Thread Number: 18708
Help needed: How do I replace the boot in a GE FF?
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Post# 303425   9/13/2008 at 11:42 (5,674 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        

volvoguy87's profile picture
Well, it has been a horrible past few days. First, my computer crashed and I have only barely been able to get it up and running again. I can't even upload pictures yet. Second, my grandmother's GE Filter Flo dumped its water all over the floor.
It is model #WWA8344VCLWH
And serial #LH129185G

It's not bad fill hoses or a bad water valve. I pulled out the washer and dumped a bucket of water into it while looking in the back. The water immediately poured out from the middle of the bottom of the tub above the transmission. I think it's the boot and not a rust hole in the outer tub because it just let go all at once, not a small leak that got bigger.

Thus far, I have removed the activator (4 straight vanes) and the plastic cover beneath it. I removed 2 horizontal bolts from the block at the base of the agitator shaft. There are 3 vertical bolts at the bottom of the inner tub that I assume I also have to remove, but how? They aren't conventional hex-head bolts. Do I need a special tool?

Beyond this point, how do I pull the inner tub and then what do I need to do to replace the boot?

Your assistance would be greatly appreciated so I can repair this ASAP. My parents' inclination would be to go get a BOL something and replace it, and I want o fix the FF because of its cleaning prowess.

Thank you very much,
A very frazzled Dave





Post# 303427 , Reply# 1   9/13/2008 at 12:37 (5,674 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Dave those bolts are 1/2 hex head bolts that hold down the tub. You didn't need to remove the horitzonal bolts. Just use a 1/2" wrench on those bolts. I hope the heads don't break off, so you might want to gently heat them gently first. Once those three bolts are out you can pull out the tub and replace the boot.

Post# 303431 , Reply# 2   9/13/2008 at 13:20 (5,674 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
One very grumpy GE.

volvoguy87's profile picture
As said in the title.

Post# 303432 , Reply# 3   9/13/2008 at 13:23 (5,674 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
The GE is no longer grumpy.

volvoguy87's profile picture
It has progressed to full-out pissed off!
(I was able to load pictures, yay my computer is progressing.


Post# 303433 , Reply# 4   9/13/2008 at 13:30 (5,674 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
The problem is nuts and bolts.

volvoguy87's profile picture
This is one of the 3 bolts in the bottom of the tub which is giving me so much trouble. Robert, I tried your suggestion of a 1/2 inch socket and it just didn't work. The heads of these bolts are not hex heads. There are more than 6 sides and the sides are concave, not flat. Do I need a special tool for this?

Thank you very much,
Dave


Post# 303434 , Reply# 5   9/13/2008 at 13:32 (5,674 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
Thank you.

volvoguy87's profile picture
Robert, thank you for your suggestion. I'm trying to find the thread on the GE you found recently with the bad tub boot. I think it has pictures that would help me.

Thanks bunch,
Dave


Post# 303436 , Reply# 6   9/13/2008 at 13:47 (5,674 days old) by peterh770 (Marietta, GA)        

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When mine got stuck I had to torch them to get them loose. Get them nice and hot with a propane torch and work on them with the 12 point socket. Once you have those bolts out, the tub will lift right out -- watch your back, it is a heavy and awkward lift. Then you will have access to the boot and the 2 screw clamps that secure it to the outer tub and the top of the transmission. Seems to me the boots are still available and relatively inexpensive.

Post# 303440 , Reply# 7   9/13/2008 at 14:39 (5,674 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
Success!

volvoguy87's profile picture
The 12 point socket worked like a charm. The tub is out. I have never encountered a 12 point head before and due to my eyesight, I couldn't tell what it was, covered in crud like it was. I think the boot failed, although it looks pretty ok. The bottom clamp just pulled off, I didn't even have to unscrew it. I am going to the store to try to get a boot and 2 new clamps.

Thanks,
Dave


Post# 303442 , Reply# 8   9/13/2008 at 14:49 (5,674 days old) by supersuds (Knoxville, Tenn.)        
Congrats!

supersuds's profile picture
Looks like you've saved a vintage machine from the crusher!

Post# 303448 , Reply# 9   9/13/2008 at 16:18 (5,674 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Yeah a 1/2" socket wrench will not work, you need a 1/2" combination wrench with 12 point closed end. Glad you got it out.

Here is that thread...


CLICK HERE TO GO TO unimatic1140's LINK


Post# 303457 , Reply# 10   9/13/2008 at 17:29 (5,674 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
Update.

volvoguy87's profile picture
The tub is out and the appliance shop will be ordering the boot and clamps on Monday. Hopefully it won't be too expensive.

Are there any special procedures for installing the new boot?

Thanks for your help,
Dave


Post# 303463 , Reply# 11   9/13/2008 at 17:54 (5,674 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA)        
Dave,

jons1077's profile picture
If you aren't able to find a boot and clamps I do have some extras. Let me know and I'll be happy to send them to you. I somehow ended up with three boots and two extra clamps when I was working on mine. If you have any questions please ask. I actually can say I finally have some experience here! hehe

Jon


Post# 303527 , Reply# 12   9/14/2008 at 05:48 (5,673 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

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Make sure the outer tub mating surface is clean, and rust free. I usually use a bit of sealer there.

Post# 303738 , Reply# 13   9/15/2008 at 11:34 (5,672 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
Awaiting parts pricing.

volvoguy87's profile picture
I am waiting on parts pricing right now. The original boot had no sealer, do you really think it would be necessary now? If so, should I pit it on the upper seal, the bottom one, or both. Also, what kind? I would be hesitant to use sealer if it would make removing the boot for future repairs an issue. There is some light surface rust on inside of the outer tub. It does not extend to where the boot was attached. Later, I would like to properly POR-15 the outer tub, but right now, my grandparents just need the washer up and running ASAP!

As you can see in the 1st picture, I am missing part of the optional extra rinse selector. I have the knob, but the shaft out of the switch broke. The switch is NLA from my local parts supplier. Do any of you have a spare?

Thanks a bunch,
Dave


Post# 303742 , Reply# 14   9/15/2008 at 11:48 (5,672 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA)        
Dave,

jons1077's profile picture
My outer tub had quite a bit of debris and rust caked up against the boot and clamps. Be very careful removing any debris because you never know what's in it. (I got a nasty prick off a rusty needle!) All I did was take a small wire brush like you'd use to clean a grill and scrubbed around that area and got it smoothed out. When you replace the boot and clamps you don't have to use sealant. As long as the outer tub is clean and the clamps are as tight as possible (literally till you can't turn the screw anymore) the boot should seal just fine. If you use sealant then you'd be cutting that boot off if you ever had to get to the transmission. Shouldn't be necessary.

Again, if you need a boot and clamps, I do have them.

Jon


Post# 303752 , Reply# 15   9/15/2008 at 12:59 (5,672 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
Thanks Jon.

volvoguy87's profile picture
I am waiting for a call back from 1 last place. If a new boot is not in stock in Maryland, I'll be getting in touch with you about getting one of yours. You would think a part used for over 30 years would be easier to find.

Thank you,
Dave


Post# 303769 , Reply# 16   9/15/2008 at 13:57 (5,672 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA)        
Dave,

jons1077's profile picture
True on that one. You would think they were easier to find. I actually did spot a brand new boot on ebay yesterday too. That's where I found mine. The two boots I have are used because I put the new one in my machine. They are both in very good condition though. Just shoot me an email if you need one and let me know if there's anything I can help you with.

Jon


Post# 303868 , Reply# 17   9/15/2008 at 20:18 (5,672 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
Jon, let's talk boots.

volvoguy87's profile picture
My boot looks like its intact, it's just caked in deposits and I don't know how to clean it. The bottom clamp just pulled right off, I didn't even have to loosen it. Is clamp loosening a normal issue on these after 30 years of service? If it's not too much trouble, please let me know how much you want for a good boot and clamps.

I am also sending you an email, if my computer will work...
Dave


Post# 303881 , Reply# 18   9/15/2008 at 20:58 (5,672 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA)        
Dave

jons1077's profile picture
Just sent you an email back. Looks like shipping runs about $10 and that's all you'd need to worry about. The boot and clamps are yours. Just get 'er workin again! Sounds like a cool machine and send pictures please. Just shoot me back an email and I'll try to get them out tomorrow.

Jon


Post# 303962 , Reply# 19   9/16/2008 at 08:47 (5,671 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
How to clean?

volvoguy87's profile picture
If I'm going to clean my boot and see about reusing it (since I think the clamp loosened and the boot is not damaged) how should I clean it? It has calcium deposits and similar things. The rubber is still supple.

I hate when my rubber is dirty,
Dave


Post# 303973 , Reply# 20   9/16/2008 at 09:32 (5,671 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA)        
For hard water

jons1077's profile picture
I usually soak stuff in vinegar for a while. hard water deposits will literally wipe right off if you soak it long enough and shouldn't damage the rubber boot. Just get a gallon of the cheap vinegar at your grocery store and dump it in a bucket and soak.

Post# 304003 , Reply# 21   9/16/2008 at 12:10 (5,671 days old) by xyz ()        

Volvo, all the suggestions on here are good but I would like t oadd a few of my own. I have thru trial and error replacedand repaired many of these machines boots. What I have found is that once you take a wire brush and gently scrub the boot clean, go to a dark room with it and hold it up to a 100 watt light bulb and look for tiny pin holes in the boot. Always be careful when repalcing those clamps and be sure they don't slip at ALL. Make sure you always put that little metal spacer back under the clamp. After repalceing the boot, I always mop the whole thing down with 3M brand contact cement to make sure all pin holes are filled. I also like to mop down the tub itself with contact cement to fill any rust holes. You can place a light inside tub and crawl under the machine to inspect for any pin holes in tub by looking for beams of light to come thru the holes. I fix these holes from the bottom of tub with JB WATERWELD putty. Good luck, I'm no bigtime expert on this machine but it is the 1st machine I broke out on when I started working on washers and dryers. This model will always be special to me.

Post# 304516 , Reply# 22   9/18/2008 at 22:06 (5,669 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
Update.

volvoguy87's profile picture
These GEs sure aren't built like Maytags! The pulleys, cable, and concrete weight balancing system is just wild.

I was able to fix it thanks to your suggestions. I reused the original boot, but I soaked it in vinegar for 24 hours to loosen the deposits. After cleaning the boot I reinstalled it with the original clamps (not so great). The larger lower clamp worked fine, but the top one bent as I tightened it and leaked. I spent a whopping $2.00 and got a much better upper clamp and it did not leak... Until the drain hose pulled off the pump, that is! After reinstalling the drain hose, it ran some wash and is doing well and staying dry.

How loud are GE Filter Flos supposed to be? This one is pretty loud and growley. My A208 is much quieter. Is this a sign if impending transmission or clutch failure? It has always been a little noisy and growley, but it seems louder than it was usual.

Glad to be Filter Floing again,
Dave


Post# 304517 , Reply# 23   9/18/2008 at 22:09 (5,669 days old) by tuthill ()        

Glad to hear you got it running again.

Post# 304519 , Reply# 24   9/18/2008 at 22:58 (5,669 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA)        
Dave

jons1077's profile picture
So glad you got it working!!! My filter-flo is pretty quite actually but I have noticed that the newer they get the louder they get. Mine had a transmission that was in terrible shape but it wasn't loud at all so not sure it would be that. I think it's just cause it's a little newer. Congrats on a good job!!!

Jon



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