Thread Number: 24078
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Post# 374355   8/24/2009 at 15:28 (5,352 days old) by lebron (Minnesota)   |   | |
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When I used the machine in the link, I noticed that when the machine was loaded full, it had a tendency to skip the neutral drain. It didn't do it every time so I didn't worry about it. Couple months later, the machine won't work. So I checked and the coupler is shot. I ordered a new one and will replace it. But what do you guys think could be making it skip neutral drain?
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Post# 374381 , Reply# 1   8/24/2009 at 17:48 (5,352 days old) by laundromat (Hilo, Hawaii)   |   | |
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The coupler waring out usualy causes the unit to not stop and drain prior to the spin but go right to spin and drain which is not the correct way it works.Once the coupler is replaced that should stop the machine from going into a direct spin and drain and the agitation will stop and the trans goes into idle during the drainage.One to two minutes of draining then the trans goes into spin.The overloading and not enough water duing agitation is a common problem that causes the PLASTIC coupler to ware out then fail.It doesn't matter what brand top loading washer it is.Overloading is always an issue because most people who have top loaders overload them and cause these failiers and break downs.What I recomend for top loading owners is to wait until the washer begins to agitate. If the clothes are not going from top to bottom within the first 60 seconds,it hasn't been set for the right water level or it's been overloaded.Here,it happens constantly with our commercial Speed Queens.They strain and whince during agitation and the spin is slower from either too much suds or too many garments.I just overhauled one and the trans was shot.It cost around $200 for the new trans and took about 2 hours to replace.As the use and care books tell us,LOAD CLOTHES LOOSELY INTO TUB.That does not mean "Pack it full".Clothes never get properly washed,rinsed and spun out properly if the machine is oveloaded.I can't stress that enough.Washing clothes using an automatic washer is not magic but mechanical using delicate parts that can break easily if they're strained.They get strain from overheating and friction caused by overloading and/or oversudsing.Mixed loads are the best especialy towels and bed linnens.That helps to keep the machine from going off ballance
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Post# 374394 , Reply# 2   8/24/2009 at 19:08 (5,352 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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If the neutral drain issue continues when you replace the coupling, then the transmission has issues. |
Post# 374513 , Reply# 3   8/25/2009 at 01:25 (5,352 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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The drive coupler has no effect on neutral drain. That process takes place entirely inside the transmission. The parts involved can/do wear over time, resulting in failure of the neutral drain shift and instead going directly into spin. There is a Neutral Drain Repair Kit available to replace the affected parts.
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Post# 374544 , Reply# 4   8/25/2009 at 07:50 (5,352 days old) by runematic (southcentral pa)   |   | |
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Post# 374764 , Reply# 8   8/25/2009 at 22:46 (5,351 days old) by appnut (TX)   |   | |
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Jed, my 1986 LK would do the correct timer pause at the end of agitate and then start the drain phase but allso start spinning. It didn't do this for a number of years. But as time wore on, I noticed it would do this on only the very first load of wash I did for the day. So, I started putting the machine on a 4 or 6 minute normal speed spin and let the transmission "warm up" so to speak. Then the machine would behave normally--mind you I would do 3 to 4 loads at a time and not lolly gag around.
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