Thread Number: 27686
I know we all want our vintage washers to run forever but, be careful what you wish for!!!!
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Post# 424489   3/23/2010 at 21:35 (5,119 days old) by Pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

pulsator's profile picture
Well, I finally got my Maytag running with a proper center dial control panel after having a few circuit breaker pops occur... The only problem is, now it doesn't feel like paying attention to whether or not the timer is pushed in or pulled out, it just goes! It will however stop when placed in an off position. Any ideas?




Post# 424491 , Reply# 1   3/23/2010 at 21:57 (5,119 days old) by Pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        
Here she is!

pulsator's profile picture
Ok, so, I didn't show the front cuz the front, sides, and back are almond colored. lol

Post# 424754 , Reply# 2   3/25/2010 at 09:15 (5,117 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
I would wager this

jetcone's profile picture
at OFF you have a definite off because the timer switch has cut out the power, any other position you have to rely on the dial switch being in or out I forget which on a Maytag but somehow you have shorted out the in/out switch and by passed that. Usually there are two contacts on the timer that connect when the dial is in or out and they aren't wired into the circuit.



Post# 424758 , Reply# 3   3/25/2010 at 09:32 (5,117 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Yes the push/off pull/on bar has probably expanded ever so slightly due to heating over the years. The timer needs to be serviced, normally the push/pull switch is an easy fix.

Post# 424759 , Reply# 4   3/25/2010 at 09:38 (5,117 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

pulsator's profile picture
I'm guessing it involves taking the timer apart though... Not something I look forward to! I'll probably pull the timer and have my dad help me! :)

Post# 424761 , Reply# 5   3/25/2010 at 09:47 (5,117 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
That can usually be repaired by pulling the side panels off and not taking the entire timer apart. Never take the timer apart unless you absolutely have to, trust me I know lol.

Post# 424762 , Reply# 6   3/25/2010 at 09:52 (5,117 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

pulsator's profile picture
...Uh, that's actually what I meant... I'm not about to take the whole timer apart! Taking the sides off of it is bad enough!

Now, how hard is it to change the spin bearing? :)


Post# 425238 , Reply# 7   3/27/2010 at 19:04 (5,115 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        
Now, how hard is it to change the spin bearing? :)

qsd-dan's profile picture
Very easy! Now, getting the agitator out and the tub nut and stem seal off can be a whole different story ;) Even the worst case scenarios, it's still a much easier task than any other brand on the planet.

Post# 425408 , Reply# 8   3/28/2010 at 23:21 (5,114 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
MAYTAG WASHERS EASE OF REPAIR

combo52's profile picture
MT washers were not that easy to fix when they have drive-line problems. Most independent repair shops over the last 30 years or so would always throw all the MTs that came in away. They much preferred GE & WP and KM machines for rebuilding for resale purposes. The easiest washer to put main bearings in would have to be a GE FF washer you lift out the old transmission and drop in the remanufactured unit and $75 dollars later your done in less than 30 minutes, you don't even move the washer away from the wall. MTs are very well built and some repairs [belts,water pump ] are very easy. But by far the easiest washer ever would be the DD WPs followed by the GE FFs then I would go to the WP BDs.


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