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Thread Number: 13925
does anyone have vintage pre-1987 central air condtioners, forced-air gas furnaces, and thermostats? |
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| Post# 239163 9/28/2007 at 19:50 (6,046 days old) by fonografmaniac () | ||
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if yall want to know why i asked this because i'm fascinated vintage pre-1987 hvac units and love to see photos of some of them. if you have any of those rare vintage ge hvac units definitely post them. | ||
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Post# 239165 , Reply# 1 9/28/2007 at 20:11 (6,046 days old) by petek  (Ontari ari ari O ) |
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Our 1957 house still has its original Honeywell roundie thermostat. I will be replacing it shortly with a new Honeywell digital roundie because it is now so far out of calibration. Set at 65 keeps the house at about 72. That thing to the left of it in the picture is just a wireless indoor/outdoor thermometer I use to get the correct temps. We have hot water heating not forced air but I'll show you a pic of the original 1957 Hoffman boiler that still heating this place. 
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Post# 239167 , Reply# 2 9/28/2007 at 20:15 (6,046 days old) by petek (Ontari ari ari O ) |
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Here's the furnace, errr boiler, still works like a charm. This is the first house I've ever had or lived in with hot water heating rather than forced air and I have to say that I like hot water heating much better because it's quiet and it keeps the house temperature much more even, not as much temperature swings. Since you can't have central air with this there is a Mitsubishi Mr. Slim upstairs
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| Post# 239176 , Reply# 5 9/28/2007 at 21:19 (6,046 days old) by fonografmaniac () | ||
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the t-stat for that unit 
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| Post# 239177 , Reply# 6 9/28/2007 at 21:27 (6,046 days old) by rickr (.) | ||
How about a gravity one from 1941?
1941 Lennox. This is a very comfortable heating system. No drafts, and a nice even heat. I have no intent to replace it, even though I must use window units in the summer. I have lived here since 1979. In all those years, I have only had to replace the transformer for the thermostat. I replaced the original stat with a programable type in 1989. That stat was upgraded to a day by day programable stat five years ago. If you are to look close, you can see that there are two gas valves installed in the line. The original valve stuck in the open position in 1957. My grandparents owned the house then, and were away at church the Sunday the valve stuck. The furnace just kept pumping the heat out in the meantime. When my grandparents came home, the house was like a blast furnace. The varnish on the woodwork was sticky, they said! I am sure the furnace would have burned the house down, if nobody had returned home. To be on the safe side, they added an additional gas valve. That way, if one valve stuck open, the other would shut the furnace off. I tested the valves in 2005, and found the original valve to be stuck open again. The valve that I replaced is the smaller gray valve. I do not know when the original valve stuck open for the second time. It could have been right after it was "repaired" in 1957, or a few years before I tested both valves in 2005. At any rate, I feel safer with two working gas valves on this vintage furnace. This pixs was taken of the fans really, the furnace was just in the background. :> 
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| Post# 239181 , Reply# 7 9/28/2007 at 21:38 (6,046 days old) by fonografmaniac () | ||
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looks like it has those octopus-like ductwork. | ||
| Post# 239183 , Reply# 8 9/28/2007 at 21:39 (6,046 days old) by fonografmaniac () | ||
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i'm digging those fans rickr especially the one on the left | ||
| Post# 239184 , Reply# 9 9/28/2007 at 21:46 (6,046 days old) by rickr (.) | ||
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gas valve replacement 1957
Yeah, it takes up a lot of room! I could get more washers in that room if I bought a new furnace. I had an est. in 1987. It was $6000.00, and they said I would need a/c window units in the bedrooms upstairs. I said, no way!! I already HAVE window units upstairs! Whats the point??? If I had replaced this furnace in 1987. I would need a replacement again by now. By keeping this one, I do not need a replacement, even though I need window units in the bedrooms. (and one huge one downstairs) <: 
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| Post# 239186 , Reply# 10 9/28/2007 at 21:53 (6,046 days old) by rickr (.) | ||
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gas price est for 1946
After the war, there was a big push around here, to get people to switch to gas heating from coal. My grandparents had already done that prior to the war, but when the gas people came they let them do the evaluation for est. cost anyway, just to see how close it was. At any rate, it would be nice to pay these gas prices today wouldn't it?? <: BTW: the fan on the left is a Westinghouse from the 1920's the one on the right is a G.E. from the 1930's. I use the G.E. on the first floor in the summer to distribute the cool air from the huge window A/C. 
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Post# 239188 , Reply# 11 9/28/2007 at 21:58 (6,046 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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Hi Rick R. *WAVES* I'd be very curious to see the ductwork at the TOP of your classic Lennox. Can I entice you to take a snap of it? With a mili-volt pilot generating system, [no transformer needed] you could make this thing totally non-electric (read: works in a blackout!) By the way "warm-air system" implies/signifies fan-forced"hot-air system" implies/signifies gravity convection. Is there an actual temperature-limiting thermostat on, in or near the furnace or plenum for safety? oh yeah, a fan and a high-wall return WOULD allow for central A/C........... trick may be to ensure a LOW winter/heating speed to enjoy draft-free heating and a higher cooling speed. Most systems ovelook this important comfort factor of two speed fans for different seasonal needs. I must say it is truly unique and interesting! Most heating in this area in residences is hot water or steam, but not air. This is proably due to earliest apartment buildings having steam systems with radiators. | ||
| Post# 239190 , Reply# 12 9/28/2007 at 22:22 (6,046 days old) by rickr (.) | ||
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Hey Steve Wave back... Am sorry that I cannot photograph the top area of the furnace. The digital camera that I usually borrow from work was stolen! (they didn't get much....) At any rate, the top has a "bonnet" of heavy gauge steel, and it reaches 8 inches from the rafters in the basement. The bonnet is where the hot air pipes attach to the furnace. The cold return is the huge pipes at the bottom of the furnace. There is a limit switch installed in the bonnet, which is set at 250 degrees. Remember however, if the gas valves were to both stick, the limit switch would not be able to turn the burners off. In fact, this furnace came with the limit switch for safety. It just did no good with the gas valve stuck open. I don't really understand what you mean about operating this furnace with minivolts. What would power the stat, both gas valves and the limit switch then? | ||
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Post# 239196 , Reply# 13 9/29/2007 at 00:05 (6,046 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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As I recall, the horizontal forced air gas furnace in the crawl space is circa 1981. I forget the brand, but there is documentation on it... just have to find it... also have a couple of vintage manual thermostats - rectangular with mercury switches. I replaced the one in the house with a nice Lux digital set-back model, but kept the old ones - there's even a vintage original box for one of them over in one of garage cabinets. I'll try to fetch out the old thermostats and documentation this weekend. Don't know if I want to venture down into the crawl space, but if I do, I'll snap a photo of the furnace when I'm down there. No central AC here - not really needed. At most I need to run one or two small window AC units about seven days each year. The rest of the time I just cool down the house with large fans at night, shut it up in the morning, and come home to a house that's easily 20 degrees cooler than outdoors. I am planning on eventually replacing the old furnace with a more efficient one. The one down there is 100,000 BTU, which is really overkill once I weather-proofed and insulated the home to modern standards. I figure I could get by with a 50,000 to 70,000 BTU unit no problem. When I was cleaning out the workshop last month I found some old burner units, which must have been for the old furnace for the home. Those went into the recycle bin - I couldn't see hanging onto them any longer. | ||
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Post# 239202 , Reply# 14 9/29/2007 at 00:38 (6,046 days old) by petek (Ontari ari ari O ) |
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I pray I don't have to replace this old boiler. The other great thing about it is that it holds a lot of residual heat and keeps this basement toasty warm all winter long. My moms basement, she has a hi efficiency Carrier forced air in the basement, is never as comfortable as my basement and I've fiddled with her duct/vents down there but it ends up making the main floor too cool in the winter. She doesn't use the downstairs rek room and workshop anyways,,just the laundry room every few days. I've compared our monthly gas bills, my house is considerably bigger than moms yet our gas bills are much the same. Whether a new hi efficiency boiler is going to save me any money I just don't know but I don't want to go spending $8 grand or whatever they cost and have to wait a lifetime to recoup the cost and reap any savings if any.
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Post# 239247 , Reply# 16 9/29/2007 at 05:14 (6,046 days old) by polkanut (Wausau, WI ) |
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Sorry, no pics, | ||
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Post# 239254 , Reply# 17 9/29/2007 at 05:59 (6,046 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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LOVE this topic/thread, BTW!
~I don't really understand what you mean about operating this furnace with minivolts. What would power the stat, both gas valves and the limit switch then? YES. A pilot flame licking a special thermocouple (heat sensor) that has two dis-similar metals generates a small voltage (1/1,000th of a volt or something-- hence milli-volt (sp?)) this voltage flows through the thermostat, the limit thermostat and powers a SPECIAL gas valve. No transformer or line voltage neded. I did not take into account two gas valves. Don't know if there is enough power to open two. Thanks for the response! Then again if what you have is a 24v control system (which is the usual), two car batteries (in series) and a car-battery charger to keep them "full" will get you through blackouts just as well. Just don't let the transformer get any power from the 24v (secondary) side! Best regards, -Steve The text in the link is not so clear and misleading (jumps around in concept), and between systems; but see the 2nd line in the grid, below the text. This is what I was referencing! CLICK HERE TO GO TO toggleswitch's LINK | ||
| Post# 239255 , Reply# 18 9/29/2007 at 06:02 (6,046 days old) by seamusuk (Dover Kent UK) | ||
Asbestos...... | ||
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Post# 239256 , Reply# 19 9/29/2007 at 06:07 (6,046 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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Millivolt Gas Valve
750 millivolts = 750/1,000 or 0.75v, I would assume. Powerpile = thermopile = thermocouple. Question is, can such voltage open TWO? Perhaps one of these and one as you currently have (piped in series) with a by-pass so you can manualy route the gas (via piping and a valve) around the electric-opeated one in a blackout. CLICK HERE TO GO TO toggleswitch's LINK | ||
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Post# 239257 , Reply# 20 9/29/2007 at 06:11 (6,046 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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~Is there not an Asbestos danger with some of these- Rick particually yours from 1941? guess it could have been removed at some point tho? As long as asbestos is not friable, it is generally considered to be safe. As long as there is no asbestos in the air-flow "circuit" I personally woeuld not fret too much over it, if at all. If there is asbestos in the combustion chamber, I'm thinikng any released will float up and out of the chimney, which would not affect (in theory) the occupants of the home. | ||
| Post# 239279 , Reply# 23 9/29/2007 at 08:05 (6,046 days old) by chromacolor () | ||
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Picture of 1963 Sears Furnace my pix doesn't seem to want to load. I'll try one more time. 
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| Post# 239282 , Reply# 24 9/29/2007 at 08:12 (6,046 days old) by jasonl (Cookeville, TN) | ||
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I remember when I was small, we had a 70s Carrier central AC/Heat with Honeywell roundie. My grandparents had an earlier GE Central Air. The original motor used to make a distinctive sound on startup, kind like a vintage fan. Sorry, I have no pics, only memories. | ||
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Post# 239325 , Reply# 26 9/29/2007 at 11:42 (6,046 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH) |
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Don't replace the Roundie, its not broken!
Pete, don't replace your Honeywell Roundie thermostat, it's not broken. Those operate with a mercury switch, and the thermostat must be absolutely level to be accurate. Try leveling your thermostat and see if that fixes it. Take off the front cover and there should be a line on the back, just get a small level, hold it up to the line, and loosten the screws, turn the thermostat housing until its level, tighten the screws, and put the cover on and test. The mercury switch is a glass vile with a drop of mercury in it. The vile is attached to a bi-metal coil. As the temperature changes, the coil expands and contracts, tilting the glass vile left and right. The drop of mercury slides to whichever end of the vile is lower, one end has the electrical contacts in it. When the drop of mercury hits both contacts, it completes the circuit and turns the system on, when the vile tilts the other way, the mercury leaves the contacts and the system shuts off. If the thermostat isn't level, the vile won't be at the right angle, so just level it. Mercury is dangerous in nature, so don't juust throw away a perfectly good Roundie, Dave | ||
| Post# 239330 , Reply# 27 9/29/2007 at 12:11 (6,046 days old) by fonografmaniac () | ||
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yo j, was that ge unit the uprite ones with the round dome-shaped fan grill? my dads house used to have that kind. itz from 1970 and it came with the house when it was built. | ||
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Post# 239379 , Reply# 29 9/29/2007 at 16:36 (6,045 days old) by petek (Ontari ari ari O ) |
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Well I went ahead to install the new digital roundie seeing as I'd bought it a few months back only to find out after istalling it and seeing nothing, then rereading the package that it won't work on my two wire standing pilot system..GRRRRRRRRRRR and GRRRRRR again. My fault for not reading the back of the package thoroughly enough. Anyways all is well and I put the oldie back on, after blowing about 1 pound worth of dust of the mercury vial lol. I re levelled it and it's fine. I'm going to take the roundie over to moms house. Last year I put her in a new Honeywell, but a square shaped one with up/down buttons and buttons for switching between her a/c and heat and a button for fan on/off. It's done nothing but confuse her since I put it in. I even had to tape over the fan on/off button because she was always getting them confused. This digital roundie will be much easier for her to use since she's always said she liked those kind better anyways.
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| Post# 239388 , Reply# 30 9/29/2007 at 17:11 (6,045 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E) | ||
Honeywell's "Round"
That thermostat is called "The Round", and was designed by no less than Henry Dreyfuss. It's one hell of a thermostat; so long as it's level and free of dust, it will operate essentially forever. One of the most unique things about The Round when it was designed was that it was completely self-explanatory; no one had to read an instruction manual to be able to use it. Many thermostats are like that today (well, non-programmable ones, anyway), but Dreyfuss did it first. It was also designed expressly not to take a chunk out of anyone who bumped into it in a narrow and/or dark hallway.
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| Post# 239682 , Reply# 32 9/30/2007 at 20:47 (6,044 days old) by cammurray22 (Savannah,Georgia) | ||
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Floor Furnaces You should take a look at the pre-1987 floor furnaces. I had one in my mom's house. The brand name was Ward. They get extremely hot if you put it on 80, so be careful! Chris | ||
| Post# 239713 , Reply# 33 12/31/2069 at 18:00 (19,831 days old) by red_october () | ||
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1979 Vintage Burnham gas-fired furnace This is in my parents' house. Thanks to my mom's handywork with a china marker, you can tell who our gas supplier is. 
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| Post# 239715 , Reply# 34 12/31/2069 at 18:00 (19,831 days old) by red_october () | ||
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Here's the nameplate and soforth. I actually had no idea it was this old 'til I cracked it to make these photographs. (house was built around 1982) 
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Post# 239849 , Reply# 36 10/1/2007 at 19:24 (6,043 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Old General Controls Thermostats | ||
| Post# 239868 , Reply# 37 10/1/2007 at 20:42 (6,043 days old) by fonografmaniac () | ||
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bundtboy, is the unit a split system or a package unit and what brand it is? btw, on ebay i saw a ge central air conditioner ad from 1967 and it was the same exact ge ac my dads used to have, but his is from 1970. | ||
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Post# 239980 , Reply# 40 10/2/2007 at 11:28 (6,043 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay) |
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My parents' house had the original gravity furnace from 1925 up until my mom developed asthma and they replaced it in the early 80's with a super filtrated forced air system. We didn't even know it until the old furnace came out, but it had a large metal plate on it, probably 12" by 18" that indicates it was a Mc Laughlin Warm Air Furnace with "gas fuel, electronic control." I saved it and used to have it on the wall in my office when I worked for an HVAC contractor. Still have it up in my garage now. I pulled an old roundie Honeywell t'stat at my house to replace it with one that has a timer. My sister has a really old (probably 60's) t'stat that seems to be acting up so I gave her the roundie. If she hasn't installed it yet (she's in LA so likely hasn't needed the furnace for several months) I will do it next time I visit her. These are great units that are completely accurate and reliable. | ||
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Post# 240508 , Reply# 41 10/5/2007 at 13:47 (6,039 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay) |
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What Brand of Thermostat is This?
The nursing home my mom is in was built in the 60's, maybe late 50's. She was moved to a new room recently and I noticed an older looking thermostat in there. It's the usual smoky gold plastic and appears to be a loose interpretation of a round Honeywell. It has a large "P" with a shield-shaped outline around it for a logo on the front. Anybody know what this one is? Might the "P" be for "Payne"?
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Post# 240530 , Reply# 42 10/5/2007 at 17:02 (6,039 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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~M-I-L? What is that? ~One side says 'draft' and the other side says 'check'. Draft=> To induce greater draft/heat? Check => To reduce or prevent draft/ heat as in "check-valve" or "check-mate?" Or the saying "keep it in check?" As used, to mean => "Keep it controlled?" ~I see electric forced-air furnaces....but they cost frightening amounts of money to run. Yes, in most areas WITHOUT hydro-electric (read: super-inexpensive) power they can cost double to quadruple what a fossil-fuel-fired unit costs to run. But Dan, I thought your area has some of the most inexpensive power in the country due to hydro-electic generation, so I'm confused by your statement.Woudja fill me in, please. First thing that can be done if electric heating is painfully costly is get a heat-pump, well at least, if fossil fuels can't be done. Without ducts, a Mitubishi Mr. Slim is a good option. IMHO CLICK HERE TO GO TO toggleswitch's LINK | ||
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Post# 240560 , Reply# 43 10/5/2007 at 19:50 (6,039 days old) by petek (Ontari ari ari O ) |
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What Brand of Thermostat is This?
Could it possibly be a rheostat for an old Pryne Blo Fan ceiling exhaust. Mom still has one in her kitchen ceiling but I can't remember if it has a shield on it or not.. I'll have to take a look. Search Pryne Blo Fan on Ebay there's some stuff there as well as some of their 50's cheescake calendars and desk blotters which are a hoot of hooters and gams | ||
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Post# 240596 , Reply# 44 10/5/2007 at 23:21 (6,039 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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Post# 240622 , Reply# 45 10/6/2007 at 06:07 (6,039 days old) by polkanut (Wausau, WI ) |
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Togs dear, | ||
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Post# 240624 , Reply# 46 10/6/2007 at 06:55 (6,039 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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Hello Shady Pines Rest Home? | ||
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Post# 240629 , Reply# 47 10/6/2007 at 07:28 (6,039 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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Natural gas powered heat-pump that heats and cools.
Since this thread appears to have peaked, I thought I might hijack..........er...... re-direct it at this time. In the summer it cools with natural gas, using that fuel when sales/consumption is at its lowest. Relieves over-burdened electrical grid in summer YAY! In the winter it functions as a heat-pump extracting heat from the outdoors, concentrating it then releasing it indoors. There is always some degree of heat outdoors; absolute zero (no heat @ all) is measured in degrees Kelvin. Hence "Kelvintor", get it? °F = (K × 1.8) − 459.67 °C = K − 273.15 Anyhoo the heat used to power the unit is also harnessed in the winter resulting in efficiencies of 136% +/- IIRC. At one time the ammonia/water mix used in the process was thought-of as dangerous. It is now touted as "environmentally friendly." Go figure! CLICK HERE TO GO TO toggleswitch's LINK | ||
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Post# 240631 , Reply# 48 10/6/2007 at 07:35 (6,039 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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Post# 240727 , Reply# 50 10/6/2007 at 18:09 (6,038 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA) |
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1915 Gravity Charcoal Heater
Sorry I cannot remember what the brand on this one is. It is what's in our house in Portland at the moment. The picture does it absolutely NO justice as far as its size is concerned. It originally was charcoal burning since there is a chute going from the side of the house to the basement. It was eventually converted to oil and now resides looking more beautiful than ever. I can't wait to slap on a MOP suit and get rid of it.
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Post# 240745 , Reply# 51 10/6/2007 at 20:17 (6,038 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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~Thanks to the link that reminds me how overpriced my heat is, Toggle. *LOL* Even one propane heater (VENTED!!!) in the form of a wall-furnace or console-unit or even a floor-furnace will reduce your heating bills dramatically compared to resistance electric heating. In a financial crunch you can get a "temporary" through-the wall heat-pump A/C "sleeve-unit" [i.e. back-breather]in a standard "Fedders" sleeve to hold you for a winter or two......Or just replace an existing through-the wall A/C with one. It will be electric but MUCH less expensive to run. If you don't have central A/C it might make sense to add one of these with a heat-pump or propane furnace. Adds value to your house and then you have more than just duplicate heating systems with no cooling. Since I beleive you have baseboard heating (albeit electric) you might even want to have the air vents in the ceiling, for ease and economy of installation costs, (which is NOT ideal for heating), but BE SURE to have a low-wall or FLOOR return to pull the cold air into the system which pulls the heated air down (thus avoid stratification=> hot head, cold feet). Too much said. Later! | ||
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Post# 240750 , Reply# 52 10/6/2007 at 20:35 (6,038 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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Friedrich brand heat-pumps, through-the-wall. It may hurt now with the intial outlay, but these will pay for themselves, I'd say in three years or less. Again, the Mitsubishi mini-spilt systems (a/k/a Mr. Slims) are quiter than through-the-wall unit (nearly silent except for a blower indoors, actually). Three or four indoor untsts (read: rooms/sapces) can be connected to one outdoor unit. The compressor works up to 50% faster in severe winter to help extract more heat from the out-of-doors. It is understandable to want perfection in your new heating system, but the intial outlay as you said will be very dear in cost. Perhaps an interim measure will suit you well! Best of luck and happy choices! BTW, Jon, more pics of that gravity coal furnace would be much appreciated. For those of you with oil heat, RIELLO oil-burning heads are Italian in origin and burn CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN! [A very high pressure atomitizing nozzle-head breaks the oil down into very fine easy-to-burn mist.] I was reluctant to steer away from the (former) US market-leader of a Beckett brand burner-head. NO REGRETS SO FAR! And I no longer need an annual cleaning. *LOL*, well my heater doesn't anyway! LOL CLICK HERE TO GO TO toggleswitch's LINK | ||
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Post# 240755 , Reply# 54 10/6/2007 at 20:47 (6,038 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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~After the first few years, when rusty, dusty water would drip out of the vents all winter. How do other homes in your area/climate handle this? Do the vents all have to be closed all winter? My ducts [to a newly installed colling-only system]are in an unheated attic and so far no problem. Then again my ducts are basically like vinyl dryer hoses, but insulated and have a larger hose over the insulation. Nuttin' to rust except the register "boot", and the grille itself. Seriously, any type of heat-pump will reduce costs and pay for itself. At one time I had heard that my latitude was the furthest-north ridge suitable for a heat-pump. But in am sitting in central CT (further north) at this moment in a community full of heat-pumps! | ||
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Post# 241172 , Reply# 57 10/8/2007 at 23:38 (6,036 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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There is no EASY way.................... | ||
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Post# 241277 , Reply# 58 10/9/2007 at 14:49 (6,035 days old) by cuffs054 (MONTICELLO, GA) |
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I would think the shutters were used for coal fire to control draft. | ||
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Post# 241290 , Reply# 59 10/9/2007 at 15:29 (6,035 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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Hmmm I would have assumed that air-shutters for coal burning are non-electric and use a bi-metal thermostatic damper control. Unless there was an auger-screw electric coal-feeder coal burning was not normally electrically controlled/regulated, IMHO. The beauty of coal-burning steam-generating central heating systems systems (as were typically found in NYC) is that they were totally non-electric. I would further assume these pictured to be electrically operated and for a gaseous or liquid fuel. Gas burning conversion heads are known as power-burners (they look like oil-burners)and deliver a ball-of-flame in one location rather than a more typical designed-for-gas furnace or boiler which has a number of gas burning tubes or jets that spread out the flames. The power burners typically have a fan to push secondary combustion air into the combustion chamber, and to induce a positive draft. Of course the (non-powered) gas venturi used to mix in primary air for combustion is normally outside the combustion chamber. | ||
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Post# 242822 , Reply# 61 10/16/2007 at 18:15 (6,028 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Post# 242843 , Reply# 62 10/16/2007 at 20:07 (6,028 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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| Post# 242888 , Reply# 63 10/16/2007 at 23:38 (6,028 days old) by gregm () | ||
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check this out ... ... ... this is rare, probably ways a ton, old casement window AC unit buy "chrysler" CLICK HERE TO GO TO gregm's LINK on Boston Craigslist | ||
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Post# 242897 , Reply# 64 10/17/2007 at 01:51 (6,028 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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It's a "Minneapoli-s-Honeywell"... | ||
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Post# 243098 , Reply# 65 10/17/2007 at 23:20 (6,027 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Post# 243099 , Reply# 66 10/17/2007 at 23:23 (6,027 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Another try | ||
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Post# 243100 , Reply# 67 10/17/2007 at 23:36 (6,027 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Inside the beast
Note that the tempeature adjustment knob is removable ("security"), and the copper bellows. The thing is very solid - the black base is real bakelite. I put "security" in quotes because I found a simple allen wrench in my desk that opens up the thermostat, and it also fits the temperature control adjuster perfectly. But I guess in its day the mfg didn't expect the average office or factory worker to figure that out... lol... 
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| Post# 243104 , Reply# 68 10/18/2007 at 00:03 (6,027 days old) by gocartwasher () | ||
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I do its a 1978 the oil furnace I have & still use here at my home you can see it in the right hand of my living room its a Lsi seigler 
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Post# 243141 , Reply# 69 10/18/2007 at 06:37 (6,027 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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Thanks fo posting Rich and Gocart | ||
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