Thread Number: 16498
Maytag A 210 leak!! |
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Post# 273817 , Reply# 4   4/4/2008 at 20:16 (5,862 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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I'm not familiar with your model (it's just a little too new). I am, however, familiar with the previous generation, which is the same as yours from the lid down. If your model has a bleach dispenser (in the front left corner under the lid) be sure to reconnect it before you reattach the front panel. I forgot to reconnect the bleach dispenser tube on my A208 once and it spilled a little water on the floor. Your leak is probably from the place described above, it's pretty common. The bleach dispenser is just easy to forget on reassembly and can then cause a small leak. I love Maytag and Chambers, Dave |
Post# 274171 , Reply# 5   4/7/2008 at 14:16 (5,859 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)   |   | |
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What's going on unclejim? Did you diagnose the leak? Bobby in Boston |
Post# 274773 , Reply# 7   4/11/2008 at 21:21 (5,855 days old) by unclejim ()   |   | |
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bump!! |
Post# 274863 , Reply# 8   4/12/2008 at 18:14 (5,854 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)   |   | |
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You are correct. That is a antisyphon injector. Water pressure expands that rubber valve against the sleeve. When the rubber gets too old or deformed it won't seal right and leak.Your injector assy comes in three pieces. I highly recommend you replace all three as 1 or 2 pieces have been revised. 203015 Nozzle 216201 Valve 22213057 Sleeve The sleeve now has a nifty little 'box' above the air vents to catch dribbles. The nozzle slips inside the black rubber 'valve'. Remember to tuck the lip of the valve over the flange on the nozzle. By the way, your washer was born in Newton in June, 1981. Good luck. |
Post# 274864 , Reply# 9   4/12/2008 at 18:24 (5,854 days old) by unclejim ()   |   | |
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bobbie, volvo guy, and red-- thanks so much for your time--i'm on my way to eBay in search of parts--will up-date unclejim |
Post# 274868 , Reply# 10   4/12/2008 at 19:19 (5,854 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)   |   | |
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Post# 275111 , Reply# 12   4/14/2008 at 18:37 (5,852 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)   |   | |
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One thing to check is the condition of the damper pads. I've seen many a Maytag owner face the consequences of not paying attention to these. These pads are glued to the baseframe underneath the aluminum damper (like a upsidedown bowl with the three tub support arms attached.) These pads allow the tub mech to move around during spin without transferring vibration to the base. You should be able move the whole tub assy with minimal effort. If it takes alot of effort to move the tub to the side, then it's time to lightly lube the pads with Maytag Polylube. Otherwise, the pads dry out and then come off and then it's metal on metal and a potentially expensive Damper&Pad Job. RCD |
Post# 275175 , Reply# 13   4/15/2008 at 00:53 (5,852 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 275225 , Reply# 14   4/15/2008 at 10:55 (5,851 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)   |   | |
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Remove the two bolts that hold the top down. Take off the three nuts that secure the springs to the base. (first note how much eye bolt is sticking thru the nut so that you can cinch them back when putting the nut back on.) Take a soft wood block (two-two by four pieces) and postion under the trans pulley. sit washer back down and the blocks will raise the mech just enough to expose the pads (there should be three). Lube the pads lightly with PolyLube (P/N 203959 for a 3oz. jar). Reassemble. It's easiest to start the nuts on the back eyebolts first, then pull the tub forward to start the front nut. Then tighten down but not overtighten! Too loose and the tub flops around. Too tight and the mech mashes down on the pads and shortens their life and the washer shakes. (remember noting how much eyebolt was showing thru before you started?). If tightened evenly, your tub should be centered as you look down thru the lid. If all goes well, you've just lubed your pads, something ALL Maytags of decent age will eventually need. Good luck. RCD |