Let's Talk About Clutches

This post is a continuation of the 1956 Philco Washer thread, but concentrating on it's motor clutch issue
While most of us here have heard of a clutch, I thought it might be a good idea to describe what a clutch is for our younger members and show them what it does exactly. The dictionary describes a clutch as �a mechanism for engaging or disengaging one rotating part with or from another rotating part�
Many brands of vintage washers used a clutch of one sort or another. The one used by Philco is referred to as a �Friction Clutch�, that style was used in many brands such as Kelvinator, AMP style Maytag, Franklin, Hotpoint, General Electric to name just a few
Below is what the Philco clutch looks like assembled, it sits either on top of the motor in the 1956-1958 Agitator washers and was later changed to sit on the bottom of the motor in later Philco Automagic washers
Below is the clutch with the Clutch Drum removed. You can see the clutch base, clutch shoes and clutch pads. Keep in mind that in Steve�s clutch there is one more part that is not in my example picture, that is the Locking Key. I�ll explain that part later, but for now here is how this friction clutch works
On the outside of the clutch is the clutch drum which has a pulley mounted to it that drives spin belt which makes the wash tub spin. The Clutch drum floats over the motor shaft by using a floating bearing. The clutch base is attached directly to the motor shaft and sitting on the base are two clutch shoes. The motor turns on and starts to spin at the clutch base 1750 rpm, the base gets up to full speed in less than 1 second. Now that the clutch base is spinning at 1750rpm it also spins the clutch shoes that are attached to the clutch base. Since the shoes are spinning, centrifugal force pulls the clutch shoes outward (just like an agitator mounted fabric softener dispenser does to the softener solution). Attached to these shoes are clutch pads, these pads (made up of a soft, heat resistant material) are now pressed up tightly against the inner wall of the clutch drum. Friction between the soft clutch pad material and the steel clutch drum wall builds up and forces the clutch drum to start to slowly turn and within seconds it starts rotating faster and faster until eventually the clutch drum is rotating as fast as the motor as clutch pads are. The picture below shoes the shoes and pads with the motor off and on
There is an extra part in the 1956-1958 Philco Agitator Washers and that is called the Locking Key. This key system is used with washers that have a reversing motor (clockwise rotation for wash and counter-clockwise rotation for spin) and have no brake to stop the tub from turning during agitation. When the washer is in agitation mode the clutch base is being rotated clockwise (counter-clockwise from the view in this picture since it was take upside-down) the key locks onto the tabs on the clutch shoes and prevents centrifugal force from moving the shoes outward. This prevents the wash tub from turning during agitation. For spin the motor is reversed and now turns counter-clockwise. In this direction the key cannot grab on the tabs on the shoes and the shoes fly outward pressing the pads up against the clutch drum causing friction and spinning the tub
Now there could be a number of things wrong in Steve�s clutch, but most likely the soft clutch pads have simply worn down due to age. I had this same problem in my first Philco washer. Here is what I did to fix it
#1
I removed the motor and clutch and opened the clutch up and took off both shoes.
#2
I took a very sharp razor blade and working the blade underneath the pad I cut off the pad and sanded the shoe lightly to remove any of the last bits of glue
#3
I ordered two brand new General Electric Washer Clutch Shoes since the GE clutch shoes are similar in size.
#4
I took another sharp razor blade and very carefully worked the blade underneath the brand new pads on the GE Clutch Shoes and removed them
#5
I took the new GE pads and using JB Weld, very carefully bonded the new pads to the Philco clutch shoes. I used a clamp on each pad so the new pad would hold onto the contour of the round shoe as the JB weld was drying
#
I reassembled the clutch and the newly rebuilt clutch worked BEAUTIFULLY. I couldn�t believe the difference, what used to take almost 3 minutes to bring the wash tub up to full speed, now it took barely 60 seconds
Now my color pictures above show a 1959 Automagic style clutch meaning it did not need the Locking Key because the pads were meant to spin the clutch drum in either direction. The transmission has a spring brake inside it to keep the tub from moving during agitation
But the 1956 clutch has the locking bar so here is the challenge. You need to make sure what ever new pads you use, they are THICK enough to spin the tub properly, but THIN enough that when the shoes are locked in place by the key during agitation, the pads do not reach the side of the clutch drum. Otherwise the tub might spin during wash
Clear as mud :)?


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Post# 216039 6/14/2007 at 18:13 (6,154 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)
Checkrate/Likes This post is a continuation of the 1956 Philco Washer thread, but concentrating on it's motor clutch issue While most of us here have heard of a clutch, I thought it might be a good idea to describe what a clutch is for our younger members and show them what it does exactly. The dictionary describes a clutch as �a mechanism for engaging or disengaging one rotating part with or from another rotating part� Many brands of vintage washers used a clutch of one sort or another. The one used by Philco is referred to as a �Friction Clutch�, that style was used in many brands such as Kelvinator, AMP style Maytag, Franklin, Hotpoint, General Electric to name just a few Below is what the Philco clutch looks like assembled, it sits either on top of the motor in the 1956-1958 Agitator washers and was later changed to sit on the bottom of the motor in later Philco Automagic washers Below is the clutch with the Clutch Drum removed. You can see the clutch base, clutch shoes and clutch pads. Keep in mind that in Steve�s clutch there is one more part that is not in my example picture, that is the Locking Key. I�ll explain that part later, but for now here is how this friction clutch works On the outside of the clutch is the clutch drum which has a pulley mounted to it that drives spin belt which makes the wash tub spin. The Clutch drum floats over the motor shaft by using a floating bearing. The clutch base is attached directly to the motor shaft and sitting on the base are two clutch shoes. The motor turns on and starts to spin at the clutch base 1750 rpm, the base gets up to full speed in less than 1 second. Now that the clutch base is spinning at 1750rpm it also spins the clutch shoes that are attached to the clutch base. Since the shoes are spinning, centrifugal force pulls the clutch shoes outward (just like an agitator mounted fabric softener dispenser does to the softener solution). Attached to these shoes are clutch pads, these pads (made up of a soft, heat resistant material) are now pressed up tightly against the inner wall of the clutch drum. Friction between the soft clutch pad material and the steel clutch drum wall builds up and forces the clutch drum to start to slowly turn and within seconds it starts rotating faster and faster until eventually the clutch drum is rotating as fast as the motor as clutch pads are. The picture below shoes the shoes and pads with the motor off and on There is an extra part in the 1956-1958 Philco Agitator Washers and that is called the Locking Key. This key system is used with washers that have a reversing motor (clockwise rotation for wash and counter-clockwise rotation for spin) and have no brake to stop the tub from turning during agitation. When the washer is in agitation mode the clutch base is being rotated clockwise (counter-clockwise from the view in this picture since it was take upside-down) the key locks onto the tabs on the clutch shoes and prevents centrifugal force from moving the shoes outward. This prevents the wash tub from turning during agitation. For spin the motor is reversed and now turns counter-clockwise. In this direction the key cannot grab on the tabs on the shoes and the shoes fly outward pressing the pads up against the clutch drum causing friction and spinning the tub Now there could be a number of things wrong in Steve�s clutch, but most likely the soft clutch pads have simply worn down due to age. I had this same problem in my first Philco washer. Here is what I did to fix it #1 I removed the motor and clutch and opened the clutch up and took off both shoes. #2 I took a very sharp razor blade and working the blade underneath the pad I cut off the pad and sanded the shoe lightly to remove any of the last bits of glue #3 I ordered two brand new General Electric Washer Clutch Shoes since the GE clutch shoes are similar in size. #4 I took another sharp razor blade and very carefully worked the blade underneath the brand new pads on the GE Clutch Shoes and removed them #5 I took the new GE pads and using JB Weld, very carefully bonded the new pads to the Philco clutch shoes. I used a clamp on each pad so the new pad would hold onto the contour of the round shoe as the JB weld was drying # I reassembled the clutch and the newly rebuilt clutch worked BEAUTIFULLY. I couldn�t believe the difference, what used to take almost 3 minutes to bring the wash tub up to full speed, now it took barely 60 seconds Now my color pictures above show a 1959 Automagic style clutch meaning it did not need the Locking Key because the pads were meant to spin the clutch drum in either direction. The transmission has a spring brake inside it to keep the tub from moving during agitation But the 1956 clutch has the locking bar so here is the challenge. You need to make sure what ever new pads you use, they are THICK enough to spin the tub properly, but THIN enough that when the shoes are locked in place by the key during agitation, the pads do not reach the side of the clutch drum. Otherwise the tub might spin during wash Clear as mud :)?

Post# 216042 , Reply# 1 6/14/2007 at 18:30 (6,154 days old) by alr2903 (TN)
Checkrate/Likes *Robert Thanks for explaining that* so if you have fluid drive you would not have these springs and pads, is that correct. The fluid drive is another type of clutch am I understanding correctly? the oil between (excuse my terminology. the upper and lower impleller, would function as these springs and pads, is that right? Thanks arthur

Post# 216043 , Reply# 2 6/14/2007 at 18:43 (6,154 days old) by gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)
Checkrate/Likes So I gather there is a possibility that said GE clutch pads may be too thick? I 'll never know unless I try them My parts catalogue shows GE " Clutch&Clip" (for original style motors" Part# WH5X253 $84.56 WHOLESALE!!! So if those pads don't work out I guess I'll use them the next time I am niddah, 'cause I ain't just throwing 'em out! Or do you have an idea of something that might work better?

Post# 216044 , Reply# 3 6/14/2007 at 18:44 (6,154 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)
Checkrate/Likes *Thank you* That was incredibly enlightening. Did someone teach you this stuff or did you pick it up via books and experience? Since I've just begun this activity, and I am a GE nut, this will come in handy. Not to catastrophize, but since automobile brake and clutch pads used to be made out of asbestos, what chance is there that a lot of these vintage washer pads were made out of it as well?

Post# 216055 , Reply# 4 6/14/2007 at 19:17 (6,154 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)
Checkrate/Likes So I gather there is a possibility that said GE clutch pads may be too thick?That is exactly the dilemma here Steve, I have no idea if they will work on not, I suspect they will, but I don't know for sure. But before you go out and buy anything, please take out the motor/clutch as a unit, then disassembly the clutch and photograph it for us along the way. It might be that the pads are fine and something else is wrong. Lets take a little looksie inside that clutch and see what's going on first. but since automobile brake and clutch pads used to be made out of asbestos, what chance is there that a lot of these vintage washer pads were made out of it as well?Ken I have no idea what the pads are made out of, I've worked with clutch pads for years, but in such small doses that I'm really not worried if they are asbestos are not The fluid drive is another type of clutch am I understanding correctly? the oil between (excuse my terminology. the upper and lower impleller, would function as these springs and pads, is that right?ALR, that is correct about the fluid drive. Instead of shoes and pads there is oil and an impeller. The impeller is connected directly to the motor shaft and the spinning oil slowly starts the outer shell (clutch drum) spinning

Post# 216084 , Reply# 5 6/14/2007 at 20:27 (6,154 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)
Checkrate/Likes *That's perfect* never knew any of it and now I get it all. Thank you So in the end, is the fluid drive the preferred mode, and which machines have it? I'm just learning mechanicals too, besides pump stuff, so you're not just helping the younguns. Some of us old foggies are beginning learners, and your lesson is so clear amd flawless, I can understand it perfectly. Imagine how much we could learn if you retire early and have more time to teach us like this. This is great stuff, Robert. Thanks again. What's the next lesson?

Post# 216090 , Reply# 6 6/14/2007 at 20:40 (6,154 days old) by westyslantfront ()
Checkrate/Likes Hi Robert. My Thor needed a new clutch. Manny made pads from the material used on the back of formica and it works. He cut the material to the exact same shape as the old clutch pads Until he replaced the clutch, the washer spun but not at full speed Ross

Post# 216098 , Reply# 7 6/14/2007 at 20:48 (6,154 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)
Checkrate/Likes Thanks Mike, glad you liked my lesson Hi Ross thanks for the info. The Thor's clutch is imbedded in an oil bath so the material used for the Thor probably wouldn't work in a dry Friction Style clutch. I might work for a while, but it probably would wear quickly.

Post# 216170 , Reply# 8 6/15/2007 at 01:58 (6,153 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)
Checkrate/Likes *Robert,* Thank you. You really explained that well I have often thought it is a pity that all the useful explanations get "lost" in the older threads. How about archiving such wonderful stuff specifically This is fun!

Post# 216201 , Reply# 9 6/15/2007 at 07:37 (6,153 days old) by mayken4now (Panama City, Florida)
Checkrate/Likes Very good Mr. Teacher, Teacher I enjoyed that. Steve

Post# 216267 , Reply# 12 6/15/2007 at 13:11 (6,153 days old) by goprog ()
Checkrate/Likes Hmmm. Maybe an excessive (or incomplete) list.. Timer Transmission Water level sensor Pump Wig-wag Snubbers/suspensio Seals/Bearing Agitator Rinse Soap/bleach/conditioner dispenser Lint filters

Post# 216269 , Reply# 13 6/15/2007 at 13:20 (6,153 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)
Checkrate/Likes Good stuff Robert - thanks for the detailed photos and walk through. Everyone from a novice to an expert could appreciate your efforts Ben

Post# 216405 , Reply# 15 6/16/2007 at 09:54 (6,152 days old) by nasadowsk ()
Checkrate/Likes BTW, those of you with industrial-type jobs, McMaster-Carr sells (among everything else) 'friction matrial' for brakes/clutches. You get it in sheet form in various types. Thicknesses of 3/16 and up, only, though, in strip form, though the more pricey sheets come in 1/8th. In any case, if you've got a catalog, it's page 3380. They don't sell to private people though :( Or at least I don't think they do. Maybe they do. I dunno. Be aware: That catalog's dangerous as heck. Lots of neat stuff in there :)

Post# 216244 , Reply# 10 6/15/2007 at 12:08 (6,153 days old) by roto204 (Tucson, AZ)
Checkrate/Likes *Awesome!* Thank you for the good information and the great pics!

Post# 216260 , Reply# 11 6/15/2007 at 12:49 (6,153 days old) by rocky2 (Northwest Indiana)
Checkrate/Likes *I Love this Site* Robert, Thanks so much for the show-and-tell. As a total newbie I can't tell you how much I've learned from you and the members willing to take the time to photograph and share their progress of the repair/restoration process. I've looked at repair manuals before, but if you have no idea of how something is supposed to operate in the first place, then it can be a little difficult to understand. Many thanks to all.. I can't wait for the next lesson!

Post# 216336 , Reply# 14 6/15/2007 at 20:28 (6,153 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)
Checkrate/Likes Part# WH5X253 $84.56 WHOLESALE!!!Hey Steve, you don't need to order the whole clutch, just order the Clutch Shoes, part WH7 X 64 CLICK HERE TO GO TO unimatic1140's LINK on eBay

Post# 216434 , Reply# 16 6/16/2007 at 12:56 (6,152 days old) by gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)
Checkrate/Likes *Thanks Robert-------* I'll investigate obtaining just the pads from Fox.

Post# 216499 , Reply# 17 6/16/2007 at 19:04 (6,152 days old) by mayfan69 (Brisbane Queensland Australia)
Checkrate/Likes *What about "internal clutches"??* Hey Robert, Great explanation! I certainly learnt something new, but what about maybe explaining (at some stage) clutches that are "internal" in the gearbox itself?? Cheers Leon

Post# 217250 , Reply# 18 6/20/2007 at 23:54 (6,147 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)
Checkrate/Likes *Asbestos note* While it's true that older car brake shoes and pads used to be made out of asbestos, it's also the case that in normal operation the type of dust that they produce during braking is nowhere near as dangerous as the dust produced if the pad is sawn, ground, or machined. The reason is fairly technical, but basically the heat and friction of braking tends to produce fibers that have rounded ends and are of a size that the lungs can manage to cleanse themselves of. Fibers produced by sawing, grinding, or machining asbestos pads, on the other hand, tend to be with sharp ends and of a size that the lungs are unable to clear out. So they stay in the lungs, irritating the tissue for years, and if combined with other toxins (like cigarette smoke) can lead to cancer. This is not to say that anyone should huff brake dust, regardless of the type of material.