Thread Number: 1194
1950's Maytag model 641 dryer
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Post# 56062   2/5/2005 at 19:01 (7,012 days old) by rickr (.)        

rickr's profile picture
I have a couple of questions about my Maytag dryer. It has an ozone lamp and socket attached to a brace on the outside of the drum,and a ?? watt ballast bulb mounted behind the filter at the inside rear of the drum. Is the wattage forty watts,like my 56 Whirlpool? The lamp is burnt out,and I want to replace it. Also,why is the ozone bulb mounted ouside the drum?? Whats up with that?? It would be impossible for that lamp to shine on the clothing like that. I think this dryer was made in 1959.
Now for the second question. The dryer is electric,and has a short of some sort. When you touch the timer dial as the dryer is on,you can feel a slight trickle if you are barefoot. I am ok with that. However, I replaced the vent hoses on both dryers with new metal hoses today. The metal hose from the Maytag's exhaust brushed against the metal 220 volt outlet box while the dryer was running,and sparks flew!! I am NOT ok with that!!
I removed the back panel,after disconnecting the dryer.It was very clean inside,and I did not see any obvious shorts,like a bare wire,or terminal pushed against the cabinet,etc. One of the teminals from the 220 volt power cord was loose at the bakelite connector block on the rear of the dryer,and the bakelite was slightly charred from that. I tightened that,and reinstalled the back panel and tried the dryer out again. This time I pushed the metal dryer vent hose against the outlet box (with a piece of wood) sparks flew again,so I unplugged the dryer,and here I am!! (: I did notice a ground terminal on the rear of the cabinet,that is not in use. On these "oldies" does that need to be connected even with the three wire 220 volt power cord?
Obviously this dryer is NOT safe to use in this condition.
Any tips from anyone with knowledge on the old school Halo of Heat dryers will be appricated.

Thanks,
Rick





Post# 56063 , Reply# 1   2/5/2005 at 19:25 (7,012 days old) by coldspot66 (Plymouth, Mass)        

A few things come to mind. Make sure the heating elements are not grounded to the heater shroud. If a sagging piece of heater wire is touching any metal, that could explain the tingling when you touch the dial or any metal part. Also make sure the 220v outlet is ok. But if the W/P does not give you a jolt,then it prolly is fine. Is there a grounding strap attached from the center terminal (neutral) to the frame of the appliance? Also a green grounding wire could be attached to any screw on the back panel, or a grounding screw to a cold water pipe. I guess I would do that anyway. I have a Halo of Heat manual that I will check to see how the cabinet should be grounded.

Post# 56064 , Reply# 2   2/5/2005 at 19:33 (7,012 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        

gansky1's profile picture
Hi Chris - You just need a regular 40 watt appliance bulb for that dryer. The ozone bulb emits a "gas" (?) that supposedly sanitized clothes, as long as the dryer can "pull" it into the air going into the drum, it makes no difference where the bulb is. I've seen others mounted outside the drum - I think Speed Queen did this for a while on very early 60's machines too.

What do your buttons on the panel read? You might have the first of the electronic control models.

You might want to remove the cabinet and check the heating element string in front of the drum. If it's touching the galvanized metal shroud, you'll get a tingle - actually, more like a deadly shock at 220v! My 906 had a warped coil touching the heater shroud and was running 220v on the cabinet. Check that problem and then when you've resolved what is wrong, this dryer should be grounded at all times to a cold water line or other suitable ground, not only for safety but the electronic control system needs to be grounded as well.


Post# 56067 , Reply# 3   2/5/2005 at 20:12 (7,012 days old) by kenmore1978 ()        
Grounding

I'm assuming you're using the original 3 wire cord, so after doing all the things suggested already, there should be a connection between the green grounding lug and the white terminal of the power cord.

Post# 56070 , Reply# 4   2/5/2005 at 20:25 (7,012 days old) by rickr (.)        

rickr's profile picture
Thanks Coldspot66 and Greg,
I will get a forty watt bulb for the dryer drum.i understand how it was design to work now.
The buttons on the dryer controls read: "Air Fluff"---"Regular Drying"---"Wash N Wear" On the control dial it reads: "Drying Time" Twice. And the numbers go to 100 on the dial.
How do I get to the heating element to inspect it? I understand I have to remove the cabinet,however what is involved with doing that? I see the three screws on either side at the bottom of the cabinet. It the top to be removed also? Or the front? If so how are those removed? (Please) (:
I added a better view of the dryer.
Thanks,
Rick


Post# 56071 , Reply# 5   2/5/2005 at 20:29 (7,012 days old) by rickr (.)        
Picture toooooo Big!!

rickr's profile picture
Sorry about that. I am not so good adding pictures @#$&%
Rick


Post# 56075 , Reply# 6   2/5/2005 at 20:57 (7,012 days old) by coldspot66 (Plymouth, Mass)        

Heaters are in the front mounted to the front of the cabinet. You can raise the top by removing 2 screws on the back rail that attach the top to the cabinet, pull the top forward to release it from whatever fasteners that hold the top to the cabinet, then remove all screws around that base of the cabinet; left, right and front.Then pull the cabinet away from the base. Open the door and remove the 4 screws that hold the heater shroud to the front of the cabinet. Disconnect the wiring to the heaters and you can lift out the round heater shroud through the top. Told ya it wasn't easy. It's funny that Maytag always made a big deal about front servicability on the washers in the 60's, but NEVER mentioned anything about the dryers. Now you know why!!!

Post# 56076 , Reply# 7   2/5/2005 at 20:59 (7,012 days old) by coldspot66 (Plymouth, Mass)        

Oops, I see there are no screws on the front of the cabinet. All the less to remove!!!!!!!!!!

Post# 56082 , Reply# 8   2/5/2005 at 21:18 (7,012 days old) by westytoploader ()        
Being shocked by appliances...

Not to stray from this dryer thread, but I'm thankful that nothing has really zapped me yet, no not even the Bendix when I dry-ran it with the Belden cord, but I'm going to have to do something about my 1947 Hamilton Beach model G mixer.

I was making a large batch of pancakes last weekend (about 40 "silver-dollars"), so instead of using my smaller direct-drive mixers I decided to use the HB which has plenty of power for the job. Upon touching the worn part on the base (paint has come off in a few places) with the back of my hand, I felt a "tingling" sort of like putting salt on a small cut (not pleasant). I knew this was a "leak" because when I touched the bowl adjustment lever I didn't feel anything. I touched the silver ring on the attachment port and got the same buzz, only this time a little bit stronger. I decided that it probably wasn't safe to use this mixer for finishing the batter up, so I broke out the "styled" avocado GE hand mixer, and even though it wasn't as powerful as the HB it still worked well. So now I have to address this problem...I think a new cord and coat of paint should help reduce the "conductivity" of the housing and base, since bare metal is indeed exposed. Can body shops be used for mixers?? ;-)


Post# 56101 , Reply# 9   2/6/2005 at 02:49 (7,011 days old) by kenmore1978 ()        
current leakage

It would probably be better to find out why there is leakage than try and cover it up with paint. If for some reason you can't find the point where some wire is touching the housing, you can replace the cord with one that has a polarized plug so that the body of the mixer would always be on the "neutral" side of the line. If you look at the current cord where it connects to the switch insdie the mixer, you'll probably see that it's already wired correctly in that if it's a round cord with two wires in it, the black wire will go to the switch. If it's a cord that looks like lamp cord, the wire that does NOT have a ridge or ridges molded into it will go to the switch. BUT, still, the cords will have plugs that can be inserted either way, which means the switch could be on the neutral side of the line depending on how it's plugged. I think you can buy a polarized replacement plug. Wire it so that the WIDE blade is connected to either the white wire in round cords, or the UNRIDGED wire in lampcord style cords.

Guys, double-check me on the correctness of this.


Post# 56107 , Reply# 10   2/6/2005 at 05:03 (7,011 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture
Yes,Halo of Heat dryers are a PITA when it comes to getting to the element.It's possible that you might be able to pull the cabinet far enough out to see the element,without removing it.

Did sparks fly when the dryer wasn't running?

kennyGF


Post# 56111 , Reply# 11   2/6/2005 at 07:30 (7,011 days old) by coldspot ()        

HI

I have replaced a element on my maytag de606 befor. Let me tell you its no fun. After you remove all the screws frome the back and sides of the dryer. Dont try to move the cabint right away if it has a door switch unpluge the wires that go to it. Found out the hard way on mine.

Also on the element there will be white ceramic insulators about every 3" that the element goes thourgh. Make sure this are not cracked. It may be best to replace them I payed about $6.98 for all of them. Also the element is only about $29.00.

One more thing make sure all buttons are fasten on items before drying them. Also check for loss items like change. The element is right on the front so items like these can fall into it and bam there goes $29.00 down the drain.





Post# 56112 , Reply# 12   2/6/2005 at 07:32 (7,011 days old) by coldspot ()        

Also the element might need to be unpluge also to remove the cabinet.

Post# 56128 , Reply# 13   2/6/2005 at 12:14 (7,011 days old) by rickr (.)        
OL' Sparky

rickr's profile picture
Thanks for the tips guys! I tried the dryer this morning,on "Air Fluff" setting and it still sparked like crazy. I know the power could still feed back through a grounded element even if it is not powered up,so that doesn't really prove anything. Don't have a volt meter at home,however they have one at work I could borrow. I will tear the dryer down and take a peek anyway. I won't trust it until I can take a look at that element now anyway.
Thank's
Rick


Post# 56130 , Reply# 14   2/6/2005 at 13:05 (7,011 days old) by rickr (.)        
Found the Problem!!

rickr's profile picture
Hey Guys! Just found the problem! An old fashioned baby diaper pin wedged in the element coil,and welded to the shroud! Talk about a direct short.... I carefully pried the pin loose from the shroud,and then "unwound" it from the heating element coil. Next took the heating assembly out to the garage and gave it a good cleaning with the shop vac. Now to put it back together...
Rick


Post# 56133 , Reply# 15   2/6/2005 at 13:56 (7,011 days old) by rickr (.)        
No more

rickr's profile picture
Took the shop vac down the basement and cleaned lots of lint from areas covered by the element shroud,and not accessable when the element assembly is in place. Then reassembled the dryer and tried it out. Pushed the metal vent pipe with a piece of wood until it touched the metal 220 volt outlet box and NO SPARKS!!! YAY!!! I will add the ground wire before pushing the dryer back against the coal bin,and we will be in business!!
Thanks again for all your help guys. I will dry a load in the dryer later today,and will let you know how it does.
Rick


Post# 56135 , Reply# 16   2/6/2005 at 14:03 (7,011 days old) by fixerman ()        

I have found the reason things get in the element is because there is suppposed to be a felt seal glued to the front of the drum opening. Soometimes this seal disintegrates or comes loose. Make sure it is there and in good shape.

Post# 56141 , Reply# 17   2/6/2005 at 15:06 (7,011 days old) by retromom ()        
A what?

Rick:

Bet you were "shocked" to find that in there ;-)

Glad you got it fixed. It's a really nice dryer.

Venus


Post# 56142 , Reply# 18   2/6/2005 at 15:18 (7,011 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture
Another classic saved! Great job!

kennyGF


Post# 56143 , Reply# 19   2/6/2005 at 15:20 (7,011 days old) by rickr (.)        
The Shock of it ALL!

rickr's profile picture
Yes Venus,it was a "shocking" experiance"! How long do you think that diaper pin was in there? I mean REALLY! Women have been using disposables for how many decades?? That poor woman that owned this dryer had prolly gotten shocked every washday Monday since the Kennedy administration,or there abouts. LOL!

Rick


Post# 56144 , Reply# 20   2/6/2005 at 15:21 (7,011 days old) by rickr (.)        

rickr's profile picture
Thanks Kenny! (:

Post# 56164 , Reply# 21   2/6/2005 at 19:59 (7,011 days old) by rickr (.)        
Dryer works A-ok!

rickr's profile picture
I just dried a set of bed sheets with this Maytag. Worked just great. I even got the ozone bulb and drum lights working. I did not see any evidence of a felt ring as a seal,or gasket at all. Does anyone know if a felt ring was used on a Halo of Heat dryer this old,(1950's)or was that something they added in the 1960's or 1970's?? I do notice a gap appx 1/4 wide between the drum,and heater shroud. If a sealing ring (other than the rubber door seal,which is in place) should be there,I want to install one,if I have to purchase,or fabricate it.

Thank's
Rick


Post# 56176 , Reply# 22   2/6/2005 at 22:03 (7,011 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        
mystery appliances

bpetersxx's profile picture
whats the turquoise machine by the water heater

Post# 56177 , Reply# 23   2/6/2005 at 22:12 (7,011 days old) by fixerman ()        

When I was rebuilding the old Maytags, I found that on old ones, the seal was not there. I didn't know weather they didn't have them and Maytag added the seal on later models. I used to add the seal even if there wasn't one on it in the first place. The seal is Part no 311534 (double check me on this number) It is about 3/4 inch wide and fits around the front opening of the drum. I used to fabricate them if I didn't have one on hand. I simply used 5/8 or 3/4 inch felt weather strip and fitted it to the front drum and glued and stapled the overlapped ends together then glued it on with 3M brand 847 glue designed for this purpose.

Post# 56198 , Reply# 24   2/7/2005 at 03:45 (7,010 days old) by kenmore1978 ()        
shocking

So let us know the resolution of the "shocking" HB mixer.

Post# 56237 , Reply# 25   2/7/2005 at 10:07 (7,010 days old) by rickr (.)        
whats on the other side of the water heater?

rickr's profile picture
1965 Kenmore 800 set,and half of a 1964 Filter-Flo.
Rick


Post# 56241 , Reply# 26   2/7/2005 at 10:35 (7,010 days old) by retromom ()        
A perfect pair

Wow Rick, that is a really nice looking set. I guess I'm just a sucker for lighted controls :-)

Venus


Post# 56243 , Reply# 27   2/7/2005 at 10:53 (7,010 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Please do make sure the dryer is properly grounded, hopefully the dryer was properly grounded at the pervious owners home so they never knew there was an electrical leakage.

Rick those pictures are beautiful and they are perfect viewing size. I added a new routine in the code recently that if an uploaded picture is too big, the server will automatically resize the picture to 1000x750, very conveinient to view in 1024x768. So no one has to worry about having to resize their pictures anymore.


Post# 56252 , Reply# 28   2/7/2005 at 11:47 (7,010 days old) by rickr (.)        
Dryer seal

rickr's profile picture
Thanks Fixerman, I will check with my appliance parts people to see if they can get me that part number for the seal. If n/a I will fabricate one,per your instructions. Too bad the dryer has to come back apart,but it will be faster this time! LOL
Rick


Post# 56253 , Reply# 29   2/7/2005 at 11:56 (7,010 days old) by rickr (.)        
Dryer grounding

rickr's profile picture
Hi Robert, I did ground the dryer when I was finished. This was a scary situation! I had bought the dryer about a year ago for $100.00 at a used appliance store.I had nver used it as I only had one dryer vent until Saturday when I installed another vent.The appliances store had checked it out,serviced it,and even cleaned the lint out of it,so I figured all was ok. I have learned it is best to check these vintage appliances yourself, and ground them also.

Thanks,
Rick


Post# 56256 , Reply# 30   2/7/2005 at 12:33 (7,010 days old) by coldspot66 (Plymouth, Mass)        

Rick,

I have one of those 311534 seals that I prolly will never use. If you can't get it froma aprts dealer, let me know. My email is in my profile.

John


Post# 56276 , Reply# 31   2/7/2005 at 14:45 (7,010 days old) by partscounterman (Cortez, Colorado)        
Felt seal

That felt seal is only for use on the GAS halo of heat dryer. The ELECTRIC model does not use the felt seal

Post# 56300 , Reply# 32   2/7/2005 at 15:56 (7,010 days old) by fixerman ()        
Felt Seal

I just looked up a DE606 and it does show the seal. As I said earlier, the older ones may not have had them. The DE641 should have the same drum opening so it should fit. My thinking is that the seal may have been put on later models to prevent objects from getting to the element and causing problems.

Post# 56301 , Reply# 33   2/7/2005 at 16:01 (7,010 days old) by fixerman ()        
Felt seal

Partscounterman, You may be thinking of the felt seal that goes around the outer ring of the element housing. It is correct that the electric dryers don't use them. The 311534 goes around the front of the drum opening.

Post# 56323 , Reply# 34   2/7/2005 at 17:40 (7,010 days old) by partscounterman (Cortez, Colorado)        

Ooops-Your right

Post# 56330 , Reply# 35   2/7/2005 at 18:12 (7,010 days old) by rickr (.)        
So the jury is in...

rickr's profile picture
Looks like I have a Sunday afternoon job to do.... LOL!!
I will call my appliance parts source tomorrow and see if they have a felt seal for the dryer. Might as well get the door seal too I guess. It was a little "crunchy" around the edges. May as well fix up the old Halo of Heat to it's "original splendor". Now I want a Maytag washer to match it!! (and I was saving that space for a Frigidare!!!) (:
Thanks for all your input guys!! This club is a GREAT place to be!!
Rick


Post# 57056 , Reply# 36   2/12/2005 at 15:37 (7,005 days old) by rickr (.)        
Dryer job all done....

rickr's profile picture
Well I got the felt seals and special heat proof cement at the appliance parts store this morning. The repair people told me to install the small (port) felt seal,and include the large(drum) felt seal also,even though my dryer is not the gas model. They said that they always added the extra seal whenever they had a Halo of Heat dryer down that far. So I took their advise and it is now back together and works fine.
Cost $44.27 Large drum seal:$27.00/Port seal:$10.98/Glue pack:$3.78
The rubber port to door seal was not in stock and had to be ordered. I think I can install that part without much disassembly. I did not ask the $$$ on the rubber door seal. I guess it will be a surprise!! LOL
I am really impressed by how quiet this dryer is. It is much quieter than my 1965 Kenmore 800,and the Kenmore has been rebuilt with:new rollers,motor,belt,all felt seals,etc,etc....
The Kenmore seems "tinny" in comparison to this 59 Maytag. It was evident while both were in use at the same time for the first time.(last night) I guess they started "cheating" on quality even in the 1960's. The 1960's stuff is still "megatons" better that what is manufactured today though.
Thanks to all once again for all your advice and help!!

Rick







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