Thread Number: 26619
Some good stuff in Cincinnati! |
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Post# 408803   1/23/2010 at 19:24 (5,200 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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Gold Kenmore with a Super Roto Swirl $50.00. What model is this? Dave CLICK HERE TO GO TO volvoguy87's LINK on Cincinnati Craigslist |
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Post# 408804 , Reply# 1   1/23/2010 at 19:25 (5,200 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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Post# 408807 , Reply# 2   1/23/2010 at 19:29 (5,200 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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Post# 408817 , Reply# 3   1/23/2010 at 19:44 (5,200 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)   |   | |
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Post# 408824 , Reply# 5   1/23/2010 at 19:59 (5,200 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Even gravity drain models still have a drain hose ;) Most all pump models I've seen have the metal goose-neck on the end of the drain hose, but I've seen a least one pump model that didn't. Makes me wonder if it was replaced at some time. Anyone care to shed some light on that? *cough* *cough* Geoff *cough* |
Post# 408829 , Reply# 6   1/23/2010 at 20:26 (5,199 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)   |   | |
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Nice stuff! The Kenmo' looks pretty sweet. The Maytag appears to be an E2LS. The safety valve appears to be dangling in the main photo. The trick to spot a Pump/Non-Pump model is the angle of the outlet port on the drain. Non-Pump models have a 45 degree outlet, where as the Pump models have the outlet in line with the hose. This one has the 45 degree outlet. All Pump models came with a goose-neck from Newton. I imagine though that it was an item that could easily be mis-placed by a unknowing second hand user. Ben |
Post# 408831 , Reply# 7   1/23/2010 at 20:29 (5,199 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)   |   | |
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Post# 408836 , Reply# 8   1/23/2010 at 20:37 (5,199 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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Post# 408837 , Reply# 9   1/23/2010 at 20:38 (5,199 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)   |   | |
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I've often wondered why they included threads at the end of the non-pump drain hoses. From what I've read, Maytag used the same drain hose from the Model 80/90 through the end of production on the E. They all had garden hose threads - way before a pump was thrown on any conventional Maytag. I suspect it could have been used if one needed to put an extension on the hose to better reach a drain elsewhere in a basement. Ben |
Post# 408839 , Reply# 10   1/23/2010 at 20:54 (5,199 days old) by polkanut (Wausau, WI )   |   | |
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My mother-in-law had an E2LS, and that is the correct drain hose end for a non-pump model. If it were a pump model, it would be an E2LPS, and have the goose neck. The rubber foot pedal was a major PITA to use, and has rendered many a wringer inoperable when the bulb deteriorates. Most people don't know about putting a bolt in the opening where the hose connects, and using it the regular way.
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Post# 408845 , Reply# 11   1/23/2010 at 21:16 (5,199 days old) by 70series ( Connecticut.)   |   | |
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That is a 1972 Model 70 (110.72047**) standard capacity model. It would not be a tall post machine since those were only available on large capacity models for a limited period of time. Definitely grab that if you want it. Have a good one, James |
Post# 408857 , Reply# 12   1/23/2010 at 21:51 (5,199 days old) by appnut (TX)   |   | |
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Post# 408880 , Reply# 13   1/23/2010 at 23:07 (5,199 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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Post# 409002 , Reply# 14   1/24/2010 at 11:55 (5,199 days old) by appnut (TX)   |   | |
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Post# 409010 , Reply# 15   1/24/2010 at 12:11 (5,199 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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Post# 409079 , Reply# 16   1/24/2010 at 14:56 (5,199 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 409083 , Reply# 17   1/24/2010 at 15:07 (5,199 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati)   |   | |
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Post# 409216 , Reply# 18   1/24/2010 at 23:55 (5,198 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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Post# 409239 , Reply# 19   1/25/2010 at 07:12 (5,198 days old) by appnut (TX)   |   | |
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Post# 409279 , Reply# 20   1/25/2010 at 10:35 (5,198 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati)   |   | |
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Post# 409319 , Reply# 21   1/25/2010 at 13:42 (5,198 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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Does the Maytag E2LS have height adjustable legs? If so, how do I adjust them and how short can I make the washer? How do I remove the wringer head and how should it be positioned for transport? Is there a shaft that sticks up where the wringer was once removed? In other words, can I get the E2LS short enough to fit into my roommate's 1982 Volvo 240 station wagon? As for the KM Belt Drive, if I must transport it on its side, on which side should it be placed, what precautions should I take, and what should I expect? Thanks, Dave |
Post# 409324 , Reply# 22   1/25/2010 at 13:55 (5,198 days old) by appliguy (Oakton Va.)   |   | |
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Post# 409330 , Reply# 23   1/25/2010 at 14:18 (5,198 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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Oh believe me I know what a mess Maytag wringer transmission oil is. It's thick as snot, takes forever to clean up, and the smell will be stuck in my mind as long as I live. One reason for posting my question is because I want to leak as little oil as possible. No leaked oil is my ultimate goal. Thanks, Dave |
Post# 409342 , Reply# 24   1/25/2010 at 14:53 (5,198 days old) by polkanut (Wausau, WI )   |   | |
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Yes, an E2LS should have adjustable legs, but I'm not sure what the height is in their lowest position. There is nothing that sticks up when you remove the wringer head, just lift it straight up. If you have a large recycling bin, these work great for setting the head in upside down once it's removed, and ready for transport. Once home, put a bolt in the opening where the foot pedal hose connects to the machine, this will enable you to use the wringer the normal way, by using the lever on the head. Keep us posted!
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Post# 409391 , Reply# 25   1/25/2010 at 18:12 (5,198 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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Dave - I've been out of town since Friday and have just skimmed here briefly (aw.org withdrawal), but I wanted to let you know that if you can avoid it, do not move the Kenmore on it's side for any length of time more than 10 minutes, preferably not at all. On machines that have been used a fair amount, the seal that covers the agitator shaft in the transmission cover will wear, and laying the machine on it's side will cause you to loose up to 1/2 of the machine's oil. Obviously this is not good, not to mention whatever issues there are with what that oil spills onto. Whenever moving a belt-drive Whirlpool/Kenmore on it's side, even temporarily, two things are important to be aware of. On the original standard capacity sized tubs, and the latest belt-drives, 1981-1987, the baseplate is the widest item, especially on the sides, and you can dent the cabinet from the inside if it is allowed to hit it hard enough or frequently enough. On the large capacity 1967-1981 machines, the tub overhangs the baseplate considerably (because they are wider than the others) and this can bend the tub or dislodge the seals if jarred hard enough. I do not recommend moving belt drive machines in their sides at all unless you are confident the tranmission is going to hold the oil and you take care to brace and support the superstructure. My experience has been that often a machine will hold oil for a brief time while I lay it down to take it apart, but once it starts to drip, it's on, and big-time. Gordon |
Post# 409423 , Reply# 26   1/25/2010 at 19:30 (5,198 days old) by kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)   |   | |
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About the centerpost height comments - actually, Melvin and James are both correct. The centerpost height in this machine is the standard, original design. It is not the super-tall large capacity post, but being that this is not a large cap. machine, I am not sure that's what Melvin meant. In either meaning, this is not one of the 1978 and later short post models. Looks like a very nice machine!! Gordon |
Post# 409621 , Reply# 27   1/26/2010 at 09:47 (5,197 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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How do I adjust the leg height on an E2LS? With the wringer head removed, do you think I can get it under 30" tall? Is transporting a Belt Drive KM on its front bad too? I'm trying to get the truck, but it needs a new clutch slave cylinder and that is something Wes is going to have to do. Thanks y'all, Dave |
Post# 409624 , Reply# 28   1/26/2010 at 09:53 (5,197 days old) by elginkid (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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I just hope they work! We have 5 washers (Two Centerdial Maytags, Two Lady Kenmores, and a speed queen wringer) and only one is presently functioning as it should be. This will make two more (not including the 4 dryers that are down thereas well) machines that I HOPE are functional! My basement is big enough I suppose...but it's not a nice spacious basement with level floors, smooth walls, reasonable headroom, and good lighting. Plus, where are the increasing numbers of stoves, doors, windows, dishwashers, sinks and toilets going to go? I know, you guys are just going to laugh at only having 5 washing machines. :) Wes |
Post# 409786 , Reply# 29   1/26/2010 at 19:30 (5,197 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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Just in case anyone ever needs to know... If you remove the adjustable legs and wringer head from a Maytag E2L series wringer washing machine, it will, in fact, fit upright in the back of a Volvo 240 station wagon with LESS THAN 1 INCH to spare. I didn't even have to fold down the 2nd row seat (this one has no 3rd row seat). That was surprisingly pleasant and easy, Dave Pics tomorrow. |
Post# 409801 , Reply# 30   1/26/2010 at 20:27 (5,196 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 409829 , Reply# 31   1/26/2010 at 22:35 (5,196 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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Post# 409830 , Reply# 32   1/26/2010 at 22:51 (5,196 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 409835 , Reply# 33   1/26/2010 at 23:42 (5,196 days old) by volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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