Thread Number: 1495
Unimatic Motor Start Switch
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Post# 59608   3/9/2005 at 23:11 (6,958 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Glen this should help when you start working on your Unimatic with the bad motor start switch.

You need to turn the washer over on its side, remove the bottom cross brace, then support the entire mechanism from underneath with a bucket or other object.

Then...


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Post# 59614 , Reply# 1   3/9/2005 at 23:46 (6,958 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
Hmm, could be some difficulty getting the motor bell off while the mechanism is still in place under the machine if there isn't much room to whack on it.

Should the carbon facing and rubber pump seal be disassembled and cleaned? They'll be reusable?

What's a good lube for the start switch plunger?

I recall Kennywhy had trouble with a noisy fan. Use of Loctite on the impeller screw was recommended, as well as tightening securely as possible.


Post# 59626 , Reply# 2   3/10/2005 at 08:50 (6,957 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Hi Glenn,

There is plenty of room under the machine to wack the motor end bell.

Should the carbon facing and rubber pump seal be disassembled and cleaned? They'll be reusable? .
You have no choice you have to reuse it, I have, sometimes they are bad, but most of the time they are ok. Just wipe it off and put some zoom spout oil on the carbon seal (side facing the pump housing).

What's a good lube for the start switch plunger?
Get some good automative lithium grease.

Use of Loctite on the impeller screw was recommended
Its not recommend, its REQUIRED! I was going to mention that later in the reassembly process. Loctite comes in two forms. Get the weaker version that can be removed with handtools, not torch necessary.


The most important thing to remember is you have to support the entire mechansim, otherwise its just hanging by its rubber support and this could deform it or worse, rip it if it hangs for too long. Besure to get sometime tall enough to have the mechansim support in the center.


Post# 59686 , Reply# 3   3/10/2005 at 19:13 (6,957 days old) by gregm ()        
start switch or capacitor ??

Maybe one of my uni's has the same problem, I tried it out last summer and although it did run for about half a minute, smoke started pouring out from underneath, I shut it off right away, I assumed it is/was the capacitor, but I should probably look at this "start switch plunger" on mine as well ????? These pictures as to how to fix and get to it are VERY helpful. Thanks Robert !!!!!!!!!

Post# 59752 , Reply# 4   3/11/2005 at 12:38 (6,956 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        
Mechanical Seal

swestoyz's profile picture
Robert,

That seal looks like something I may be able to get you guys through Grainger. What is the ID/OD and thickness of that seal (shaft dia) - thanks!

Ben


Post# 59759 , Reply# 5   3/11/2005 at 14:11 (6,956 days old) by gregm ()        
make it TWO Ben ..........

I will take one two Ben and pay for the item plus shipping ??
It can't be to expensive right ??
thanks --gregm


Post# 59761 , Reply# 6   3/11/2005 at 14:35 (6,956 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
I'll see about getting some measurements this weekend.


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