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Thread Number: 26631
Maytag A606 (serial # 596342YH) agitator removal |
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Post# 408995 , Reply# 2 1/24/2010 at 11:40 (5,204 days old) by goatfarmer  (South Bend, home of Champions) |
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Post# 409000 , Reply# 3 1/24/2010 at 11:48 (5,204 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Post# 409032 , Reply# 4 1/24/2010 at 12:48 (5,204 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions) |
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Post# 409069 , Reply# 5 1/24/2010 at 14:27 (5,204 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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TIGHT MT TRANSMISSION
It sounds like the top agitator shaft is tight in its bearings. Very little oil gets to this bearing coupled with the fact some moisture my be getting the bearing other than replacing the com-pleat trany, I had some luck turning the whole washer upside down for about a month or so to let some oil soak into the bearing area. with it upside down turn the main drive pulley ever once in a while to see if it has loosened up any. Mean while enjoy your new MT washer if its a top load model it should give you at least 20 years of great service.
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| Post# 409071 , Reply# 6 1/24/2010 at 14:46 (5,204 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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| Post# 409117 , Reply# 8 1/24/2010 at 16:32 (5,204 days old) by laundromat (Hilo, Hawaii) | ||
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| Post# 409151 , Reply# 10 1/24/2010 at 18:17 (5,204 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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"What I'd like to do is get the agitator off and get into the meat of this thing. Get a good look at the bearing "combo52" spoke of. Freshen everything up. Get into the transmission to do a complete cleaning and relube." If you want to get that involved, click, read, and study this link. Begin at Post# 358604. The previous posts deal with the older style Maytags. CLICK HERE TO GO TO qsd-dan's LINK | ||
| Post# 409173 , Reply# 12 1/24/2010 at 19:36 (5,204 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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are these seals still readily available? | ||
| Post# 409196 , Reply# 13 1/24/2010 at 21:23 (5,204 days old) by oldschool (SE PA. USA) | ||
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Sounds like a plan qsd-dan I'll break into it as soon as I get a spanner wrench. See if I can locate one maybe a little cheaper than the $30 one referenced in the link. Thanks for all the help. I'll keep youall posted. | ||
| Post# 409199 , Reply# 14 1/24/2010 at 21:37 (5,204 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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I'll break into it as soon as I get a spanner wrench.
You'll also need the brake tool. You'll probably want to rent that one as it's rather expensive to buy new.....if you can even still get one!
CLICK HERE TO GO TO qsd-dan's LINK on eBay | ||
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Post# 409248 , Reply# 15 1/25/2010 at 07:32 (5,203 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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MT transmission tear down
If you want to tear this apart you will need a new seal mounting steam kit. You don't need the spanner wrench (since you hre used to working on cars this is a piece of cake} just take a cold chisel and crack the tub lock nut ring in two. A new one comes in the seal kit and it usually won't unscrew any way after 30 yrs. Its best to just get a good doaner trans from an 80s MT unless you really want to spend a whole week of your time trying to fix this most trans pts are NLA for this washer. You don't need a brake tool to pull the trans out it just lifts out of the brake assembly when you remove the bottom drive pulley the brake stays in place.
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Post# 409372 , Reply# 18 1/25/2010 at 17:06 (5,203 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions) |
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| Post# 409407 , Reply# 19 1/25/2010 at 19:08 (5,203 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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unless you really want to spend a whole week of your time t
The trans comes all the way apart in a matter of minutes. There's only 7 moving parts in there and they're held by 2 e-clips and a screw for the fiber pinion. The o-ring is the only part that really needs to be replaced. The fiber pinon may need to be replaced if the machine was ridden HARD for long periods of time. Usually it'll display hairline cracks all over it, if that's the case. The only bugger is extracting that damn pin to remove the upper shaft in order to clean the varnished oil, which is where the root of the agitation problem lies. In the mid 80's, Maytag went to a lip seal that replaced the old o-ring one. The lips seals don't hold up nearly as well as the older o-ring seals do, but the trans doesn't require a complete tear down to change them out either. The pin for the upper shaft was also relocated to the middle of the gear, which makes the gear prone to being FUBAR'ed during the pin removal process. Personally, I'd stay away from the post 1985 transmissions with the lip seal. | ||
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Post# 409415 , Reply# 20 1/25/2010 at 19:21 (5,203 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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MT TUB SEAL KIT | ||
| Post# 409464 , Reply# 21 1/25/2010 at 20:49 (5,203 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA) | ||
Now, Dan...
You KNOW I'm gonna post a link to this thread showing you grunting on the 806 while I taught Stem & Boot 101... It also has part numbers at the end... Hope this helps! RCD CLICK HERE TO GO TO redcarpetdrew's LINK | ||
| Post# 409528 , Reply# 22 1/25/2010 at 22:46 (5,203 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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You KNOW I'm gonna post a link to this thread showing yo | ||
| Post# 409652 , Reply# 24 1/26/2010 at 11:19 (5,202 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA) | ||
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redcarpetdan? | ||
| Post# 409713 , Reply# 25 1/26/2010 at 15:11 (5,202 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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Fiber pinion....
It's still available as old stock (the fiber pinion was used in all Maytags automatic washers from 1949-1988), but you can purchase it from the following link for a cheaper price as most places will want at least $25 for it. Make sure you keep the pin from the old fiber pinion. Also, you'll want to replace the splined washer clutch. It's brass and usually gets gouged up under hard use. It's cheap though, about $3. Part is #211483. CLICK HERE TO GO TO qsd-dan's LINK | ||
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