Thread Number: 12713
Calypso!!!!!!!!! questions and pics 		[Down to Last]

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Post# 221661   7/9/2007 at 20:38 (6,133 days old) by jaxsunst ()        

I went to get the Calypso today. When I looked at it before the lady at the shop told me that they were going to repair it and it would be $100. When I got there today the guy told me that he wasn't going to bother repairing it and was either going to part it or scrap it. He said I could have it for $20. He said that it needed a "u-joint". Also, it has no rust anywhere. Just a really big scratch that I put on it getting out of my wife's mini-van.

I got it home, and hooked it up and ran some towels on "Bulky Items" with the extended spin option. It ran perfect except during the final spin it did make a few knocking noises. So, here are my questions...

1. How much does a u-joint cost, and how difficult is it to install?
2. Will I damage it by running it as is until I get the repair done?
3. How do I defeat the lid switch?
4. How do you get the front access panel off? I assume it just pops off, but I do not want to damage it.

Here are the pics....




Post# 221664 , Reply# 1   7/9/2007 at 20:49 (6,133 days old) by jaxsunst ()        
another question

 Where is the model number on it? Or, what is the model number?

Post# 221665 , Reply# 2   7/9/2007 at 21:11 (6,133 days old) by jaxsunst ()        

Action Shot

Post# 221666 , Reply# 3   7/9/2007 at 21:14 (6,133 days old) by jaxsunst ()        
Poor DD

 He is still loved and has a home.

Post# 221667 , Reply# 4   7/9/2007 at 21:16 (6,133 days old) by jaxsunst ()        

Here is the dryer. The guy told me that if he found a dryer matching the Calypso, he would call me. He is also watching out for GM Frigidaires :-)

Post# 221672 , Reply# 5   7/9/2007 at 21:32 (6,133 days old) by andrewinorlando ()        

If the machine needs a u-joint, it also most likely needs a leveler, too. Both parts come with the necessary seals/gaskets. Not sure of the pricing, but figure in the $200 area for both. You will also need a spanning wrench to get the tub bolt out so you can remove the u-joint. I was fortunate to get both parts (leveler and u-joint) from the Sears parts store for $107, but I think the price was a mistake on their part.

If you reach into the machine and try to lift the wash plate by the center hub, and the plate is loose (it moves up and down), that's a sure sign that it needs a leveler/u-joint assembly. You would most likely hear the noise while the machine is washing. (btw...for towels, use the normal cycle. Bulky items does not give you the high speed spin, only medium, which is similar to what your DD Kenmore gave you. You'll see the difference immediately.)

Your model number should be located under the rear of the lid, on the top cover of the machine.

I have a copy of the Calypso service manual. If you send me your e-mail address, I can send it to you in .pdf format. It's a very good manual. I can also talk you through the whole repair.

Post# 221674 , Reply# 6   7/9/2007 at 21:35 (6,133 days old) by andrewinorlando ()        

Oh, the top of the machine is removed the same way most Kenmore washers are. Just locate the two tabs under the machine's top, between the top and the front panel, and slide a strong, flat bladed object between the machine's top and front panel directly into the clip, until the clip disengages and frees the top. You can then lift the entire top up and lean it against a wall. If you peek between the opening between the top and front panel, you can actually see the two clips with a flashlight.

Post# 221675 , Reply# 7   7/9/2007 at 21:38 (6,133 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
Yours is a Kenmore. Mine is a Whirly.

On mine, there's a medallion insert at the front of the top panel. Pry it out carefully, remove a screw. Use a putty knife (or just pull forward) to release the top from the hold-down clips. There are then four screws to remove the front panel.

You don't have a medallion ... so it may just be a matter of locating and releasing the two hold-down clips.

Once you raise the top, and pull the front panel, and pull the bottom panel, you may find some rust. Pictures, please!!

There may also be a tech info sheet inside the front panel.

The lid switch can't be manually tricked very easily. It's hidden under the top panel, triggered by the lid hinge. Also, the machine won't start a new cycle until the lid is opened and closed, which is sensed via the lid switch. What I did is remove the rear cover on the control panel, remove the harness plug for the lid switch and place a jumper wire in the plug. Either remove and replace the jumper to "break" the lid switch circuit for running the next cycle .... or unplug the machine for 20 seconds or so to kill the power and reset the circuit boards.

AndrewInOrlando replaced his leveler and u-joint recently, I'm sure he'll come along and give you some pointers. :-)

You can find a service manual, Whirly-style, at http://www.servicematters.com, Technical Reference section, Technical Library, Job Aids, Laundry Products, 2nd page, document L-67

Post# 221676 , Reply# 8   7/9/2007 at 21:39 (6,133 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
Aha. He already did!

Post# 221677 , Reply# 9   7/9/2007 at 21:41 (6,133 days old) by andrewinorlando ()        

I'm not sure about this, and Glenn might know more about it, but I think the lid switch is impossible to permanently defeat as it is used as a reset for the controller once the cycle is finished. If you cannot open the lid and, as such, the switch, the machine will not reset, and you will not be able to start a new cycle. You will get an "L5" error.

If you're able to life the top of the machine up, you'll see the lid switch at the right rear of the lid and get an idea as to how you might "trick" it. I manually bypass it by sticking my hand in there whenever I want to watch the action.

Post# 221678 , Reply# 10   7/9/2007 at 21:41 (6,133 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
Also, check eBay for parts. There was a leveler recently.

Post# 221680 , Reply# 11   7/9/2007 at 21:48 (6,133 days old) by andrewinorlando ()        

Gotta be real careful disassembling and reassembling the machine. The inner and outer wash plates are plastic, and although they are very well made, you don't want to crack them where they screw into the u-joint. I really recommend a torque wrench to tighten the screws down. Both parts are very expensive. The inner plate is the center hub, the outer plate is the bottom wash plate that nutates as the machine washes.

Post# 221682 , Reply# 12   7/9/2007 at 21:48 (6,133 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
A more permanent way around the lid switch is to locate the two wires running to it from inside the control panel. Cut and splice them together to bypass the switch ... but also include a pushbutton momentary-contact (normally closed) or toggle switch for resetting the circuit so the controller board thinks the lid has been opened. You can drill a hole in the side panel of the console and mount the switch there. I haven't done that, being as it's just as easy to remove/replace the jumper wire or pull the power plug.

Post# 221685 , Reply# 13   7/9/2007 at 21:53 (6,133 days old) by jaxsunst ()        

I will try to get some interior works shots for you. I was happy with the results from the first load. We had a water heater mal-function that put about an inch of water in my laundry room. Home Shield came out today and installed a new water heater, but they left a mess. I washed the nasty towels from that, and they came out perfect.

Post# 221687 , Reply# 14   7/9/2007 at 21:59 (6,133 days old) by andrewinorlando ()        

Jax -

Will Home Shield repair the Calypso under your home warranty? Would there be a deductible for that?

Your biggest issue will be finding a repair tech that knows what the hell he's doing. I wouldn't let a novice touch that machine if he had never worked on one before. It's completely different inside from any other washer out there.

The actual repair is not hard, but it will take a couple of hours to complete, at least, with the right tools.

Post# 221690 , Reply# 15   7/9/2007 at 22:12 (6,133 days old) by jaxsunst ()        

Home Shield charges a $55 deductible per call, not per repair. If I have 10 things wrong, I only have to pay once. My contract says that the appliance has to be installed and working correctly at the beginning of my contract (which renews in two months). They repaired the DD about 6 months ago, so it is on file.

I was thinking about attempting the repair myself. I can do anything if I have good directions. This past winter, I taught myself how to do several car repairs, so I should be able to repair a washer with instruction (I hope).

Post# 221694 , Reply# 16   7/9/2007 at 22:22 (6,133 days old) by alr2903 (TN)        

Jackson glad you went out and bought it. $20.00 phewww, most wasted more than that on lotto tickets 07-07-07

Post# 221702 , Reply# 17   7/9/2007 at 22:49 (6,133 days old) by andrewinorlando ()        

Well, this is a fairly straighforward repair; it just takes time and patience as there are a lot of steps to doing it. And while ya got it apart, ya gotta play! And there are other things you should check on too.

Post# 221707 , Reply# 18   7/9/2007 at 22:56 (6,133 days old) by andrewinorlando ()        

Jax - check your e-mail.

Post# 221791 , Reply# 19   7/10/2007 at 11:50 (6,133 days old) by jaxsunst ()        

Got it, Thanks.

Post# 221795 , Reply# 20   7/10/2007 at 12:34 (6,133 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

bpetersxx's profile picture
``

Post# 221863 , Reply# 21   7/10/2007 at 21:06 (6,132 days old) by jaxsunst ()        

Still running trials on the machine. It runs fine on cycles with a med or slow spin. It makes a mild knocking noise. On fast spin cycles, it will attempt to get to full speed and give an Out of balance error. I watched it run with the lid off, the tub appears to move around a lot. The knocking is the funnel for the detergent dispensor hitting the side. It does agitate (or the Calypso version of agitate) smoothly with no knocking or other noises.

I have misplaced the usb cable for my video camera. As soon as I find it, or get another one, I will post video.

I'm going out of town this weekend, so it will probably be next week before I get to dig into more.

Post# 221865 , Reply# 22   7/10/2007 at 21:13 (6,132 days old) by andrewinorlando ()        

Could be a broken mounting strut or strut mount. Easy fix if it's a front one, a little harder if it's a rear one.

Post# 221940 , Reply# 23   7/11/2007 at 09:37 (6,132 days old) by jaxsunst ()        

OK, I'm trying to get the front off. There are hex screws. I have tried 4 different sets of hex screw drivers that I have and none of them work, what is the secret?

There is a Sears service center near my office, I'm going to got here today and price some parts.

Post# 221952 , Reply# 24   7/11/2007 at 10:42 (6,132 days old) by andrewinorlando ()        

There should be 2 or 4 screws at the top of the machine, once you pry open the clips that hold the top to the front and lift the top of the machine, separating it from the front cover. They are located on top of the front panel at each end. I believe they are philips head screws.

Post# 222358 , Reply# 25   7/13/2007 at 11:11 (6,130 days old) by jaxsunst ()        

There are 4 indented hex screws. According to the Sears parts list they are "8-18 x 1/2". I have tried 2 sets of wrenches (one english, one metric) and three sets of allen wrenchs. They appear to be between sizes.

I called Sears Repair center, I might as well been talking to my cat. Well, talking to my cat is better, at least he looks like he is interested. These were the rudest, most unhelpful people I have ever talked to. I asked to speak to the manager, and we the rudest of them all.

Post# 222360 , Reply# 26   7/13/2007 at 11:18 (6,130 days old) by jaxsunst ()        

Forgot to mention. Looking from the top, I think I have identified the offending strut. The one on the front left appears to stick out further than the others. Just an observation.

Post# 222374 , Reply# 27   7/13/2007 at 12:38 (6,130 days old) by andrewinorlando ()        

Jax-

THere's no real way to tell until you get the front panel off. I remembered that mine uses phillips head screws at the panel top because I used my electric screwdriver to get them off. Don't know what size you need, but if you have a parts center nearby, they sure should. Also, look on www.repairclinic.com.... THey have many many diagrams of every machine. Put in your model number and start searching. They will have exploded views of just about every part of the machine that they sell. The panel view should tell you the size of the screws. That might help.

Post# 222384 , Reply# 28   7/13/2007 at 13:46 (6,130 days old) by jaxsunst ()        

Repair clinic had the screw listed. They also have the tool needed to remove it in stock. I ordered the tool, should be here in a couple of days.

Just as well, I'm going out of town this weekend and I will not be able to work on it anyway.

Thank you so much.

Post# 222408 , Reply# 29   7/13/2007 at 15:53 (6,130 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
Jackson, are the front panel screws on your Kenmore perhaps Torx or square-drive?? My Whirly has four Philips screws as Andrew describes.

I'm thinking the tool you ordered from RepairClinic is for the basket spanner nut, not the front panel.

Another place to look for parts is Sears Parts Online. They have diagrams for most brands/models.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO dadoes's LINK
Post# 222458 , Reply# 30   7/13/2007 at 21:33 (6,129 days old) by andrewinorlando ()        

Glenn -

Since he described the screws as "there are 4 indented hex screws. According to the Sears parts list they are "8-18 x 1/2"", I don't think it's the spanning nut. But I also remember that my machine has only 2 phillips screws that hold the front panel on. I'm guessing they changed the design slightly in future releases. Mine is the original Calypso, first model year.

Post# 222698 , Reply# 31   7/14/2007 at 22:04 (6,128 days old) by laundryshark (Cedar Rapids, Iowa)        
If Pictures are Worth Thousands of Words...

 My cravings for Calypso videos would increase all the more. Any wonder I am having fun killing bordom this fine Saturday evening? Many thanks.--Laundry Shark

Post# 222780 , Reply# 32   7/15/2007 at 10:08 (6,128 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        
The Plug-Queen at play!

 toggleswitch's profile picture
*WOW* (Faint)

Storage-type hot water heater=>
Plug and [flex] cord connected?

These don't require a neutral (as there are no 110v components) so at least the ground [earth] and neutral don't have to share a conductor, even if this dryer plug has only three prongs/conductors.

We now return to our regularly scheduled program...........

Post# 222901 , Reply# 33   7/15/2007 at 20:19 (6,127 days old) by jaxsunst ()        

Back from parental visit....

The tool looks like a screw driver. I am using the machine on slow spin cycles, I have been amazed at how well it cleans.


Laundryshark, I plan to video my first washer repair and a full cycle after it is done, so stay tuned.

Toggleswitch, If your referencing the water heater. It is new and was installed a week ago tomorrow. It replaced the 1968 original to the house cabinet type water heater. I didn't even know the plug was back there until the new one was installed. My dryer uses the same 3 prong plug.

Post# 222932 , Reply# 34   7/15/2007 at 22:18 (6,127 days old) by andrewinorlando ()        

Jax -

How does it clean compared to the old Kenmore DD? Any idea yet?

Post# 222941 , Reply# 35   7/15/2007 at 23:38 (6,127 days old) by jaxsunst ()        

On my shop towels it did a better job. They came out looking new, no oil stains at all. i will be doing my first real wash day with it tomorrow, I'll let you know.

Post# 223011 , Reply# 36   7/16/2007 at 07:00 (6,127 days old) by mayken4now (Panama City, Florida)        

mayken4now's profile picture
Andrew and Glenn, and Jax too:

Was wondering if you all can shed some light as to when the last of the Calypso's were made? I cannot remember. A friend of ours just bought a "New" one at REX appliance center and I was shocked?????????????????

Steve

Post# 223021 , Reply# 37   7/16/2007 at 07:50 (6,127 days old) by andrewinorlando ()        

Steve -

They were discontinued in early 2006, so there are still some "new" ones around. The last year of manufacture saw a re-design of the control panel (and some of the cycle times, too) for both the washer and dryer. Every once in a while, one or two turn up at the Sears Outlet store...always new, with cosmetic damage, or new/returned for around $600.

Andrew

Post# 223092 , Reply# 38   7/16/2007 at 16:17 (6,127 days old) by jaxsunst ()        
First Washday results

 I just finished my first all Calypso wash day. After sorting the laundry, it would have been a light week for the DD (about 9 loads). The Calypso did it in 6. I am very, very impressed with the cleaning. Especially the whites.

How I compensated for the cycles, If I would normally use a cycle that I can't use right now, I would press it's button, see what the options and settings were, then set "Bulky Items" to match it.

My only complaint was drying times. But, that will resolve itself when I am no longer limited to slow/med spin.

Overall, I love this machine. I can't wait to get it 100% operational.

Post# 223108 , Reply# 39   7/16/2007 at 17:24 (6,127 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
If you're using only Bulky Items, you're not yet getting the full cleaning potential! Bulky does more spin-spray wash action than nutation, and the nutation it does do is at a moderate speed.

Post# 223118 , Reply# 40   7/16/2007 at 18:21 (6,126 days old) by andrewinorlando ()        

Glenn is absolutely correct....just wait until you can use the machine the way it was designed to be used. I always said, the key to the Calypso is a)low to medium suds, and b) don't overload it. Other than that, the machine ain't too picky, and will wash all combinations of fabrics....just do your silks and fine washables separately to minimize wrinkling and you'll do fine with it. Oh, and if you're using the Delicates/Casual cycle, it works best if you load the machine about 3/4 full and use a liquid detergent....it's a very, very gentle wash cycle, as is silks/woolens.

Post# 223142 , Reply# 41   7/16/2007 at 19:59 (6,126 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture
Jackson congratulations. Magic Clean loved his Calypso when he had it. They really aren't bad machines. If you sort properly and don't overload, it does wonders according to Leslie. It's just not a mahcine intended for you to throw all sorts of things into a load at the same time that should be dealt with differently. I know you'll enjoy it. It's a fun machine. Enjoyed using Glenn's.

Post# 223175 , Reply# 42   7/16/2007 at 21:55 (6,126 days old) by jaxsunst ()        

Repair clinic agrees with everyone else that it needs a u-joint. I just ordered the u-joint kit which includes an inner wash plate and leveler. I also ordered the spanner wrench. Got both for $130 with shipping.

Post# 223257 , Reply# 43   7/17/2007 at 08:00 (6,126 days old) by andrewinorlando ()        

Jax -

That's a damned good price for all that stuff!! And it's not a difficult repair...just have to take your time and be patient. It will help if you have a torque wrench because you don't want to crack the wash plates when you're tightening down, as well as a heavy rubber mallet to use to hit the spanning wrench with, and you should be good to go.

Post# 223263 , Reply# 44   7/17/2007 at 08:35 (6,126 days old) by mayken4now (Panama City, Florida)        

mayken4now's profile picture
Thanks for the date information Andrew. Ok, so I was off by a year or two. Thought they had quit in 2004 or so. No wonder I was so shocked when my friend bought this brand new last week.


Steve

Post# 223334 , Reply# 45   7/17/2007 at 13:53 (6,126 days old) by revvinkevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land)        
Question for you Jackson..........

 revvinkevin's profile picture
You mentioned "it will be nice once the machine is 100% operational" AND that you are using the "bulky items" cycle. Is it that it won't operate on any other cycle other then "bulky", or that you are just avoiding the other cycles to limit the final spin speed and the knocking noise??

Thanks!

Post# 223336 , Reply# 46   7/17/2007 at 14:16 (6,126 days old) by jaxsunst ()        

I'm avoiding using any of the fast spin cycles. Whenever I use "Whitest Whites" or "Normal" (the only two I have tried). It will attempt to go to full speed spin, then when the knocking gets really loud, it will stop, nutate a little, spray some water in, and try again, after three times of this, it gives a "OB" or out of balance error. I tried three different times with the same result.

Got the email that my parts have been shipped. I plan to have it going by my next wash day (probably Sunday). If not, I will hook up DD and do it. I don't want to stress the poor dear out too much.

Post# 223341 , Reply# 47   7/17/2007 at 14:28 (6,126 days old) by andrewinorlando ()        

Jax -

Did you get it open and take a look at its suspension yet?

Post# 223349 , Reply# 48   7/17/2007 at 14:52 (6,126 days old) by jaxsunst ()        

the tool should arrive today or tomorrow.

Post# 223423 , Reply# 49   7/17/2007 at 20:27 (6,125 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture
There isn't an option on the panel allowing you to choose a different spin speed than what's default for a cycle?

Post# 223442 , Reply# 50   7/17/2007 at 21:42 (6,125 days old) by andrewinorlando ()        

Bob-

All the cycles are preset for wash and spin speed and aren't adjustable. Only thing you can adjust is the wash time and temperature for the cycle, and of course add options like extra rinse, soak, 2nd rinse, etc., etc......

Post# 223613 , Reply# 51   7/18/2007 at 20:50 (6,124 days old) by laundromat (Hilo, Hawaii)        

laundromat's profile picture
C O L A P S O

Post# 223641 , Reply# 52   7/18/2007 at 21:44 (6,124 days old) by jaxsunst ()        

Got the front off. Took video, of the spin and violent stop. Will try to post it tomorrow evening. My upstairs cooling system went out, and it is 90 degrees up here. Repair guy has been out twice, and got it working then it dies within 5 hours of him leaving. I'm glad Home Shield is paying him.

Post# 223654 , Reply# 53   7/18/2007 at 22:17 (6,124 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture
Jackson, I'm sorry about the cooling system. Been therre done that and it's HUMID there.

Post# 223680 , Reply# 54   7/19/2007 at 01:14 (6,124 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
Used my Calypso twice yesterday. As said before, wouldn't mind having a factory-fresh new specimen if I could find one at a reasonable price.

Jackson, you mention "violent stop." I wouldn't call mine violent, but the brake is pretty hefty!

Post# 223731 , Reply# 55   7/19/2007 at 08:51 (6,124 days old) by jaxsunst ()        

I saw that on yours on the video. Mine jerks around 90 degrees and jumps when stopping. I will try to post the vid tonight, if it drops below 90 degrees up there.

Post# 223745 , Reply# 56   7/19/2007 at 10:01 (6,124 days old) by accapp ()        

You were warned, this is just the beginning. Speaking as a former AHS contractor, oddball stuff that is difficult to work on gets completely back-burnered or even denied on principle. The other contractors in my area were not very sharp at all, I certainly wouldn't trust them to repair a Craplypso correctly ever.

Post# 223781 , Reply# 57   7/19/2007 at 16:09 (6,124 days old) by jaxsunst ()        

I have been with AHS for 9 years. So far, the only problem I have is with their a/c contractors not returning calls or not showing when they said they would. Yesterday, he came at 5:30pm when he said that he would come at 11am.

We'll see, I plan to mostly work on the Calypso myself as kind of a hobby, and I have kept the DD just in case :-)

Post# 223787 , Reply# 58   7/19/2007 at 16:42 (6,124 days old) by andrewinorlando ()        

Accapp - they're hardly crap. Have had mine for years and it will clean as well as any front loader in less time using the same amount of energy and water. This thing has been a workhorse for 6 years now, and she shows no signs of slowing down. The matching dryer is equally capable. Hardly what I would call crap. Now a Norge-Tag, maybe that could be called crap......but I'm sure they have many happy owners too.

Jax- you may just have a defective spin brake on your machine. It's a little more involved to repair, just like a regular top loader's.

Post# 223833 , Reply# 59   7/19/2007 at 19:42 (6,123 days old) by jaxsunst ()        

the u-joint kit and spanner wrench came in today. Will work on it Saturday. A/C just showed up and it working (again) on the upstairs unit. It is 91 up there.

Spin Brake, is it in the book you sent? I'll look it up.

Post# 223851 , Reply# 60   7/19/2007 at 20:35 (6,123 days old) by jaxsunst ()        

Tell me more about the spin brake. While I was watching it, I noticed that it has new black newer style pump.

Post# 223861 , Reply# 61   7/19/2007 at 21:01 (6,123 days old) by andrewinorlando ()        

Jax -

One of the other members sent me another suggestion too. Check to make sure the machine is draining correctly. You never know what may be stuck down there under the wash plate. If it's not, the water moving around as the machine spins can cause the noises you heard. With the cover removed, fill the machine then set it to spin. You can see through the outer tub if there is any water still caught in there swirling around while the machine is spinning. If so, the pump, a hose or the plastic housing where the drain hoses connect may be clogged. This would certainly cause the violent stops as the tub locks up against the force of moving water. You can see from under the machine where all of the hoses connect at the back...it looks like a small plastic box. Could be a sock or hankie caught somewhere.

Is your water pump one piece or two? A two piece pump has the pump unit attached to the motor by two metal clamps at each side of the plactic pump housing, and sits directly underneath the motor. A one piece is, obviously, all one piece.

Yes, the info on the spin brake is the repair manual if you need it.

Post# 224364 , Reply# 62   7/21/2007 at 21:51 (6,121 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River)        

bpetersxx's profile picture
pump

I think this is 2 piece original pump

Post# 224372 , Reply# 63   7/21/2007 at 22:36 (6,121 days old) by andrewinorlando ()        

Yep, that's a two piece pump.....bottom piece snaps off the motor with those two clips at the side.

Post# 224604 , Reply# 64   7/22/2007 at 22:02 (6,120 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

pulsator's profile picture
I have GOT to get my hands on one of these AWESOME machines!!! Congrats!!!

Post# 224636 , Reply# 65   7/23/2007 at 05:45 (6,120 days old) by jaxsunst ()        

that's what I have.


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