Thread Number: 20566
MAV 9600 Stainless
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Post# 326693   1/25/2009 at 18:07 (5,540 days old) by jaytag (Atlanta)        

Ok, so here is the newest Maytag. I ve got it a part thanks to the help of all from my other thread. My issue is it will not advance from wash into rinse. I think it is the timer. They guy I got it from said he called Maytag and they said it was a belt issue when it would advance from spin drain to spin. The timer is not moving. So on each cycle the timer sticks on wash and does not advance to rinse. So I am assuming it is the timer.




Post# 326716 , Reply# 1   1/25/2009 at 20:44 (5,540 days old) by jaytag (Atlanta)        
photos

Here are some pics

Post# 326717 , Reply# 2   1/25/2009 at 20:45 (5,540 days old) by jaytag (Atlanta)        
stainless

underneath

Post# 326718 , Reply# 3   1/25/2009 at 20:46 (5,540 days old) by jaytag (Atlanta)        
more...

pics

Post# 326918 , Reply# 4   1/26/2009 at 15:25 (5,539 days old) by jaytag (Atlanta)        
Call Red Carpet Drew

Drew,

What do you think this could be? Timer? Washes fine but sticks on Rinse and does not advance drain or spin.


Post# 327009 , Reply# 5   1/26/2009 at 20:04 (5,539 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)        

redcarpetdrew's profile picture
Sorry it took so long to respond. Had a busy route today...

I agree. I'm pretty certain it's a hang up spot on the cam. I would try to verify voltage to the timer motor when it should be advancing. It's possible the motor is trying to advance but the gearing is bad. Problem is that it's one of those damn Emerson SEALED clam shell timers and almost impossible to take apart to look at it. (well, you COULD take it apart but no guarantee it'll look the same when you re-assemble...) All you CAN do is verify 110v to the timer motor... I've included a schematic for you. You should have a copy in the console next to the timer. You didn't give the full model number/serial number but I think that you should have a MAV9600EWW with a serial number that starts with 18 or higher which was an energy star unit due to the electronic temp. control. Part number on the timer s/b 22003445 which lists for $78. Your price may vary...

RCD


Post# 327042 , Reply# 6   1/26/2009 at 22:29 (5,539 days old) by jaytag (Atlanta)        
thank you thank you

sn 23321996ZZ. I will do as instructed. I appreciate the help. I put it on the side and picked up a filter flo set to work with.

Post# 327140 , Reply# 7   1/27/2009 at 13:53 (5,538 days old) by runematic (southcentral pa)        

runematic's profile picture
It could also be a bad h2o valve. Usually when the washer calls for cold for rinse, if it does not get cold h2o, no advance. This model also has a temp control board, you could check that as well. Very rarely does a bad timer not go into rinse in every cycle. Usually just a certain cycle. Just a guess without running it or being there. You never know.......

Post# 327143 , Reply# 8   1/27/2009 at 14:12 (5,538 days old) by jaytag (Atlanta)        
water valve

that is the same theory that I got from Maytag. I will look into it as well. Voltmeter to the contacts to see if it completes the circle?

Post# 327161 , Reply# 9   1/27/2009 at 16:16 (5,538 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)        

redcarpetdrew's profile picture
Maybe I should have clarified the question.

Does the machine:
A) fill and go into agitation in rinse but not advance to spin
or
B) not fill for rinse and just stall out?

Runematic is correct. I've seen the auto temp board crap out and not activate the cold water valve EVEN IF THE AUTO TEMP BUTTON IS 'OFF'. That board is controlling the valves no matter what is selected... That is the board that piggy backs on the timer. BTW the timer and the board come separately.

RCD


Post# 327209 , Reply# 10   1/27/2009 at 21:17 (5,538 days old) by jaytag (Atlanta)        
Senarios of the STAINLESS as I call it

The first time I used on Whites and it fills and mixes water based upon temp. The mixer will on warm, put in cold and then hot and then cold and then hot intermittently. I find it strange that it does that. Ok so it is full and washing, when it gets to rinse, it does not stop and drain, it keeps washing. If I lift the lid, then it will make a loud noise (the timer) and eventually it drains and spins. On Handwash, it did the same. On Colors, it went through wash and then drain, spin and fill with rinse water, then agitate, but it did not drain and spin for the final spin. It just agitated through to the end. Strange.

Post# 327224 , Reply# 11   1/27/2009 at 22:06 (5,538 days old) by coldspot66 (Plymouth, Mass)        

Sounds like the timer is skipping the pause between rinse agitate and spin/drain. Lifting the lid causes the machine to pause and reverse direction to spin. Needs a new timer. Very noisy timers, I might add. Disappointing for any brand, especially Maytag and it's norge/herrin machines.

Post# 327336 , Reply# 12   1/28/2009 at 11:38 (5,537 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)        

redcarpetdrew's profile picture
I agree. As Coldspot66 said, the pause built into the run contact that stops the motor to allow the reverse direction to kick in sounds fused. I see it every so often in the old dependable care washers as well. Any washer with a reversing motor to spin/pump out can have it happen... As far as noise, again I say, damn those Emerson sealed unit timers. It seems to be a trait with them. There is a variant of those style timers in the MAH3000,4000 and 5500A models that makes that same horrid 'crunch' noises as it advances. The below pic is of one of those timers, similar to Jaytags. You can see the temp board that 'piggybacks' on the backside of the timer.

RCD


Post# 327446 , Reply# 13   1/28/2009 at 20:26 (5,537 days old) by jaytag (Atlanta)        
timer circuit board photo

R47 on the bottom is dark brown, this may be trouble. I am going to go deeper.

Post# 327447 , Reply# 14   1/28/2009 at 20:49 (5,537 days old) by jaytag (Atlanta)        
Timer apart

found a picture of the same burnt timer on google. Mine looks exactly like it. So new timer I assume or can it be fixed?

Post# 327448 , Reply# 15   1/28/2009 at 20:50 (5,537 days old) by jaytag (Atlanta)        
sorry about the blurry pics

timer

Post# 327451 , Reply# 16   1/28/2009 at 21:09 (5,537 days old) by jaytag (Atlanta)        
timer info

upon looking at the wiring diagram, the metal contact is charred and it looks as if it deals with Super Wash, which does not work so right on. And I cannot figure out the other two. The three I think it relates to are 32 OR, 16 YL and 20 RD. This looks like the contact that is charred. Drew, is it possible to sand down the contact?

Post# 327492 , Reply# 17   1/29/2009 at 01:33 (5,537 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)        
You can try... not like you'll break it...

redcarpetdrew's profile picture
You can try to sand it but it'll be for intellectual curiosity. I'd look at replacing the timer for a permanent repair. One of the things Maytag started doing with the later schematics is to NOT include a timer cam chart to help identify when cams are doing their thing. They are also starting to not include a wiring diagram, just a schematic. Am I just a dinosaur in this field that I miss a cam chart?
Did you ever see if the board was feeding power to the timer motor for advance?

RCD


Post# 327499 , Reply# 18   1/29/2009 at 05:26 (5,537 days old) by jaytag (Atlanta)        
I jumped into the timer

I did not check the board. I am going to clean the contact, put it back together and then run the checks, then if still the issue, I ll go the timer route. I sure hope it is not the board as well. That would be 140 for the board and 78 for the timer....yikes. Thank you for the info and will keep you posted.

Post# 327517 , Reply# 19   1/29/2009 at 08:29 (5,536 days old) by ttuee2006 ()        
Burnt Timer

The timer in my FilterFlo was burnt like that. Just happened to be on the reversing cam too, so every time it was supposed to drain, it wouldn't pause and tried to reverse at once causing the breaker to blow.

I took pix when i pulled the timer apart, and managed to repolish all the contacts. Been working like a champ since.

The link below shows a much more detailed photo set of what was wrong.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO ttuee2006's LINK



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