Thread Number: 20647
Leak or Damp Basement?
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Post# 327970   1/31/2009 at 17:21 (5,535 days old) by autowasherfreak ()        

I was cleaning my washer last week after the last load washed and the paint started peeling. Do I have a leak, or could be from the damp basement? I haven't seen any signs of a leak.






Post# 327974 , Reply# 1   1/31/2009 at 18:45 (5,535 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
Moisture is the cause of rust and such paint peeling, so if you do not have a leak, water has to be coming from somewhere.

Dampness will cause this sort of damage, and have seen it on ironers,appliances, and other painted metal objects located in damp/humid conditions. This is probably one reason many like stainless steel for surfaces instead.

You can stop the problem from getting worse, by scraping or otherwise removing all loose paint and rust, applying a "Restoleum" type product, then applying a coat or two of applinace paint.

Sooner or later you should address the dampness, otherwise the problem will likely occur again.

L.


Post# 327985 , Reply# 2   1/31/2009 at 19:32 (5,535 days old) by ronhic (Canberra, Australia)        
I have seen....

ronhic's profile picture
....similar damage before. Mainly inline with the lowest part of the glass (or the detergent drawer) and normally at the first crease/join in the bottom of the machine. European Whirlpools are horrible for it.

There need not be a leak as such or any room dampness for it to happen.

You may find that there are a few 'drips' when you first open the door after a load and this is normal. However when you are finished and if you push the door to (but not shut it...that would be worse) condensation can build as a result of the moisture left in the machine. It collects on the coldest surface which is normally the glass door, runs down it and then 'drips' where the worst patch in your pic is.

I have never had any issues with my machines but then I am an habitual 'bellows' wiper and leave my door ajar at 45 degrees (or wide open) to dry the machine out before pushing it to.

Try this test. Get a spray bottle of some sort and mist the door so that there is enough for it to start moving. Push the door to as you normally would and see where it drips.

I'll bet that if you clean the area as Laundress suggests (I would try to remove the lower panel too to make sure you get it all) and then paint it with some automotive paint in conjunction with leaving the door open 45degrees you will substantially reduce it happening again.


Post# 328001 , Reply# 3   1/31/2009 at 21:05 (5,535 days old) by autowasherfreak ()        

After the last load I wipe out the bellows, inside the door. For awhile I would just leave the door open a little, but now I leave is wide open. I will sand it and repaint it. I want to get a couple of dehumidifiers down there but the darn things are expensive.

Post# 328020 , Reply# 4   1/31/2009 at 23:23 (5,535 days old) by ronhic (Canberra, Australia)        

ronhic's profile picture
Does your dryer either condense or vent externally?

Is there any ventilation in there? If so, can it be made into 'forced air' by putting an extractor fan in so that it operates on a timed switch or something?


Post# 328104 , Reply# 5   2/1/2009 at 14:30 (5,534 days old) by autowasherfreak ()        

The dryer is gas and is vented out. There's really no ventallation. It's not to bad down there in the winter. But during the summer it's very damp down there. Most of the windows have been covered with sheets of pink insulation and then sealed with expanding caulking. There is one window that can be opened, which is where I would like to have as my laundry room, it's bigger, and doesn't creep me out as much.

I'm going to post the pictures in a new thread in Super instead of here.


Post# 328106 , Reply# 6   2/1/2009 at 14:36 (5,534 days old) by frigilux (The Minnesota Prairie)        

frigilux's profile picture
What kind (brand) of washer is that, Jim?

Post# 328117 , Reply# 7   2/1/2009 at 14:51 (5,534 days old) by autowasherfreak ()        

Frigidaire Gallery.

Post# 328118 , Reply# 8   2/1/2009 at 14:54 (5,534 days old) by autowasherfreak ()        

Check out thread 20664 I want this to be my laundry room in Super.

Post# 328147 , Reply# 9   2/1/2009 at 16:31 (5,534 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

Looks like you may need a dehumidifier that does not have a pan, but a hose that you could run to a floor drain down there.
That toilet photo you posted looks like the sub floor is either all rotted or molded away.
A dehumidifier would help your case greatly.


Post# 328159 , Reply# 10   2/1/2009 at 17:11 (5,534 days old) by autowasherfreak ()        

That's actually a concrete floor, but the drains in there have backup so many times it's covered with grease and gunk, and I have no clue as how to clean it. It was suggested once to use a pressure washer, but I'm afraid to because of the electric water heater this in the same room.


Post# 329497 , Reply# 11   2/9/2009 at 14:08 (5,526 days old) by toggleswitch2 ()        

My Fridgidaire tends to leak a little bit when the tub is rather full. But my leak comes from BEHIND the boot and trickles out of the left front corner of the machine (as one lookds at it).

I wonder if yours leaks at that point wehn your tub is quite full.


BTW ONE dehumdifier may suffice. Just remember that a higher setting i,e, (50% RH versus 40% RH) means it works LESS! If there is a way that you can set it up to drains somewhere via hose and nto into a bucket that needs to be emptied, the overall outcome will be greater/better results; it won't need to stop, waiting to be emptied.

If your humdidity is too high in winter, a radiatorr-style oil-filled heater in a low wattage setting may help lower the RH while useful heat warms your floors and travels up into living space.



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