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Thread Number: 21854
What do you know about very late Belt Drive Lady Kenmores? |
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Post# 343625 4/19/2009 at 23:46 (5,483 days old) by volvoguy87  (Cincinnati, OH) |
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Thanks to the kindness of Supremewhirlpool I have my very first Kenmore Belt Drive set, and what a set it is! It is an electronic solid state Lady Kenmore pair. I just can't start anything easy! I have not yet found the model plate for the washer, but the dryer's model (if I am recalling correctly) starts with 110-8169. The washer and dryer are a matched set. They are white but they have spent some time outside and they did get wet. I will not be connecting anything for quite some time. They aren't in wonderful condition. There is quite a lot of rust on the cabinets and they will have to be completely repainted. The dryer's top looks to be painted, but the washer's top looks like porcelain, although it might not be in super shape. There is some water in the washer's outer tub but not much. Supremewhirlpool said the outer tub leaks so I'll look into that before doing much. The washer needs a pretty intense rebuild and it will take me quite some time to sort through what I need to do. I think these are either the last or second to last of the Belt Drive TOL Kenmores. I know little about BD Kenmores, having never owned one and only having used one a handful of times. What do y'all know about about the electronic BD Ladies? What are the cycles and features? What is parts compatibility like with other models/years? Also, the washer has a DA agitator (missing its cap on top). Would the Super Duty Whirlpool Surgilator with the clover base fit? Would the SD Surgilator have any advantages over the DA, would it be a fun novelty, or would it be considered a sacrilege? This will be a very slow, long term project. For now, I am working on some other things (improving conditions at the house I am restoring with my housemate and trying to find a job). I'll post some pics tomorrow, but for now I am going to bed, Dave | ||
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Post# 343626 , Reply# 1 4/20/2009 at 00:08 (5,483 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH) |
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A pic. | ||
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Post# 343628 , Reply# 2 4/20/2009 at 00:40 (5,483 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC) |
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Dave - The washer, just like the $6-million Dollar Man, can be rebuilt! I wouldn't worry too much about it having been outside or wet, that happens all the time. I am going to embark on a cabinet re-spray on three machines this summer, which are on a par with yours. I'm going to use a professional refinisher, but it could be done with much less. My thought is to paint the cabinets when they're empty of most parts. Your machine appears to be a 1981 or newer Lady K. By 1983 the Lady K had gone back to being mechanically controlled, and the electronic version was called the Limited Edition. So, your machine is probably a 1981 or 1982. The "Heavy Duty Plus" is a good starting point, as this was a marketing program for 1981 thru 1986. As far as the mechanicals, everything under the control console is vintage BD, although the wires in some places are different colors due to the electronic controls. You'll want to check the motor that it hasn't locked-up, and tug on the belt to be sure the pump and basket drive pulleys are still free to move. To thoroughly rebuild a washer like this, I have done the following: 1) Ascertain the condition of the transmission. If it has not had water leak into it, it should be able to be reused. 2) Always replace the seal on top of the spin tube, and the centerpost bearing seals. These maintain the air gap under the agitator that is essential for keeping the centerpost and transmission dry. Make sure there are no rough grooves worn on the agitator shaft or spin tube which would wear-down the new seals. Place at least a teaspoon of turbine oil to re-lube each of the two bearings while the machine is apart. 3) Replace the belt 4) Replace the pump - at least if it looks original. A new pump will be quieter than the old one, and will operate the triple dispenser more satisfactorily. Old pumps can leak as well. 5) Pull the outer tub CAREFULLY and replace the centerpost gasket. Since yours is already leaking, this is mandatory, but I usually pull them anyway because they tend to leak eventually. 6) With the tub out, replace the tub outlet hose. Also check the bleach hose and put a dob of sealer on it when reinstalling - these usually leak if there isn't already a detergent trail on the basket from previous leaks. Be very careful around the triple dispenser area. These are usually rusty areas which we would want to clean up, but do so with care as the dispenser itself can be cracked and is very expensive to replace (like over $140 if you can find one). I will be glad to help you with each step, with part numbers, and any advise. Pictures of the machine from the vantage point of the service panel will help, but I am certain you can get that washer up and running and to its previous glory if you really want to! Good find, I'm glad it found a willing home! Gordon | ||
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Post# 343772 , Reply# 3 4/20/2009 at 17:11 (5,482 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH) |
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And now some pictures...
This is our nasty basement. From left to right: Electronic Lady Kenmore electric dryer (new to me). Electronic Lady Kenmore Washer belt drive (new to me). Maytag DE608 electric dryer (new to me). Maytag DE306 dryer (in use). Maytag A206 washer (in use). Speed Queen wringer, which we do use, although the pump is presently bypassed. There is also a triple concrete laundry sink.
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Post# 343773 , Reply# 4 4/20/2009 at 17:17 (5,482 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH) |
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Washer control panel and top.
There is significant rust on the cabinet, which will have to be sanded off and repainted. Is the washer's top porcelain? There is some rust on the top too and I don't know how best to address it. If I end up having to paint the top, I am considering doing something other than white, since paint can be redone later. I am leaning toward glossy black since I always liked the Kenmore electronic sets in black.
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Post# 343774 , Reply# 5 4/20/2009 at 17:22 (5,482 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH) |
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Skreem!
The "money shot." This will need some serious cleaning. I hope that's not tub rust. If it is, should I start looking for a new tub or can I fix it? What other models used this tub? I thought this would be the largest capacity offered at the time, but the Energyguide lists the capacity as "Standard." Also, where is the model tag? I still haven't located it and haven't a clue as to what my model number is.
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Post# 343779 , Reply# 6 4/20/2009 at 17:35 (5,482 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH) |
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Triple Dispenser! | ||
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Post# 343780 , Reply# 7 4/20/2009 at 17:37 (5,482 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH) |
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More to come. | ||
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Post# 343791 , Reply# 8 4/20/2009 at 18:39 (5,482 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC) |
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Dave - Your model tag is down there just atop the left front foot. I think I see it in the pic, surrounded by rust. The top is indeed porcelain. It may be a challenge to stick paint to, however I believe Rickr has done that successfully. That is the largest tub, but everything was quoted as 'standard' capacity back then that wasn't compact. There are replacement tubs out there, but coming across a white one may be elusive. They were limited to (in Kenmores) the electronic machines, the Lady K, and one or two other high-end models. That one may yet surprise you with some elbow grease. The liguid detergent insert snaps in and out of the dispenser. I can't remember exactly how (only done it once), but it's not difficult. The rust around the dispenser is very common, btw. Gordon | ||
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Post# 343792 , Reply# 9 4/20/2009 at 18:40 (5,482 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC) |
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Post# 343796 , Reply# 10 4/20/2009 at 18:55 (5,482 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC) |
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| Post# 343797 , Reply# 11 4/20/2009 at 18:57 (5,482 days old) by classiccaprice (Hampton, Virginia) | ||
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| Post# 343829 , Reply# 12 4/20/2009 at 22:01 (5,482 days old) by 70series ( Connecticut.) | ||
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Nice collection you are amassing. The 206 Maytag is my childhood washer. Have a good one, James | ||
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Post# 343857 , Reply# 13 4/21/2009 at 01:12 (5,482 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH) |
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Dryer open for business.
The dryer needs a little work too, but not as much as the washer. I was surprised to see the small opening, I had expected to see the oblong opening like on my grandmother's 1985 KM gas center dial. The dryer is the lightest appliance in the basement. The DE 608 is a little heavier. The DE 306 is heavier than the DE608, and I don't know which is heavier, the A206 or the KM Belt Drive washer. The KM washer's cabinet seemed to flex more as we moved it. The A206 is a daily driver, but I really need to change the oil. Will, Wes is NOT amused to have a washer basement. But he can't say much because he has 40 sewing machines!
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Post# 343858 , Reply# 14 4/21/2009 at 01:18 (5,482 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH) |
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Closeup.
The dryer's model tag. Anyone know when i was born? Kenmoreguy64, thanks for the tip on the location of the model tag and the agitator hardware. I will definitely need to get in touch with you before I start work on these. If anyone needs to know, my camera is a 2004 Nikon D70 and the setting I used for the model tag shot is the flower (closeup) setting on the main control knob. Keep 'em coming, Dave How should I remove the agitator? 
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| Post# 343860 , Reply# 15 4/21/2009 at 01:38 (5,482 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
Anyone know when I was born?  | ||
| Post# 343876 , Reply# 16 4/21/2009 at 06:20 (5,482 days old) by classiccaprice (Hampton, Virginia) | ||
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Post# 343879 , Reply# 17 4/21/2009 at 07:23 (5,481 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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DATE OF BIRTH | ||
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Post# 343949 , Reply# 19 4/21/2009 at 13:35 (5,481 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC) |
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Charles - A similar machine was available for the 1980 season, which you'd see in the fall '79 catalog, but I would not call it exact. The "Heavy Duty Plus" campaign hadn't started yet, so the panel would be at least cosmetically a little different, and the machine itself would be of the original large capacity size, meaning most everything except the actual running gear was different (baseplate, tub, basket, suspension rods, etc. would all be different between the late 70s models and the 1981-1986 design). Feature-wise though, these machines are probably the same. Gordon | ||
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Post# 343952 , Reply# 20 4/21/2009 at 13:47 (5,481 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC) |
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Dave - To remove the agitator, all you need is a socket wrench to take the agitator stud out (hold onto the agitator base when you turn the socket). When the stud is out, put your fingers under the base of the agitator, and push up with your thumbs or pull up. Keep your face/chin away from the auger, especially without the cap on it. These agitators rarely get stuck on their shafts which is common on older machines. Don't pull on the auger. About the dryer opening, the oblong opening didn't debut until sometime in 1983 I think, maybe even early '84, as '84 models. There was a brief marketing bonanza by Sears IIRC when these hit the market. My mother's 1983 model dryer has the same opening as yours. The white finished drum came about a year or so later. The flexing of your washer's cabinet is characteristic of machines of that time. They flex (and dent) much more easily than machines of 10 years earlier, especially when the weight of the machine is shift onto one or two feet, etc. Be very careful of that in your machine's case, as the rust on the lower cabinet could cause the corner gussets to snap or break at the welds, which makes shoring-up the machine on the floor very difficult. I would try to get the rust off, and prime and seal it as soon as possible. I say that when I have one or two like that myself, so I know how painting projects can be. Gordon | ||
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