Thread Number: 16272
GE Filter-Flow Mechanical Question
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Post# 270740   3/19/2008 at 15:40 (5,853 days old) by pturo (Syracuse, New York)        

I opened up the back of the 56 or 57 Filter Flow and everything is in really good conditon, not a speck of rust except on the leveling legs.

I plugged her in on spin and she hummed, things turned, like the pulley and the belt and such, no offensive screeches or smells of burning wires or belts.

Does this washer spin while empty, or does it need some weight to press in down on a clutch pad or something? All in all it was a healthy sound, just no spinning.

I will have to do a water agitate test next. Strangest pump placement and driver I have ever seen. The pump is mounted to the tub and is driven by a rubber looking slotted flywheel between the motor pulley and the pump pulley. I looked intact.

Any help would be appreciated since so far, I only speak Maytag.

Phil





Post# 270746 , Reply# 1   3/19/2008 at 16:14 (5,853 days old) by gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)        

For what its worth the GE Repair-Master says: Does not spin-
Causes:
Broken Belt
Inoperative Controls
Jammed Pump
Inoperative Transmission
Open Circuit in harness
Inoperative motor
Male prong(s) on Cycle Control not making contact with female connector(s) in controle receptacle.
Basket Hub jammed

I know what you mean with the pump attached to the outer-tub it is a different looking critter! That "rubber looking slotted flywheel" is called a "flexible-coupling" and you are right, that is strange as well.
At some point I will have to do a restoration on my "last year" solid-tub FF so I am glad to share information with someone who is going down the same path.

If you need more info. from my Repair-Master just let me know. (Contact "Gansky" and he can put you in touch with me).

Our friend Robert Perdue here in Roanoke is an experienced appliance repair person and has owned a few solid-tub FF's over the years. He says after sitting unused for long periods of time it is normal for them to "leak like a sieve" until all the rubber (pump and related) parts loosen up and expand. So use lots of hot water and allow some time before you go on a goose-chase trying to track them down. Just expect it to be "unseaworthy" for a few runs, and have it near a floor drain if possible. Of course, if the tub boot is shot---thats a whole different story.


Post# 270749 , Reply# 2   3/19/2008 at 16:27 (5,853 days old) by pturo (Syracuse, New York)        

Thanks,Gyrofoam!

Post# 270753 , Reply# 3   3/19/2008 at 16:33 (5,853 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
wait a minute, is the transmission pulley turning counterclockwise via the belt/motor but the tub is not moving???

Is there a water save button on the control panel? If so set the dial to wash and pull it out, press the water saver button and the washer should start to agitate, does the agitator go back and forth?


Post# 270789 , Reply# 4   3/19/2008 at 18:31 (5,852 days old) by pturo (Syracuse, New York)        

Dear Robert,
Yes, it has a water saver toggle switch and the tranny spins on the belt provided by the motor. I haven't tried to get it to agitate, as it is not close to a water source, but is this a timed or a meter fill machine? Hence, can I fool it into agitation without filling it? It is a 1957 two speed machine looks exactly like the 1957 dryer you posted in the museaum section. I hope to get it home soon, but it is a heavy b****.

The rubber drain hose was split and had a hole really close to the pump connection behind the back panel, so I am hoping that someome saw it leaking and left it for dead after and bought the 20 year old Maytags that are now in the house.

I am encouraged by the condition of the mechanics, looks more like a 70's or 80's machine inside, topside and tubside and outertubside. Great lighted control panel. Porcelain top in excellent conditon. Non porcelian 3 sided cabinet yellowed and blotchy, but no rust.

Any diagnostic tips and tricks would be appreciated!

Phil


Post# 270797 , Reply# 5   3/19/2008 at 18:54 (5,852 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Yes don't put any water in it yet. Plug the machine in and put the dial to a wash time like 8 or 10. Pull the dial out and the water valve solenoid(s) will buzz, then PRESS and hold the Water Saver Button for one second and the washer will begin to agitate (meaning the motor will turn the belt in a clockwise direction). See what it does and let us know.

Post# 270808 , Reply# 6   3/19/2008 at 19:42 (5,852 days old) by pturo (Syracuse, New York)        

Thanks again, Robert, that will be my next diagnostic when I get over to my sisters house again this week.

Post# 270942 , Reply# 7   3/20/2008 at 12:06 (5,852 days old) by spinout (Phoenix)        

Can the outer tub be moved by hand? Sounds like the spin clutch spring isn't grabbing the spin tube or the tub is frozen.

Post# 270973 , Reply# 8   3/20/2008 at 14:28 (5,852 days old) by pturo (Syracuse, New York)        
Great NEWS!

I tried what Robert suggested above and it agitated and spun. It works!
Thanks for the trick, Robert. I did not know the suds return stoped the action of spin and agitate, and you can engage it by pressing again. Must be some kind of electro/magnetic clutch, like on an autombile compressor.
The spin was a little wanky and loud, but the machine was not level at the time and quiteted down when I held it level, somewhat but got up to high speed!

I wish I could find the chrome bar for the front.


Post# 270980 , Reply# 9   3/20/2008 at 14:58 (5,852 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
That is totally fabulous Philip, now get some really hot water into the outer tub (use a hose connected to the sink) and let the filter-flow system pump it up into the wash tub (setting the dial to a wash time again and pressing the water saver button). Then spin it out and connect the washer to water. Give it a full test and let us know what you find.

Post# 270994 , Reply# 10   3/20/2008 at 16:13 (5,852 days old) by pturo (Syracuse, New York)        

I can hardly wait to do the water test using your tip #2.

My other question is: Does the machine free stand without the outer cabinet attached. Can I remove the outer cabinet and send it to autobody shop for painting without disassembling the entire machine? It looks like the machine is on a sort of an independant frame.



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