|
Thread Number: 16746
Running a dryer on 110 volts? |
[Down to Last] |  |
Post# 276501 4/23/2008 at 17:00 (5,837 days old) by volvoguy87  (Cincinnati, OH) |
||
I have a Maytag DE308 that I have never fired up. I have no access to a dryer outlet, so I would like to run it on 110 volts. Does anyone out in AW land know how to rewire the dryer so it will run on 110? Any recommendations on things to check on this type of Maytag if it hasn't been run in at least over a year? Thanks a bunch, Dave | ||
|
|
Post# 276510 , Reply# 1 4/23/2008 at 18:06 (5,836 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
||
yes. But You don't have to rewire the dryer. Take a HEAVY DUTY air-condtioner extension cord that handles at least 20a. Cut off the female end. Fit it with a 220v 30a dryer outlet that mathces the configuration of your cord. Now the hard part. Neutral to neutral. Hot to prong that goes to MOTOR AND TIMER. Now the OTHER side of the heater will probably be the RED terminal on the terminal block. Figure out which prong on the cord feeds that terminal. Wire the outlet such that that this is fed a neutral. Clear as mud? Write to me and I'll make you such an extension cord that is non-invasive to the dryer. Or I can give more specific details! Trick is not to blow fuses by making sure the proper terminal that is the second hot gets fed a neutral. I made one for GadgetGary, and will try to post a pic if I have it. | ||
|
Post# 276511 , Reply# 2 4/23/2008 at 18:11 (5,836 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
||
|
| ||
|
Post# 276562 , Reply# 3 4/24/2008 at 06:20 (5,836 days old) by gadgetgary (Bristol,CT) |
||
Extension cord | ||
|
Post# 276564 , Reply# 4 4/24/2008 at 06:32 (5,836 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
||
|
Thanks Gary. For that one I bought a 220v A/C extenstion cord and replaced the male plug as well as the female end. This was to ensure the gauge was thick enough and it can handle the required wattage. Polarity is CRUCIAL. In a 220v dryer in ths country the frame of the machine was allowed to be grounded through the neutral conductor. This CAN NOT be fed a hot/live/active or it will be a jolting experience and/or blow fuses if that is actually miswired. I actually put a bit of green electrical tape on the side of the receptacle indicating which "hole" (that is normally hot when using 220v) gets a neutral. In this way with each subesequnet dryer that comes into the house, I can ensure the proper polarity and that the heater gets 110v, since flex/line cords are installed on-site and may have the (two)hots reversed (from what is proper and needed to run 110v). If your plug and cord has 4 conductors that is great. Otherwise the ground(earth) will have to run through the neutral or a separate conductor. This is accomplished by a grounding "bar" that attaches the frame of the appliance to the neutral conductor at the teminal block. | ||
|
Post# 276565 , Reply# 5 4/24/2008 at 06:53 (5,836 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
||
|
| ||
|
Post# 276626 , Reply# 7 4/24/2008 at 18:35 (5,835 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
||
|
yes your system works too (and would work for Dave). That was my orginal configuration, which evolved to the "conversion" extension cord. The dryer remains intact (complete with 220v cord) and can be used on either voltage. In the set-up where used, there is one 220v 30a dryer outlet and three dryers. So with my cpnversion extension cord, any of the three dryers can get the 220v for a quicky dry, and any of the three can be used on an ordinary 120v appliance crcuit. The benefit to me is that this allows two to run at once in any permutation. | ||
|
Post# 276629 , Reply# 8 4/24/2008 at 18:53 (5,835 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
||
|
Here's Tom's idea said differently. Remove the ground strap that connects the frame of the machine to the middle terminal of the terminal block that will be the white (neutral wire). Add the white wire form the etnediosn cord to thiis middle terminal Put the black wire on the terminal where the black wire is. Move the red wire over to the white wire in the middle of the terminal block. (if the black is on the left, the red is on the right or vice-versa). If you prefer not to move the red wire over, simply make a "jumper" to move current from the white middle terminal to the red wire on one of the ends of the terminal block. If-a no worky, put the black from the heavy-duty extension cord to the red on the dryer and jump the END terminal that does not have a supply wire to the middle/neutral post. RECAP of theory All but the heater works on 110 v BLACK (hot/live/active) AND WHITE (neutral) WIRES). The heater normally gets 220v (BLACK AND RED) to give the heater 110V it also needs to get BLACK AND WHITE! ------------------------------------------------------ UNRELATED: GREEN Ground/earthing wire was traditionally used here. RED hot/active/live is still currently used here in certain cases, with black being more common. 10% of the men electrical installers were found to be red-green color blind. So installers now have a striped green/yellow conductor to to help them differentiate between the ground and the hot leads/wires. | ||
|
Post# 276634 , Reply# 9 4/24/2008 at 19:11 (5,835 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
||
|
| ||
|
Post# 276639 , Reply# 10 4/24/2008 at 20:20 (5,835 days old) by gadgetgary (Bristol,CT) |
||
|
Tomturbomatic | ||
|
Post# 276640 , Reply# 11 4/24/2008 at 20:40 (5,835 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH) |
||
|
Thinking... | ||
| Forum Index: |
| Other Forums: |
|
|
|
|
|
Comes to the Rescue!
