before the first test run of this washer can take place.

- I move all visible solenoids to make sure they are free to snap and lock down. I�ve burned out solenoids in less than 10 seconds because the part they were suppose to move is jammed.

- I inspect the hoses to make sure they can hold water without dumping any on the floor or the base of the machine when I prime the pump.

- I inspect the outer tub to make sure there are no visible holes. If it�s a solid basket washer I feel the boot to see I can call feel any visible holes that would cause a large leak. I couldn�t do this on the �66 Kelvinator, because the boot is concealed by the snubber plate, and sure enough a huge tidal wave of water came pouring out during my first test run and flooded the mechanism.

- I inspect the power cord and make sure its safe, when I do start the machine the first thing I check is for electrical leakage. I have been shocked a few times by the machines and it hurts, not to mention dangerous. I usually replace the cord with a safe, three prong grounding cord after my initial tests and then test my work with a good meter.

-Finally I pour 140F hot water into the sump to lubricate the pump seal. I then look for drips at the shaft seal to make sure it�s not dripping. If it�s dripping through the cork seal at the pump housing, that�s not a big deal and I put down a rag to catch the water to not make any more rust than is already there.

Sometimes there are other things, but these become obvious when you do your initial inspection. I�m sure others might have good tips too they would like to share for pre-power inspection.

Personally I don�t see how the seller is going to be able to tell you if it �works�, because not many people in this world know what to look for in a truly working washing machine. They put their clothes in, start it and come back and get them out when and if it completes its cycle. I see it as I�m not buying a used washing machine, I�m buying an antique washing machine. In rare cases if everything appears to work for me at first, it usually doesn�t work for long. I have never had a vintage machine that didn�t need any sort restoration work. If the seller plugs it in and finds the machine dead, how do we know that one of the leads of the power cord simply didn�t fall off the timer and it�s an otherwise good �working� machine?

I�m certainly not trying to be a stinker about this, I�m just trying to share with everyone what I have learned about these wonderful machines over the past ten years and how important it is to treat them gently, like an elderly person.


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Post# 54393 1/23/2005 at 21:35 (7,030 days old) by pekedogs ()
Checkrate/Likes There's an older Bendix up for sale on e-bay. Looks like this is a boltdown model. Says for pickup only in NJ. CLICK HERE TO GO TO pekedogs's LINK on eBay

Post# 54433 , Reply# 1 1/24/2005 at 07:39 (7,029 days old) by davenp ()
Checkrate/Likes It "looks" like it's in pretty good shape... But the seller appears to "know" what he's got. Dang reserve prices!!!!!! Someone snatch him... ppllease? Dave

Post# 54436 , Reply# 2 1/24/2005 at 07:48 (7,029 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)
Checkrate/Likes These are still relatively common machines, hopefully the reserve is only a few cents more than that opening bid price or the seller might be able to keep their treasure!

Post# 54439 , Reply# 3 1/24/2005 at 07:57 (7,029 days old) by Gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)
Checkrate/Likes *Get Real----------* Wants bidding to open at $100.00 but----"not certain if it works"!!!!! Since the area surrounding the machine is such a mess one could conclude dragging it over to an outlet should not be an obstacle. I would make damn sure the thing worked before someone paid over $100.00 and drove who knows how far, and at how much expense, to fetch it!!!!!!

Post# 54445 , Reply# 4 1/24/2005 at 08:45 (7,029 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)
Checkrate/Likes *THIS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT* Ummm guys, just a friendly reminder here from someone who has worked on 70 or more of these vintage machines. Please, please, PLEASE remember this. If the seller drags an antique washing machine (that has not been run in probably 30 or more years) over to an outlet and starts it up to find out if it "works" he most likely will destroy the pump shaft seal, possibly harming other parts too. Then he or she will tell you, yes it "works", because they see the wash cylinder turning. When you get it you will find that indeed the motor starts and turns the cylinder, then water pours out onto the floor and the timer does not increment. Out of sheer curiosity, what is everyone�s definition of "works"?

Post# 54452 , Reply# 5 1/24/2005 at 09:28 (7,029 days old) by PeterH770 (Marietta, GA)
Checkrate/Likes "Works" to me is 100% completely seaworthy. Anything less is broken and in need of some very rare parts...

Post# 54454 , Reply# 6 1/24/2005 at 09:35 (7,029 days old) by Gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)
Checkrate/Likes *Reply to Unimatic1140------* "Works" to me means timer advances, tub turns/spins/pump works. Water inlet valve low on list but helps. My point is I have a good bit of expierence driving LONG distances at considerable expense to retrieve some of these machines, and I don't find it unreasonable to have some idea of what I am going spend the time and money for. When a seller on E-Bay opens a bid at $100.00 I don't think finding out what works and what doesn't is an unreasonable request. That is why I sent this seller a question asking them nicely to plug it in and check it out. Oh yeah, I also suggested they add a gallon of water to prime the pump before doing so. Please elaborate on what can be done to prevent the damage you have described as I would not purposely want to create a situation that would damage the machine.

Post# 54464 , Reply# 7 1/24/2005 at 10:23 (7,029 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)
Checkrate/Likes *Great Topic!* Hi Steve, good questions, I think this is an important topic for an in depth discussion. First of all here is what I do when I first get a washer into the workshop before I even think plugging it in. I turn it over on its side or take off its service panels. - I inspect the interior for obvious deficiencies. - I turn the belt, motor, pump and transmission pulleys to make sure none of them are locked up that could cause the motor to over heat. Occasionally, I find the transmission is not locked up but it is very tight. Then I like to rotate the pulley slowly by hand in order to loosen it up gently. It�s not good for it to be jarred by the motor taking right off. - I inspect the transmission for signs of an oil leak, and determine if the transmission has lost all of its oil, if it has, there is a lot of work to be done before the first test run of this washer can take place. - I move all visible solenoids to make sure they are free to snap and lock down. I�ve burned out solenoids in less than 10 seconds because the part they were suppose to move is jammed. - I inspect the hoses to make sure they can hold water without dumping any on the floor or the base of the machine when I prime the pump. - I inspect the outer tub to make sure there are no visible holes. If it�s a solid basket washer I feel the boot to see I can call feel any visible holes that would cause a large leak. I couldn�t do this on the �66 Kelvinator, because the boot is concealed by the snubber plate, and sure enough a huge tidal wave of water came pouring out during my first test run and flooded the mechanism. - I inspect the power cord and make sure its safe, when I do start the machine the first thing I check is for electrical leakage. I have been shocked a few times by the machines and it hurts, not to mention dangerous. I usually replace the cord with a safe, three prong grounding cord after my initial tests and then test my work with a good meter. -Finally I pour 140F hot water into the sump to lubricate the pump seal. I then look for drips at the shaft seal to make sure it�s not dripping. If it�s dripping through the cork seal at the pump housing, that�s not a big deal and I put down a rag to catch the water to not make any more rust than is already there. Sometimes there are other things, but these become obvious when you do your initial inspection. I�m sure others might have good tips too they would like to share for pre-power inspection. Personally I don�t see how the seller is going to be able to tell you if it �works�, because not many people in this world know what to look for in a truly working washing machine. They put their clothes in, start it and come back and get them out when and if it completes its cycle. I see it as I�m not buying a used washing machine, I�m buying an antique washing machine. In rare cases if everything appears to work for me at first, it usually doesn�t work for long. I have never had a vintage machine that didn�t need any sort restoration work. If the seller plugs it in and finds the machine dead, how do we know that one of the leads of the power cord simply didn�t fall off the timer and it�s an otherwise good �working� machine? I�m certainly not trying to be a stinker about this, I�m just trying to share with everyone what I have learned about these wonderful machines over the past ten years and how important it is to treat them gently, like an elderly person.

Post# 54467 , Reply# 8 1/24/2005 at 11:30 (7,029 days old) by gregm ()
Checkrate/Likes *ask the seller quest* I agree with taking the chance and NOT having the owner/seller try it whereas I think it could create more harm and it is very unlikely in any of these ebay type auctions that the "seller" is going to have the knowlege of it "working" or not, unless it is a club member or other selling. Obviously, to protect oneself before bidding, I would ask many questions about the machine and if the owner says he does not know but could try to plug it in ? I would say NO, don't plug it in, then you bid and take your chances.

Post# 54481 , Reply# 12 1/24/2005 at 14:05 (7,029 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)
Checkrate/Likes Beware buyer!!!

Post# 54510 , Reply# 13 1/24/2005 at 18:51 (7,029 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)
Checkrate/Likes *Don't Ask don't tell* Thats my policy! I agree with Robert an uninitaited can do ALOT of damadge to machine before we get our hands on it. I made the big mistake with my Westinghouse Streamliner by plugging it in DRY and just destroying a perfectly good original pump & friction wheel becuase the bearings were DRY! Also Vintage machines are Shockers! Believe me just look at my curly hair!! I got a quick 220 off Bertha Bendix when in my excitment I skipped the checks and balances and plugged it in and let her go. SO I would ADD never start a vintage machine without using jumper cables from the cabinet to ground ( a copper cold water pipe)! Jet

Post# 54468 , Reply# 9 1/24/2005 at 11:31 (7,029 days old) by westytoploader ()
Checkrate/Likes *My opinions...* My definition of "works" is that the two key parts to the machine (IMHO), the timer and motor, operate correctly; no exceptions to this. I think just because a machine "works" doesn't mean it won't need work. And Robert, I agree. If a vintage washer has sat unused for a long period of time, it should not be plugged in until it is completely gone over. I was suprised that no pump damage was done to the eBay Unimatic that Eddy bought from a dry run the seller made. When I bought the '47 Bendix, the timer was stuck (that was the reason it wouldn't come on), and fortunately by turning it gently, I was able to free it up. I also rotated the tub slowly in both directions, as well as emptied the sump (the machine had been used recently). I did not try any of the solenoids until I could get the back panels off and move them. Also, a machine SHOULD NEVER be used with the original cord!! Before I put the first ounce of water in the Bendix I promptly changed the old, worn Belden cord out with a safe 3-prong one, and replaced all of the hoses, since the originals were dry-rotted BADLY. --Austin

Post# 54476 , Reply# 10 1/24/2005 at 13:14 (7,029 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)
Checkrate/Likes Hi Austin, you are correct in changing the cord right away, it�s the safest way. While running the pump dry can destroy the pump shaft seal, it doesn't mean its going to happen 100% of the time, but there is definitely a chance of it happening. It's happened to me more than once.

Post# 54480 , Reply# 11 1/24/2005 at 14:00 (7,029 days old) by PeterH770 (Marietta, GA)
Checkrate/Likes Caveat emptor!!!