Thread Number: 24636
Run Asko dryer 220 off Asko 220 washer that is plugged in? 		[Down to Last]

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Post# 381696   9/27/2009 at 10:59 (5,317 days old) by tuxedopoodle ()        

Hi, all. You all helped me get a new plug onto my Asko 10505 washer and it's all plugged in. I may rent to someone who needs the "matching" dryer. It is still in another residence and is hardwired into the wall. If I move it to stack on top of the washer, can I have someone reattach the wire somewhere into the 220 washer, to get power? I don't see any openings on the back of the washer. I have an extra 110 receptacle right behind where the dryer would be. Can that be turned into 220 and if so, how would I get a wire and plug onto the Asko dryer? How do I get the 220 detached from the wall in the other residence? Is there something unsafe about what I'm suggesting?

(What's wrong with a clothes line, I ask?!)

Thank you in advance!

Helen




Post# 381774 , Reply# 1   9/27/2009 at 20:38 (5,317 days old) by toggleswitch2 ()        

Hi Helen, *WAVES*

All of these are just my one little limited opinion.


1- The wire stays where the dryer is since it is part of the house and the hosue wiring.

2-Yes IMO, you can run the Euro W & D off one North American 220v 30a line (which is a standard US dryer line).

3- Most likely yes, the outlet behind the washer is a 110v 20a line that can be converted to a 220v 30a line. Even if it has only two (instead of three) conductors/wires plus and a ground/earth.

4- The cord and plug for your dryer will depend on the outlet you have, and from where you get the required 220v power.

5- To detach the power cable from the hard-wired dryer:
a- Start the dryer and be sure it heats.
b- Disconnect the power. That means there are TWO circuit-brekers(usually externally connected/attached to each other) or TWO fuses). DISCONNECT OR TURN-OFF BOTH.
c- Reattempt to start dryer; should not turn and should not heat. Then and ONLY then should an attempt be made to disconnect it from the power source.

Be sure there is no metal jewelry/watch being worm.
You must be in socks and shoes.
If the floor is wet or damp you (the one doing electrical work, of course) should be standing on a DRY WOODEN board.
If you are not 100% sure of that you are doing, you should have one hand in your back pocket and work with ONLY ONE HAND- the other one. This may save your life in that you don't want current entering one hand, crossing your heart and exiting via the other one.

Once disconneted, you will want to "Safe it up" by coveirng the exposed wires with either electrical tape a wire-nut or both then suspend the wire high up away ffrom the reach of children. THIS IS ONLY A TEMPORARY MEASURE AND SHOULD BE FIXED WITH A JUCNTION BOX OR A JUNCTION BOX AND AN OUTLET.

Please feel free to contact me offline at Toggleswith9@aol.com and we'll attend to this one-on-one.

I may be inclined to do this for you (for free) if your zip is not too far from my zip.

BTW have you considered a Miele splitter-box such that both machines can be powered from one dryer outlet?

:-)

Best regards,
Steve.



Post# 381930 , Reply# 2   9/28/2009 at 16:21 (5,316 days old) by toggleswitch2 ()        

That's supposed to be Toggleswitch9@aol.com

OY!

Post# 381999 , Reply# 3   9/29/2009 at 06:34 (5,316 days old) by toggleswitch2 ()        

Most likely yes, the outlet behind the washer is a 110v 20a line that can be converted to a 220v 30a line. Even if it has only two (instead of three) conductors/wires plus and a ground/earth.


Actually it can most probably be converted to a 220v 20a line, not a 30a one. This also depends on if your machines need a neutral. (Probably not).

Post# 382014 , Reply# 4   9/29/2009 at 08:32 (5,316 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

foraloysius's profile picture
IIRC the dryer should have an outlet on the back for the washer so you only need one 220V outlet (30Amps).


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