Thread Number: 23201
Turquoisedude strips.... Westy L5 cabinet
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Post# 362101   7/6/2009 at 14:11 (5,404 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

turquoisedude's profile picture
Well, I started to anyway. After spending a few hours grinding the several layers old paint off the top of the Westy (someone had brush-painted it at least twice!), hubby pointed out that maybe I didn't need to take it right down to the bare metal...
What is the recommened approach for an appliance cabinet refinish? Sand the old finish just enough to rough it then prime and paint or get right down to metal??
After yesterday's attempt, I am already scared of trying to take on the GE Clothes Conditioner to turn it turquoise!





Post# 362104 , Reply# 1   7/6/2009 at 14:22 (5,404 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        
Hmmmmm...

toploader55's profile picture
Seems to me you'd want that Westy Slant Dryer that's here on the Cape to match your Washer... Eddie

Post# 362113 , Reply# 2   7/6/2009 at 14:55 (5,404 days old) by macboy91si (Frankfort, KY)        
Sanding

macboy91si's profile picture
Well that depends, if you really want to start it right, then I WOULD take it to bare metal. You really need to make sure it's smooth and that you haven't gouged it by going that far in. A good primer coat however and some finer sandpaper and you can get that smoothness back. Bare metal is a lot of work, I usually just muck up the existing paint and get a good smooth adhering surface. You couldn't pull what you've done off on newer appliances, you'd go through the metal :P

Just curious, what did you use to remove the paint?

As long as you're committed to the project you'll do just fine. I have a Maytag dryer that's going to need some major bodywork myself, it's been painted over a few times and there are pits in the paint all the way down to the metal.


-Tim


Post# 362120 , Reply# 3   7/6/2009 at 15:08 (5,404 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        
Westy dryer on the Cape

turquoisedude's profile picture
Oh, Eddie, don't tempt me! You KNOW I want it... BUT, I am going to be strong since it's a later model than the washer I have. The worst is that I did see the matching dryer about 2 years ago in a thrift store and I thought "HMPF - Like I'll ever be able to find a matching washer to that". Hindsight is 20-20...

Post# 362123 , Reply# 4   7/6/2009 at 15:12 (5,404 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        
Sanding

turquoisedude's profile picture
Tim, I used a piece of fairly coarse sandpaper on a disc attachment for the electric drill. I did notice that the metal is 'swirled' in some places where, but I figure that a couple of primer and paint coats will fix that. The lid that I sanded was probably the worst part of the machine; despite evidence of serious water leaks over the years, the lower front and door panels are pretty good!
Any advice on other tools I could use and what grade of sandpaper I should be using??
The Maytag sounds like a big project! Are you going to keep the original colour or change it??


Post# 362133 , Reply# 5   7/6/2009 at 15:57 (5,404 days old) by macboy91si (Frankfort, KY)        
Tools and the Maytags

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I don't generally use tools unless I have to, I learned to work with hard tools when I was younger and it sort of stuck with me. Once the primer coats start going on, I start with a 200 range and work up to wet-sanding 800-1000 depending on the finish I want. The little yellow Maytag A-50 was the labor of 800 grit hand wet-sanding with about 5-7 coats of "Bauhaus Gold" Krylon. No wax or top coat, I think it turned out good and it's tough. Everyone I think has a different approach though.

The dryer is a Maytag DE-50 dryer. It was installed on a boat for years and appears to have at least 2 coats on it. Original color of the machine is white, as was the matching A-50 I picked up with it. The washer cleaned up pretty well, so I think I'll leave it white. I'll have to take it apart pretty far to paint it, so it's been on the back burner. Mechanically it works wonders, I discovered it's a mini "Halo of Heat" model which I think is soooo cool. Does a full load in under 60 minutes on 110v. Here is a pic of the 1st A-50 I acquired, it was originally white, but a well beaten and smacked around white. I'll post a pic of the dryer a little later when I unload my camera.


-Tim

Also there's a link to the progress of painting the A-50





CLICK HERE TO GO TO macboy91si's LINK


Post# 362140 , Reply# 6   7/6/2009 at 16:26 (5,404 days old) by whirlaway (Hampton Virginia)        
Paint stripping

Automotive liquid paint stripper is terrific,it will remove several layers of paint then after you have wiped off all paint clean with thinner and a very fine steel wool or sandpaper you get a beautiful finish to ptimer and paint,Ive done a car and 2 wahers like this thet both did very nicely.I did 2 cars the other way with a drill and sandpaper,it wirked but what a job. Thanks Bobby,,No swirls with the paint stripper.

Post# 362159 , Reply# 7   7/6/2009 at 17:23 (5,404 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
How far down are you going to tear the machine apart? If you're taking the entire machine apart, I would take the parts to a sandblaster. If you want to powder coat it, most powder coating outfits will sandblast as SOP before powder coating since the surface must be 100% clean and free of dirt, rust, oils, and previous paints, ect.

Post# 362185 , Reply# 8   7/6/2009 at 20:04 (5,404 days old) by macboy91si (Frankfort, KY)        
Maytag DE-50 Dryer

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The above mentioned pic of the Maytag DE-50. Thing looks like it was shot with a BB gun or buckshot nearby or something. It's odd, the washer was nowhere near that bad. Luckily it works like a gem. The mechanics of both the washer and dryer were spotless, neither have seen much to any use.

Enjoy

-Tim



Post# 362222 , Reply# 9   7/6/2009 at 23:22 (5,404 days old) by alr2903 (TN)        

Turquoisedude, while you have that westy taken apart, could you please post pictures of the "spider", bearings, and the suspension parts of the machine. I would like to see how these were made 50 years ago, and they seem to work 50 years later. Only if you have time, and have the camera out. I am enjoying watching your project. Thanks alr2903


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