Restoration to be done nexlty....I'm wondering if..!?!?

Pictures help a lot - so the more you post, the better folks here can help you.
A few things I have learned over the last years which might be useful for you.
You should replace the power cord with one which is rated for 16Amp/230V. Especially older machines (Candy was worst at this) used cords which were not quite as thick as they should have been. Be sure the ground is done right.
The timer itself almost never fails on mechanical machines, but the motor coil can burn out. You can test the timer motor with a simple Volt-Ohm meter; if you have the schematic you can also test all the contacts that way, too. My experience has been, if the timer turns smoothly and the clicking sounds "ok" then it usually is ok. One thing to watch out for, many older machines have a little cam on the timer shaft which pull a thin metal rod or piece of plastic to divert the water from wash to rinse in the detergent dispenser. If that breaks or gets stuck it can often look like the timer is broken...an easy fix.
If the timer motor is burnt out itself, these are still usually available and if you ask repair shops they often will have one. It is very hard to fix a timer which is really broken and I suggest you don't try. I've been able to get replacements for many vintage machines through firms like www.kinseher.de... here in Munich; they ship everywhere in the European Union.
Metal can be repaired, but there are three considerations.
1) If it is load bearing (spins or moves or carries lots of weight) then welding is the best solution.
2) If it is only optical, then removing all the rust and repairing with the same materials you would use for a car body works just fine.
3) If it gets wet (the drum for instance) then you need to sand beyond the rust and damage a good bit and then use a metal powder reinforced two-component epoxy designed to repair car radiators. FIAT used to sell an excellent one, but any automotive store will have one. The important thing is to be sure that it is spread out past the damage; this stuff bonds mechanically not chemically.
Water in Italy varies from wonderful to hard, harder, hardest.... Check the rubber parts and the heating element for build up. Citric acid is best here.
Good luck and keep us up-to-date!


Forum Topics & Rules Manuals & Literature	New users Click-here to sign-up

Post# 209785 5/13/2007 at 03:14 (6,190 days old) by vivalalavatrice ()
Checkrate/Likes It will seem you rather strange I'm asking this but honestly even after all these years reading such a lot about so many people out there restorating washing machine now that I'd nextly do one...I don't absolutely know what step should be the first to start by! The restoratione will concerning an old washing machine (a TLHA of the '70 circa) that looks in good order keeping, but the doubts are about these following points: - how to check to good working order of a electromechanical timer control? - if it'll be some rust inside, how to remove e preserve the coming bak again of it? - in the extremely desperate case (I wish of course it won't!) were there some holes in the metallic (I suppose painted steel)...how to repair them? These are the most important things I would check out...but if some others jump in your mind please let me know if I'm forgetting something! I know that the power supply cord had been cutted off... so I'll replace with another..would be suitable a common one? Then if some other doubts will come out during the work... I'll let you all know...and if you would please help me I'll be glade of it! GRAZIE, CIAO! Diomede

Post# 209835 , Reply# 1 5/13/2007 at 10:37 (6,190 days old) by mayken4now (Panama City, Florida)
Checkrate/Likes Diomede: If you are referring to purchasing old machines, I would have to say I just take the chance. Steve

Post# 209889 , Reply# 2 5/13/2007 at 13:35 (6,189 days old) by vivalalavatrice ()
Checkrate/Likes *Purchasing...but receiving* Well, a machine could arriving from a purchasing but you could get it either from an old house owner...or any other way... The problem for me is how to start the restoration...as well as how to check out if the work will be hard or everything will be solved with a few fixes! :-) Thanks...anyway! Diomede

Post# 210215 , Reply# 3 5/15/2007 at 16:09 (6,187 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)
Checkrate/Likes *Diomede,* Pictures help a lot - so the more you post, the better folks here can help you. A few things I have learned over the last years which might be useful for you. You should replace the power cord with one which is rated for 16Amp/230V. Especially older machines (Candy was worst at this) used cords which were not quite as thick as they should have been. Be sure the ground is done right. The timer itself almost never fails on mechanical machines, but the motor coil can burn out. You can test the timer motor with a simple Volt-Ohm meter; if you have the schematic you can also test all the contacts that way, too. My experience has been, if the timer turns smoothly and the clicking sounds "ok" then it usually is ok. One thing to watch out for, many older machines have a little cam on the timer shaft which pull a thin metal rod or piece of plastic to divert the water from wash to rinse in the detergent dispenser. If that breaks or gets stuck it can often look like the timer is broken...an easy fix. If the timer motor is burnt out itself, these are still usually available and if you ask repair shops they often will have one. It is very hard to fix a timer which is really broken and I suggest you don't try. I've been able to get replacements for many vintage machines through firms like www.kinseher.de... here in Munich; they ship everywhere in the European Union. Metal can be repaired, but there are three considerations. 1) If it is load bearing (spins or moves or carries lots of weight) then welding is the best solution. 2) If it is only optical, then removing all the rust and repairing with the same materials you would use for a car body works just fine. 3) If it gets wet (the drum for instance) then you need to sand beyond the rust and damage a good bit and then use a metal powder reinforced two-component epoxy designed to repair car radiators. FIAT used to sell an excellent one, but any automotive store will have one. The important thing is to be sure that it is spread out past the damage; this stuff bonds mechanically not chemically. Water in Italy varies from wonderful to hard, harder, hardest.... Check the rubber parts and the heating element for build up. Citric acid is best here. Good luck and keep us up-to-date!

Post# 210347 , Reply# 4 5/16/2007 at 08:19 (6,187 days old) by vivalalavatrice ()
Checkrate/Likes *Good luck and keep us up-to-date!* Of course! And thanks for the very preciuos information! As soon as I could get starting the restoration I'll tell you about every step... The machine now is not in my own, is stored in a friend's garage...as soo as he'll be ready to start...well...you all will be the first spectators of our first restoration show! GoodBYE Diomede

Post# 210383 , Reply# 5 5/16/2007 at 13:01 (6,186 days old) by gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)
Checkrate/Likes *Diomede-----* Panthera sounds like "the voice of experience" as far as restorations on the Continent are concerned. Good advice. I find that the most important things to me are the necessary tools for the job. Products that remove rust and corrosion such as "naval jelly" and "mineral spirits". Product(s) that repair rust/corrosion. Proper lubricants including penetrating lubricants to aid in removal of corroded screws bolts and other parts. A good supply of different washers and shims. Different types of hoses, such as fresh water, discharge and hose that can be cut to length for the fill or filter systems. So I am usually able to find a great assortment of the things I need and use at the automotive parts stores/or auto-body repair stores. I also like to replace old (original) metal screws for the back and cabinet,etc. with good stainless steel ones. Just so I don't have a problem in the future. I'm sure you will be just fine. You will have some very frustrating days just like the rest of us, however, you just learn to walk away, clear your mind, and try again another time. Eventually it will all get done. Best wishes! Steve

Post# 210399 , Reply# 6 5/16/2007 at 15:17 (6,186 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)
Checkrate/Likes *Thanks, Steve...* Actually, several folks over here know much more than I do about specific machines...I worked on a wide range, so my knowledge is very broad...but not too deep. Hmm, let's not go there and say we didn't. Anyhoo - you are very right, automotive shops are frequently the very best bet for "modified" or creative solutions. They are used to coping with parts which are almost but not quite right, most appliance repair shops now-a-days are more pull and replace shops than repair.