Thread Number: 27599
Revisit Maytag A606 Agitator removal |
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Post# 423401 , Reply# 1   3/18/2010 at 13:26 (5,149 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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First, how important is the wicking in the upper housing for the agitator shaft?
Not important. Actually, Maytag discontinued use of the wicking in later machines. I guess they realized it did virtually nothing except deteriorate and make a mess. Just clean and liberally oil the bushings as well as the shaft during installation. Second, is there any other way to remove the brake assembly housing other than using the housing removal tool. Nope. If you can get a hold of the tool for $20, you are almost guaranteed to get more than that for it on ebay once you're done with it. I personally paid more than that but use the tool monthly, if not more frequently (used it last night). If you remove the brake, replace the damper pads!!! The old lube appeared to be similar if not the same as 90w gear lube. Can I substitute? It's actually comparable to straight 50 weight oil. Hold out for the real stuff, if you can. Might as well use it while it's still somewhat available. It won't be around the next time it's needed, that's for sure! Finding non-detergent 50 weight oil is extremely difficult anyway. You'll get at least 30+ years of use on the newer designed Maytag oil that doesn't break down and thicken up like the older formulations. |
Post# 423449 , Reply# 3   3/18/2010 at 18:26 (5,149 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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The brake assembly is easily removed with out a special wrench I removed them for years tapping on one of the screws that hold it together. When I finely got hold of the special brake tool it was harder to use than my old way I threw the tool in the metal recycling pile. 90w gear oil is fine in the transmission like wise for other lubricants use your good judgment if you are used to working on cars you have everything you need. As Dan said the oil MT used in thier gear box was junk it looked & smelled like something from a sewage plant and I don't think I would trust WP to pick a better lube for a machine they had no experience with. There is nothing critical about a washing machines lubrication compared to a car.
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Post# 423453 , Reply# 4   3/18/2010 at 18:46 (5,149 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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1) Splined washer (bronze/brass?) for the drive pinion gear
211483 2) Lug washer for same as above 211484 3) center seal grease Just use a good quality grease. 4) trans lube Recently was Y056080 > Now 6-0560800 (Whirlpool part #) 5) damper pads and lube for pads Damper pad kit includes the lube (polylube). 203956 6) adhesive for pads (is it contact cement?) Y055980 8) grease for splines into brake assembly Any decent quality grease. 7)lube for brake assembly? pad area? Do you mean the brake package internally? The brake package uses transmission oil. Just spill a teaspoon of trans fluid into the brake package before you dump it into the transmission. The damper pads are lubed with poly lube. It comes with the kit as stated above. I recommend using partstore.com if you're using an internet based store. They seem to have the most parts in stock and are quick about the entire process from start to finish. |
Post# 423454 , Reply# 5   3/18/2010 at 18:53 (5,149 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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90w gear oil is fine in the transmission like wise for other lubricants use your good judgment if you are used to working on cars you have everything you need.
Personally, I wouldn't use 90w unless you live in the tropics. Even with new Maytag oil, if the surrounding temps get below 40F, the trans will struggle a little until the oil warms up and thins out. I couldn't imagine trying to get the machine to agitate with 90w oil on a day below 50F. You'd probably end up stripping the fiber pinion gear. |
Post# 423530 , Reply# 6   3/19/2010 at 07:02 (5,149 days old) by dnastrau (Lords Valley, PA)   |   | |
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These folks say they have it in stock... CLICK HERE TO GO TO dnastrau's LINK |
Post# 423565 , Reply# 7   3/19/2010 at 10:35 (5,148 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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90 Weight oil is correct for non orbital transmissions according to my Repair Master book. The old brown stuff that MT used was even called grease it was around 120 weight. MTs need a very heavy oil to keep gear noise down due straight cut pinion and other gears. I really dough the mechanical sense of any one that would suggest 90 weight could cause gears to strip, even if the gear case was frozen solid no gears would strip it just wouldn't turn.
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Post# 423599 , Reply# 8   3/19/2010 at 14:49 (5,148 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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90 Weight oil is correct for non orbital transmissions according to my Repair Master book.
The helicals and orbitals always shared the same exact oil. Why would there be a difference? Did Maytag lower the weight of the oil with the introduction of the oribital trans? I know Maytag eventually changed the wringers over from some really thick oil to the same 05080 as the helical/orbital trannys. I really doubt the mechanical sense of any one that would suggest 90 weight could cause gears to strip, even if the gear case was frozen solid no gears would strip it just wouldn't turn. From my understanding, the fiber pinion sacrificed itself to save the metal gears in case the trans locked up. That's why most of the older transmissions that don't agitate usually have a sheared fiber pinion gear. I could be wrong though..... |
Post# 423627 , Reply# 9   3/19/2010 at 17:35 (5,148 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)   |   | |
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Post# 423638 , Reply# 10   3/19/2010 at 18:10 (5,148 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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