Thread Number: 18924
Maytag Neptunes |
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Post# 306848 , Reply# 1   10/1/2008 at 03:48 (5,658 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)   |   | |
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The tub bearings are most likely noisy due to a inner seal failure allowing moisture into the bearing area. What can happen eventually is the spinner support will get scored and sloppy and the tub will either sieze or drop out of line and allow the spin basket to rub on the outer tub and/or the front cover and do really bad things. I can almost guarantee your machine isn't getting up to proper spin speed. Forcing grease in thru thru the weep holes is a interesting approach but you run the risk of over greasing and causing grease to enter the tub (and your washload). Bad bearings isn't the end of the road. After much experimentation, I've sucessfully replaced the bearings and seal with factory parts without even pulling the outer tub from the washer for a lot cheaper than a new outer tub assy. There's even some guy on the internet hawking a breakdown of a similar procedure provided you're mechanically inclined enough. Of course, there are caviats to this. The outer tub itself must be in good shape and if you waited too long, you may have to replace the spinner support (which isn't cheap). RCD |
Post# 307314 , Reply# 3   10/2/2008 at 21:04 (5,656 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)   |   | |
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The bearings are valid Maytag parts numbers (one is the Dependable Care spin bearing, the other is a bearing from the Amanatag design, the milkstool bearing I believe... I have part numbers anyway) and the main seal is listed in the Neptune breakdown. Most parts suppliers are only going to sell you a outer tub assy and call it good. Maybe someday, Maytag will accept the bearing change out as a "authorized" repair procedure, but until then I'll keep rebuilding outer tubs and saving otherwise good machines... As far as having a donor tub, that will work just fine as long as the tub is COMPATABLE with your model. Remember, as Neptune evolved, things changed. The inertial unbalance switch was relocated then eventually eliminated. The water level control went from a switch with a tube that entered the back of the tub right above the sump to a pressure switch mounted right on the pump itself, eliminating the hose entry hole. 4000's had a port in the top of the tub for the recirculation pump while 3000's and the 55/65/7500's didn't. Only 65/7500's had a heater, etc, etc, etc. I'm not saying you have to spend tons of money. Having a donor for parts is ALWAYS a good way to go (except it means one had to die to fix another...), but if you DO have to, there are usually alternatives to getting screwed by unreal parts prices... Sorry for the rant. It was meant as 'news you can use'... RCD |