Maytag A208

All of the ideas listed above are all accurate possibilities.

Personally, I would start with the easiest and cheapest route.

Remove the motor and carriage, and clean and re-grease the sliding track. Overtime the grease turns hard and sliding carriage gets hung up. It would be a very good idea to get new glide and spring kit (part# 20500) to replace the springs, glides, rollers, ect for the carriage.

Replace the belts. They're probably glazed from slipping due to the slow agitation.

The water pump bearing may be starting to seize up. Even though it isn't stated in the manual, you can actually oil the bearing. While looking at the pump at eye level, you'll see a flat head screw in the middle that looks like it has no business being there. Remove the screw and squirt some turbine oil in the hole. I did this to my A490 and it help immensely. If you need a new pump, get one off of ebay for $16 (part # 202203). It's a lot cheaper than the $70+ that a parts place now wants. Whirlpool has jacked the hell out of the prices on these parts (Whirlpool recently bought out Maytag).

The brake package probably needs to be replaced. However, you can put a teaspoon of Maytag transmission oil in the brake package and it'll quiet it down. If the brake linings are worn all the way down, this won't work. Part# for the brake package is 201190

Another possibility on your poor water extraction is a plugged siphon valve. I replaced mine 2 weeks ago since the hard water deposits clogged it up and prevented the water extracting fast enough. If you don't hear the unmistakable "wooshing" sound right when it goes into the spin cycle, the siphon is probably plugged. Part # for the siphon is 206638. I also found some lint plugging up the lower fitting of the tub where the water exits the tub to the pump.

Shop around the internet for prices, they do vary. I have found that some parts places have the identical price of some internet sites, so it�s worth asking their price over the phone to save you a trip.


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Post# 273282 4/1/2008 at 10:09 (5,861 days old) by stumped ()
Checkrate/Likes Our clothes washer has become tired. The agitate cycle activates, but the agitator moves very slowly. I note that it does seem to speed up a little by the end of the cycle (regular cycle). I'm not sure, but I think the spin cycle may be slower also, the clothes seem to be a little wetter at end of cycle. Also, perhaps related, the brake has screamed upon braking for a long time. Any ideas?? We have had it since new and would like it to outlast us!

Post# 273287 , Reply# 1 4/1/2008 at 11:40 (5,861 days old) by pturo (Syracuse, New York)
Checkrate/Likes It sounds like it needs new belts. One to the drive mechanism and one to the polypump, which keeps proper tension on the motor sled for spinning and clutching and draining. Easy to replace from the bottom of machine if you tip it on it's back. Use only genuine Maytag belts and replace them both, they are designed to slip at precisely the right time and act as a clutch. It can be done with no tools since the motor sled slides forward when pushed with the hand. Good luck

Post# 273326 , Reply# 2 4/1/2008 at 16:52 (5,861 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)
Checkrate/Likes John, slow spin for a bad tranny? I wonder if it could be a worn or broken motor carriage spring or a bunged up carriage? Bobby in Boston

Post# 273363 , Reply# 3 4/1/2008 at 20:12 (5,861 days old) by qsd-dan (West)
Checkrate/Likes All of the ideas listed above are all accurate possibilities. Personally, I would start with the easiest and cheapest route. Remove the motor and carriage, and clean and re-grease the sliding track. Overtime the grease turns hard and sliding carriage gets hung up. It would be a very good idea to get new glide and spring kit (part# 20500) to replace the springs, glides, rollers, ect for the carriage. Replace the belts. They're probably glazed from slipping due to the slow agitation. The water pump bearing may be starting to seize up. Even though it isn't stated in the manual, you can actually oil the bearing. While looking at the pump at eye level, you'll see a flat head screw in the middle that looks like it has no business being there. Remove the screw and squirt some turbine oil in the hole. I did this to my A490 and it help immensely. If you need a new pump, get one off of ebay for $16 (part # 202203). It's a lot cheaper than the $70+ that a parts place now wants. Whirlpool has jacked the hell out of the prices on these parts (Whirlpool recently bought out Maytag). The brake package probably needs to be replaced. However, you can put a teaspoon of Maytag transmission oil in the brake package and it'll quiet it down. If the brake linings are worn all the way down, this won't work. Part# for the brake package is 201190 Another possibility on your poor water extraction is a plugged siphon valve. I replaced mine 2 weeks ago since the hard water deposits clogged it up and prevented the water extracting fast enough. If you don't hear the unmistakable "wooshing" sound right when it goes into the spin cycle, the siphon is probably plugged. Part # for the siphon is 206638. I also found some lint plugging up the lower fitting of the tub where the water exits the tub to the pump. Shop around the internet for prices, they do vary. I have found that some parts places have the identical price of some internet sites, so it�s worth asking their price over the phone to save you a trip.

Post# 273385 , Reply# 4 4/1/2008 at 21:47 (5,861 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)
Checkrate/Likes *A208* I have an A208 and love it. Even though it is old, it will out-wash anything available today and outlast it too. The easiest thing in the world are the belts. If yours are original, it's probably time to replace them anyway. I think they are about $23.00 a pair and their replacement takes almost 6 minutes. The motor is in the front left corner of the washer, and the pump is in the front right corner. The motor is on a spring-loaded sliding mount that automatically keeps the belts properly tensioned, if they are in good shape. To replace the belts, unplug the machine and turn off the water valves for safety. Pull the machine forward and tip it back to about 45 degrees or so. Make sure it won't fall. This tilting will cause the motor to slide back in its mount and release tension on the belts. Just slip the old belts off and put the new ones on, making sure to put the correct belt on the correct pulley and. If absolutely necessary, it's easy to remove the front panel if the bottom lip is in the way of changing the belts. Just unscrew the two screws toward the bottom of the front panel and lift up and forward. The top of the front panel is held to the top of the washer with 2 clips. As you lift the bottom of the front panel out and up in a rotating motion, the clips will disengage. While the front is open, look for signs of any leaks of water or oil. Make sure the tube is connected to the bleach dispenser (obvious but easy to forget). Another reason for slow running is very easy. Make sure the agitation speed selector is set to Normal, not Gentile. With the washer running the normal cycle (not permanent press) press the Gentile button and the motor should slow down. Press the Normal button and it should speed up. Hope this helps, and feel free to ask more questions and let us know how it turns out. Dave

Post# 273811 , Reply# 5 4/4/2008 at 19:21 (5,858 days old) by stumped ()
Checkrate/Likes Thanks to all of you. Here is an update. Replaced both belts, no change. Removed and cleaned 'sled', rollers and springs, no change. During this process I found that if I pulled lightly back on the motor (tightening the motor drive belt) the agitator sped up to normal operating speed. I have checked the belt tension per Maytag directions and it is correct. Now what?? Replace springs? Still stumped, sort of.

Post# 273822 , Reply# 6 4/4/2008 at 20:46 (5,858 days old) by oldwasherguy (Ladson SC)
Checkrate/Likes 1 put a third spring on the right side of the slide,the oil has thickend due to age,that will bring it up to normal speed

Post# 274121 , Reply# 7 4/7/2008 at 07:15 (5,856 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)
Checkrate/Likes Just replacing the springs and lubing the rubber carriage wheels should do it. The kit is fairly cheap, too. Bobby in Boston

Post# 274122 , Reply# 8 4/7/2008 at 07:36 (5,856 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)
Checkrate/Likes *If pulling back on the sled* makes things work normally, then the sled kit - new rollers and springs - is worth it. I've seen rollers "flatten" over time and springs do lose their tension. Maytag designed the belts and springs to work together, permitting a high degree of mechanical "loss" under starting load. One other thing which is easy to check while you're at it - been mentioned already by qsd-dan, but definitely worth the 30 seconds effort - lubing that poly-pump bearing. I won't insult your intelligence by asking if you've noticed the spinning transmission and counterweight...just mention that the last time I worked on a Maytag, my niece let her kids charge through the laundry room, dispite my stern injunctions. I am so paranoid, I'd already tripped the circuit breaker, and a good thing too - when I got back from a quick trip for belts, one kid had her head in the machine room of the A108 while the other had plugged it in and was turning the dial... With strangers, you wonder sometimes. With my family, you know, you just know. Oh, 'nother possibility: If the floor is not level and the 'Tag is tilted too far in the wrong direction, she may not be getting the tension she needs. Gravity, like water, always wins.