Beginning Restoration on Maytag 101P!!


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Thread Number: 2188
Beginning Restoration on Maytag 101P!!

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Post# 67793 5/23/2005 at 09:49 (6,905 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)
Checkrate/Likes Hi Everyone ... Here is the what I managed to get started on this weekend. I got the cabinet off and started to pull everything apart. I like the ease of getting to everything; it is all very gunky. You should have seen the stuff come out when I tipped the whole unit over onto the drive. I used the pressure washer to get inbetween the tubs and the basin and there were globs of black gunk that poured out. The agitator is stuck and I'm afraid I'll have to cut it out. I tried to get the Agitamer underneath, but to no avail. There is so much dirt, etc. under the agitator that the Agitamer won't fit. I'm very disappointed, because I think that this agitator is in really good shape. Red bakelite!! Once I get the agitator off, I can lift out the porcelain tub and clean, clean, clean. The torque clutch and braking system look almost perfect!! No need to disassemble. I've pulled the motor off and will drop it off to be gone over thoroughly. The pump is fine and you should have seen the stuff come out of it!! GROSS!!!! The hoses are shot, but I expected that. I'm really enjoying this process and am learning a lot. I can't wait to work on it more. I have a friend who does electro-coating of metals and will have him do the cabinet and lid. The top console panel is near perfect and cleaned up well with No. 7 white rubbing compound. I'll post another picture of the base near the water inlet; it's fairly water damaged. Maytag sure made a solid machine; very heavy!!! Geoff

Post# 67795 , Reply# 1 5/23/2005 at 09:57 (6,905 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)
Checkrate/Likes *Base Shot* Here is the base shot. This machine must have been sitting in water; underneath is all rusty. The screens are all plugged. I am so surprised nobody got electrocuted!! The front half of the machine underneath looks brand new. The motor was near perfect ... just a light oil film from operation. The power plug was breaking near the plug and wires were soon to be exposed. I love these "solder-less" connections. Just "plug and play"!!! Geoff

Post# 67800 , Reply# 2 5/23/2005 at 11:41 (6,905 days old) by CHRISTFR (st louis mo)
Checkrate/Likes *hey cool* i did the same machine 2 years ago and loved it. the machine is fun to work on and great then its done. you should start lookin for a water boot and replace that while you have it apart i learned the hard way on that one.. looks like all your wires are there and thats a good thing. the one i have had all the wires eaten away by mice. i wish you the all the best of luck with it and i know youll love it when its done. if you need any help let me know be glad to chris

Post# 67802 , Reply# 3 5/23/2005 at 11:56 (6,904 days old) by lesto (Atlanta)
Checkrate/Likes What is an agitamer? If you cut the agitator out will it be ruined or will you be able to reinstall it? I red bakelite is so rare I hope you don't have to replace it with a black one from some later AMP model.

Post# 67804 , Reply# 4 5/23/2005 at 12:41 (6,904 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)
Checkrate/Likes Chris ... I will check out the water boot. I just found out I can buy a new v-belt still through the local Maytag dealer; that's good. Les ... an Agitamer is a bladder-like device that you insert underneath a stuck agitator and the other end hooks up to a faucet. You then s-l-o-w-l-y allow water into the bladder and as the bladder expands, it raises the agitator off the shaft. I'm going to try one more thing before I think about breaking it; there was an agitator remover that Maytag used for years. It's sort of looks like two small "claws" that grasp the agitator underneath by the fins and then you use a 2x4 as a brace across the tub. Then there is a screw that you twist down and it places pressure on the claws and board and pulls the agitator up ... if I can just get it started, I can use the Agitamer instead. If it pulls off the spline, I know of one more spline still out there. But, if it breaks the agitator, I'm sunk!! The problem is the stop ring. I'm sure by now it is dried out and very brittle. Once you get the agitator over the stop ring, you have it made!! Wish me luck!! Geoff

Post# 67810 , Reply# 5 5/23/2005 at 13:40 (6,904 days old) by Gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)
Checkrate/Likes Oh Geoff, I sure do wish you luck with removing that agitator. I know how annoying it can be to have something really slow down the restoration process when you are really going at it full steam ahead! I hope you will be able to figure out a way to remove the thing without breaking it. If you could just turn the whole machine upside down and using a straw or something to reach under the agitator skirt to spray some P.B.Blaster. Let that run down into the spline area for a while-----well----just a thought. Best wishes! Steve

Post# 67813 , Reply# 6 5/23/2005 at 13:58 (6,904 days old) by COLDSPOT66 (Plymouth, Mass)
Checkrate/Likes Geoff, You could try lubing the Agitamer with liquid soap/detergent and then slipping it under the agitator. Try not to get too much soap on you hands, as that will make it harder to fit it under the base of the agitator. Make sure none of the agitamer is sticking out from the base. Be sure it is all tucked in under the agitator and not bunched up anywhere. Using the maytag agitator puller may crack the base...says so in the service literature that I have. Hope this helps!!

Post# 67814 , Reply# 7 5/23/2005 at 14:00 (6,904 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)
Checkrate/Likes Steve ... Thanks!!! What is PB Blaster? I'll try anything ... I was even thinking of leaving it and removing the balancing ring to clean and paint it. I can get most of the gunk off the tub with a Brillo pad and elbow grease. Maybe by just using it for a while with hot water will break up whats underneath the agitator ... I just don't know. Geoff

Post# 67816 , Reply# 8 5/23/2005 at 14:02 (6,904 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)
Checkrate/Likes John ... thanks. I did use Palmolive this weekend without success. It is just too tight because of the "gunk". I even took a heavy-duty piece of string and tried to "floss" out the icky stuff; it was worthless. I did get some out. Like I said, maybe if I can just use it with hot water for a while; who knows? So close ... Geoff

Post# 67821 , Reply# 9 5/23/2005 at 15:32 (6,904 days old) by alr2903 (TN)
Checkrate/Likes *oh geoff* I hope you get it out, but if the thing works, like it is wash rags, rags, rags with hot water and bleach. I hate to see you loose your red bakelite agitator. I have never restored anything... but I wish you the best with your project. alr2903

Post# 67823 , Reply# 10 5/23/2005 at 16:28 (6,904 days old) by Gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)
Checkrate/Likes *Geoff* Sounds like you need some industrial strength de-greaser and your pressure washer to shoot a stream under the agitator and get the gunk out. Then after it has a chance to dry-------P.B. "Blaster" is found at the auto parts store. A number of folks reccomended it to me and once I tried it I was hooked! It is the best stuff to loosen "frozen" parts I have tried----and in trying to restore my '55 Unimatic---I've tried them all! The information on the can says manufactured by B'Laster/B.C.C.I. of Cleveland, Oh. Phone# 1-800-858-6605. Once you try this stuff you will be convinced! Best wishes! -Steve

Post# 67824 , Reply# 11 5/23/2005 at 16:33 (6,904 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)
Checkrate/Likes *Oh, vey!* Alr2903 ... I will try to preserve it; thank you for the well wishes! I think I will keep "flossing" it with string and tonight I'll try some Brillo pads and scrub, scrub, scrub all around the tub. I can get the balancing ring out because it is fastened to the tub and the screws are quite accessible. Once I have that out, I can really clean all around the tubs. I looked inside to the basin that I "blasted" with the power hose this weekend and it is pretty clean! That's good. Hopefully, I will save the agitator. It really is in too good of a condition to lose.

Post# 67825 , Reply# 12 5/23/2005 at 17:01 (6,904 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)
Checkrate/Likes *Steve ...* Thanks for the info!! I'll stop at the auto parts store tomorrow on my lunch. I've never heard of PB Blaster before. You're right, if I can just get under it I KNOW I could really blast it out.

Post# 67826 , Reply# 13 5/23/2005 at 17:09 (6,904 days old) by westytoploader ()
Checkrate/Likes Good luck Geoff!! I am one of the many members that swear by PB--it's really helping out on the 1-18 (which I am working on now)! The Agi-Tamer is a very effective tool, but may shatter a bakelite agitator, so be careful. However, if you're going to toast the agitator anyway it won't matter...just make sure nothing flies in your face!

Post# 67828 , Reply# 14 5/23/2005 at 17:25 (6,904 days old) by Goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)
Checkrate/Likes PB Blaster is in a white can that looks like an infomercial.Says "As seen on TV",in red and yellow letters.Very colorful! Have you tried baling string,like used with hay bales,to loosen the gunk under the agitator? It's a little rougher,and might break more of it loose. kennyGF

Post# 67832 , Reply# 15 5/23/2005 at 18:01 (6,904 days old) by fixerman ()
Checkrate/Likes The agitamer doesn't work well on agitators with the splines on the bottom. I wouldn't use it at all if you want to save the agitator. I have built a tool to remove Maytag agitators that works well on later plastic agitators that have some flex to them. Basically support the inside of the agitator with a steel tuhe the exact size of the inside of the agitator then make a clamp out of 2x4's with cutouts in the middle to match the outside diameter of the agitator top. Use threaded rod and nuts and washers to tighten these two halves together. This will give you something to grab on to. Then used chains attached at 2 points on this clamp. Then used a tripod like device I built myself to place on top of the tub and attached the chain ends to it. If you wanted to try this convaluted method I could make a sketch for you. Or just try making the clamp with the chains attached to either end and use a long 2x4 placed under the chains to try to leverage the agitator out. Hope this maks sense. This worked well on the later flexible plastic agitators but may be dangerous on bakelite. Just another idea you might ponder. Good luck

Post# 67868 , Reply# 16 5/23/2005 at 22:35 (6,904 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)
Checkrate/Likes Degreaser? Try Lye in the form of spray oven cleaner. It is an awesome degreaser. ...I would test it on a sacrifcial piece of bakelite first, though Barring that: Ammonia...even weaker still..automatic dishwasher detergent. This stuff packs a lot of whallop as a degreaser as it very "basic" [oposite of acidic] GOOD LUCK!

Post# 67878 , Reply# 17 5/24/2005 at 00:04 (6,904 days old) by westytoploader ()
Checkrate/Likes Looks like you'll definitely need POR-15 as well. Probably the best (although messy) rustproofing paint ever made! I agree with everyone else; if you can get it working, try agitating with very hot water and DW detergent to dislodge the gunk. Maybe you'll be able to get the AgiTamer in there after that.

Post# 67931 , Reply# 18 5/24/2005 at 07:59 (6,904 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)
Checkrate/Likes *Update* Good morning, everyone ... Thanks for all the great advice!! That's what is so wonderful about this forum, there are a lot of people who have done things that work and they are willing to share their knowledge! I was able to remove the balancing ring last night and the pump without any problems. Now, I've got a straight shot to super cleaning the tub and the basin. I decided to keep trying to clean underneath the agitator. I forgot all about automatic dishwasher detergent!! That's super "bleachy" and should help. The suggestion to use baling twine to "floss" is great, too. I agree, these bakelite agitators can get so brittle and I'm afraid a brutal type removal will just shatter it. I also don't want to destroy the float system; I understand the diaphragm is hard to come by and difficult to re-install. Austin, what is POR-15? A vehicle paint? Like a primer? I was going to use Rustoleum's primer gray. I'll try to remember to take a camera home tonight to give you another shot of the clean-up process. Thanks again everyone; I am most grateful!! :-) Geoff

Post# 67933 , Reply# 19 5/24/2005 at 08:54 (6,904 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)
Checkrate/Likes Hi Geoff, its a good thing you couldn't get the Agitamer under that red bakelite agitator, it would have broken it into at least three pieces in no time flat. Filling the tub with very hot water might do the trick to loosen the agitator, but you will need long heat proof rubber gloves to try and pull it out. Hot water might not work either, I suspect the only way you are going to be able to get it out is to break it and replace the agitator. A later Maytag agitator will fit, but it wont have the float assembly :(. Is there a specific reason why you need to get the agitator off? Actually if you need to you can pull the tub and agitator out as a unit if you remove some parts from below the outer tub.

Post# 67935 , Reply# 20 5/24/2005 at 09:40 (6,904 days old) by westytoploader ()
Checkrate/Likes How does this type of float assembly actually work? The 1949 AMP's float just "lifts" up with the water. Also, how would you go about watching the action if the water level switch was in the lid, and the lid was up?

Post# 67937 , Reply# 21 5/24/2005 at 10:04 (6,904 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)
Checkrate/Likes Hi Robert ... The real reason why I want to remove the agitator is to finish cleaning. I hate other people's "gunk". I was studying the service guide and I could remove the torque clutch and brake assembly and pull the entire unit out; but I can probably clean this quite well as is. I want to be able to keep this machine as original as possible.

Post# 67938 , Reply# 22 5/24/2005 at 10:12 (6,904 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)
Checkrate/Likes Hi Austin ... the stainless steel cap on this machine lifts up, also. There is a diaphragm inside the agitator which rises the stainless steel cap as the water level rises and it presses against the black bakelite button to trip the mercury switch and start agitation/spin action. One of the selling points with Maytag was safety. You could not watch any action with the lid up. Everything stopped. I was reading in the service manual that one could install demonstration switches on the back cabinet that would bypass the mercury switch system so dealers could demonstrate the filling, agitation, and spin action of these machines. I'll get it all working correctly first and then I'll think about the switches. I grew up with Maytag's, so I'm used to not being able to see everything!! :-) Actually, I think if you lift the lid a few inches, you can see the action before it stops.

Post# 67947 , Reply# 23 5/24/2005 at 10:39 (6,904 days old) by retromom ()
Checkrate/Likes *How cool is that!* Geoff: You really have your work cut out for you! I know you will really love that washer when you are done! What an awesome red agitator! This is going to be a fun one to watch! Venus

Post# 67951 , Reply# 24 5/24/2005 at 11:00 (6,904 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)
Checkrate/Likes *Pretty Cool!* Hi Venus: I think I probably will like this washer a lot when I'm done. My Mom is constantly on me about using my wrists when I use my Maytag wringers; she thinks I'm going to damage them from rinsing by hand!! :-) She also remembers the work that used to be entailed with this method of doing laundry. She checked out the "new" Maytag the other night and said, "that's just like my first one!" Followed by the gratuitous "how much did you pay for that?" :-) My Mom is 84 years young this year and lives with me now. She LOVES the brand new Maytag I bought in 1998. Bet 'ya she uses this one, too. I was surprised, but the gallon capacity is only 12.75 gallons per full load. My Maytag wringer Model N is a 16 gallon tub. Quite a bit of difference!! The instruction book talks about not having to wash once a week, but when it's "convenient"; every day if you wish!!! Fun stuff ... Geoff

Post# 67962 , Reply# 25 5/24/2005 at 13:01 (6,903 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)
Checkrate/Likes Geoff, all you have to do is jump the lid switch on this machine. Then you will need to let if fill with the lid closed and when agitation begins you can open it for wash and spin.

Post# 67963 , Reply# 26 5/24/2005 at 13:04 (6,903 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)
Checkrate/Likes Robert, if I jump the lid switch, will the unbalance switch still work?

Post# 67967 , Reply# 27 5/24/2005 at 13:23 (6,903 days old) by lesto (Atlanta)
Checkrate/Likes I may be wrong but I don't think the AMPs have an unbalance switch. Anyway, I think Robert is right. Stop trying to remove the agitator or it will surely break and red bakelites are not easy to find.

Post# 68042 , Reply# 28 5/24/2005 at 20:27 (6,903 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)
Checkrate/Likes Hi Geoff, no if you jump the lid switch the unbalance switch wont work anymore but the AMP has a pretty solid suspension system and you probably wouldn't wash just one rug in this machine anyway. Besides you'll want to be there to catch all the fun and you would catch an off-balance load manually.

Post# 68116 , Reply# 29 5/25/2005 at 08:28 (6,903 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)
Checkrate/Likes Thanks, Robert ... will it also bypass the water level, too? Will it always be set on "normal"? You're right ... I probably will never wash just one rug; I use the wringers for those!! :-)

Post# 68154 , Reply# 30 5/25/2005 at 16:10 (6,902 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)
Checkrate/Likes Geoff there are two independent mercury switches in the lid. One senses when the lid is closed (you need to bypass this one) the other senses when the water level float in the agitator touches the black button underneath the lid. If you open the lid with the lid switch bypassed the mercury in the water level switch falls down to the bottom of the switch via gravity and the machine thinks the proper water level has been reached. You can set the water level to what ever you want and when agitation begins you can then open the lid. In summary, with the safety switched bypassed, if you open the lid when the machine is filling it will simply start to agitate. If you leave the lid closed during the fills the machine will start to agitate when the proper water level is reached. In my AMP I start the washer without any clothes in it with the lid closed and I let it fill for a minute. Then I open the lid and let agitation begin and add the detergent to mix in with the water with the agitator going. After 20 seconds or so I push the dial in and add the clothes and close the lid. I pull the dial back out and the machine fills to the proper level. When agitation begins again I can open the lid to watch the action.

Post# 68157 , Reply# 31 5/25/2005 at 16:51 (6,902 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)
Checkrate/Likes Robert, thanks! I do see where there are two separate mercury switches in the lid. I am still trying to figure out how they did the water level indicator. It is attached on the inside of the lid to the button via a spring. I would assume if you turn the dial to a lower water setting, it moves the button further in to "trick" the machine into thinking there is more water in tub - is that right? I don't see how it could affect the diaphragm on the agitator otherwise. The way you bypassed the switches sounds like the "demonstration" switch they used to install for the dealers on the back of the machine. When you flipped it to manual, it would start to agitate or spin, depending upon where you had the dial set. They had a separate switch for filling. Once the tub was filled, however, you had to switch it back to automatic otherwise it would continue to fill with water ... sort of like an overflow wash and/or rinse! :-) I like the way you have your AMP set-up; I enjoyed watching it at the wash-in.

Post# 68216 , Reply# 32 5/26/2005 at 09:00 (6,902 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)
Checkrate/Likes *Agitator Moving* Hi Everyone ... last night, I was scrubbing on this machine with a Brillo pad and thought, "why can't I get the agitator to move back and forth by hand?" I started to "floss" with string and got quite a bit of dirt out from underneath and then ... voila! ... I was able to manually push the agitator back and forth!! I was so pumped ... there's hope for all of this yet!! This weekend, I'm going to put the top back on and the motor back in and see if I can't get this pretty little Maytag to agitate and spin. She sure is begging for a tub-full of hot water, Tide and some Clorox for a thorough cleaning!!!!! Geoff

Post# 68222 , Reply# 33 5/26/2005 at 10:15 (6,902 days old) by Mayken4now (Panama City, Florida)
Checkrate/Likes *Let us know if* it will agitate once you put the motor on. Give it a try. If that is successful, then was the living H..L out of her with real hot water, maybe a rag or two. Then that will loosen all the crud and perhaps you will be able to give it what it needs at that time. Good Luck! Steve

Post# 68242 , Reply# 34 5/26/2005 at 13:39 (6,901 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)
Checkrate/Likes Steve ... thanks! I will give it a shot.

Post# 68244 , Reply# 35 5/26/2005 at 13:49 (6,901 days old) by Gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)
Checkrate/Likes Geoff, that is such good news as I know you did not want that agitator to break! I hope it will work for you now.

Post# 68263 , Reply# 36 5/26/2005 at 16:05 (6,901 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)
Checkrate/Likes Thanks, Steve ... I'll let everyone know!! :-)

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