Thread Number: 25948
My lighted controls aren't lighted :( |
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Post# 398645   12/9/2009 at 20:25 (5,222 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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As I wrote earlier, I recently got a 1972 Lady Kenmore washer. I have recently had some time to look at it and I decided to fix the lighted control panel first so I can feel better and get some quick results. I looked at the bulb and it looks good. The ends are not darkened. I replaced the starter and whoa! The previously-dead bulb will flicker a bit now, but won't light up. What should I do? What ballast does my washer take? I know the bulb is 18 watts and 26" long, but do y'all know any other specs? What is the likely culprit, the bulb or the ballast? The washer is model #: 110.7204900G Stay warm everyone, Dave The link is to the original post. CLICK HERE TO GO TO volvoguy87's LINK |
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Post# 398674 , Reply# 2   12/9/2009 at 22:36 (5,222 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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When I lived in the dorms at college we had flourescent tubes indirectly lighting our rooms from on top of the closets. Lots of times when a tube was out or flickering, simply turning it around would get it working again. I'd say that ever since, I've had at least a 50% success rate with trying this. Of course, if you had a known good tube around, that would be the best way to diagnose and possibly solve the problem.
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Post# 398687 , Reply# 3   12/9/2009 at 23:24 (5,222 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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As for the agitator, I removed the cap, I started to remove the bolt beneath the cap, but the darned thing broke :( I got the top half of the Variflex off and revealed yuck city! Here is a pic. Should it lift off, or do I need to remove more stuff? If it should lift off, it isn't. Either because it's stuck or because the broken bolt is still in place. Joy, Dave |
Post# 398700 , Reply# 4   12/10/2009 at 02:33 (5,222 days old) by douglasdc6 ()   |   | |
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The starter needed is an FS-2 Try the starter 1st then the bulb. If not then the ballast |
Post# 398720 , Reply# 5   12/10/2009 at 07:03 (5,222 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)   |   | |
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Post# 398738 , Reply# 6   12/10/2009 at 09:16 (5,222 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA)   |   | |
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You will need to get the bolt off. Once that's off the agitator should be able to lift off. Mine was rather filthy also but once I cleaned all of the nasty lint out it is a lot easier to adjust. Well, and more importantly, I feel better about it being clean so I'm not washing my clothes with 40 years of other peoples clothes over and over again!
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Post# 398758 , Reply# 7   12/10/2009 at 12:11 (5,222 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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The starter I pulled out is an FS25. The parts diagrams indicated FS25 as well. I bought the FS25 and the dead light will now light at the ends and blink like its trying to start, but it just won't stay lit. It's a pretty nifty system. Also, just to clarify, the head of the bolt is completely gone. Only the shaft is left. Will this still prevent the agitator from lifting off? If I spray some frozen bolt loosener on the remains of the bolt, will it eat the plastic of the agitator? I really don't want to damage an otherwise-pristine Variflex. Thanks, I'm new to Kenmores, Dave |
Post# 398764 , Reply# 9   12/10/2009 at 13:10 (5,222 days old) by lebron (Minnesota)   |   | |
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Post# 398802 , Reply# 11   12/10/2009 at 17:07 (5,221 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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What is the difference between the FS2 and the FS25 starter? Everything I am finding says the FS25 is correct for my Kenmore, but the FS2 is being talked about here quite a bit. What would be the advantage of getting an FS2 instead of the FS25? The washer is in a basement which is not too damp, but it is chilly. I would guess it's somewhere in the mid 50s down there right now. How should I go about removing the bolt? Thanks for your help guys, Dave |
Post# 399255 , Reply# 12   12/12/2009 at 15:52 (5,219 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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Jed and Dave - If the bolts are broken off on both your agitator shafts, there shouldn't be anything there holding the agitator onto the shaft other than 30-some years of being on there and perhaps rusted splines. Rust at the top was a problem in standard centerpost splined agitator shafts and I had to scrap many a shaft or transmission for that reason. You should be able to lift or pull the agitator out. I believe I had to agitamer the Vari-Flex out of my '72 Lady. What concerns me is the remants of the broken bolt in each of your machines. If you get the agitators out and get all that situated for re-installation, there won't be anything to hold the agitator down, and more importantly, seal it. A machine shop may have to ream it out and possibly re-thread for a new bolt unless enough of it is still present that you can use pliers etc. to grab the bolt and turn it once the agitator is out of the way. Good luck! Gordon |
Post# 399296 , Reply# 13   12/12/2009 at 19:45 (5,219 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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It would be worth a try to see if it's a temperature issue. I know in the store room behind my garage/shop the flourescent fixtures in there flicker when first turned on until they warm up, even on most summer mornings. My sister had a huge pink 1961 Coldspot TOL Spacemaster fridge with bottom freezer. The refrigerator section had flourescent lighting and required a special tube that could operate in cold temperatures. Too bad you don't have another fixture to try the bulb in. That's kind of an off beat sized tube. I think my juke box takes a tube of the same dimensions but higher watts. |
Post# 399338 , Reply# 14   12/13/2009 at 01:02 (5,219 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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