Thread Number: 1201
Plastic Hotpoint Story 		[Down to Last]

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Post# 56166   2/6/2005 at 20:10 (7,010 days old) by westytoploader ()        

Yes, I finally got to see a "plastic" Hotpoint with the FlexCare ("plastic GE" equivalent to DD Surgilator) agitator in action. I had seen the DA clone, as we had one from 1996-1998, but I always wondered what the vaned agitator looked like in action. My grandmother (dad's side) has one from '96 (one of the first), used with an 80's Westinghouse dryer. There was originally a matched set, but the Westy washer died 9 years ago. Since I was never there on laundry day, I never got to see the Hotpoint in action. (The picture below is not from my grandmother's but a BOL machine I saw on eBay)

Fast-forward to today (2/6/2005) when she called this morning, saying she was having trouble with a light as well as her washer. Luckily my dad & I were in Houston at the office, so we could help. There was also an outdoor security light by the garage that suddenly stopped working, so while my dad went over to tackle that, I went ahead and checked the washer out. The problem was simple: the "hot" side was barely trickling out and was ice cold. I've dealt with this problem before on my own machines and knew there was A LOT of sediment in the filter screens, but it was an easy fix, or so I thought. I pulled the machine out (a "lightweight" at 140 lbs. or so), started shutting the valves off...and I suddenly ran into my first problem. The "cold" valve was STUCK, having not been shut off in close to 10 years. I grabbed a can of WD-40 and plumber's pliers, and 30 seconds later I finally got it to budge. I then proceeded to take off the fill hoses from both the machine and faucet ends. There was the plastic strainer from the "hot" side, clogged beyond belief with 9 years' worth of sediment from the water heater...it's no wonder the water was slowly trickling. The "cold" side had a reasonable amount of sediment as well. I ended up putting a hole in one of the strainers from trying to pry it out with a screwdriver (like I could do with metal strainers and re-use them), and the original fill hoses needed replacement BADLY, so it's off to Home Depot. I found a pair of metal strainers and burst-resistant fill hoses and pulled the old, clogged ones out with needlenose pliers (another indispensible tool, IMHO). I couldn't believe how much sediment was on them. 10 minutes later, problem solved. I also Windexed the machine off, what a difference as it was in a garage laundry (70's home).

So, to test out the new hoses, I fired it up and stuck a screwdriver in the lidswitch. I didn't realize it was so much like my GE Portable...the suspension is literally the same. The only thing that differs from my machine is the spin brake; mine is the "clunking" version. I started filling the machine, and at the low water level, agitation started, with the typical "tub-doing-the-twist". At first I thought it was just the inner tub as the result of a weak spin brake, but then I felt the topmost part of the tub and the whole tub assembly was shaking!!! So it's the suspension that's the problem...I see now! The transmission also seemed to be "knocking" slightly...although this was typical on these machines. The water action was quite splashy; I was surprised. On "gentle" speed it was still OK, but keep in mind this was the lowest water level. Large water level on high speed was good; gentle speed, forget it. Hardly any water moved around. So I drained the water, and since this was one of the earlier models, it neutral-drained with the lid up. I spun the tub dry, and high speed spin actually looked halfway decent, although the soft suspension did make the tub move a little bit. And since this machine has had little use, the brake worked well.

I'm probably going to buy a 2-speed plastic GE or Hotpoint with this agitator later this summer to use in the shed, just for fun. I'll be sure to get pictures of what happens...

--Austin




Post# 56168 , Reply# 1   2/6/2005 at 20:17 (7,010 days old) by westytoploader ()        

Oh, and I forgot to mention, I'm going to buy it NEW...LOL...no taking chances with "exploding" mechanisms here!

Post# 56170 , Reply# 2   2/6/2005 at 20:36 (7,010 days old) by golittlesport (California)        

golittlesport's profile picture
The Hotpoints/GEs spin at 680 rpms. Some of the newer model GEs with the stainless tub spin a bit faster...I think 800. I bought a top of the line GE set about seven years ago and then gave them to my mom about five years ago when I bought a front-loading Kenmore set. Luckily no problems with this GE set. She loves them.

Post# 56293 , Reply# 3   2/7/2005 at 15:36 (7,009 days old) by david (CA)        
My old 1985 Hotpoint

 Austin-wished you could have seen my apartment I lived in 20 years ago-all the appliances were brand-new and there were Hotpoint washers and dryers in each. The 85 models had a loud clunky spinbrake that stopped the rotation quick. I really liked those machines. Too bad the plastic revolution ruined em'. I won't get started, but if anyone out in applianceville lands a 80's Hotpoint, he or she will be getting a great machine.

Post# 56309 , Reply# 4   2/7/2005 at 16:23 (7,009 days old) by kurtdixon ()        

The sediment in the hot side could have been the water heater dip tube (white chunks, it probably was) Water heaters from 1993-1997 had bad dip tubes (ours was one). The plastic falls apart and the tube either breaks apart and clogs pipes, fill valves or the tube breaks right off (like ours did). The result is hardly any hot water and white chunks in all the faucets.
As for the GE "plastic" washers. It always amazes me how cheap they managed to make those washers. Really the only REALLY horrible thing about them is the transmission/brake and the expanse of plastic. We had one at our place in California when we were there. I popped the front off and ran it. The suspension really is loose and wobbly. I'm sure they clean clothes fine and would be OK washers if the brake didn't suck so badly lol. And true, a bit noisy. But so is our DD kenmore, it knocks on high speed agitation too.

Post# 56376 , Reply# 5   2/8/2005 at 00:21 (7,009 days old) by kenmore1978 ()        
dip tubes

 So THAT'S what that white stuff was! For while it was clogging up everything, shower heads, aerators, washer hoses. And everybody was complaining about the hot water running out too soon. This was from a fairly new Montgomery Ward 40 gallon heater (I think it was actually made by Rheem). The dip tube was one of the ones that was supposed to keep the bottom of the tank clear of sediment. I turned up the temp, and that seemed to cure the lack of capacity.

Post# 56426 , Reply# 6   2/8/2005 at 10:14 (7,009 days old) by retromom ()        
dip tubes, etc.

...so is this kind of sediment build-up a possibility on a tankless water heater; or do we dodge the bullet? Seems if the water flows through, there shouldn't be any build-up except for maybe on the inside of the pipes?

Post# 56487 , Reply# 7   2/8/2005 at 20:46 (7,008 days old) by kurtdixon ()        

A tankless water heater has no dip tube and new water heaters have dip tubes and the plastic used will now last for 100 years (lol, if the heater could last that long). A company called perfection made 95% of the plastic dip tubes for all the major North American water heater makers, rheem was one of them. Perfection went cheap in 1993, made their plastic cheap. The result? In the high tempurature water, the plastic gets brittle and chips away. Eventually the dip tube is so full of holes or so weak that it falls off. The result there? The cold water coming in now mixes right at the top of the tank (where the hot is going out). You waste a tank of hot water and get 5-10 minute showers. Turning up the tank to maximum will help the symptom, but you are still wasting a lot of hot water. A dip tube is maybe 10 dollars, if you can install it yourself. 50 dollars to get a plumber to.
If you have a water heater MADE between 1993-1997, I will almost garantee you that your dip tube is failing or will fail. Most heaters tell you the year they were made on a tag on the tank. If it doesn't, the year is encoded into the model or serial number. Sudden white chunks in all faucet aerators, appliance fill valves etc points to a bad dip tube. Sediment from the tank rarely comes suddenly and usually isn't the white chunks (rub the chunks in your fingers, if it's the dip tube, it will turn powdery).
Hope that helps. There was about 2 inches left of our dip tube when we took it out, it should be the height of the heater (a few feet).

Post# 60595 , Reply# 8   3/19/2005 at 14:19 (6,970 days old) by agitatethis ()        

Hey David, or may I say, Hey neighbor! I'm right down the road from you here. Minden my brother. For those who may read this thread, David And I are less than 30 miles from each other, the way the crow flys. I do love the 80's Hotpoints, basicly a GE with Hotpoint name. GE's are built like brick poo-poo houses.

Post# 60607 , Reply# 9   3/19/2005 at 16:02 (6,969 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

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Austin,there are 4 "rubber bands" around the top part of the tub.Make sure they aren't broken(a common problem).

kennyGF

Post# 60625 , Reply# 10   3/19/2005 at 18:55 (6,969 days old) by david (CA)        
Agitatethis

 Howdy neighbor! I live in SE Bossier City and drive through Minden everyday (on I-20). I am a route salesman for automotive paint-service accounts in the Ruston Monroe Bastrop area and SE Arkansas. I have spotted some old machines here and there but don't really have the place for them. Not exactly the gems I want. Email me and lets talk. Cya-David


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