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Thread Number: 28639
"Up In Smoke" Or "The Spectular Finale to a Series of Inglis Issues" |
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Post# 437295 5/25/2010 at 07:02 (5,083 days old) by turquoisedude  (.) |
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EEESH!! I have done SOMETHING to tick off the gods of vintage appliances... I don't talk of it a lot here, but I have a pretty reliable 'daily driver' washer - my 1966 Inglis. It is a Whirlpool clone and it does a great job overall. Well, it did anyway...
The fun all started when I got a Repair-Master book for Whirlpool and Kenmore washers. The Inglis had been getting noisy so I had a look in the book and a potential cause may have been the snubber. I took the lid off and here's what I found... 
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Post# 437296 , Reply# 1 5/25/2010 at 07:03 (5,083 days old) by turquoisedude (.) |
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Post# 437297 , Reply# 2 5/25/2010 at 07:04 (5,083 days old) by turquoisedude (.) |
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Post# 437298 , Reply# 3 5/25/2010 at 07:05 (5,083 days old) by turquoisedude (.) |
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Post# 437299 , Reply# 4 5/25/2010 at 07:07 (5,083 days old) by turquoisedude (.) |
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Post# 437300 , Reply# 5 5/25/2010 at 07:09 (5,083 days old) by turquoisedude (.) |
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Post# 437302 , Reply# 6 5/25/2010 at 07:17 (5,083 days old) by turquoisedude (.) |
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Situation Analysis
I was pretty upset, as you can imagine. Hubby's comments about having a new 'three-strike' rule for vintage washers were not appreciated...
I did just a brief inspection and found the agitator is frozen solid. The tub still turns, though. I am thinking that something in the transmission went bad - something broke or fell off and has jammed it. When the motor started, the belt probably kept turning and started to burn, causing the foul smelling smoke. I am cautiously optimistic that the motor is still OK... HOWEVER, I am convinced I can make this Inglis wash again! In fact, I could use this as an opportunity to do a complete recon job (the tub could stand being re-coated). I am pretty sure that I will be able to find the parts needed - If I have to perhaps I can use a newer transmission and motor. So, although I wasn't looking for new 'projects' this summer, I have a good learning opportunifty here - my first top-loader restoration! Oh, and I don't know why I am thinking of this now, but is a special tool needed to remove a KM-Whirlpool agitator shaft?? If so, are such things still available?? | ||
| Post# 437308 , Reply# 7 5/25/2010 at 07:49 (5,083 days old) by aldspinboy (Philadelphia, Pa) | ||
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Post# 437316 , Reply# 8 5/25/2010 at 08:20 (5,083 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC) |
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Paul -
If this were my situation, before I was to accept that the transmission locked-up (that is not common), I would trace the problem a little further by removing the belt and turning the individual pulleys. First, the motor (I HAVE had one or two of those suddenly and rather violently seize, one when my face was inches from the motor as I inspected the workings). Then, I would check the pump - they commonly lock and cause burned belts, etc. and might even over-torque the motor and make your breaker trip. Lastly I'd check the basket drive pulley, however it is probably fine. With the belt off, the transmission pulley should freely rotate in either direction, even while engaged in agitate. The locked agitator is quite possibly due to the machine having engaged agitation before the clamity. Once they do that, they are properly locked and nothing is wrong. It is nearly impossible to turn a locked agitator except in a highly worn gearcase, at least in my experience. As to available parts, there are a few transmissions out there, though the new ones I've seen have been around $150 before shipping. New agitator shafts are TOUGH to find, but you shouldn't need one if you have a drive-block (bakelite) agitator unless it has significant grooves worn in it. My bet is on the pump or motor. Btw - that new snubber may become noisy after while - they make this wicked rubbery sound when they wear-in and it drives me nuts. Rubbing them on a cement driveway to scuff them up a bit once this happens was Whirlpool's recommendation. Gordon This post was last edited 05/25/2010 at 10:11 | ||
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Post# 437317 , Reply# 9 5/25/2010 at 08:26 (5,083 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC) |
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One other thought - there should be a good supply of used transmissions out there if that does turn out to be the culprit. A gearcase for almost (note I say 'ALMOST') any belt-drive machine should fit yours, late 50s on up to 1987, but you'll probably have to add a plastic drive block to later gearcases, but that's simple.
There is a one in a million shot that you'll find a 1973 or older 18lb. machine as a trans donor. If you do, the agitator shaft is too long, but bail on that anyway - the machine needs to be put in a shrine! Gordon | ||
| Post# 437340 , Reply# 10 5/25/2010 at 11:33 (5,083 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY) | ||
Hubby's comments about having a new 'three-strike
Made me laugh!
What does the snubber do. Relieved to hear that the noise my LK makes is due to the fact that the machine was rarely used and everything seems brand new. I kinda hum along with it "Rub-a-dub-dub!" it goes. Best of luck on your repair. Have you tried pressing your arms hard against the inside of the tub and turning it back and forth? That relieved my seized WP. | ||
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Post# 437445 , Reply# 11 5/25/2010 at 18:09 (5,082 days old) by turquoisedude (.) |
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Gordon - Thanks for the tips! I will be taking a run at this on the weekend... This may indeed not be as bad as I think!!
Michael - the snubber is, from what I can figure from Repair Master, meant to keep the tub from rocking too much in the event of a severely unbalanced load. Oh, and if anyone ever needs to refer to the Repair-Master, it covers machines from the late 50s up to the 70s - I am always happy to copy or scan pages (or the whole thing) for anyone who may need it! | ||
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Post# 437450 , Reply# 13 5/25/2010 at 18:31 (5,082 days old) by KenmoreGuy64 (Charlotte, NC) |
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Paul - about the snubber - in the U.S. machines the snubber end that is NOT bolted-in fits in a notch right in the center of the mounting hole. If there is a notch on yours too (everything else looks identical) then the snubber will be more effective if it is installed in that notch as it is a raised area that ads even more pressure to the snubber spring.
As to what the snubber does, you are correct but it is designed to stabilize the whole superstructure, during wash as well as spin. If you run a machine without one, the difference is remarkable. Gordon | ||
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