Thread Number: 10805
Hoover Gearbox 		[Down to Last]

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Post# 196507   3/11/2007 at 03:16 (6,249 days old) by brisnat81 (Brisbane Australia)        

Hi All,

I'm trying to remove the gearbox from a mid 70's vintage hoover auto.

Does anyone have any advice, whether I start from the top or the bottom to remove the washbowl?

Agitator is out, clamp on the centrepost is out, but nothing else is moving.

Thanks

Nathan




Post# 196546 , Reply# 1   3/11/2007 at 08:21 (6,248 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        

Hi Nathan

Is this a 500 series? I have done one of these but it was about ten years ago so I am pretty rusty. I assume your machine may be too. (A little washing machine joke...)
It would be hepful if you could post a photo of inside the washbowl, as far as you have disassembled it so far.

you have removed the clamp on the centrepost, if I remember right it is a flat bar secured against a flat on the centre post by two bolts?? It is likely that it is just stuck, a mixture of some corrosion and a layer of built up detergent residue. You need to free it up so that the bowl assembly turns on the centre post. First I would try is a good long soak with RP7 or WD40. Then wiggle the bowl back and forth as hard as you can to break the bowl free. If that doesn't work, then pour boiling water over the hub of the bowl to try to expand it away from the centrepost, then wiggle again. It is likely to be very stubborn but not as hard as a "tupperware transmission" Simpson. The Simpson has an aluminium hub which screws onto the short centre post, locked by an allen screw (hex screw). I can't remember if the Hoover has one but I really don't think so.
I have a vague notion that the actual inner wash bowl attaches to a hub with several screws around the inner ring, is that right? Not sure if it's a good idea to remove them and get the bowl out, or leave it attached to the hub to help loosen the hub. Sorry I'm so unsure.
What job are you doing on the Hoover? Bearings/seal? You have to take out the whole outer drum assembly as you need to get under the drum to remove/refit the bearing/seal assembly. I can't remember exactly what the reason was, but it is very clear in my mind that the whole drum had to come out, and the spring loaded drum supports underneath were no fun to refit. The 500 series has enamel steel outer bowl, bolts pass through the bowl and have individual rubber seals, good idea to replace. The 700 series on have plastic outer drum, the mounts bolt underneath so no seals are needed. Also carefully check to rubber overflow hose, large diameter in the side of the drum, as it attaches from inside the drum, to replace you need to remove the inner drum so check it while you are inside. The hose has a flared collar to attach to the drum, the collar has a groove so it sits partly inside and partly outside the drum, and a plastic ring is a tight fit inside to hold the rubber tight against the drum wall. The plastic ring will likely be invisible under a layer of accumulated slime which is why I mentioned it.

Hope this is of help, ask if you need any more though my memory is pretty dim. I have had transmissions apart too.

Chris.

Post# 196603 , Reply# 2   3/11/2007 at 14:16 (6,248 days old) by brisnat81 (Brisbane Australia)        
At the moment the doner is a 720

 Hi Chris,

The 520 that came up from Melbourne, is a little rattly and just makes various unsettling noises. I found the 720 and decided it would be a good idea to save the gearbox, and that way when I start tearing down the 520, I have a spare, should I need it.

The bar/clamp on the centrepost came off pretty easily, I think the 720 has seen an overhaul recently, as the pump, agitator spline, and gearbox hub look brand new. (There is a little rust on the agitator shaft)

There doesnt seem to be any other bolts, nuts or screws that can be seen from the top, the top of the hub has a series of little domes around the bottom, so I assume the tub is seated in those. I guess I have to assume with some lubrication and time, the whole top half of the hub should come off.

The only new parts I should need to buy, is a new bearing/seal kit, a tub to pump hose for the 520, a pump and the suspension seals.

The overflow hose from the 720 is in good shape and can be reused. The tub to pump hose on the 520, is mounted to the tub in the same way the overflow does, so whilst I'm in its depths, I'll replace that too. Its not a nice simple clamp on like the 720 has.

I'll take a pic of where I've gotten to tonight.

Thanks for your advice.

Regards

Nathan


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