Thread Number: 25851
My Maytag A108 washer |
[Down to Last] |
|
Post# 396937 , Reply# 1   12/1/2009 at 22:24 (5,231 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
Damper pad and spring replacement is an easy job to carry out. However, you'll need the brake tool to remove the brake package so you can remove the "tree" in order to get at the damper pads. Once the damper pads are glued in, let the glue set for 24 hours before reassembling. I have never heard of a spring breaking on these units, but have seen plenty of rusty ones from leaky outer tub bolt seals. Is the spring rusty or broken? |
Post# 396963 , Reply# 2   12/2/2009 at 00:15 (5,231 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
Here's a link to a thread I put up when we overhauled a GA806 washer for Dan. It shows a bit about doing the pads. I just did a thread about changing the tub bearing and seal. I'm starting to think it's time to do one on damper and pad work. Hmmmm.... RCD CLICK HERE TO GO TO redcarpetdrew's LINK |
Post# 397112 , Reply# 3   12/2/2009 at 17:12 (5,230 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 397154 , Reply# 4   12/2/2009 at 19:19 (5,230 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
Yes and no... You would release the springs and lift the main top then use a block of wood to raise the tree to lube the pads. You might be able to change pads only that way BUT: 1)If the damper bowl is damaged, it MUST be replaced or it will rip the new pads right off. 2)You need to clean the base frame completely. All grease, grime, leftover pads AND old adhesive must be removed for the new pads to glue on and stay on. If you can clean the baseframe while using the block without damaging the still good damper, then ok. I find it's just a little bit more to just pull the drive pulley and brake and be able to clean the base right. RCD |