Thread Number: 12009
Miele W423 Deluxe Timer failed |
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Post# 212738 , Reply# 1   5/28/2007 at 11:02 (6,175 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)   |   | |
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Don't open it. There are a couple of possibilities here. Not all of them are "the end". Maybe someone who knows that machine better than I do can help you...but if you post a few pictures of the timer it might help. (Some Miele's have an extra solenoid which pushes the advance gear train in and out of contact...and that part is not so horrid to replace.) |
Post# 212754 , Reply# 2   5/28/2007 at 12:35 (6,175 days old) by askomiele (Belgium Ghent)   |   | |
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Taking pictures... It just a bunch of wires... but I found a piece of paper sitting above the timer... I scanned it maybe now you now something... oh and there was this number 95625 front of the page... |
Post# 212766 , Reply# 3   5/28/2007 at 13:09 (6,175 days old) by askomiele (Belgium Ghent)   |   | |
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the back of the page |
Post# 212809 , Reply# 5   5/28/2007 at 17:12 (6,175 days old) by askomiele (Belgium Ghent)   |   | |
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Well it washes well,reverses , heats up, spins and drains, but it only not advances... Don't know what to do about it... |
Post# 214786 , Reply# 6   6/7/2007 at 08:20 (6,166 days old) by askomiele (Belgium Ghent)   |   | |
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I overlooked some sites but I can't find a spare timereven a clue if the old one is easy to repair, so I'm thinking of selling it off as scrap and buying a new old one... |
Post# 214820 , Reply# 7   6/7/2007 at 13:32 (6,165 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)   |   | |
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If you can get the machine to do everything it should do by advancing the programme by hand, then it is almost certainly not the timer, but the tiny motor which drives the timer. These are not hard to get and don't cost too much. That is an excellent washer, it would be hard to find a better one today. Question: You say it reverses. By itself? If yes, than the timer motor is not broken, the problem is somewhere else. If it only reverses when you advance it, then it is almost certainly the timer motor. Or a wire has come loose to it. Or, you are running it three phase and one of the circuit breakers has tripped? Kinseher is closed today (holiday in Germany, something new and different) but if you like, I can find out tomorrow what it would cost in €. |
Post# 214853 , Reply# 9   6/7/2007 at 16:15 (6,165 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)   |   | |
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If your washer timer is built like an American timer then the problem is in the Escapement Gear Assembly. The timer motor drives the Escapment and every 60 seconds (or what ever the increment gears are set to) it will advance the timer. I seriously doubt you will be able to fix the escapement without finding another timer as a parts doner. I have fixed escapements before but it is not easy and the parts are very small. Post some pictures of the this timer if you can. |
Post# 215136 , Reply# 11   6/9/2007 at 13:44 (6,163 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)   |   | |
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Post# 215452 , Reply# 12   6/11/2007 at 14:13 (6,161 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)   |   | |
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Post# 215589 , Reply# 13   6/12/2007 at 02:23 (6,161 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)   |   | |
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Assuming it is the timer (and they suggested the same checks some of us have listed above first) then it is really tough to repair. But a replacement would cost between 214-270€ plus VAT (19% in Germany) and is something you can do yourself. The main thing to know is: these parts are available. The difference in prices is because that model had several different variations over the years, you'd need to tell them the exact T-number. Hope this helps. |
Post# 215602 , Reply# 14   6/12/2007 at 04:53 (6,161 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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Not all Miele washing machines, especially older models will "hold" the timer until a set temperature is reached. My W1070 heats water by time not temp. However since it is designed to run on 220V power cycles have been designed to allow heating from cold water to 200F and steps in between within the given period of time, even for "short" cycles. However should the temperature not hit the proper temp when the alloted time is gone, the timer will simply advance. Mind you the heater will still be engaged, and will remain so until the proper temp is reached. OTHO if one is using warm water for wash fills, and thus shorter heating times are required, it is possible to simply nudge the timer out of the heating range, and it will click into position for the wash cycle proper. My owner's manual states one can do this and I frequently do in order to shorten the rather long cycle times. Once one heards the "thunk" sound indicating the heater is switched off, it is all systems go. For some reason many early Miele washing machines did not have timers routed through the thermostat. Sat sitting with a Miele tech over the telephone once and tried to figure it out, but neither of us could guess why. All we kept coming back to was with two 1500 watt heating legs, there wasn't much of a chance even ice cold water wouldn't reach the highest temps within a certian period of time. L. |
Post# 215630 , Reply# 15   6/12/2007 at 09:51 (6,161 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)   |   | |
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in their very early machines used a system which Siemens and Candy also have used: You only need to know that the water has reached a certain temperature in order to "guestimate" the point in time when it will reach the higher temperatures. The curve is fairly consistent (that is not the same as saying the slope of M=1) and so the timer need only "pause" once. Saves on all sorts of parts and costs and increases reliability. Another thing which Miele did well into the 1980's was to provide "time outs" for automatic functions. The timer allocated so and so many minutes time for the drum to fill. If it filled in less time, the timer advanced. If it had not filled in the allocated time, the timer advanced and the heating was cancelled unless the water level had at least reached the level to trigger that safety switch. Similar mechanisms for timing out other functions. But I have no list of when which function was implemented on which model - and since they tend to use the same model number across many many changes - it is not so easy. I still plead for pictures! I wanna watch! |
Post# 215657 , Reply# 17   6/12/2007 at 15:08 (6,160 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)   |   | |
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Miele was very cautious about introducing electronics - my 1979 Miele dishwasher used electronic "sensor" pads for selecting the programme, but otherwise everything was mechanical. Interestingly enough,the timer only controlled relais which then powered the 3-phase heater and the motors. Made it possible to run a thin ribbon cable down to the "Motorenraum". And saved quite of bit on copper and meeting the much more rigid specifications for running real three phase through the whole machinery. I'd love to see those pictures -especially anything relating to the timer advance functions. There were two, no? One rapid advance in case of off-balance or other time-out and one for resuming normal advance once the temperature had been reached. Many German machines built after re-unification (early 1990s) also cut the heating element down to 10 Amps, since the GDR eletrical circuits often couldn't handle 16 amps. Philips and AEG which often had two heating elements in their units, were in a position to exploit this quickly. The convertible three-phase/single phase (I mean the real thing) Mieles could be converted quickly, too. Many other units had to have new elements fitted or specified when bought. Since heating element failure is a fairly common occurence here (our water is sooo hard, you wouldn't believe it) no big deal. |
Post# 215660 , Reply# 18   6/12/2007 at 15:41 (6,160 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)   |   | |
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My small 1967 Miele H-axis toploader, the Automatic 400, also holds the timer. The timer doesn't make noise during the heating phase. As soon as the temperature is achieved the timer moves on with 1.5 minute increments. Most Philips washing machines from the late 70's until Whirlpool took over had only one small heating element, they were designed to be used on 10 Amps fuses. Only the cheaper models had bigger heating elements. |
Post# 215663 , Reply# 19   6/12/2007 at 16:58 (6,160 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)   |   | |
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I was thinking of all the Philips and Bauknecht H-Axis TLs from the late 70's on through. They always had those three cut outs in the drum for one, two or even three elements. I can't imagine three, but I had one which sure made use of the two - 3300W to get going and then only the "big" one at 2000 to maintain. That extra 1300 or the 2000 could both be run alone. I always supposed the third would have been for some sort of three phase set-up or US split phase or something like that. Funny, those "cheap" machines were so much better than anything built today, regardless of price. |
Post# 216188 , Reply# 21   6/15/2007 at 06:25 (6,158 days old) by askomiele (Belgium Ghent)   |   | |
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And from above! |
Post# 216190 , Reply# 22   6/15/2007 at 06:26 (6,158 days old) by askomiele (Belgium Ghent)   |   | |
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And now the replacement |
Post# 216191 , Reply# 23   6/15/2007 at 06:31 (6,158 days old) by askomiele (Belgium Ghent)   |   | |
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At the back |
Post# 216194 , Reply# 24   6/15/2007 at 06:42 (6,158 days old) by askomiele (Belgium Ghent)   |   | |
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And this is the sound that makes my sad... the sound of a broken timer...:$ CLICK HERE TO GO TO askomiele's LINK |
Post# 216287 , Reply# 26   6/15/2007 at 14:36 (6,157 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)   |   | |
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I hope your finals went well. I'm writing mine right now - on a laptop which has no internet connection. Not that I'm paranoid or anything... I think the work to make the other timer work is enormous. You could probably do it (the schematic would help) but, gosh... The sound suggests to me that a "pawl" is not engaging to turn the gear which drives the shaft. There could be lots of reasons for that - a broken spring or a loose spring or a slipped gear which just needs to be repositioned... If I am right. Well, you know the prices, you know that MIELE still has them and you have nothing to lose. I suggest you take very careful notes of which wire goes where (several stay on the timer block itself so pay attention, don't just pull them off at random. Once you have enough wires off to be able to check, take a look inside and you will see very fast whether it can be fixed or not. If you decide to power up the motor, be sure it is completely unplugged from the timer block - otherwise there will be 230V on some of those terminals. Good luck, let us know. |
Post# 216418 , Reply# 28   6/16/2007 at 11:33 (6,156 days old) by askomiele (Belgium Ghent)   |   | |
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Lost=lots:p srry this is a side view... No srews at all 4 sides, strange? |
Post# 216436 , Reply# 29   6/16/2007 at 13:07 (6,156 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)   |   | |
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Are holding the blocks together. I haven't seen one apart in too long to be sure, but I think there are a few parts under spring pressure...so be careful opening it. Remove each of the four copper rivits one at a time. After removing one, put in a long bolt from the back and tighten it down with a nut. Once all four rivits are out, carefully hold the pc board and the back block down. Remove the four nuts and carefully lift the front off. Go down, layer by layer. I wish I remembered more about these, sorry. Anyway, working down this way should keep things together enough that you will at least know what little part that just went "sproing!" and rolled under the 400kilo wardrobe goes where. Keep taking pictures, they help. My suspicion is still a spring. Let's hope so, that would be easiest. |
Post# 216447 , Reply# 31   6/16/2007 at 14:17 (6,156 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)   |   | |
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Post# 216540 , Reply# 32   6/17/2007 at 05:18 (6,156 days old) by askomiele (Belgium Ghent)   |   | |
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Well panthera, I've tried to open it but it is impossible. The copperrings are small tubes and are impossible to remove without breaking the housing... I gonna check out my spare timer and if that doesn't work just call miele and order a new one... |