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Thread Number: 2563
101P Update |
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Post# 72382 , Reply# 1 7/5/2005 at 16:45 (6,862 days old) by Gyrafoam  (Wytheville, VA) |
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That is such good news that you are making progress with the restoration. Please post some photo's of it when you can. Do you have a spare torque spring?----if not better get one and put it on the shelf-----I hope that is not the spin problem.Best wishes! -Steve | ||
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Post# 72402 , Reply# 2 7/5/2005 at 20:12 (6,862 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis) |
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Hi Geoff, the terrific "scream" might have been the pump roller against the belt. Are you able to turn the pump roller by hand easily? As for the T-Key, that's a pain to remove and reinstall, but it can be done. Also if its worn on the side that catches the spring, you can turn it around and its good for another 20 years. | ||
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Post# 72487 , Reply# 4 7/6/2005 at 08:34 (6,862 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis) |
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Hi Geoff, yes you need long Needle Nose pliers to be able to reach the T-Key, and yes you have to line up two holes in order to properly install the T-Key. Where is scream this sound coming from? When you turn the clutch by hand does it sound like its coming from inside the clutch or up further along the spin shaft? I suspect that you might have to pull the tub/tranny out as a unit and inspect if there are signs of a water leakage down the spin shaft. The outer tub boot seal might be bad. In the AMP, just like the early Norge washers, the transmission is literally bolted to the bottom of the spin tub. Both pull out together as a unit once you remove the clutch, brake and a few other components. There should be step by step instructions in your repair manual. I did this once on my AMP and I took pictures, I will see if I can find them. | ||
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Post# 72496 , Reply# 6 7/6/2005 at 10:05 (6,861 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis) |
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Geoff, no if I remember correctly you do not need to remove the agitator to get the entire tub/tranny assembly out. All parts are removed from underneath the machine, then the tub, agitator, tranny get pulled up and out together. But if the sound is not coming from the spin shaft, and it is the clutch making that noise, you wont have to worry about pulling out the entire mechanim. Yes the early AMP's had a "dry" clutch, by 1954 they were using the "wet" clutch. There should be an oil plug in the bottom center of the clutch. While thick Maytag tranny oil would work the best, you can also try adding a few tablespoons of air-compressor oil (available at Ace Hardware). I would only put one tablespoon at a time into the clutch and let the motor run between each tablespoon until the sound goes away. I found the less oil in the oil clutch the better the machine will pickup during spin. | ||
| Post# 72520 , Reply# 7 7/6/2005 at 13:33 (6,861 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS) | ||
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Thanks, Robert ... I'll try to start checking it out tonight. I wonder if the transmission oil I have for the wringer models would work on this machine? I'm sure I can still get a pint or so from the dealers. You can still buy the T-key so I might be lucky!! :-) | ||
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