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Thread Number: 14647
Maytag DE-500 dryer |
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Post# 248857 11/18/2007 at 13:46 (5,997 days old) by sudsmaster  (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Saw one of these this morning. Very interesting, instead of a center dial there's a cicular emblem that says "Electric Drying" or something like that. Then there are four gray buttons to the right, for different types of drying. No timer whatsoever... didn't know that Maytag made one of these so early on. The fins inside the drum looked like they were sensors - sort of coppery metal flutes on them. I could have had it for $40 but decided I didn't have the room at the moment. But I'm sure someone will snap it up, even though the paint on the cabinet (no porcelain) was pretty worn. | ||
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| Post# 248875 , Reply# 1 11/18/2007 at 15:31 (5,997 days old) by mayken4now (Panama City, Florida) | ||
The Gray Buttons  | ||
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Post# 248877 , Reply# 2 11/18/2007 at 15:44 (5,997 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Post# 248889 , Reply# 3 11/18/2007 at 16:42 (5,997 days old) by appnut (TX) |
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| Post# 248900 , Reply# 4 11/18/2007 at 18:19 (5,997 days old) by bpetersxx (laf in on the banks of the Wabash River) | ||
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Post# 248909 , Reply# 5 11/18/2007 at 19:43 (5,997 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Hmmm. | ||
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Post# 248914 , Reply# 6 11/18/2007 at 20:31 (5,997 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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As these things go | ||
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Post# 249135 , Reply# 7 11/19/2007 at 18:46 (5,996 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Post# 249196 , Reply# 8 11/20/2007 at 04:34 (5,996 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions) |
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| Post# 249203 , Reply# 9 11/20/2007 at 06:10 (5,996 days old) by mayken4now (Panama City, Florida) | ||
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Post# 249279 , Reply# 10 11/20/2007 at 14:27 (5,995 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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I'm supposed to pick it up on Friday. The seller said she'd hold it for me, "as long as I don't find out it's worth $5,000". To which I replied, "No way!". She seemed ok with that. We'll see. It's not as if I really crave this dryer - it is interesting but not the oldest dryer made by Maytag, by any chance. Anyway, if she puts me off again I'll just forget the whole thing. I don't need any additional difficult people in my life ;-). | ||
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Post# 249345 , Reply# 11 11/20/2007 at 18:45 (5,995 days old) by appnut (TX) |
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but not the oldest dryer made by Maytag, by any chance | ||
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Post# 249355 , Reply# 12 11/20/2007 at 20:18 (5,995 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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The DE-500 is also huge. I didn't measure it, but it must be at least 30 inches wide. The drum capacity didn't appear to be any bigger than my Neptune dryer, though. The lint filter is at the back of the drum. I am surmising that heated air enters the drum via the slotted fins, hence the name, "Halo of Heat". I suppose it works well enough - the seller had no complaints about its functioning, although it appeared that it might not be shutting off properly. She said it just buzzes and they open the door. Door probably needs new rubber gasket - although there's not much to it anyway. The vent opening is in an odd location - the upper right hand rear corner of the cabinet, on the side. And of coure they had the scary plastic flex ducting still attached... lol... | ||
| Post# 249371 , Reply# 13 11/20/2007 at 22:00 (5,995 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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Post# 249372 , Reply# 14 11/20/2007 at 22:18 (5,995 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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Maytag Dryer 28.5" Washer 25.5" =========== 54.0" Most other brands: Dryer 27.0" Washer 27.0" ============ 54.0" Of course you can still get 29.0" wide dryer by Whirlpool and Kenmore. Paired with their 24.0" wide washer the total size is then one inch smaller at 53.0" ~The vent opening is in an odd location - the upper right hand rear corner of the cabinet, on the side. Straight back (not to the side) from that location was fairly typical of the older generation but smaller capacity dryers. Side venting was easy to accomplish in a Maytag by turning the elbow inside the machine and opening the knock-out on the side of the machine. ~And of coure they had the scary plastic flex ducting still attached. These only became really scary (a pronounced fire-hazard) after Bounce and other dyrer sheets were introduced. Dryer manufacturers recommened against them at first due to the risks. | ||
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Post# 249413 , Reply# 15 11/21/2007 at 07:12 (5,995 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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They really are bad for the environment, bad for the machine | ||
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Post# 249802 , Reply# 16 11/23/2007 at 18:15 (5,992 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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"The Eagle Has Laundered" | ||
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Post# 249803 , Reply# 17 11/23/2007 at 18:16 (5,992 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Post# 249804 , Reply# 18 11/23/2007 at 18:17 (5,992 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Post# 249805 , Reply# 19 11/23/2007 at 18:18 (5,992 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Post# 249806 , Reply# 20 11/23/2007 at 18:20 (5,992 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Post# 249807 , Reply# 21 11/23/2007 at 18:21 (5,992 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Post# 249809 , Reply# 22 11/23/2007 at 18:22 (5,992 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Post# 249810 , Reply# 23 11/23/2007 at 18:25 (5,992 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Post# 249811 , Reply# 24 11/23/2007 at 18:32 (5,992 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Summary
Considering it's probably seen a lot of use, this dryer is in remarkably good condition. The area behind the lint filter needs to be taken apart and vacuumed out. The power cord is crumbling and I will replace it before running the dryer (plus I want to use a different plug for it). The front door frame gasket (boot?) is hardened and showing signs of cracking around the edges. It should be replaced but finding a replacement might be a challenge. Overall, it needs cleaning and tuning up, no doubt. The drum turns smoothly, so that's a good sign. A bit of luck accompanied the transport. When I got it in my courtyard, and opened the door, the upper hinge was loose and missing two screws. Amazingly, I found one of the screws, and the chromed cap nut for it, sitting on the inside ledge of the door. Another chrome cap nut was sitting on the ledge of the cabinet. I measured the screws and figured they were 4-40 x 1/4 flat heads. I was preparing to go to the hardware store and get a replacement screw, but checked the bed of the truck and found the missing one. Oddly, the workshop here has a little box on a shelf filled with almost identical 4-40 cap nuts, except these are painted or plated army green. Anyway, it's nice when things fall apart unexpectedly you find all the parts.... lol... Not sure if the top on this thing is porcelain or not. Don't think the cabinet is, but there are no real signs of rust, so it must have been kept in a warm dry environment. Speaking of which, time to roll it into shelter to continue its priviledged life... | ||
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Post# 249828 , Reply# 25 11/23/2007 at 20:27 (5,992 days old) by appnut (TX) |
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Post# 249869 , Reply# 26 11/23/2007 at 23:58 (5,992 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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DE-500 Dimensions | ||
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Post# 249938 , Reply# 27 11/24/2007 at 10:28 (5,991 days old) by polkanut (Wausau, WI ) |
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Post# 249960 , Reply# 28 11/24/2007 at 11:43 (5,991 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Post# 249974 , Reply# 29 11/24/2007 at 12:55 (5,991 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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1700 Watts
On 120v isn't bad, if one pairs the dryer with either an extractor or high speed final spin. My portable Whirlpool uses 1500W, and will take about 45mins to dry a load of thick and thirsty bath towels that have been spun at 1100 in the Miele. Do not think code restrictions today would allow pulling 1700watts from a 15amp or even 20 amp circut. L. | ||
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Post# 249995 , Reply# 30 11/24/2007 at 14:23 (5,991 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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The number plate doesn't say, but I'd be willing to bet that the 1700 watts connection is for 20 amp 110 volt circuits only. 1700/110=15.45 amps. This is within the 20% margin of error normally allotted to such circuits. In other words, on a 20 amp circuit, 16 amps maximum would be allowed. On a 15 amp circuit, 12 amps or 1320 watts would be the 80%maximum for any single appliance. Some appliances may say they draw 1500 watts but that is usually an overstatement or the maximum on startup - a temporary draw. For example, I just bought a small all-metal "utility heater" for sticking under my desk at the shop. The tag says it's 1500 watts. But I stuck it on a watt meter on high and it draws just a little over 1300 watts. This is probably also why 110 volt American front loaders' heating elements are generally limited to 1000 watts - any more would mean that the motor would not be allowed to come on during heating (as is or was the case with the heated Speed Queen front loader) because that would cause the appliance to exceed the 80% safety figure. | ||
| Post# 249999 , Reply# 31 11/24/2007 at 15:08 (5,991 days old) by mrcleanjeans (milwaukee wi) | ||
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the cut-off date How does one cancel the cycle if you change your mind? | ||
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Post# 250000 , Reply# 32 11/24/2007 at 15:29 (5,991 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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How does one cancel the cycle if you change your mind?
I wondered the same thing. Until I rewire the power cable, my guess is that one can just open the door to stop the cycle, and then select another button. Or, perhaps, one can just select a different button for a different dryness level. There are only four selections: Regular, Wash 'n Wear, Damp Dry, and Air Fluff. Probably all most people need anyway. I suspect there is an internal adjustment for just how dry the load will be before the machine stops the drying cycle. I'll find out when I tear the thing apart for cleaning. There's a monetary incentive so to do: I can hear coins rattling around the base when I tip the machine, lol. | ||
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Post# 250003 , Reply# 33 11/24/2007 at 15:54 (5,991 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!) |
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Congrats on the new dryer. It is a beast of a thing and you'll be shocked at how much wasted space there is inside the cabinet - the drum could have easily been two inches or more larger! With the electronic control Maytags, it's dry or damp. No adjustments. There was an additional resistor available as a service "correction" for those who complained about wet seams of denims, etc. that merely extended the "over-run" with heat after the electronic control sensed that the load was dry. I think this came later though, my DE906 had this added. | ||
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Post# 250007 , Reply# 34 11/24/2007 at 16:26 (5,991 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions) |
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Post# 250026 , Reply# 35 11/24/2007 at 17:40 (5,991 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Greg, Thanks for the info. In this dryer, would I be correct in assuming that the heat enters via the slots in the fins, and exits via the lint filter at the rear of the drum? If so, this might help explain why the cabinet is so much bigger than the external drum - there would have to be another enclosure around the inner drum to contain the hot air (ergo, "Halo of Heat"). Still, it does seem to be rather porky, lol. Just from what I can see from looking in the rear vent hole, there's a lot of real estate in there. The thing also is not light. It's got thick sheet metal and a lot of it. Much heavier than my Neptune 7500 dryer, or an earlier gas WCI number. Still, the solid base allowed me to rest it on a furniture dolly, so I can roll it around the shop as needed to make way for other projects. | ||
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Post# 250040 , Reply# 36 11/24/2007 at 18:47 (5,991 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!) |
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Actually, the element is around the front of the drum. Heat enters through the small holes around the door opening. The wire-wrapped baffles in the drum are the moisture sensors. These are connected to wires and a carbon brush at the back of the drum which rides on a "slip ring" connected to the electronic control unit.
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Post# 250057 , Reply# 37 11/24/2007 at 21:05 (5,991 days old) by appnut (TX) |
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Dryness level
I know later Electronic Control dryers D806 & D906 said to use the W'n'W button for heavier loads or loads which needed a higher degree of dryness instead of the regular fabrics button. Incidentally, the dryer just has two heat levels--heat and air. Aside from degree of dryness, the W'n'W button also had a longer cooldown. On regular, I believe once the dry level was met and the button popped out, the dryer shut off. Same with Damp Dry. Air fluff I believe was either a 10 or 15 minute cycle.
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Post# 250059 , Reply# 38 11/24/2007 at 21:11 (5,991 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Greg, Thanks for the drawing. Very nice. Do you have more on the innards of this dryer? I knew that the copper coils are for moisture sensing. I guess I got the idea from my first look at the machine that there were slots next to the coils as well. It's not easy to tell ... pretty dark inside that drum, and the door opening is almost Euro sized. The fact that the heated air entered just behind the door would account for the somewhat baked state of the door gasket. Any idea where I could get a replacement? Bob, Interesting that the Wash 'n Wear button got things drier than the Normal button. Since all my stuff is basically wash and wear (I haven't ironed anything in long time), that's the one I'd use if I used this dryer on a regular basis. | ||
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Post# 250106 , Reply# 39 11/25/2007 at 00:10 (5,991 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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IIRC, as explained by Tomturbomatic, WnW or PP heats to 165°F *after* the dryness sensing is done, for purpose of "ironing out the wrinkles." I've noticed PP on my DE906 runs longer than I expected. Last time I used it, I checked the load after it had run a while and the cabinet was very warm. The load was completely dry and considerably heated. Not knowing how much longer it "wanted" to run, I simply hung the items to cool and they came out quite nice. I'd be leery of running heat-sensitive items, though.
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Post# 250120 , Reply# 40 11/25/2007 at 01:55 (5,991 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Post# 250151 , Reply# 41 11/25/2007 at 11:04 (5,990 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut) |
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Hey Greg, | ||
| Post# 250161 , Reply# 42 11/25/2007 at 12:01 (5,990 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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Any idea where I could get a replacement?
There are many parts still available for these machines as they cross reference to many different halo of heat models up until 1975.
CLICK HERE TO GO TO qsd-dan's LINK | ||
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Post# 250181 , Reply# 43 11/25/2007 at 14:46 (5,990 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Post# 250504 , Reply# 44 11/26/2007 at 21:21 (5,989 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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The Good, The Bad, and the Not So Ugly
The good news: the door gasket part number in the link, 314077 was available down the street at the local parts house. The bad news: They brought out the part in the factory Maytag bag and it's quite a bit different from what's on the dryer. In fact I don't think it would work at all. The Not So Ugly: The parts store looked up the original part number, and its replacement, but said that neither are available. They did say it's possible someone might have old stock. The original part number is 311015; the replacement is 312231. So far I haven't been able to locate the part on the Internet, though. The Not So Ugly part is that the door gasket on the dryer isn't torn and will probably last a few more years. | ||
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Post# 250525 , Reply# 45 11/26/2007 at 22:34 (5,989 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!) |
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Maytag dryer door seals --
Crap. I forgot to post this about the door seals. After some research on the door seals a while ago, I found that all of the door seals for the Halo-Of-Heat are NLA but there are still a scant few places to look for them. Try Larry at Modern Parts in Parma, OH (216)661-6966. For our future reference: Highlander door seal: 312231 Deluxe models: 302448 '06 series: 312238 | ||
| Post# 250543 , Reply# 46 11/27/2007 at 00:16 (5,989 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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| Post# 250545 , Reply# 47 11/27/2007 at 00:21 (5,989 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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| Post# 250546 , Reply# 48 11/27/2007 at 00:22 (5,989 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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Post# 250714 , Reply# 49 11/27/2007 at 21:36 (5,988 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Post# 250810 , Reply# 50 11/28/2007 at 10:41 (5,987 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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The Plot Thickens | ||
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Post# 250921 , Reply# 52 11/28/2007 at 19:37 (5,987 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
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Stevenk, A lighted panel would be nice, but I have to say that the center emblem is what caught my eye - with its 40's era lettering. I still have fired this one up... waiting to get a new power cable (the current one is a bit scary). Does yours restart if you close the door? Have you tried to push two buttons at once so that none are fully depressed? Don't know if that would work, but it might be worth a try. An owner's manual would be cool! | ||
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