Thread Number: 23104
QUESTIONS FOR THE 1-18 FRIGIDAIRE EXPERTS
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Post# 360652   6/30/2009 at 14:48 (5,405 days old) by soberleaf ()        

calling all you frigidaire guys, please help me out here!

i am still trying to get the hub nut off my 1-18 so i can put in the new water seal i bought off the web last week. i do not have the slugger wrench that was listed here but will buy it if i have to.

if i could get the pulsator shaft to drop down i could get my 1 1/2 inch deep socket on that hub nut. i have not had any luck in removing the agitator arm assembly. i have removed all bolts (3 of them) using a 12 point socket, 5/16 and 3/8 as the rollermatic service guide i downloaded said to do. but the arm will not budge. i also took out the phillip screw on the other end of the arm and removed the large diameter nut like ring thinking maybe the end of the shaft could then drop out of the arm. no luck. any tips would be appreciated very much!

thanks, pete


first i removed these two bolts





Post# 360653 , Reply# 1   6/30/2009 at 14:50 (5,405 days old) by soberleaf ()        
i removed this bolt

also, the one right above the left side end of the arm.

Post# 360654 , Reply# 2   6/30/2009 at 14:54 (5,405 days old) by soberleaf ()        
looking

at the agitator arm on the right side end i removed that phiilip screw that holds the nut ring tight. i have no idea what this ring nut does, it removed easily after the screw ws out. if anyone knows it's purpose please inform me.

Post# 360655 , Reply# 3   6/30/2009 at 14:59 (5,405 days old) by soberleaf ()        
i tried prying open

the gap where the bolts tightened up on with a large screwdriver thing maybe that would release the shaft and it could drop out but no luck.

i will wait to hear from you guys before i do anything else. this machine runs great and if i can get that new seal in it will be my main washer! in fact i'm displaying it in the living room next to my rollermatic and i'm going to leave the cabinet off and paint it bright colors and run a drain for it thru the floor. i also found a new water bellows for it and have ordered 3 of them for good measure! all that's holding me up is that hub nut!

should i just buy the slugger wrench or attempt to use a socket?


Post# 360656 , Reply# 4   6/30/2009 at 15:04 (5,405 days old) by soberleaf ()        
i'm going to paint the outer tub a nice bright color

for festivity and mount a peice of thin plexiglass over this origional schematic that is glued to the tub. the date on it is 8-14-78!

when i get it done it wiull not only be a novelty for my living room but a fully functional washer as well. i am mounting the control panel above it on the wall.

but that hub nut must come off!

thanks again for your help!


Post# 360661 , Reply# 5   6/30/2009 at 15:55 (5,405 days old) by kinnakeettom ()        

there was a special tool to remove the arm from the wheel.
looks like a tie rod end remover.channel locks on the hard edge will remove the arm from the shaft. to remove the entire assembly you are going to have to drop the pump. never liked this design due to mechanism adversely effected by moisture and 1st design spin roller screws would brake due to roller chatter.
I then learned to use a longer screw and you could remove the broken part without dropping the mechanism.
patience, grasshopper; is the key word with these washers.
also learning, to know when to stop, and scrap it.


Post# 360688 , Reply# 6   6/30/2009 at 17:38 (5,405 days old) by soberleaf ()        
thanks

i agree that it's best to quit awhile when frustrated. but hopefully i won't have to scrap this machine!

i just got the agitate arm off! i used a chisel to wedge in the slot where the bolts were and widen it a bit, the arm shaft dropped right out of the agitate wheel assembly. so i dropped the shaft down and can now get my socket on the hub nut. am going to take another break and continue on here.

thanks


Post# 360710 , Reply# 7   6/30/2009 at 19:56 (5,405 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
No no No. Put the bolts back in

jetcone's profile picture
Now that you are determined not to buy the wrench here is one way you can go, but you should have bought the wrench as we suggested.

Post# 360724 , Reply# 8   6/30/2009 at 21:06 (5,405 days old) by norfolksouthern ()        
Question for Jetcone:

Can you provide us a link on where to get this wrench? I'd like to add one to my tools. I have another 1-18 that's disassembled, except I can't get the nut to the agitator off. That's where I stopped. Any help there would be greatly appreciated! Also, I am looking for another agitator for that machine, as the one that's on it is busted a few places on the bottom above the black rubber part. Perhaps I could attempt to fix it with composits when I get it off, but I won't know until I get a better look.

NorfolkSouthern


Post# 360736 , Reply# 9   6/30/2009 at 21:45 (5,405 days old) by soberleaf ()        
well, success!

i got the agitate arm to drop as i said, i sued my 1 1/2 deep socket on the hub nut and it came right off!

i decided to completely strip it all down and took transmission, motor, everything off! here are some pics!


Post# 360739 , Reply# 10   6/30/2009 at 21:47 (5,405 days old) by soberleaf ()        
the hub is out

and so is the old seal

Post# 360741 , Reply# 11   6/30/2009 at 21:48 (5,405 days old) by soberleaf ()        
here is that nut

that took so long to get off

Post# 360742 , Reply# 12   6/30/2009 at 21:49 (5,405 days old) by soberleaf ()        
here is the

old water seal

Post# 360743 , Reply# 13   6/30/2009 at 21:50 (5,405 days old) by soberleaf ()        
transmission is out

and motor comes next

Post# 360744 , Reply# 14   6/30/2009 at 21:51 (5,405 days old) by soberleaf ()        
motor off

now i am going to clean and paint this outer tub

Post# 360748 , Reply# 15   6/30/2009 at 21:57 (5,405 days old) by soberleaf ()        
i have to repair some rust

where the opening is for the drain pump collection cup (back center of pic). it's not that bad yet but there was evidence of leakage in this area.

Post# 360749 , Reply# 16   6/30/2009 at 21:59 (5,405 days old) by soberleaf ()        
you can see the rust

problem better in this picture, in the back right corner. i've had worse problems with my dishwashers so i'm not worried about fixing it, it will be easy!

Post# 360752 , Reply# 17   6/30/2009 at 22:06 (5,405 days old) by soberleaf ()        
if i could find a bearing set

i would go ahead and replace the spin bearings while i am at it. so far no luck. if anyone knows of any please let me know. or are they a standard size i could get from a bearing company?

Post# 360753 , Reply# 18   6/30/2009 at 22:08 (5,405 days old) by soberleaf ()        
transmission is out,

next thing to take off is the pump

Post# 360754 , Reply# 19   6/30/2009 at 22:10 (5,405 days old) by soberleaf ()        
pump is out

and all pump parts and hoses are in the tub for safe keeping

Post# 360756 , Reply# 20   6/30/2009 at 22:13 (5,405 days old) by soberleaf ()        
here is the pump drain collection chamber

the top port where the pressure switch hose connects to is broken off but that will be an easy fix too. i will drill it out and put a tube in and cement it in good.

Post# 360757 , Reply# 21   6/30/2009 at 22:14 (5,405 days old) by soberleaf ()        
another view

of this chamber

Post# 360758 , Reply# 22   6/30/2009 at 22:17 (5,405 days old) by soberleaf ()        
another view of transmission

with the pump impeller still on. i assume it screws off the shaft but as yet have not tried it. will do that tomorrow. i have a new pump seal on order from a friend who is selling me some frigidaire parts.

Post# 360759 , Reply# 23   6/30/2009 at 22:19 (5,405 days old) by soberleaf ()        
motor is in great shape and runs

fine. i am going to oil bearings while it's off. anyone know where to get a belt should i ever need one?

Post# 360760 , Reply# 24   6/30/2009 at 22:23 (5,405 days old) by soberleaf ()        
all in all

i have learned a lot about how to take apart these great old washers! thanks to everyone along the way. and yes, JETCONE you are right i should have that wrench! i am going to buy it.

and NORFOLK, i will send you the website where you can get it
as well. actually it's listed in a post here, i will get the number and send it to you as well.

so i have a new bellows, new seal, if i could only find spin bearings it would be completely tuned up when i am thru with it!

gonna stop for the night and get organized and put all my tools away here, it's been a very busy day of washer fixing!


Post# 360764 , Reply# 25   6/30/2009 at 22:37 (5,405 days old) by norfolksouthern ()        

If I can restore the machine I bought from Goatfarmer, then this would teach me a lot about fixing these wonderful machines. Honestly, a 1-18 is not all that difficult to figure out. All the electronics are simple harnesses, and the cabinet as well as the tub assembly removes easily. Reassembly is intuitive, almost like working on a DD Kenmore as long as the transmission and pump assembly are properly in place.

I just need to find a way to get that agitator nut off in one piece, then my hope is that I can get to the other parts so I can give it the new seals it deserves. Well, a new agitator too. Why settle for just one, when I can have two instead!

Also: I can certainly use more info on the 1-18 timers, and how to rebuild them. Has anybody attempted a project like that?

NorfolkSouthern


Post# 360767 , Reply# 26   6/30/2009 at 22:44 (5,405 days old) by soberleaf ()        
i don't understand

why that top nut won't come loose if you put vice grips on the agitate shaft at the bottom of the shaft like i did and use a socket on that top nut. it's not that big of a nut and bolt, surely it will come loose if you hold the shaft from turning!

is the plastic pulsator agitator broken? i wasn't sure why you were looking for a new one.


Post# 360785 , Reply# 27   12/31/2069 at 18:00 (19,831 days old) by norfolksouthern ()        

There are some chunks broken off the bottom of the blue cone from the machine I got from goatfarmer, the one I'm hoping to rebuild. I think someone ran a belt with a heavy metal buckle through it, or maybe something else.

NorfolkSouthern


Post# 360800 , Reply# 28   12/31/2069 at 18:00 (19,831 days old) by soberleaf ()        
i will keep my eye out

for a 1-18 pulsator cone for you!

i'm going to take my time with this rebuild, spend the next few days cleaning parts and getting everything in order so when i go to put it all back together i will already have it in my mind how to do it.


Post# 360804 , Reply# 29   7/1/2009 at 03:19 (5,405 days old) by soberleaf ()        
question for jetcone

you said this is just a nut with a lock washer. does the pulsator shaft screw into the top of this walnut shaped "nut". if so is it left handed thread or right. i held the shaft with vice grips and tried to turn this "nut" with a small pipe wrench but nothing happened. am i doing something wrong. even though i don't need to remove the shaft from it i wanted to learn what it was all about for future reference.

enlighten me please!


Post# 360808 , Reply# 30   7/1/2009 at 04:28 (5,405 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture
That acorn shaped piece just threads into the agitate shaft.Right hand threads, IIRC. That one's pretty rusty, it may take some doing to get it loose.

Post# 360838 , Reply# 31   7/1/2009 at 09:16 (5,404 days old) by everythingold (Grand Rapids, Michigan)        
PITA PITA PITA

everythingold's profile picture
Kudos for your perserverence Pete. These machine are not fun to work on, but the end product is amazing. I have an in the box bearing. Matt

Post# 360886 , Reply# 32   7/1/2009 at 12:11 (5,404 days old) by soberleaf ()        
thanks goatfarmer, thanks matt

going to get that "acorn" peice off today, just so i can say i did it.

matt, i'll e mail you directly as i would like to buy that bearing from you.

yea, this has been fun and a good learning experience. i'm keeping my eye out for another 1-18 so GOATFARMER or MATT if you get any please let me know. would like a spare!


Post# 360894 , Reply# 33   7/1/2009 at 12:33 (5,404 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
I personally haven't pulled a 1-18 bearing, but they look 'standard' and, more than likely, could be crossed over to an alternate. Post the number that is stamped off the upper bearing and I'll see if I can find an alternate through Grainger, etc.

There are two bearnings - and upper and a lower. I'd hazzard a guess that they would need to be pressed out/pressed in from the looks of it.


Post# 360898 , Reply# 34   7/1/2009 at 12:40 (5,404 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        
If it ain't broke...

gansky1's profile picture
There was a special tool from Robinair sold to help remove the agitate shaft coupler from the shaft and the agitate arm. If you don't need to remove it for replacement, leave it alone. You really don't want to dig up another problem with an NLA part that doesn't need to be disturbed. The tool was used to hold the body of the coupler and then a wrench to un-thread it from the end of the shaft.

If you remove the bearings, you should be able to get them at your local bearing/machine parts supply house - see your yellow pages. The one you pictured looks like a New Departure or similar brand bearing and there are numbers along the sides that will indicate the sizes for replacement. Even if the numbers are not fully legible, take the bearing to the shop with you (as you should in any case) and the salesperson can measure it inside and out and get the replacements for you. It would be shocking if this weren't a standard-sized bearing as custom bearings are very expensive and when profit is the motive in building appliances (all evidence having been to the contrary at GM Frigidaire) standard parts were utilized whenever possible.

Best of luck!



Post# 360905 , Reply# 35   7/1/2009 at 13:09 (5,404 days old) by soberleaf ()        
thanks again

i've learned a lot in the last day tearing this machine apart! i know it will run again, it ran great except for the water leak when i got it last month.

i might not do the bearings yet but if EVERYTHINGOLD has a set i will most probably still buy them. the spin bearings on this machine are noisy but i may just run with it for now. i can always take it apart again later if i need to, now that i know how. and that hub nut will not be as hard to loosen next time around. i am probably going to pick up an extra water seal while i'm at it. i have one but there are more out there that i found.

i will do a post when i start putting it all back together later this month!

thanks


Post# 361510 , Reply# 36   7/3/2009 at 21:48 (5,402 days old) by dnastrau (Lords Valley, PA)        
Oiling the motor: SAE 20 electric motor oil

Based on what others have said here, make sure to only use SAE 20 oil (non-detergent) meant for electric motors. 3-in-1 makes it for this purpose and is sold in blue and white cans (see link.) Best wishes on a successful project completion!

Andrew S.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO dnastrau's LINK



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