Part for Frigidaire 1-18 (Model WC) dryer-?


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Thread Number: 18728
Part for Frigidaire 1-18 (Model WC) dryer-?

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Post# 303753 9/15/2008 at 13:10 (5,701 days old) by dustycrown ()
Checkrate/Likes I have a Frigidaire 1-18/Model WC matched set (white) that I use everyday. Unfortunately, the dryer has stopped heating. The elements are OK; we think it's the thermostat control disc -- kind of a relay, I think -- located just under the lower panel on the front of the dryer. I'm searching the internet for the part, but if anyone here has one, or knows where I can get one, that would be great! And it would save this pair, which I would hate to lose... Thanks! Sandy

Post# 303825 , Reply# 1 9/15/2008 at 17:32 (5,700 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)
Checkrate/Likes If you take the old one to a parts store with knowlegable staff, they might be able to match it up with something newer.

Post# 303831 , Reply# 2 9/15/2008 at 18:12 (5,700 days old) by dustycrown ()
Checkrate/Likes *Thanks!* Tried several local parts houses, but no luck. I did find a collection of old Frigidaire dryer parts on ebay, including FOUR of the parts I needed. They're on the way--I'll figure out what will fit our dryer (for future use), and then see if anyone here needs the parts that remain.

Post# 303834 , Reply# 3 9/15/2008 at 18:30 (5,700 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)
Checkrate/Likes Another thing to check. Another one of those 'Sure we checked that! We did, didn't we?!?!?' items is your breaker panel. I frequently see it where 1 leg of the 220v. trips or fails and leaves one leg still ok so the dryer will run but no heat. Everyone assumes that if the dryer runs, the power's ok. At least until I get them for a service charge to come out and check the power ... Just an Idea... RCD

Post# 303887 , Reply# 4 9/15/2008 at 21:10 (5,700 days old) by pdub (Portland, Oregon)
Checkrate/Likes Have you checked continuity on the heating element? I had one where it wouldn't heat but looked OK. You couldn't see a break anywhere but there was no continuity when testing both ends. I ordered and installed a new one and it works perfectly now. Best of Luck. Patrick

Post# 304081 , Reply# 5 9/16/2008 at 15:53 (5,699 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)
Checkrate/Likes I've also had those elements break, and short to ground. Part of it still glows, but it doesn't put out much heat.

Post# 304167 , Reply# 6 9/16/2008 at 21:40 (5,699 days old) by dustycrown ()
Checkrate/Likes We did check the breaker--but it's fine; wish it had been that easy! We're getting power going into the high-limit switch, but no power coming out. Plus just before the dryer quit heating, there was a load that got really, really hot and smelled scorched (certainly exceeded the 130-degree limit of the switch). The high limit switch is on the way; when we get it, if that doesn't fix things, then we'll definitely check the elements more closely. Thanks!

Post# 304256 , Reply# 7 9/17/2008 at 10:04 (5,699 days old) by lightedcontrols ()
Checkrate/Likes *the thermostats* The thermo disc under the lower front panel is most likely the culprit. Usually when they go, they expand and char. They are very hard to find. On the last three dryers that I worked on, I had to drill two new holes and I used the FSP thermostats that you can set the temps on. It might be the high limit, but if it overheated like you're saying, it could be that both discs are bad. Also check for a burned wire. I've seen lots of wires that go from the high limit thermostat to the heater burn in two. You can also replace the high limit thermo with an FSP part. you may need to make the hole larger however. Mark

Post# 304257 , Reply# 8 9/17/2008 at 10:10 (5,699 days old) by lightedcontrols ()
Checkrate/Likes *also .....* when you do get the high limit thermostat installed....check the thermodisc in lower front panel. That disc should have never let the machine get that hot, but since it did, it's probably defective too. (I don't know if I'm explaining this very clearly....I hope I am) Be very careful here, as usually when both thermostats go, they will melt the entire inside of the lint collector housing, which is just about impossible to find a replacement for. (If the heaters come back on when you install the high limit thermostat, then the thermodisc in the door panel IS defective, so don't take it for graned that the problem is solved) Mark

Post# 304670 , Reply# 9 9/19/2008 at 18:36 (5,696 days old) by dustycrown ()
Checkrate/Likes Well, we have a dilemma. We have replaced the therodisc under the front panel, but still no heat. (Before the replacement, we were not getting power through it, but now we are.) Checked the high limit; it has voltage through it, and continuity. Elements have continuity. Breaker is on, both legs. :) Any ideas where to go from here?

Post# 304703 , Reply# 10 9/19/2008 at 21:38 (5,696 days old) by lightedcontrols ()
Checkrate/Likes If all those things check ok, then check the cent switch on the motor, as it may have burned out too or may be stuck. Very rarely is it a timer problem.

Post# 304704 , Reply# 11 9/19/2008 at 21:42 (5,696 days old) by lightedcontrols ()
Checkrate/Likes *also....* check cont from the thermodisc through, to the heater wire that goes to the motor. If all else fails, check to see that there is power coming FROM the motor to the wire that goes to the thermodisc and heater.

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