Thread Number: 27747
My New Maytag A712 Washer |
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Post# 425271 , Reply# 1   3/28/2010 at 05:52 (5,141 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)   |   | |
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Post# 425276 , Reply# 2   3/28/2010 at 07:04 (5,141 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 425279 , Reply# 3   3/28/2010 at 08:12 (5,141 days old) by dnastrau (Lords Valley, PA)   |   | |
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Nice Maytag! You could try using a small artist's brush and some appliance touch up paint. That is what I did on my '61 Maytag. It isn't perfect but looks better than chipped porcelain. |
Post# 425284 , Reply# 4   3/28/2010 at 08:42 (5,141 days old) by Gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)   |   | |
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Yes, feel down towards the bottom of the agitator barrel and you will feel a round area where there is a bolt holding the agitator on. Use an allen wrench to loosen and tighten it. |
Post# 425335 , Reply# 6   3/28/2010 at 15:48 (5,141 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)   |   | |
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Congrats! A A712 is a great addition to any collection. You can try filling the tub with hot water up to where the base of the agitator is on the trans post. This does not have a 'drive block' like the older machines like the 700 or 142 has so it's agitator to shaft. Maytag made a puller for that style agitator. In fact, QSD_DAN just used ours to pull one off a 712 he was parting out. I'll try to see if I can take a picture of it so you can see what it looks like and possibly duplicate when I get in to the shop this week. The hot water may do the trick if it expands the agitator. God forbid, if you break it getting it off, there are TONS of that common style available!
RCD |
Post# 425371 , Reply# 8   3/28/2010 at 20:29 (5,140 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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Harry
the original hose for Maytags is expensive, and I think it only comes in 5 foot lengths, a longer one would be available maybe if you get one for a model without the anti-siphon, where it connects directly to the pump....next option is I have a few 5 footers, cut off the gooseneck, and use a few connectors, this would make it the length you need, and still be the thick hose your looking for, these puppies are stiff hoses, can't wait to see this machine up and running and loads of pics....i love your version because of all the speed options, mainly the high spins with the slow wash....something to keep in mind when running a long drain hose, also, theres a pulley option for the motor that makes the pump run faster for high pump out levels new toys are so much fun.....keep us posted |
Post# 425374 , Reply# 9   3/28/2010 at 20:34 (5,140 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)   |   | |
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Thanks...I'll try the pots of boiling water...hopefully it'll do the trick. Tell me, how much tub leaning is TOO MUCH? It maybe nothing but, it seems something is off-center. |
Post# 425382 , Reply# 10   3/28/2010 at 21:07 (5,140 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 425400 , Reply# 12   3/28/2010 at 22:39 (5,140 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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there's a throbbing, hard vibrating sound. The tub shakes TOO much for while being empty. The cabinet is stable but, the empty tub bumps against the cabinet as it complete the spin.
Something is seriously wrong! The "tree" should only shake very minimally during the spin cycle, if at all, with an empty tub. First, check all 3 springs and make sure there aren't any broken ones, or ones that are missing the lower anchor and double nut. If that checks out, the springs may need some serious adjustments. If the inner tub was ever removed for any reason (stem and seal replacement or a complete overhaul), the person doing the job may have not taken the time to "center" the inner tub before putting the machine back together. Usually there will be a scrapping sound of the inner tub rubbing (or smacking) against the outer tub if it's waaaaay out of center. It doesn't take much, though. This would be a good opportunity to check and or lube and or replace the damper pads. Doing any of those requires the springs to be re-adjusted. Might as well kill 2 birds with one stone! |
Post# 425424 , Reply# 14   3/29/2010 at 00:49 (5,140 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)   |   | |
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Hey guys, I'm letting the washer agitate with the boiling hot water and the "Power-Fin" agitator will not release itself from the shaft. |
Post# 425513 , Reply# 16   3/29/2010 at 13:53 (5,140 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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When tightening the springs do I make the adjustment from underneath the baseframe only?
Yes. I use a 4X4 piece of wood and place it under the right (looking at the machine) front foot. It will allow you to slide under and reach all 3 springs nuts. Should I adjust all 3 springs? Adjust only the spring(s) that allow the tub to become center. From there, you must keep an eye on the spin cycles while doing laundry and judge if any spring (or all) need to be tightened to bring the tub center or keep the machine from going out of balance too easily. It takes a few loads of laundry to get them adjusted to perfection. When the tub starts spinning there's a vibrating (RUMBLING) sound. Yeah, that's probably the radial bearing going. You'll need the brake tool to remove the brake package. Once the brake package is off, turn it upside down and the bearing will usually fall right out. Install in reverse. You'll need to re-adjust the lug stop after installing the pulley. It's easy and is probably off anyway. Should I replace the Brake Package System? Don't replace it unless the tub is indexing during agitation. If the brake makes any noise while braking after a spin, it just needs a teaspoon or so of thick oil dumped into it. |
Post# 425524 , Reply# 19   3/29/2010 at 14:44 (5,140 days old) by dnastrau (Lords Valley, PA)   |   | |
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I use a bubble level like a carpenter would use - see my link for example. You can pick up a cheap one almost anywhere that you can buy tools. CLICK HERE TO GO TO dnastrau's LINK |
Post# 425529 , Reply# 20   3/29/2010 at 14:51 (5,140 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)   |   | |
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make sense...I figured that...can't go wrong with the leveler. |
Post# 425530 , Reply# 21   3/29/2010 at 14:51 (5,140 days old) by dnastrau (Lords Valley, PA)   |   | |
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...and are available through nearly any parts supplier. |
Post# 425533 , Reply# 22   3/29/2010 at 14:55 (5,140 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)   |   | |
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you read my mind (LOL) |
Post# 425534 , Reply# 23   3/29/2010 at 14:58 (5,140 days old) by dnastrau (Lords Valley, PA)   |   | |
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...since I am usually asking lots of questions instead. Good luck getting it running smoothly. Based on all that I know you have yourself an excellent machine! |
Post# 425535 , Reply# 24   3/29/2010 at 15:00 (5,140 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)   |   | |
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Right now, I'm trying the boiling water and towels placed or wrapped on or around the agitator and soaking... I hope this works. Is there anything I can put in the water that could help losen the agitator? |
Post# 425539 , Reply# 25   3/29/2010 at 15:10 (5,140 days old) by dnastrau (Lords Valley, PA)   |   | |
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I'd stick with hot water at this point if I were dealing with the same issue. |
Post# 425550 , Reply# 26   3/29/2010 at 15:45 (5,140 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)   |   | |
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I'll keep you posted. |
Post# 425583 , Reply# 27   3/29/2010 at 18:10 (5,140 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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I noticed the eye bolt and nut moved along with the spring. This made me wonder if I had to (hold) the nut still while I tightened the nut underneath the baseframe.
Keep cranking on the nut, it'll eventually break free. It's common to have some schmutz or rust on the threads of the anchor bolt and it'll twist the spring around a little bit until the nut breaks free. Just to be sure, how do you determine first what spring or springs need to be tightened. Adjust the spring opposite of where the tub is leaning out of center. Example: If the tub is leaning diagonally to the front right, you'd adjust the left rear spring to bring it back to center. is there a such a thing as TOO TIGHT? YES!!! You want the springs adjusted tight enough that the machine doesn't easily go off balance. If the springs are adjusted too tight, it'll transmit vibrations to the cabinet during the spin and you'll think you have a GM Frigidaire washer vibrating and skating across the floor (ahhhhhh brings back memories of using the WCI-63, lol) Also, if the springs are adjusted too tight, you'll wear out the damper pads at a much quicker rate. It's a balancing act, but it doesn't take too much effort to find the sweet spot. |
Post# 425961 , Reply# 33   3/31/2010 at 20:08 (5,137 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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Harry...
the new pulley will give the pump the so called 50hz speed but the agitation and spin will not be affected.... also...your machine may also have a "fuse" located within the lid switch block....just in case it blows and the whole machine stops...simple little auto type small amp fuse...I have gotten more maytags from peope saying it stopped working and threw it out just because of a little fuse they did not know about....rather than call a service guy...easier for them to buy new....go figure... |
Post# 425967 , Reply# 34   3/31/2010 at 21:02 (5,137 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)   |   | |
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Martin, I guess it's not blown because it's working. I don't know what caused the pop...it's still fine. Did you read the email and can you post the pics again? Tell me what you think. |
Post# 425970 , Reply# 35   3/31/2010 at 21:17 (5,137 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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I will post the pics again in this thread....I got your email, but it won't let me reply for some damn reason....I figure that out later....3 kidney stones have me in and out of the hosp very little sleep in 4 days, just a lot of major pain and major pain killers....just odd to be carried in from the parking lot by the guards....I'll get better soon...just very tired....
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Post# 425976 , Reply# 36   3/31/2010 at 21:41 (5,137 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)   |   | |
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try the email again...there wasn't a problem the first time you replied. |
Post# 426118 , Reply# 37   4/1/2010 at 14:26 (5,137 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 426119 , Reply# 38   4/1/2010 at 14:31 (5,137 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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3 slots...and 3 springs....installed...easy as pie....and you don't have to take the motor out to install or remove the springs...just best to unplug for safety.....unless your gonna replace the sliders also...remove 2 belts and 3 screws, and the motor pops out....also remember to replace the ground wire when done
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Post# 426261 , Reply# 39   4/2/2010 at 06:40 (5,136 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)   |   | |
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Thanks Martin for the pictiures...I thought there were more...I keep them for visual references...it's extremely helpful for me. |
Post# 426279 , Reply# 40   4/2/2010 at 07:53 (5,136 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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I probably have about 2 more, but all they show is me using needlenose pliers to pull the spring from the front to the back and attaching the spring in the slot....like I said it can be done without removing the motor....if is a orbital drive usually the factory springs are both on the left sie, and I add one more to the right....helical drives seem to have a factory spring on each side...i was just a mater of where they wanted the torque to be applied the most, durng wash or spin
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Post# 426314 , Reply# 41   4/2/2010 at 11:32 (5,136 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)   |   | |
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OK! Is there something on the motor carriage that indicates the function (agitate & spin)? |
Post# 429181 , Reply# 42   4/16/2010 at 07:21 (5,122 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york)   |   | |
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My 712 "AGITATION" is unusually loud and noisy, not that good ole' Maytag quiet wash...what's going on...is something not working correctly with transmission...what do I need to do to quiet her down? |
Post# 699852 , Reply# 43   8/29/2013 at 18:41 (3,891 days old) by maytaga806 (Howell, Michigan)   |   | |
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Post# 1129450 , Reply# 44   9/23/2021 at 19:25 (943 days old) by Chef (California)   |   | |
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The motor mounts came factory with 2 springs? But adding an additional 3rd spring is recommended? |
Post# 1129454 , Reply# 45   9/23/2021 at 20:10 (943 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 1129483 , Reply# 46   9/24/2021 at 07:25 (943 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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And they really helped if you wanted to use the machine to full capacity with large wash loads to keep the main belt from slipping under load when agitating.
It also helps to add a motor start capacitor to ALL MT HD washers, not only will you have less problems with the motor starting but it can save the timer & lid switch contacts from failure.
I have never seen a top agitator shaft start to seize in a MT washer new enough to have this improved 3 spring motor mount, but it could happen some day.
John L. |
Post# 1129538 , Reply# 47   9/24/2021 at 21:38 (942 days old) by Good-Shepherd (New Jersey)   |   | |
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Wasn't that a design feature of the Maytag, i.e. the washer gives in to an overload situation and the belt is allowed to slip instead of the machine taking the beating? |
Post# 1129540 , Reply# 48   9/24/2021 at 21:56 (942 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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And they really helped if you wanted to use the machine to full capacity with large wash loads to keep the main belt from slipping under load when agitating. Only my all original '67 806 slips a bit when cold. The upper bearing is seizing up in it and I've been lazy about replacing it. Other than that machine, the rest of my Maytags do not slip at all with a large load. It also helps to add a motor start capacitor to ALL MT HD washers
Agreed I have never seen a top agitator shaft start to seize in a MT washer new enough to have this improved 3 spring motor mount, but it could happen some day.
Maytag began using the 3 spring mount in the 12 series machines. I have come across 2 that had a completely seized upper bearings in the pitman transmission. These transmissions are no less immune to the problem than previous generations. |