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Thread Number: 25833
Trying to identify an older Whirlpool washer |
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Post# 396713 11/30/2009 at 23:41 (5,257 days old) by brianl  (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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My grandmother had this older Whirlpool washer from around late 1970's to the early 1980's that I really liked but she got rid of it in the early 2000's. It had the same opening shape as a Kenmore with the flat part in the back and the rounded the rest of the way sort of like the one in this video. Attached a link to a video of what the tub opening looked like. The top of the agitator had a chrome looking top with the Whirlpool logo and the agitator was off-white. I think the buttons were also chrome colored rectangular buttons that were longer vertically and were raised in the middle/center part. I cannot remember much more about it but I am really trying to see if I can find another cause that one was a beast and worked for over 20 years until it did not spin anymore. I had pretty much no say and she got rid of it. I kick myself for not going out that night and taking it lol. Brian CLICK HERE TO GO TO brianl's LINK | ||
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Post# 396755 , Reply# 1 12/1/2009 at 05:30 (5,256 days old) by easyspindry (Winston-Salem, NC) |
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I'd say late 1950's to early 1960's. GE had the first filter flo in 1956, and it wasn't long before the Whirlpool group had their version of a filter. I've used a Whirlpool just like this one, and it was in the late 50's. Jerry Gay | ||
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Post# 396786 , Reply# 2 12/1/2009 at 11:26 (5,256 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Not sure about the waterfall though | ||
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Post# 396795 , Reply# 3 12/1/2009 at 11:56 (5,256 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Does this washer look familiar to anyone?
I am currently awaiting a better picture from the seller if they have one, but can anyone tell me the particular model this one is? It has the chrome buttons from what I can see and the back panel looks similar, but I can't be sure its the one I am looking for until I get an inside pic. If this is the one, I am definitely going for it.
CLICK HERE TO GO TO brianl's LINK on Newjersey Craigslist | ||
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Post# 396800 , Reply# 4 12/1/2009 at 12:10 (5,256 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey) |
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That is a 1984ish Whirlpool Supreme washer......it is the belt drive design with the opening your looking for.....should be Large capacity with the double duty agitator with the bottom baffles....and should also have the self cleaning filter attached to the tub under the agitator.... I had the matching set years ago, bought brand new, and changed the pump, and the tub cover to add the waterfall lint filter....was just a preference | ||
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Post# 396802 , Reply# 5 12/1/2009 at 12:12 (5,256 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey) |
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Post# 396803 , Reply# 6 12/1/2009 at 12:13 (5,256 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey) |
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Post# 396804 , Reply# 7 12/1/2009 at 12:20 (5,256 days old) by appliguy (Oakton Va.) |
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The washer in the picture above is a crica 1983 Whirlpool Su
My mom got that same washer in mid to late 1983. It was eventually moved to our summer house in 1989 where it lasted until 2007. Also the Whirlpool washer in the abouve video is owned by RickR and it is a 1956 Whirlpool Imperial. If I remember correctly when he restored it he added the filtering system because he said he always liked the waterfall filter (am I correct Rick?). In actuallity Whirlpool did not offer a filter until 1957. PAT COFFEY
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Post# 396806 , Reply# 8 12/1/2009 at 12:23 (5,256 days old) by appliguy (Oakton Va.) |
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Oops Yogitunes beat me to the post.....LOL | ||
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Post# 396822 , Reply# 9 12/1/2009 at 13:40 (5,256 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey) |
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Post# 396851 , Reply# 10 12/1/2009 at 17:11 (5,256 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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The washer looks very similar to Yogitunes's washer but her agitator was off-white and had a chrome looking top. But yes that tub shape is exactly it. Not sure if it was an Imperial or a Supreme model name, but my granny does not recall. Thank you everyone so far, we will soon find out if it is mine if the seller gets back to me.
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| Post# 396853 , Reply# 11 12/1/2009 at 17:13 (5,256 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA) | ||
Whirlpool | ||
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Post# 396864 , Reply# 12 12/1/2009 at 18:05 (5,256 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey) |
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| Post# 396903 , Reply# 13 12/1/2009 at 21:12 (5,256 days old) by supremewhirlpol () | ||
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BrianL, Are either of these machines what you are looking for? 
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| Post# 396905 , Reply# 14 12/1/2009 at 21:13 (5,256 days old) by supremewhirlpol () | ||
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inside1 
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| Post# 396906 , Reply# 15 12/1/2009 at 21:13 (5,256 days old) by supremewhirlpol () | ||
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machine 2 
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| Post# 396907 , Reply# 16 12/1/2009 at 21:14 (5,256 days old) by supremewhirlpol () | ||
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inside2 
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Post# 396917 , Reply# 17 12/1/2009 at 21:30 (5,256 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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The one on the left!
That is exactly what the back panel looked like and the same tub opening, etc... The only thing different with that one you have is hers did not have the brown marble-ish effect on it. But otherwise that looks exactly it! Is that an Imperial?? She definitely had it in the 80's already as I was learning to wash the clothes with that washer. She gave me a wooden spoon and told me I should push the clothes down and "help" the washer. She saved all the laundry for when my mother dropped me off. Kept me occupied all day. I would stand on the chair to "help" it and then drag the chair over to the kitchen sink to watch it drain, and then back for the rinse cycle. I was easy to please as a young kid lol. | ||
| Post# 396996 , Reply# 19 12/2/2009 at 08:49 (5,255 days old) by rickr (.) | ||
1956 Whirlpool Imperial | ||
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Post# 397110 , Reply# 20 12/2/2009 at 17:10 (5,255 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions) |
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66? | ||
| Post# 397141 , Reply# 21 12/2/2009 at 18:29 (5,255 days old) by supremewhirlpol () | ||
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Hey Kenny, Is that one yours? Very nice!! | ||
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Post# 397515 , Reply# 22 12/4/2009 at 14:59 (5,253 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions) |
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Post# 397525 , Reply# 23 12/4/2009 at 16:08 (5,253 days old) by revvinkevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land) |
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Post# 397564 , Reply# 24 12/4/2009 at 19:08 (5,253 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions) |
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| Post# 397565 , Reply# 25 12/4/2009 at 19:15 (5,253 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod) | ||
Wow. | ||
| Post# 397590 , Reply# 26 12/4/2009 at 22:00 (5,253 days old) by wigwag (San Diego) | ||
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Imperial 70 maybe If it didn't have that marbelinzing on it perhaps it was one of the last belt drives produced like my mothers 85 Imperial 70, the console was the same minus the faux wood grain... | ||
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Post# 398050 , Reply# 27 12/7/2009 at 16:06 (5,250 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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You know the more I think about it, it is possible it had the woodgrain, but I just cannot recall. So ultimately I would say it looks like Post# 396903 with the same agitator as Post# 397564, only a cream color. Definitely had it by the early 80's. By the way Kenny, what happened to the tub in that tub shot of your Whirlpool?
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Post# 398053 , Reply# 28 12/7/2009 at 16:53 (5,250 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions) |
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Post# 398425 , Reply# 29 12/8/2009 at 22:43 (5,249 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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I think I found the washer.
Saw this while browsing through Craig's List this eve.
CLICK HERE TO GO TO brianl's LINK on Hudsonvalley Craigslist | ||
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Post# 398429 , Reply# 30 12/8/2009 at 22:55 (5,249 days old) by appliguy (Oakton Va.) |
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That is a circa 1983 Whirlpool Supreme | ||
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Post# 398431 , Reply# 31 12/8/2009 at 22:59 (5,249 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Sounds about right!
It was around when I was 4ish in 1985 so I bet that one is it. Not a bad price either. Either way, with or without the fake wood grain, I am gonna go for this washer. Probably about as close as I will get. If it is available, that means I am gonna have to give up my Hotpoint. Needs a couple parts though.
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Post# 398733 , Reply# 32 12/10/2009 at 08:09 (5,247 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Some good and bad news...
This is the e-mail I got from the Craigslist seller last night. "Hi, yes I still have it, last time I tried it, it filled up to the top, then didn't stop filling. I think it may have froze from sitting outside. Its inside now, if it starts working again ill email you." What could have happened to it since he left it outside for 2 1/2 weeks that would cause it to not stop filling? Also, do you think some type of damage could have happened to the washer permanently from sitting out that might cause other issues? Thanks, Brian | ||
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Post# 398842 , Reply# 34 12/10/2009 at 20:28 (5,247 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Got another update
Looks like the washer was left outside for a couple of weeks, and even after sitting in a warm garage, (which probably should have happened in the 1st place), it still is acting up. Apparently leaking he said. In light of this, it looks like he is just going to give it to me. I have to hammer out the pickup details and verify what he said on the phone (I was in a loud place). Any of the Jersey or NY locals want to take a trip with me? For the locals, I am in the Bergen County area. Also that means I will be most likely needing to dispose of my Hotpoint washer, which needs a timer and probably an agitator. Anyone interested in that, would be welcome to it. Brian | ||
| Post# 399234 , Reply# 35 12/12/2009 at 14:35 (5,245 days old) by retroville3 () | ||
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Sure I will take it | ||
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Post# 399243 , Reply# 36 12/12/2009 at 15:17 (5,245 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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The Whirlpool Challenge
It seems to leak like a sieve, but I cannot seem to locate the leak. It seems to come from underneath the outer tub. There is this rubber seal that comes from the bottom of the outer tub through this metal plate onto the underside for a little sump canister to catch debris before it makes it to the pump. (Upper left corner of pic.) I wonder if that rubber seal inside the outer tub is leaking? The water is leaking out between the plate that holds the outer tub, and the actual tub. I will be attaching some pics. Have to take some more later.
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Post# 399244 , Reply# 37 12/12/2009 at 15:18 (5,245 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Post# 399245 , Reply# 38 12/12/2009 at 15:19 (5,245 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Post# 399246 , Reply# 39 12/12/2009 at 15:20 (5,245 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Post# 399247 , Reply# 40 12/12/2009 at 15:21 (5,245 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Post# 399248 , Reply# 41 12/12/2009 at 15:22 (5,245 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Post# 399249 , Reply# 42 12/12/2009 at 15:22 (5,245 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Post# 399250 , Reply# 43 12/12/2009 at 15:23 (5,245 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Post# 399251 , Reply# 44 12/12/2009 at 15:24 (5,245 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Post# 399259 , Reply# 45 12/12/2009 at 16:03 (5,245 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC) |
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Brian - Sounds like you need to pull the outer tub out of the machine. It was very common for these to leak from about 10-years old onward. When you pull the tub, you'll need a 383727 centerpost gasket, and a 93553 tub drain grommet. They are both still readily available from Whirlpool, especially 383727 as one goes into every direct drive washer in new production. The 93553 was still current about 6-8 months ago. You should also get either a tub repair kit for the four mounting bolts, 76673, OR four 21365 tub washers (they are PRICEY now). If you pull the tub and it comes out unscathed, installing those parts will re-seal it for another machine's life-time. I'll take you through the work step by step if you'd like, and I am sure others here can too, but will save the typing for when you're ready. Be advised that the tub has a couple delicate spots that don't age well sometimes, especially around the centerpost area, so handle with care. Gordon | ||
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Post# 399260 , Reply# 46 12/12/2009 at 16:10 (5,245 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC) |
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I meant to mention...the rest of the machine looks pretty good. It's not spoiled by centerpost bilge spewing all over everything, which is a nice sign. The clamps on the manifold trap (button or sediment trap they were sometimes called) should be replaced and might even snap when you take pliers to them. Check the pump when you have a moment - it could be contributing to leakage too. If so, a 285317 pump either an original NOS Whirlpool pump OR a Supco LP115 will work. I dislike aftermarket parts, but I've been trying an LP115 just to satisfy my curiosity and it seems to mimick the function of a true WP part exactly and I would not hesitate to use one if the price and location were right. Whirlpool quit making belt-drive pumps a few years back. The original two and four port pumps are now imported from Brastemp, but since they never used the 285317 type, it went NLA even though it was the most commonly used pump in production the last four or five years. Gordon | ||
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Post# 399263 , Reply# 47 12/12/2009 at 18:12 (5,245 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Thanks for all the info. I did have a question though. When you said "You should also get either a tub repair kit for the four mounting bolts, 76673, OR four 21365 tub washers..." why either or and not both? I found how to open the lid to access everything, but not to sure where to take it apart to get the outer tub off. I noticed it does not do the waterfall spray. It does more of a jet spray to the right and a slight rainfall to the left. Any information on the pulling of the machine apart that you can give me Gordon would be greatly appreciated and I will get those parts ordered right away. Thanks, Brian | ||
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Post# 399269 , Reply# 48 12/12/2009 at 18:22 (5,245 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Model Information | ||
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Post# 399270 , Reply# 49 12/12/2009 at 18:25 (5,245 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Correction! | ||
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Post# 399280 , Reply# 52 12/12/2009 at 18:42 (5,245 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Post# 399284 , Reply# 53 12/12/2009 at 18:59 (5,245 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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What's everyone thoughts on using 3rd party parts? I agree with Gordon on using Whirlpool parts when possible, but do you think it would matter on such smaller items like these tub washers. I only ask because the price is a $2 difference per washer and I want to do it right, but I don't know if it is necessary to go genuine all the time to do so. Brian CLICK HERE TO GO TO brianl's LINK | ||
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Post# 399285 , Reply# 54 12/12/2009 at 19:11 (5,245 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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If At All Possible Try for Whirlpool/FSP Parts
But look at various sources as prices vary. Sears PartsDirect probably will have much if not most of what you need, but they do tend to be rather on the high side. Whirlpool stops selling parts for it's appliances about ten or so years after the unit ceases production. However in many, many cases parts from one series/model of machine were/are still used in others, so the part will live on, however it may have subbed to a different part number. PartsSelect and the rest are often "middlemen" but then again so are most other appliance parts sources. Places that have been in business for ages such as physical brick appliance repair/parts shops by virtue of aged inventory have parts that are NLA from Whirlpool. One can put Sears Parts Direct in that section. As stated before, once Whirlpool stops making/selling a part (NLA), you are going to have to hunt them down from someone with old inventory. IIRC, from the last time one spoke with a *real* Whirlpool tech over the telephone at the customer service number, once parts are due to be "NLAed", Whirlpool sells them off to suppliers/vendors. Clearing their shelves as you will. First go to Whirlpool's website and see if the schematic and parts listing are still available. If not "Google" "sharedWhirlpool.com" as that is how one found ours. After having part numbers in question, my advice is to punch them into Google and see what comes up. Different vendors often have various prices so you can shop and compare. Also try places like "Armstrong Obsolete Parts", as well. If you need a new pump, have one FSP NIB unit, but not sure if it is for your unit. | ||
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Post# 399286 , Reply# 55 12/12/2009 at 19:15 (5,245 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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From One Who Just Went Through This
Had two sets of "tub repair kits"/76673 parts. One was FSP the other something else, and to my eye there wasn't a difference between quality. Then again one did not do the install, but was picky about what one had put into the machines, so gave repairman the "FSP" set and put the other back in my stash. May sound like "Mrs. Vanderbilt", but two bits isn't that much of a difference, and huge repair bills have come out of failure of a one dollar part. | ||
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Post# 399289 , Reply# 56 12/12/2009 at 19:31 (5,245 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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And Another Piece of Advice
Don't just order the tub gasket and repair kit/bolts. You aren't going to know what is going on until you get inside your machine, so might as well have on hand any seals or such that *may* be required. Better to have not needed a part than to find out you do and then the whole process must come to a halt. You may also wish to replace any hose clamps with "C" clamps. Water leaking from a washer's tub can cause all sorts of problems, much of which you won't know until she's opened up. L. | ||
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Post# 399395 , Reply# 57 12/13/2009 at 11:25 (5,244 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC) |
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Brian - The 76673 tub repair kit and the 21365 washers are either/or parts. The repair kit installs in the same place that the 21365 rubber washer does, however the kit is designed to cover a much larger area and to elminate rusty holes near the orignal 21365 washers. You only need one repair kit, and considering the price now for the 21365s, I'd just get a kit and use that. As to where to get them - there are only a few aftermarket sources of parts, Gemline (now SUPCO), EXACT Fit, RobertShaw (I think now a defunct line), maybe a couple others. FSP is Whirlpool's name for their parts, like Motorcraft is for Ford, Mopar for Chrysler, etc. There are LOTS of FSP distributors out there, so if you find a seller with FSP parts that you like, take your pick. Sears is a good place to get stuff as Laundress said, mostly for their convenience but they can be expensive. They probably have a parts diagram online for your machine. For your machine, definitely get a 383727, a 93553, and a 76673. The only other seals you could need are spin tube (bearing) and agitator shaft seals, and unless they are really gross when you get in there (I doubt they are based on the look of the goods underneath the baseplate), I'd not bother with them yet. In fact, I wouldn't touch anything underneath until you have the leak fixed, if you are already satisfied with the machine's mechanical operation. To change the bearing-spin tube seals you will need to pull the upper spin bearing, and that's a beetch of a job for a beginner. Let me know when you have the parts! Gordon | ||
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Post# 399464 , Reply# 58 12/13/2009 at 17:10 (5,244 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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OK, this may sound dumb but...
In the 1st paragraph, you were mentioning to get the 21365's, but then I see you said to definitely get the 76673. Just want to double-check to be sure which kit I should get. The 76673 kit comes with 25 bolts/washers. Is that true, because I thought there were only like 4 tub bolts? Also I think I should get the 21366 spanner nut? If so, do you know the spanner nut tool part number off-hand? Brian CLICK HERE TO GO TO brianl's LINK | ||
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Post# 399468 , Reply# 59 12/13/2009 at 17:32 (5,244 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Get The 76673
Yes, you probably won't need all the nuts, bolts and rubber seals (we only used three out of the four in our kit), but at least you will have extras. You can keep the spares around for future use or pass them on to someone else who needs them. Are you sure there are 25? My FSP/Whirlpool tub repair kit only had the four. *Think* the point Gordon is trying to make is that while the tub repair kit contains bolts, seals, and such, the other only contains the bolts. If you have rust spots and or small holes around where the original bolts now are, you are going to need those large rubber seals to deal with them. Again see Robert's excellent post on the Whirlpool restoration for a visual. As for the spanner nut wrench, you are going to need it if you don't have one that will fit Whirlpool washers already. Again see Robert's Whirlpool restoration pics for a visual. Using the wrong sized wrench at best will not give you the grip needed to get the thing off, or at worse, you will end up damaging the nut to the point no wrench, even the proper sized one will work. I'd have some WD-40 or "Liquid Wrench" on had as well. Almost 100% if the time that tub nut is going to be a PITA to get off (they rarely shift easily), and is going to require much banging, clanging, and sheer force to loosen. Only thing to require equal effort will probably be lifting the outer tub. | ||
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Post# 399469 , Reply# 60 12/13/2009 at 17:36 (5,244 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Post# 399470 , Reply# 61 12/13/2009 at 17:37 (5,244 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Psst! | ||
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Post# 399473 , Reply# 62 12/13/2009 at 18:01 (5,244 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Thank you so much!! | ||
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Post# 399474 , Reply# 63 12/13/2009 at 18:22 (5,244 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Gordon and or others will surely chime in on the subject of using "glue". Robert like others one has read used a silicone "plumber's glue/sealant" when doing the gasket tub repair, offered the same to the repairman fixing my Whirlpool unit, and he said *NO*, and that was that. Unlike the MMM sealant/glue, silicone plumber's grease does not have to set or dry. One applies the stuff (it tis rather messy and am here to tell you hard to get off one's fingers), to the part in question and gets on with things. CLICK HERE TO GO TO launderess's LINK | ||
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Post# 399482 , Reply# 64 12/13/2009 at 19:32 (5,244 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC) |
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I would never use a 'glue', but I do use a 3M sealant that is supplied by my parts house and is intended for light industrial needs/appliances, etc. This stuff is red. It fills gaps, peaks and valleys left in parts when new seals are applied to old parts. Wear and tear and rust residue, etc. can cause old tub parts not to seal as well to new neoprene seals, especially as well as they did when the tub was new. Adding this sealant fills the gaps and makes a much better seal. I like it because it sticks well, yet can be peeled off later. My mentor used this, and I never questioned his choice, nor have I ever used anything else. I've completely used up about 5 tubes of the stuff over the years on close to 70 machines. I suspect it is in stock at most or many parts places. I recommeded that RevvinKevin in Long Beach get some and he found it at his parts place too. There was a 10-year hiatus in my repair work, until I found AW.org and got re-energized, and believe it or not, my 10 year old "tube of goo" was fine and I finished it off this past summer. Pretty good stuff....My dad has used the same to close cracks in a couple frozen bird baths after a surprise freeze and it's lasted for years. I also use it to cover up rust-spots in tubs and centerposts (vs. using Rust-Oleum). As to the parts in the tub repair kit - there are only enough parts for one machine - four bolts, four washers and four rubber gaskets/seals. Some parts from Whirlpool come 'bulk-packed' and there are probably 25 kits in a box from the factory. The reason the kit has new bolts dawned on me today while reading this...the original bolts have a raised pattern underneath to "grab" onto the original rubber washer. When installed, the new bolts match up to the steel washer, so they need to be perfectly flat. The original bolts are wrench or socket driven, whereas the repair kit bolts are either flat-blade or phillips head, and take longer to install (this is why, L, that your service guy didn't want to use them). G | ||
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Post# 399574 , Reply# 65 12/14/2009 at 09:48 (5,243 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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I will have to order these parts today, and I think I am going to get a replacement spanner nut and the spanner nut wrench. Gotta get the 3M stuff at Lowes too. I have my all made, I just have to see if Partstore.com or Sears Parts Direct ultimately is the better deal. They both have all the items I need, but some parts were cheaper on one site and some cheaper on the other site. I am anxious to get this thing apart and fixed hopefully before the holiday is upon us. Sort of like a Christmas present to myself. Brian | ||
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Post# 399636 , Reply# 66 12/14/2009 at 15:40 (5,243 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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When Ordering Via Web or Phone
Don't just compare parts prices, but shipping charges as well. Some parts places charge something like $8 for shipping one part, then another $5 or so for each item included in the same order. Sears, though pricey on parts does a bit better, IMHO on shipping as one supposes they get a better deal from UPS. L. | ||
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Post# 399742 , Reply# 67 12/14/2009 at 21:27 (5,243 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Post# 399750 , Reply# 68 12/14/2009 at 22:28 (5,243 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Wow! | ||
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Post# 399752 , Reply# 69 12/14/2009 at 22:46 (5,243 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC) |
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Brian - I would suggest that if you have any parts distributors in your area, that instead of using an internet company, start working on a relationship with the counter staff at the parts house. Before long, if you're nice and they're a decent store, they will discount your parts, maybe even to wholesale, and you'll save money over the sites, especially considering shipping. I have found these relationships to be invaluable. Gordon | ||
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Post# 399759 , Reply# 70 12/14/2009 at 23:05 (5,243 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Will do next time for sure
I tried looking for a local distributer, but not sure what to look for. I used Appliance Parts Pros to start and everything was better priced for the most part then Sears and some of the other online retailers. I did not order the tub repair kit @ $18.50 when Gemline has them for $3. I would like to get to know a local distributer so I can actually get stuff same day and have the relationship you were talking about. Partstap.com seems to have very similar pricing to Parts Pro's give or take a few cents.
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Post# 399770 , Reply# 71 12/14/2009 at 23:15 (5,243 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Post# 401045 , Reply# 72 12/21/2009 at 11:17 (5,236 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Got an idea
You know, if I didn't know any better, seeing a picture of the bolts and washers on appliancepartspros.com, they look like something I could get at a Lowes or whatnot. Once I get the machine apart, I could probably take the bolts there now for reference, and get matching rubber and metal washers for it with new bolts.
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Post# 403460 , Reply# 73 1/2/2010 at 20:38 (5,224 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Had some better luck this round I found the exact same Whirlpool belt-drive that I had picked up from that seller in NY much closer in Dover, NJ. It's in a lot better condition and was recently serviced. Seems to work very good. Will be posting pics soon today. Since the one that was left out for frozen is quite beat up, I think it may become a parts machine rather than screwing around with it. I would like to give props to MisterEric who has made it possible to get the washer home to me and has been quite helpful in the present and will be in the future plumbing up the washers properly and neatly. Anyways the model number of it is LA7680XKW2 and the frozen one was LA7680XMW0. What was the difference in the last 4 characters of the model numbers? They look like virtually the same washer. Also anybody have pdf's of service and/or user's manuals that I can use or paper ones to sell? Thanks, Brian | ||
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Post# 403463 , Reply# 74 1/2/2010 at 21:27 (5,224 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC) |
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Brian - The four letters indicate the year/series, the color, and the mechanical revision. Both machines are white I presume (that's the W). The K series arrived before the M series. Your XMW0 is the first model of that group, whereas the XKW2 is the second revision in it's series. Things that cause revisions to the model number are things like part number changes to the timer, pump, lid coatings, etc. - basically things that don't change the overall model but that necessitate a change in the parts list. Here's an example in Kenmore form (but they work the same way): Model 110.82370100 is the entry level 70-series Kenmore that went on the market in fall 1983. 110.82370110 is the first revision which changed lid hinges for those lousy plastic snap-in hinges to the old-fashioned metal parts. 110.82370120 same as the above but had the timer revised from part number 660686 to 381860. 110.82370130 a temporary model made of a -20 but with a porcelain top and lid, which was necessary on a couple models during 1986 when I presume there was a problem with the powder coating process, as this model normally had a powder coated top not porcelain, and the two have different part numbers in Kenmore/Whirlpool's inventory and replacement parts system. Your machines probably aren't very different mechanically, though the K model MAY have a different lint filter than the M model. There were some changes going on during that time period where a lot of models shifted from various tub or cabinet mounted self-cleaning filters to the under-basket disks that predominated the last couple years. Kenmore and Whirlpool often used different filters until the disks came along. A number of 1981 and 1982 Kenmores started out with plumbed self-cleaning filters and were revised during their longevities to have the baskets mounted filters (which used much less plumbing and parts). DaDOES knows more about the specific Whirlpool geneology than I do if you want to know even more. I hope this helps, but CONGRATS on getting a machine that makes you happy! That's great. After all the talk lately about the Double-Duty Surgilator, I am wondering if I should get one going here myself! Gordon | ||
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Post# 403475 , Reply# 75 1/3/2010 at 00:02 (5,224 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Post# 403476 , Reply# 76 1/3/2010 at 00:03 (5,224 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Post# 403477 , Reply# 77 1/3/2010 at 00:06 (5,224 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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| Post# 403489 , Reply# 78 1/3/2010 at 01:15 (5,224 days old) by strongenough78 (California) | ||
I'm curious.......... | ||
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Post# 403491 , Reply# 79 1/3/2010 at 01:21 (5,224 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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From what I understand | ||
| Post# 403498 , Reply# 80 1/3/2010 at 02:58 (5,224 days old) by autowasherfreak () | ||
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Great videos, love the sounds of a Whirlpool belt drive. | ||
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Post# 403566 , Reply# 81 1/3/2010 at 11:22 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Question about the revisions
Does a change in part number necessarily mean a change in the actual part? I did notice some different part numbers for certain parts, but the diagrams look the same. Basically I was going to keep the M one for spare parts should the K one ever need them, specifically for the tranny, motor, console, etc.
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Post# 403579 , Reply# 82 1/3/2010 at 12:20 (5,223 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC) |
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Does a change in part number necessarily mean a change in th
YES, absolutely. Whirlpool doesn't change parts and part numbers unless there is a material difference with them somehow. Very often the new part will sub-over and replace the old part on a one for one basis, but if the part is changed, it usually gets a new part number. I just consulted my Whirlpool parts catalog (from 1992). The K machine is a 1982 model, and the M a 1984. Since yours is a K2, there is little or no difference with the major parts that are listed in the catalog reference (not every part is listed). The two machines use the same timers, motors, pumps, etc. If you had a K1 or a K0, a different pump was used from the K2 or the M0 (thus a different lint filter too) but you have two the same. Just for reference, nearly all belt-drive machines use interchangeable transmissions. They were revised over the years for sure, but other than the rare late 60s to 1973 super tall post 18lb. machines, the transmissions interchange. Even more-so for the motors. A current 285222 motor, which is essentially what you have in both your machines, will fit ANY belt drive, 1, 2, or 3 speed. In a 3 speed the extra-slow doesn't work, but at least there is something out there for what would otherwise be an SOL 3-speed machine. I'm digressing... Brian - Your machine has a lot of common parts. The timer, motor, and pump can still be had new. Keep the 'parts' machine though - you may need a tub (NLA), gearcase, etc. though your transmission sounds great based on your videos. Gordon | ||
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Post# 403587 , Reply# 83 1/3/2010 at 13:05 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Thank you for all the information
I was toying around with the thought of repairing the parts machine (M0), with the parts I already ordered and have, but then I begin to wonder if my working machine (K2) needs parts, well it is going to have to get the parts from somewhere down the the road. As weird as it may sound, I guess I sort of have an issue with taking a machine and putting it to death completely if it is repairable and capable of performing its duty again. The "some must die for others to live", as true as it may seem, is hard for me to deal with I guess.
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Post# 403594 , Reply# 84 1/3/2010 at 13:19 (5,223 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC) |
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I know how that is Brian, all too well....
To be honest, I have never scrapped one machine for another. I have robbed parts off of already scrapped units, but never consigned any of my own to 'death'. I feel bad enough, lol, that those 21 Whirlpool/Kenmores that I put in my storage trailer back in July were my least favorites, and they likely bit the dust because of it when the trailer got robbed for scrap (I presume). If you want, we can get the M machine up and running. I wouldn't worry too much about parts availability for the K2 washer - it doesn't have anything unusual on it that I can see, and I am sure you can accumulate a collection of replacement parts as they come available on ebay or something, so you so desire. That's actually fun to do. Don't stress it Brian, we'll get that machine running if you want, when you're ready, then you'll have TWO to play with. G | ||
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Post# 403607 , Reply# 85 1/3/2010 at 14:06 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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I think it is leaking from the centerpost gasket as the water is coming out from underneath the outer tub where it sits on the frame. I have that gasket, as well as the tub drain grommet, the seal for the side of the tub for the pressure switch hose, drive block, and spanner nut. Figured while I was in there, I would just replace everything. It look like it took a hit to the top of the console like it banged against the corner of a wall. It does function otherwise, other than the fast leak. I have some pics of the new one I got that I will post.
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Post# 403611 , Reply# 86 1/3/2010 at 14:13 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Post# 403612 , Reply# 87 1/3/2010 at 14:15 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Post# 403614 , Reply# 88 1/3/2010 at 14:17 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Post# 403615 , Reply# 89 1/3/2010 at 14:18 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Post# 403617 , Reply# 90 1/3/2010 at 14:19 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Post# 403620 , Reply# 91 1/3/2010 at 14:21 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Post# 403621 , Reply# 92 1/3/2010 at 14:21 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Post# 403622 , Reply# 93 1/3/2010 at 14:22 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Post# 403623 , Reply# 94 1/3/2010 at 14:23 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Post# 403624 , Reply# 95 1/3/2010 at 14:24 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Post# 403625 , Reply# 96 1/3/2010 at 14:25 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Post# 403626 , Reply# 97 1/3/2010 at 14:28 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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Post# 403679 , Reply# 98 1/3/2010 at 20:57 (5,223 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC) |
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Brian - Cool pics! The dirt on the machine is pretty common, at least in my experience. Some can get really nasty. I have always periodically wiped down the tub rings of my mother's and my machines to prevent this, as they build-up dust, splash debris and the occasional over-zealous detergent scoop. I usually take the tub rings out in the back yard and hose them down top and bottom with a hose and pressure nozzle. The machine looks to be in good shape though - the corner gussets look really good - little rust in there for a machine in a basement on the east coast. Oh, by the way - which machine is leaking, the K or the M? Gordon | ||
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Post# 403688 , Reply# 99 1/3/2010 at 22:12 (5,223 days old) by brianl (Saddle Brook, New Jersey) |
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The "M" machine | ||
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