Thread Number: 29463
What a Quandry -Washer Dryer Set |
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Post# 448058 , Reply# 1   7/9/2010 at 11:43 (5,011 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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IT sounds like your motor isn't running on slow speed. If it's a 2-speed motor, a used one can be had for about 25 bucks and it's super-easy to replace. If the motor is fine and the control system isn't telling it to go to slow speed, than you have a tougher nut to crack.
My vote would be to fix the old set. It will outlast a new one. Dave |
Post# 448071 , Reply# 2   7/9/2010 at 13:27 (5,011 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)   |   | |
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i would fix the old one-one thing about DDs is they are super easy to work on and new and used parts are very avalible -will far outlast import junk. Besides that's a cool set anyway. |
Post# 448103 , Reply# 3   7/9/2010 at 15:12 (5,011 days old) by davek ()   |   | |
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I'd fix the DD and agree 100% with the others' diagnosis. Not the transmission or coupler, though I'd do as you said and replace the pump, hoses, and coupler while in there. |
Post# 448104 , Reply# 4   7/9/2010 at 15:12 (5,011 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)   |   | |
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How would I go about testing the motor to see if it will run on slow speed? |
Post# 448124 , Reply# 5   7/9/2010 at 17:08 (5,011 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()   |   | |
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Most parts for DD machines are easy to find. Allen's model is electronic. Check the board as well. That part could be NLA by now. |
Post# 448143 , Reply# 8   7/9/2010 at 19:04 (5,011 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)   |   | |
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the control board will have some relays on it to switch the motor-the one for the low speed may have burnt contacts,bad solder joint,etc. |
Post# 448148 , Reply# 9   7/9/2010 at 19:32 (5,011 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)   |   | |
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OK, first thing in the morning I will take some photos of the boards, and look for the diagnostic information sheet. |
Post# 448199 , Reply# 12   7/9/2010 at 23:03 (5,011 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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Post# 448206 , Reply# 13   7/9/2010 at 23:35 (5,011 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)   |   | |
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The "Gentile" cycle? I loved that! I tried that the machine fills, but then it never starts to agitate. The timer counts down and when it gets to zero, it starts a spin. |
Post# 448214 , Reply# 14   7/10/2010 at 00:02 (5,011 days old) by tolivac (greenville nc)   |   | |
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I am for fixing the WP too-forget the imported,overpriced,FL junk.Don't be fooled by their pretty faces. |
Post# 448227 , Reply# 17   7/10/2010 at 02:02 (5,011 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)   |   | |
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I found the tech sheets for the washer. Where would I find the special test switch to test the control boards? It's shown in the diagnostics. CLICK HERE TO GO TO whirlcool's LINK |
Post# 448230 , Reply# 18   7/10/2010 at 02:20 (5,011 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)   |   | |
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According to this diagram, the switch looks just like something to short the pins on P5. What do you all think? CLICK HERE TO GO TO whirlcool's LINK |
Post# 448231 , Reply# 19   7/10/2010 at 02:22 (5,011 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)   |   | |
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for members who may encounter an electronically controlled Whirlpool in the future. Maybe Robert could add this to the library. CLICK HERE TO GO TO whirlcool's LINK |
Post# 448272 , Reply# 21   7/10/2010 at 11:48 (5,010 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)   |   | |
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According to the tech sheet the test switch is a standard N.O. switch. What is a N.O. switch? |
Post# 448277 , Reply# 22   7/10/2010 at 12:15 (5,010 days old) by Maytagbear (N.E. Ohio)   |   | |
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a Yes switch? (I don't have a clue, either, Allen.) However, I agree with the chorus of "fix it!" Lawrence/Maytagbear |
Post# 448317 , Reply# 23   7/10/2010 at 15:35 (5,010 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Post# 449329 , Reply# 25   7/14/2010 at 23:21 (5,006 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)   |   | |
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OK, I got around to diagnosing the problem. The diagnostic "hangs up" when it gets to the Knits/Gentle mode. I guess that means that I need a new controller board. It's WP part AP2906124. Does anyone have one of these laying around? |
Post# 449348 , Reply# 26   7/15/2010 at 00:00 (5,006 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)   |   | |
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if you are used to basic electronics repair,could look over the board for bad solder joints,test some of the components (diodes,relays etc)to see if a quick repair job could be done. |
Post# 449375 , Reply# 27   7/15/2010 at 03:47 (5,006 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Allen, there are two boards in the machine. The microcomputer board sends low-voltage control signals to a separate transformer/relay motor board to run high and low speed, agitate and spin (motor direction). The motor board has relays to switch 120v line current to the motor. It could be the motor board that's bad, not the computer board. Could also be the centrifugal start switch, or the low speed winding on the motor. Both boards are quite expensive, so you need to make sure of what is bad. The tech sheet outlines a specific troubleshooting path for High Motor fail, but nothing for Low Motor fail. It's not clear (to me, anyway) what should be the low speed signal between the computer & motor board. Regards to "hangs up when it gets to the Knits/Gentle mode," you're running the jumper-switch test? Sequence of 1) cold fill; 2) warm fill; 3) hot fill; 4) agitate low; 5) agitate high; 6) drain; 7) spin low; 8) spin high; 9) all LEDs lit. It gets stuck in that sequence at step 4? |
Post# 449378 , Reply# 28   7/15/2010 at 04:09 (5,006 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Oh, wow. SearsParts was down earlier, so I was checking a different source for prices. Sears is considerably lower price on the two boards (although still not exactly "inexpensive"). The microcomputer board is listed as "reconditioned." The part number you state above seems to be a particular vendor's internal number. Per Sears (which lists the correct manufacturer part numbers), the microcomputer is 3407003, or 3407003R for reconditioned. The transformer/relay board is 3407048, also substituted to 3407048R. There are other sources to check, of course. |
Post# 449501 , Reply# 29   7/15/2010 at 16:10 (5,005 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)   |   | |
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I have a friend who troubleshoots circuit boards down to the board level. I may have him look at these. But he's expensive. Hmm, replacement of both boards would be about $450. He's got to be cheaper than that! |
Post# 449509 , Reply# 31   7/15/2010 at 16:36 (5,005 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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