Thread Number: 22394
GE Filter Flo |
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Post# 350657 , Reply# 1   5/21/2009 at 15:20 (5,446 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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Welcome, and you may want to rethink a few things. Your problem, if it's a small leak, could be the drain pump, but if it is a gusher is likely a slipped $2.00 hose clamp around the rubber boot at the bottom of the outer tub. It's not hard to fix. If you choose not to fix it, thanks for listing the whole machine or parts. The model number tag may be on the front bottom corner of the left side of the washer. What mixers do you favor? I tend to prefer my grandmother's Hamilton Beach model G, although my other grandmother's 1963 Dormeyer (spelling?) has its nice features. Welcome to AW.org, Dave |
Post# 350659 , Reply# 2   5/21/2009 at 15:25 (5,446 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
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Someone will surely take you up on the GE parts, Sherri! GE Filter-Flo machines are quite popular around here! Just an aside, I am a mixer collector nutbar too - email me if you ever need any bowls or beaters 'cuz I am WAY overstocked and it's trying my hubby's patience! Well, that and the last two washers I picked up.. lol |
Post# 350677 , Reply# 3   5/21/2009 at 17:16 (5,446 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)   |   | |
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Post# 350771 , Reply# 6   5/22/2009 at 10:19 (5,445 days old) by everythingold (Grand Rapids, Michigan)   |   | |
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Post# 350824 , Reply# 9   5/22/2009 at 17:31 (5,445 days old) by mixergal ()   |   | |
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Here's the basket |
Post# 350832 , Reply# 11   5/22/2009 at 18:26 (5,445 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)   |   | |
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Post# 350846 , Reply# 12   5/22/2009 at 19:51 (5,445 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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A new tub boot clamp and maybe a new clutch & relay and your GE is good for another 20 years. Be careful not to overload your new Frigidaire, they have an indexing tub which doesn't respond especially well to overloads. My maternal grandmother gave m her Hamilton Beach model G. It is back in Virginia at my parents' house right now but I recall the serial number was strangely even, like #1000 or something like that. I will have to check when I am next at home. She was given the mixer as soon as civilian production resumed after The War (they were married in June of 1945 and are still going strong). I have the juicer (all the parts!) and the drink stirrer. I have also found an original instruction and recipe book and a replacement for the long-vanished large bowl. Were there any other accessories offered by HB for the model G? My paternal grandmother gave me her Dormeyer. Sadly, it is also in VA. I don't know the model, but it has a black base, a chrome stand, and the mixer is also chrome. It has 2 stainless steel bowls and the meat grinder, complete with wooden "stuffer" stick and chrome support leg with a rubber tip on the bottom. I have the receipt for it along with the warranty card, the receipt is dated 1963. My housemate here was a friend of mine from grad school in Savannah, GA and he did see my Hamilton Beach G there. He liked it so much he bought one too. I still like mine, but I used his last night to mix cake batter. All vintage all the time, Dave |
Post# 350847 , Reply# 13   5/22/2009 at 20:05 (5,445 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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Nice machine, I had one that looked exactly like that one except no mini-basket feature. I ended up parting it out because the agitator and shaft were rusted and eaten up and the transmission was locked. |
Post# 350857 , Reply# 14   5/22/2009 at 20:49 (5,445 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA)   |   | |
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Have yet to be dissapointed in mine. The washer kicks butt and so does the dryer. All of my machines are daily drivers but especially the GE for the pure versatility and cleaning ability. The mini-basket is a great option too. Something I never really thought I'd use much but, in fact, I use it quite a bit. They are great machines and still plenty of parts out there to keep them going for decades to come. Jon |
Post# 350975 , Reply# 17   5/23/2009 at 10:39 (5,444 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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Post# 351035 , Reply# 19   5/23/2009 at 15:51 (5,444 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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To repair the boot, a 12 step program: 1. Open the top of the washer (not the lid, the whole top, it's hinged at the back) Anyone here remember how to do this? 2. Remove the agitator (there may be a bolt, screw, or nothing holding it in place). 3. Remove the plastic cover beneath the agitator by sliding the lever and lifting up. 4. Remove the tub bolts holding the inner tub to the transmission base (you must use a 12 pointed socket, not a 6 pointed one). You do not need to remove the bolts on the agitator shaft itself, just the ones on the bottom of the inner tub. 5. Remove the filter flo flume by just pulling it. 6. Remove the wash tub by lifting it straight up. In order to clear the fill flume, you may have to push the agitator post back. Note, do not grab the tub by the plastic clothes guard! 7. Use a shop vac to suck out any remaining water and debris from the wash tub. Also, look for a sock or anything that could obstruct the drain to the pump. 8. See that big black thing at the bottom of the tub connecting the tub to the transmission? That's the boot. These can get holes from pins etc. but that's quite unusual. 9. Get new clamps for the boot. They are giant hose clamps available from any independent hardware store or auto parts store for a mere few bucks. I don't think mine were more than $5.00. You can get replacements from GE or an appliance shop, but they are more expensive and are kind of flimsy in comparison. The Boot, if it needs to be replaced, is officially listed as NLA (No Longer Available) but new ones are plentiful on ebay. 10. Remove the boot and inspect it if you want. I soaked mine in vinegar for a day to remove scale. I also lightly sanded the transmission housing where the boot connects to remove some light surface rust and make a good seal. 11. Inspect the outer tub for rust (fixable with plumbers putty and POR-15). 12. Reassemble, and remember to screw those hose clamps down tight and do a water test before you put back the inner tub! I will search for my thread I posted while doing this repair. Also, a compelling reason to keep the GE is that it has the most effective lint filtering system you can get. It will render clothes cleaner than the WCI Frigidaire. Cheers, Dave |
Post# 351038 , Reply# 20   5/23/2009 at 16:00 (5,444 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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Here was my learning experience. I ended up reusing the original boot without any problem. Dave CLICK HERE TO GO TO volvoguy87's LINK |
Post# 351094 , Reply# 22   5/23/2009 at 21:17 (5,444 days old) by 70series ( Connecticut.)   |   | |
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My aunt had a washer like that. She bought it in November, 1988 to replace a 1970 Kenmore 500, but it only lasted until January 1995. Have a good one, James |
Post# 351151 , Reply# 24   5/24/2009 at 01:24 (5,443 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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In my profession (Historic Preservation) there is a lot of this going on. Most people automatically assume that the wood must be sanded and then covered with polyurethane. This is not always necessary. Before you sand the floor, vacuum it well and SCRUB it with Murphy Oil Soap. If you use a machine like a Hoover Spin-Scrub that can suck up the wash water, so much the better. Rinsing would be a good idea if you can suck up the water. As a coating, good old fashioned wax works remarkably well. Bruce makes a very nice tinted wax that is good at hiding scuffs and floor wear. It won't make your floor look like new, it will just make it look like an older floor that has aged gracefully. The reason why many historic preservationists avoid polyurethane is because, although tough, it is impossible to repair. Many traditional varnishes and waxes can be easily repaired if they get damaged by applying some solvent and/or some more varnish to the affected area. Polyurethane is tough to damage, but it cannot be dissolved and re-set like other finishes can. Stripping poly is also nearly impossible without extensive sanding. Sadly, the only way to repair a damaged poly finish is to remove it and start again. Poly is also susceptible to damage from UV light. UV exposure (like from a window) will cause it to turn yellow and become brittle. I am helping my housemate restore an 1892 Queen Anne Victorian in Cincinnati. The floors were coated with Poly long ago and they have not aged at all gracefully. The poly is brittle and is coming up in chunks and sheets in the front parlor. The wood floor is actually a quarter-inch thick strip floor laid over the original sometime around WWI. It is too thin to sand without risking going through it (we don't know if it has been sanded before and don't know how much of the quarter inch thickness is left). We are brushing the floor to remove loose Poly and waxing it. Clear as yellowed polyurethane? Dave |
Post# 351211 , Reply# 26   5/24/2009 at 11:20 (5,443 days old) by mixergal ()   |   | |
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I started typing a long reply to you Dave, but I think I'll put it in the Super forum as I have some questions for you about the resoration of hardwood floors. -Sherri |
Post# 351312 , Reply# 27   5/24/2009 at 16:52 (5,443 days old) by j2400 ()   |   | |
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[Sound of quiet sobbing in background] Happy endings always bring tears to my eyes. |
Post# 798312 , Reply# 30   12/9/2014 at 19:10 (3,418 days old) by GELaundry4ever (Nacogdoches, TX, USA)   |   | |
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GE should've never, ever, ever, ever ventured away from their classic filter-flo washers and dryers! They should've updated them! GE! You need to ditch the hidrowave washers and go back to the classic design! Shame on you GE!!!! |