Thread Number: 26372
Re-program water level - 2007/2008 GE FL Washer
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Post# 404754   1/9/2010 at 07:26 (5,192 days old) by randycmaynard ()        

January 9, 2010

Was wondering if anyone knows if it is possible to re-program these newer front load washers for a higher water level? My machine is a 2007/2008 GE front load washer that has the electronic control panel with the large silver knob to set the cycles and several push button controls for spin speed, extra rinse, load size etc. I think many of these washers would do much better at cleaning if higher water levels were used in the cycles..... not that it's really that bad as is but a bit more water would be helpful overall.

Thanks much!

Randy Maynard
Knox,TN





Post# 404760 , Reply# 1   1/9/2010 at 07:51 (5,192 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Water Plus

mrb627's profile picture
[rant]

I would really like to see manufacturers add a [WATER PLUS] button that would actually bring the water level up to the glass, if not higher.

Or perhaps when you increase the soil level to heavy, there were an option above heavy, like [MUDDY] that would do the trick.

I really don't understand this race to be the MOST EFFICIENT when all the manufacturer should be doing is ensuring they meet the energy star guidelines.

Funny, they would sacrifice cleaning to be the MOST EFFICIENT.

Furthermore, why can't more manufacturers offer a [SERVICE MODE] where programming functions can be modified to suit special needs situations.

Someone with an allergy to detergent should be able to modify the machine to rinse to their liking. Makes me wonder if there isn't some branch of medical organization that hasn't rated machines on rinsing for allergy suffers.

[/rant]

Malcolm


Post# 404767 , Reply# 2   1/9/2010 at 08:11 (5,192 days old) by randycmaynard ()        
Rant on, rant on...... So true!

Malcolm,

Many is the time that I wished the same over the last two years with this machine - sometimes on cold washes, if I have the time, I will add water from the water hose via the detergent compartment drawer since my machine is in the garage near an inside water spigot. I agree with the rant completely! The machine I have has worked perferctly (so far) and my only complaint is the water level issue. Is there a way to re-program on the water level that you know of?

Thanks and rant on!


Post# 404769 , Reply# 3   1/9/2010 at 08:31 (5,192 days old) by georgect (Fairfield, CT)        
Rant on, rant on, rant...

georgect's profile picture
Add me to the list. I would like to see more water actually wash clothes. I don't own a front loader yet (waiting for one with at least an option to use more water).

A front loader is efficient by default and there is no need for this extent of ULTRA efficiency. Manufacturers do it just to get more of a kick back from the government for being that much more over the "efficient" level.

I read so many stories about washers smelling moldy or not getting filthy clothes clean (and having to re-wash), or taking too much time overall washing, spinning, rinsing.

I grew up with a Westinghouse front loader and it never smelled, never left clothes dirty or smelly, and just went into a spin with no issues (didn't walk either). It used a decent amount of water that clothes were plunged into, not just slapped against the drum like today's FL washers.

I wish manufacturers would just give us the option for more water usage already.


Post# 404773 , Reply# 4   1/9/2010 at 08:52 (5,192 days old) by sudsman ()        
put my name on the list in all CAPS

I DO NOT understand the "savings" of low water level washing when it take more that a hour in electricity to run the damn washer in the first place. It is MUCH harder on clothes and and a machine that has to run 2 or 3x as long will NOT last a long either. Also all cold rinises is not a good thing either. If the water is below 50 And it is in many places is does not rinse as well. also a last rinise should always be warm or about 90 for no iron goods so that the dryer does not have to run as long.. RANT RANT RANT In most plants as this one wash level is usually 6 to 8 " which on most home machines would work out to 1/8 to 1/4 the door level.. We were also taught that a 2 to 3" suds level was just were it should be. I also HATE these machines that dumb down the water temperature why the hell choose hot water if it is going to mix it with cold.. RANT RANT RANT!

Post# 404777 , Reply# 5   1/9/2010 at 09:14 (5,192 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        
malcom

The huge probme is the government.

Who created those standards DON'T DO LAUNDRY. They usually wear dry cleaned suits and have no idea about how a washing machine works.

The average american housekeeper usually wash whites and colors in the same load, so, a huge front loader like the Frigidaire Affinity, with a good water level (reaching the glass) would be much more energy efficient than a regular top loader because it would use less water and also reduce the number of loads.

But, with these dumb standards, the manufacturers had to reinvent the wheel and rediscover the fire to be able to offer "good but not excellent" cleaning and rinsing results.

nobody can write "this machine is rated 11kg, but for best results, load only 5 or 6 kg of clothes in it" on the instructions manual.

Also, with these ridiculous standards, detergent manufacturers had to change their formulas to something they were not used.

U.S.A is the country of the top loaders and then suddenly, flooded with front loaders that are completelly different from european and american vintage models.


I have an american front loader and I use it as my daily driver. I also have detergents from germany, USA, Argentina, Spain, Paraguay and now even lebanon.

the american Tide HE liquid is good (but again, not excellent)
It works great in my european FL, but in the affinity, if I use the recommended dose, the rinsing will be ridiculous.

I use argentinian detergent formulated for front loaders (most machines in argentina are made in Europe) and I can get excellent cleaning and the rinsing is fantastic. Most of the times I don't use the extra rinse option.


So, I think the next step, as the manufacturers are not alowed to raise the water levels, is focus on the detergents.
I love the argentinian "Skip Intelligent" formula.

It's really intelligent. the machine starts and it produces high suds, to help wetting the clothes, then it reaches the 2nd stage of it, with low suds, just to keep lint in suspension.
as soon as the machine drains, the reaches the 3rd stage, that kill the suds completelly (don't ask me how does it do that) so the first spin will be able to remove almost all the wash water from the clothes and also the tub.

the first rinse drains very light gray, almost clear and the second rinse drains totally clear.


with Tide HE in the same machine, using the recommended dose it suds half way up the glass, the first spin suds locks, the first rinse is done with the drum full of suds, the second spin usually won't happen because of the suds, etc, etc.... and the final spin has foam "flying" in the drum. I thought HE is supposed to be the abreviation of High Efficiency, not Higly Extra-sudsing.




Post# 404786 , Reply# 6   1/9/2010 at 09:48 (5,192 days old) by randycmaynard ()        
And the rant continues.......

On the HE degergent issue.... you do have to be careful on how much you use due to the fact it will create an immense amount of suds despite what is said on the container. I usually use a little less than the "recommended" amount for a load in the FL GE that I have since it will suds lock the machine which leads to, essentially, a third or fourth rinse depending on whether you have the extra rinse option on or off plus it sends the softener in during the suds lock rinse to knock the suds down so you loose that as well and may need to add a little more softener for the last rinse if you want/need it. I'm getting to where I limit the amount of softener I use as it tends to gunk/gum up the dispenser and probably other parts of the machine too.

Generally speaking, I always use the extra rinse option on larger heavier loads such as towels, bedding, heavier work clothes etc. I've also decided to start using warm (or hotter) water temp settings and leaving the cold to items that list cold water wash. I have two cold settings - one is tap cold which is the really cold (esp in winter) water with no machine heater enhancement and then regular cold which probably has some machine heater enhancement and/or some hot
water mixed in. The other three are warm, hot and sanitize.

I also use, for the most part, the highest speed spin to get as much of the detergent out as possible and sometimes if I messed up the detergent amount I will run another rinse and spin which you can actually add the 2nd rinse option to and end up with 2 rinses and a spin if it is really needed - try not to goof up the detergent so I don't use that extra rinse/spin option very often.

Well, boys (girls too!) continue the rant and if you do come up with a way to re-program the water level on one of these things by all means post.

Thanks!

P.S. - Do make good use, especially in US FL washers, of the cleaning program on the machine if it has one or run a normal cycle on the hottest water setting with some bleach or the machine cleaner tablets or powder that is available for this purpose which will help keep the softener and other residue down and keep the drum spider from going bad too soon.


Post# 404796 , Reply# 7   1/9/2010 at 10:54 (5,192 days old) by favorit ()        
energy savings when drying ?

I really can't understand why american codes insist on dumb down water usage in washers to save energy. One would prefer to make "green sacrifices" on drying rather than some compromises in washing and rinsing performance

Actually dryers use much more energy than washers
They should focus on this fact : the amount of energy a vented electric dryer uses for a load is enough to run 3 or 4 loads @ 140°F in a matching *vintage* cold-fill-only frontloader with internal heater.

Wouldn't make more sense to save on drying rather than on washing ? I understand that line drying outside in big cities like NYC is not allowed (or if it were, it would mean rewash grey clothes ....) and a indoor place for racks can be an issue ... but what about in those sunny and windy places in the countryside ? Even now here in the Alps, with plenty of snow the 1200 rpm spin is enough to have dry clothes after some hours outside on the racks.

Again, my country is the motherland of nuns, priests and co. but line drying here has never been considered a gross behaviour. Even nuns line dry outside .... they just hide their unmentionables behind sheets and towels *LOL*


Post# 404812 , Reply# 8   1/9/2010 at 12:14 (5,192 days old) by mysteryclock (Franklin, TN)        
It isn't about the energy so much...

mysteryclock's profile picture
...as it is about this (as an example):

Lake Meade Water Level Drop

Originally FLs were touted as being more energy efficient but the new standards being put out include measurements of water efficiency as well for a very good reason... our good water reserves are dwindling and new ones from technical sources (desalinization, etc.) are not coming online fast enough to make up the gap.

Now, that being said even increasing the rinse level in an FL by 50% (a lot!) would still save approximately 2x over a typical TL washer, but that would probably exclude them from the new standards. That's why I agree it would be nice if there were "Service Manual" type instructions to allow more experienced folks to do that themselves.

Did not realize that warm rinsing could make such a difference drying... thanks for sharing that. Makes me wish more companies offered that.


Post# 404821 , Reply# 9   1/9/2010 at 12:44 (5,192 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture
I can *almost* tolerate my Affinity washer's skimpy water level on normal or small loads, but it's absolutely ridiculous with the small amount of water it provides for large or bulky loads. I have a large empty Tide liquid container that I fill up usually at least twice, and add to the machine via the detergent drawer when I'm washing a set of king-sized sheets and pillow cases. This should not be necessary. With fleece sheets in particular, the machine adds so little water that they are barely soaked through, which the folks at Frigidaire/Electrolux apparently think is enough to get the job done. NOT!!! Towels are another problem. I wish I knew how to increase the water level adjustment. Then I wouldn't have to baby-sit the machine during the first few minutes of tumbling.

I've had the same experience as others have mentioned in regard to suds increasing after more water is added. At this point, I don't care if the machine fails due to too much suds. I'm so not happy with this Affinity that I can't wait to replace it with something that actually can wash and rinse adequately, and also clean itself, like my Duet could.

The local appliance warehouse had Bosch FL washers and dryers on sale for $399 each (after all rebates you may qualify for) yesterday. I was so tempted. Anything (well, except GE) would be better than my Affinity.


Post# 404837 , Reply# 10   1/9/2010 at 13:33 (5,192 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Load Size Recommendations

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If I am not mistaken, the Mieles actually instruct different maximum load sizes depending upon what you are washing in their manual.

Malcolm


Post# 404838 , Reply# 11   1/9/2010 at 13:35 (5,192 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Mieles

mrb627's profile picture
I have also heard that the uber Mieles have programming that will increase the water levels. Although, nobody has ever posted a picture or a video to prove that.

I need to see it to believe it, ya know?

Malcolm


Post# 404839 , Reply# 12   1/9/2010 at 13:40 (5,192 days old) by bertrum ()        
Modern front loaders

Hi Sudsman,

quote: "I DO NOT understand the "savings" of low water level washing when it take more that a hour in electricity to run the damn washer in the first place."

Modern frontloaders use less water and use less electricity.

Basically how these machines manage to do this is to have very long wash times and to use the heating element only for a very short amount of time.

The electric motor uses very little electricity compared to the heating element so to have programmes that run for hours and hours is actually very economic.

Yes you are right about modern washers destroying clothes, washing them to death.

What most people dont realise is that since about 1990 most people have been walking around in dirty clothes!

rant over


Post# 404840 , Reply# 13   1/9/2010 at 13:42 (5,192 days old) by bertrum ()        

Hi Malcolm,
Yes Mieles and some of the Bosch washers do have a "high water option".

Defeats the object of buying a "economic" machine to have 1980 wash levels,(although you may have clean clothes again)!


Post# 404844 , Reply# 14   1/9/2010 at 14:16 (5,192 days old) by ptcruiser51 (Boynton Beach, FL)        
LG Machines

ptcruiser51's profile picture
That are higher-end have a "water plus" option that will add 15% more water to the cycle (so my factory rep tells me).

My Maytag rep says choosing a higher soil level program will add more water on both the FL and TL "Bravos" models.

Not sure about GE, but they do have a soil level program so it's worth a try.

For anyone with fabric softener goo or detergent buildup in the dispenser on FL's, all Maytag, GE, Amana, and LG models have removable dispenser drawers (usually a tab in the back). You can wash them top-rack in the dishwasher or by hand.


Post# 404845 , Reply# 15   1/9/2010 at 14:37 (5,192 days old) by hoover1100 (U.K.)        
What most people dont realise is that since about 1990 most

I'm sorry but that's a rediculous thing to say.

Whilst I'm beginning to see that the water consumption of U.S. machines tends to be inadequate, especially with the short wash times, modern European machines wash and rinse as well, often better than their older counterparts whilst using considerably less water and energy, providing they are used properly.

This means simply not going mad on the detergent doses, not packing them full, and not using really high sudsing products.

Also, I have never had any item of clothing damaged in any way, even over a long period of multiple washings, in any machine, even ones that take over 2hours to complete a load, so that's completely untrue as well.

Using any European machine and European detergents, it is always possible to get clothes perfectly clean and perfectly rinsed. It's just a case of altering your laundry habits as per the machine.

Not to mention that for most of the 90s, most machines used almost as much, if not as much water/energy as they did in the 80s.

If they just beefed up the quality to match the machines of 30 years ago, yet kept modern programming and water/energy consumption, you'd have an excellent machine, i.e. Modern Mieles.

Matt


Post# 404851 , Reply# 16   1/9/2010 at 14:49 (5,192 days old) by aquacycle (West Yorkshire, UK)        

aquacycle's profile picture
^Matt, I completely agree. It's ridiculous to say that everyone has been walking around in dirty clothes. I mean, I cook dinner and I'm not very good at it and end up covered in all sorts - pasta sauce and baked bean sauce being the 2 favorites. Sometimes, it's a few days before I was them. They go into the machine, they come out and voila, the stain is gone. How is that not clean, exactley?

Post# 404855 , Reply# 17   1/9/2010 at 15:38 (5,192 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        

mark_wpduet's profile picture
I realize that the LG (water plus) doesn't add much more water, but I have been DYING to see a vid of the Kenmore HE washers that have the "Skincare Rinse II"..I read on a blog once where someone stated it takes the rinse water up to the bottom of the glass, and NOW Whirlpool has this on their newest models that have 4.4 cu feet drum. I don't mind the low water washing at all, but the option for a deep rinse would be perfect for me to wash all the slime away. Luckily, the current Duet I have has been adjusted slightly by me so it uses a bit more water than it did. Lots of sloshing..I know this pic doesn't look like MUCH more water, but it is! :) If anyone has seen the skincare rinse in action, please let me know what you think....Thanks

Post# 405287 , Reply# 18   1/11/2010 at 04:09 (5,190 days old) by sudsman ()        
bertrum

The heating cycle on these machine do NOT run for a short time they run for a LONG time read some of what is actually said . some run 2 or 3 hours. maybe so there but NOT here. So there is really NO savings at all!

Post# 405290 , Reply# 19   1/11/2010 at 04:50 (5,190 days old) by logixx (Germany)        

logixx's profile picture
"I have also heard that the uber Mieles have programming that will increase the water levels. Although, nobody has ever posted a picture or a video to prove that."

Miele with "Maximum Water Level" setting activated.


Post# 405299 , Reply# 20   1/11/2010 at 06:43 (5,190 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Miele

mrb627's profile picture
Is that one of the American Miele's?

Malcolm


Post# 405304 , Reply# 21   1/11/2010 at 07:05 (5,190 days old) by logixx (Germany)        

logixx's profile picture
Yes. That picture is from the Laundry Room Forum.

Post# 405361 , Reply# 22   1/11/2010 at 13:14 (5,190 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
the other problem is that the manufacturers don't have adjustable screws for the pressure switch which would allow us to modify these newer machines......

working on a theory.....if it works, I'll get back to you guys....there has got to be a way!


Post# 405366 , Reply# 23   1/11/2010 at 13:43 (5,190 days old) by brisnat81 (Brisbane Australia)        

All of My Miele's set to Euro mode fill about 1" up the glass when it detects that it has a full load on board. At a minimum there is about 2" in the bottom of the drum and the amount goes up from there depending on how big it senses the load is.

In AU mode the highest cottons rinse level would come to the bottom edge of the boot.


Post# 405415 , Reply# 24   1/11/2010 at 16:47 (5,189 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
They are suposed to "sense" how big the load is....more clothes...more water...BUT they don't.....to get good results you have to wash small loads

small loads in a machine that can handle huge loads....is NOT energy efficient....at this point, you might as well go back to a top loader washing a 12lbs load, at least then the cycle time is shorter, and the machine itself would be about 1/3 the price.....just my opinion...still working on the issue...I have a few more ideas....


Post# 405425 , Reply# 25   1/11/2010 at 17:31 (5,189 days old) by vintagesearch ()        

the solution to the problem in my opinion is just let the manufacturers from overseas do all the programing and actual manufacturing of these machines and ship and sell them here!like take example Europe they have had FL'ers for decades and without problems!!! ive seen a few videos on youtube of washers from overseas they all have sufficient water levels and it appears that they by default have about 2 rinses and by most standards have an on board heater, am i right for making this observation? in all reality the american ones arent really up to par with the euro ones at all!!! they have got it right with frontloaders in my book. from what ive read and seen here so few FL'ers here in america are dependable and have sufficient water to give good results. it makes me wonder if a commercial FL'er actually uses varying water levels depending on the load size adequate rinses and water consumption why dont domestic ones do the same? i am aware of the vast differences in how they are being used under circumstances in that comparison but still why so spotty? im NOT ranting lol just food for thought at the end of the day miele's gonna get our dollars here..eventually....

Post# 405500 , Reply# 26   1/11/2010 at 22:38 (5,189 days old) by spiceman1957 ()        
I could not agree more

from everyone here. I have had my Kenmore Elite for 5 years, and while I like this machine for its water effectively and not having to baby the machine while its running, I do have some qualms about the machine's water settings.

1. I have to run small loads as not to overload the machine.

2. Just like many of you, I don't understand why it has to
take 105 minutes just to do a load of clothes. I
understand here that was the major problem people had
when the first front loaders were introduced (Bentix).

I have found a way to get around this, and still have clean clothes. My washer was a Gentle wash cycle which takes 30 to 50 minutes depending on the small,medium or heavy setting quickly. I find I can wash towels, shirts, and other non heavy items like jeans. This cycle won't allow a extended spin, but I haven't had a problem when its set on the high spin setting. Best of all, the machine fills up with plenty of water and you can actually see the clothes moves freely in the wash cycle and rinse cycle. I like this gentle cycle because I can wash/spin dry a lot of clothes in a short amount of time. I have been so tempted to call a Sears repairman to come out and adjust the water settings, but don't know it would be a wasted call.
John



Post# 405519 , Reply# 27   1/11/2010 at 23:45 (5,189 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        

mark_wpduet's profile picture
Spiceman

That's one of the reasons I wish my duet had a bulky cycle. I hear that cycle (at least on the duet) uses a LOT more water but I have yet to see a video of it. It makes me wonder if I got one of those 4.4 cu ft duet washers which has the MAX rinse option in addition to a bulky cycle, I'm thinking that would use plenty of water. Relative works for Whirlpool so we get a employee discount on new appliances.


Post# 405526 , Reply# 28   1/12/2010 at 00:20 (5,189 days old) by peteski50 (New York)        
Water Level In Front Loaders!

peteski50's profile picture
It's amazing in such a fast pace world that these machines have all these such fancy cycles that don't do shit. The machines are so well over priced as well. I think it is a disgrace that we do not have the option to choose how much water we use to wash. I believe in savings but this is totalty redicilous. I had a LG that I kicked to the curb because it leaked and the service was terrable along with the fact it took forever to go into a spin. It was a nightmare trying to get a load of wash done! It is pitiful what this country has come to. Talk about front loaders, I just keep thinking about the simplicity of a westinghouse and look at what we have today and it sickens me. When they started to make front load machines here in the 90's the frigmore was the best idea. Simple dial control with just enough options and enough water. (True their was bearing issues that could have been resolved) but this design was a step in the right direction. Then they came up with these to big monsters that are as useless as tits on a bull! I go into places like PCRichard ans Sears and it makes me laugh with the prices they want for these machines. Than they wonder why the econmony is doing so bad. Now Sears has their new designs as LG and looks to have kicked whirlpool aside. To me it's a mistake. The whole appliance industry has gone down the toilet. Just my 2 cent - needed to rant!
Peter


Post# 405544 , Reply# 29   1/12/2010 at 02:14 (5,189 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        

mark_wpduet's profile picture
What I don't understand is if the manufacturers have NO CHOICE but to create energy star washers that use a cup of water to wash, why can't the manufacturers add "options" that the customer can use "if they wish?" I mean, can't the manufacturers still claim energy star ratings since their default settings would use little water? Or is that a NO NO?

Post# 405611 , Reply# 30   1/12/2010 at 11:52 (5,189 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        
Bulky Items Cycle

rp2813's profile picture
On my Duet the bulky cycle did not add more water. Instead, it would provide breaks in the tumbling action to make sure the entire item got saturated. I only used that cycle once. I want my king sized mattress pads CLEAN, not just soaked.

On that same machine, it was either the "Active wear" or "Quick wash" cycle that used more water.

With the Affinity I have now, which is teetering on the brink of POS status for cleaning ability due to its skimpy water levels, the "Permanent Press" cycle is the shortest at 36 minutes. Otherwise, you're looking at just about an hour to run a load through, and that doesn't count all of the BS rebalancing time.


Post# 405637 , Reply# 31   1/12/2010 at 15:13 (5,189 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
Called Frigidaire/Electrolux...what a waste of freakin time....they want to send a tech out to adjust my level again....which I know can't be done......customer service from them is another shot in the dark...they don't even know their product or what it does!!!

have to wait and see what happens!


Post# 405648 , Reply# 32   1/12/2010 at 16:55 (5,188 days old) by logixx (Germany)        

logixx's profile picture
Too low a water level isn't really a problem in Europe (any more!). At least from what I've seen on YouTube, there are plenty of Euro washers that use visible amounts of water during the rinse.

Today, more and more manufacturers offer special cycles, Sensitive cycles, which rinse multiple times. Some offer more than just one extra rinse. Others use turbidity sensors.

Check out this YouTube channel from ad1996it. He's got the newest washers. The first five videos show the brand new Bosch washer from the varioPerfect range. varioPerfect can be added to most cycles. The three settings are default, SpeedPerfect and EcoPerfect.

On EcoPerfect, the cycle is extended to save energy. It might also lower the temp and add soaking periods during the main wash. On SpeedPerfect, the washer heats up faster and tumbles more aggressively and the cycle is faster.

Besides the videos of the BOSCH WAS 24422 he's also got videos of a Whirlpool AWOE 8104. Both are modern European machines and yet look at those water levels on the rinse cycles! Okay, he did use options to raise the water level (-> like Sensitive) but still... I don't think any US front loader would fill that high on any cycle.

Alex


CLICK HERE TO GO TO logixx's LINK


Post# 405654 , Reply# 33   1/12/2010 at 17:56 (5,188 days old) by washabear (Maryland)        

This is why I like my Frigemore. It uses sufficient water and will add more about a minute into the wash cycle if it thinks it doesn't have enough. Works really well. I had a newer Frigidaire before this and didn't like it for several reasons. I just happen to think the "old-tech" Frigemore works better. I should get another one as a backup in case they decide to stop making them before mine blows up!



Post# 405686 , Reply# 34   1/12/2010 at 21:10 (5,188 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

Mark, that's a No-No and NO...

the idiots that created the standards know that if the machine has an option to raise the water level, everybody would use it always.

the "water raise" can be made... instead of a spoon, with the option selected the machine will use a spoon and two drops of water.


Post# 405733 , Reply# 35   1/13/2010 at 02:54 (5,188 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        

mark_wpduet's profile picture
Thomas

I'm not so sure about that. Most people don't give a crap about laundry and just throw it in and let it go and then when done, throw it in the dryer. The few of us that are obsessive about it and want clean laundry will use the extra water but I don't think most people would quite honestly. Maybe I'm wrong. LOL

I do know that Whirlpool machines are starting to add a feature called Max rinse or skincare rinse to their machines, which they did NOT used to have at all....I still don't know how much MORE water this uses, but it's a step in the right direction.


Post# 405738 , Reply# 36   1/13/2010 at 04:43 (5,188 days old) by askomiele (Belgium Ghent)        
Key to clean laundry...

Is not how much water you use, but it's used in a efficient way! Any idea's how to do it? (reusing rinsewater?)

Post# 405741 , Reply# 37   1/13/2010 at 05:40 (5,188 days old) by launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Just So You Know

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Energy Star is a voluntary program. Manufacturers are free not to make appliances that do not meet that particular standard, though not sure how many of the populace brainwashed to look for that darn yellow label, would purchase such items.

Post# 406047 , Reply# 38   1/14/2010 at 11:19 (5,187 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)        
O K......I think I have it.....

yogitunes's profile picture
I took off the old pressure switch hose......replaced it with a similar hose from the garage, first a real long one ( about 30 feet) to diplace some AIR to add more water....no luck

several other tries....no luck

BUT....I put a "T" in the line and routed another hose to an empty 3 liter soda bottle with a port installed in the cap, and layed all this in the bottom of the machine.....the result had added water just slightly to the edge of the door opening....about 2 inches more water....with a load of clothes I would really want more....but, the clothes are really soaked and I have suds spashing on the window.....next attempt is to put 2 bottles linked together to see how much water is added...don't want to come too far up on the window, just incase the power goes off and "pops" the door open and have a flood......

so far so good



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