Thread Number: 17966
GE 3-speed clutch...
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Post# 292797   7/26/2008 at 21:18 (5,723 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA)        

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Hey guys,

Finally had some time to do some work on the GE. Thanks to Ben (swestoyz) I was able to learn a bit about how the 3-speed clutch works. I pulled the machine out, removed the backing, and did some testing to see what the clutch was doing. (I included a picture of Ben's clutch since I don't have a picture of mine. They are the same though.)

I can't say that I totally understand how this mechanism works. It looks like the solenoids only engage when a slower agitation/spin speed is needed. I know that, generally speaking, GE washers would initially engage in slow agitation and then normal once the tub has indexed. Mine goes right to normal speed.

Medium agitation works just fine on this machine as well as normal/fast. Looking at the solenoids attached to the clutch, I realized that only one seems to energize (medium). The solenoid on the left in the picture seems to be dead. It does nothing. humph!

The good news is the rubber tips are in very good shape so perhaps the slower speeds weren't used very much to begin with. The issue now is going to be where to find another solenoid or get this one repaired. I'd sure love to have 3 speeds again!!!

I'm open to any suggestions! Thanks guy!

Jon





Post# 292819 , Reply# 1   7/26/2008 at 23:45 (5,723 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

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Hey Jon -

If you are in need of that one solenoid - I certainly can send it out to you. I have no desire to get 3 speeds working again - so if it is of use to you, the yay!

Bem


Post# 292822 , Reply# 2   7/27/2008 at 00:24 (5,723 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA)        
Ben

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You've made my frickin day!!! You know I need that delicate slow speed...hehe. Shoot me an email at jonshinn@comcast.net . I'll send you all my info. Name your price too ok.

Thanks again so much!!!

Jon


Post# 292854 , Reply# 3   7/27/2008 at 10:58 (5,722 days old) by gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)        

First thing is that this clutch goes directly to the selected speed.
This is really a four-speed clutch and earlier models used all four speeds for agitation.
With neither solnoid energized it goes directly to high speed.
With one soloniod energized it goes to medium-high,
With the other solonoid energized it goes to medium-low.
With both solonoids energized it goes to extra-low speed.
GE only used three of the potential speeds on the machines in the later sixties and into the seventies.


Post# 292856 , Reply# 4   7/27/2008 at 11:13 (5,722 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA)        
Steve,

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That's very interesting. I remember someone mentioning having a 4-speed model sometime way back on here. So I guess this machine uses the 3 faster speeds (high, medium-high, and medium-low)?

Does a 2 speed clutch work pretty much the same? Just has one solenoid?

The only thing that confuses me are the machines going directly into the selected speed. Both of my grandmothers had GE's at one point. One had this 3-speed model and the other had a mid-80's Hotpoint 2-speed model. Both of them agitated on gentle while the tub indexed. Once the tub locked they lurched into normal speed. If medium was selected it went directly to that speed (no slow speed).

Robert's video of his '58 solid tub does exactly what I'm talking about. It's in the General Electric wing of the cyber-museum.

Detergent being Dispensed (1.3mb)

Now...where can I find a 4 speed machine??? hehe

Thanks Steve!

Jon


Post# 292859 , Reply# 5   7/27/2008 at 11:35 (5,722 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)        
Talk about a war horse

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That piece of artillery looks like it came out of WW II. Leave it to GE. Priceless & Beautiful.

Hope you find your 4 speeder, Jon.


Post# 292862 , Reply# 6   7/27/2008 at 12:04 (5,722 days old) by gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)        
Jon

Hi Sugar! I'm just dictating information to you from a real expert---John Lefever!
The tub indexing is just the brake locking in place.
The clutch is completely independent of the brake or tranny.
The two speed clutch goes to full speed when the carrier-plate picks up enough speed to---- engage the clutch-shoes -------to lock-out low speed.

You missed your chance-----John has a 65 four-speed right here in the warehouse!
Hugs to you and Tony!


Post# 292997 , Reply# 7   7/27/2008 at 21:29 (5,722 days old) by fltcoils (South Bend, Indiana)        

Think of it as a stereo. Right channel out. First determine if it is the solenoid or the control/timer. Switch wires with the other solenoid and verify .

The solenoid doesn't work? OK Check the electrical part, the coil for good circuit continuity. Test the ohms for the working solenoid, then the broke one. The working one is probably between 500 to 2000 ohms. If the coil has the same ohms, then it probably is not an electrical problem.

Broke one ohms is ok? Then the mechanical part, the armature is stuck. disassemble the armature slug (like in a door bell clapper, just a bar inside the solenoid probably) and clean any crap preventing movement. relube with key graphite, lightly.

The broke one is 1,000,000 ohms or some such sky high value? It is probably either a corroded solder joint or a broken wire. Look at both leads and see where the solneoid coil wire(varnished bare wire called "magnet wire") wraps around the connector lugs. If the joint is corroded, then resolder, if the wire is broken then...

broken, corrosion has eaten the wire where it connects to the lug. If you are lucky the wire is the "finish" part of the winding, and comes from the outside of the turns on the coil bobbin. Simply unwind 1 or 2 turns, reinsulate the bobbin and connect the now longer magnet wire to the lug (sandpaper protective varnish off wire to make a good soldered connection). This is what happened to my hamilton dryer's gas valve solenoid. A worse case is if the broken wire is the "start" lead, which goes to the center of the coil bobbin windings. :( in that case you have to either carefully splice to the remaining bit, or rewind the solenoid.

Rewinding is not hard, you don't need special tools or practice. To do this you measure the diameter of the magnet wire (calipers, micrometer $20@harbor freight etc.), and get replacement magnet wire @ radio shack/mouser/msc/nework of the same or smaller diameter. Then unwind the old, and wind on the new. Solder leads. It doesn't hurt to protect the one end with teflon tape as it exits from the middle, so the windings don't rub it badly.

that's it.


Post# 293021 , Reply# 8   7/28/2008 at 00:02 (5,722 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA)        
Steve,

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Geez!!! I thought I had seen every machine in that darn warehouse!!! You know I would have taken it. Oh well... I'll just have to take your word on the whole indexing tub thing until I get mine fixed. Then we'll see what happens I guess. As long as it works and gets the stains out of my "manties" I'm happy. :-)

fltcoils,

You make it sound so easy! *grin* If I don't get another solenoid from Ben then I'll have to take the route you suggested. I thought about swapping wires like you said so I may try it. I was too scared to screw something up. If it comes to doing more than that I may see about an electrician who wants to mess around with it or something.

Either way I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Jon


Post# 293023 , Reply# 9   7/28/2008 at 00:20 (5,722 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA)        
Another example...

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This machine shifts speeds as well...

CLICK HERE TO GO TO jons1077's LINK


Post# 293093 , Reply# 10   7/28/2008 at 09:55 (5,722 days old) by gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)        

Did you visit John's Warehouse?

Post# 293223 , Reply# 11   7/28/2008 at 21:15 (5,721 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA)        
Steve,

jons1077's profile picture
Nope sure didn't...Is this the Beltsville, MD guy? I wanted to but never did schedule a good time...

Jon



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