Thread Number: 29463
What a Quandry -Washer Dryer Set
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Post# 448054   7/9/2010 at 11:36 (5,011 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

As you know, we have a 93 Whirlpool TOL Electronic Washer & Dryer set.
Recently, I believe the washers transmission is going south on us. It won't operate at low speed at all. It just sits there. Normal agitation speed works, except for the last 6 minutes which is susposed to be slow agitation on Normal wash mode.

So I figured for about $300.00 I could put in a new transmission, pump, coupler and new internal hoses and be good for another 17 years or so. The machine is in excellent cosmetic condition.

Just for the heck of it we stopped by a local appliance store and looked at some washer/dryer sets. Of course the store was stocked to the rafters with LG. But the store also carried Maytag & Whirpool machines. We came across a Samsung WF330ANW washer. It appears to be very sturdy. It has that diamond texture drum. It also has the VRT system. But no steam or silvercare. It has all the cycles we would want. I asked the price, and the salesperson noted that it is $599.00, but I could get it for $569.00 with free delivery & setup. The same price for the dryer too. Hmmm, About $1200.00 for the set.

The question is should we repair our Whirlpool set and keep it or head off for the world of FL bliss? The only considerations I have is that my clothing must be well rinsed (or I itch like hell) and we do wash pet beds with dog hair on them. And we would be washing a queen sized comforter on occasion.

What do you all think we should do? We are deadlocked here on a decision.






Post# 448058 , Reply# 1   7/9/2010 at 11:43 (5,011 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
WP

volvoguy87's profile picture
IT sounds like your motor isn't running on slow speed. If it's a 2-speed motor, a used one can be had for about 25 bucks and it's super-easy to replace. If the motor is fine and the control system isn't telling it to go to slow speed, than you have a tougher nut to crack.

My vote would be to fix the old set. It will outlast a new one.
Dave


Post# 448071 , Reply# 2   7/9/2010 at 13:27 (5,011 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        
fix it

i would fix the old one-one thing about DDs is they are super
easy to work on and new and used parts are very avalible
-will far outlast import junk.
Besides that's a cool set anyway.


Post# 448103 , Reply# 3   7/9/2010 at 15:12 (5,011 days old) by davek ()        

I'd fix the DD and agree 100% with the others' diagnosis. Not the transmission or coupler, though I'd do as you said and replace the pump, hoses, and coupler while in there.

Post# 448104 , Reply# 4   7/9/2010 at 15:12 (5,011 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

How would I go about testing the motor to see if it will run on slow speed?

Post# 448124 , Reply# 5   7/9/2010 at 17:08 (5,011 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

Most parts for DD machines are easy to find. Allen's model is electronic. Check the board as well. That part could be NLA by now.

Post# 448140 , Reply# 6   7/9/2010 at 18:45 (5,011 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

Melvin:

The washer has two boards in it, the power supply board and the minicomputer board. The boards are available for about $200.00 each.
Someone mentioned to me that there may be an onboard diagnostic that would tell me what board is at fault. Has anyone ever heard of this?

Tomorrow I am going to take the control panel apart and reseat all the connectors on the boards to make sure they have a good connection. Somehow, I think that the control boards are going to be where the problem resides.

BTW, the model number is LA9800Tn1. With the n1 indicating the color, almond.


Post# 448141 , Reply# 7   7/9/2010 at 18:55 (5,011 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

I was meaning the computer board, but does not hurt to test both. There should be a data sheet or schematic in the console area. Usually they have the key sequences on the data sheets to put it in diagnostic mode, as well as the error codes. We need some pictures of these boards.

Post# 448143 , Reply# 8   7/9/2010 at 19:04 (5,011 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        
relays on the board

the control board will have some relays on it to switch the
motor-the one for the low speed may have burnt contacts,bad
solder joint,etc.


Post# 448148 , Reply# 9   7/9/2010 at 19:32 (5,011 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

OK, first thing in the morning I will take some photos of the boards, and look for the diagnostic information sheet.

Post# 448178 , Reply# 10   7/9/2010 at 21:50 (5,011 days old) by mtn1584 (USA)        

DO IT ONCE, DO IT RIGHT, SPEND YOUR MONEY ON FIXING THE WHIRLPOOL. IF IT BREAKS AGAIN, IT CAN EASILY BE FIXED, THE SAME CANNOT BE SAID FOR THESE NEW PIECE OF !@#$ FRONT LOADERS THE DAM GOVT. IS JAMMING DOWN OUR THROATS. WHEN THE SPIDER BREAKS ON THAT SAMSUNG, AND THE MACHINE SMELLS LIKE MOLD, GUESS WHAT, YOU CAN'T FIX IT, AND THUS IT BECOMES GARBAGE, MORE FILL IN THE JUNKYARD, DOES ANYONE ELSE OUT THERE GET THIS, NOT YOU GUYS, BUT THE ELITIST WHO THINKS THAT SAVING WATER, AND PAYING THESE PRICES FOR JUNK EVERY COUPLE OF YEARS IS OK....SORRY FOR THE RANT, BUT FIX THE WHIRLPOOL, YOU'LL BE GLAD YOU DID.
MIKE


Post# 448198 , Reply# 11   7/9/2010 at 22:32 (5,011 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

We have been happy with the Whirlpools performance. It really does get the clothes clean.

There are no dents or scratches on the set, the tub is like new so that's why I am considering overhauling it and probably getting another 17 years out of it.

It's not that much of a water hog, the manual states that it is a 29 gallon fill on the default normal mode. And being direct drive most parts will be available for at least the next 50 years.


Post# 448199 , Reply# 12   7/9/2010 at 23:03 (5,011 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
Try something.

volvoguy87's profile picture
Try running it on a gentile cycle. Slow wash and slow spin. If it does that, then the motor is fine but the control system is acting up. If it does nothing, it could be the control or the motor.

Dave


Post# 448206 , Reply# 13   7/9/2010 at 23:35 (5,011 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

The "Gentile" cycle? I loved that!

I tried that the machine fills, but then it never starts to agitate. The timer counts down and when it gets to zero, it starts a spin.


Post# 448214 , Reply# 14   7/10/2010 at 00:02 (5,011 days old) by tolivac (greenville nc)        

I am for fixing the WP too-forget the imported,overpriced,FL junk.Don't be fooled by their pretty faces.

Post# 448216 , Reply# 15   7/10/2010 at 00:09 (5,011 days old) by duet83 ()        

fix the Whirlpools. They are so cool. Got to see pics too.

An easy way of testing the motor is to switch the wires that go to the slow and fast speed. I believe the slow speed is the orange wire, off the top of my head. Someone else would know more.


Post# 448225 , Reply# 16   7/10/2010 at 01:21 (5,011 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

Is there somewhere to get the service manual for this washer?

I was amazed to find out that even the wash basket is still available for this machine. The one we have is in great shape. Since this washer/dryer set was always used indoors in an conditioned environment there is no rust anywhere on them.

If you want to see more of this set, click on the link. BTW, the control panels do not look that scratched up in person. The flash picks up everthing!


CLICK HERE TO GO TO whirlcool's LINK


Post# 448227 , Reply# 17   7/10/2010 at 02:02 (5,011 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        
Bingo!

I found the tech sheets for the washer.
Where would I find the special test switch to test the control boards? It's shown in the diagnostics.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO whirlcool's LINK


Post# 448230 , Reply# 18   7/10/2010 at 02:20 (5,011 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

According to this diagram, the switch looks just like something to short the pins on P5.

What do you all think?


CLICK HERE TO GO TO whirlcool's LINK


Post# 448231 , Reply# 19   7/10/2010 at 02:22 (5,011 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        
And this may be valuable...

for members who may encounter an electronically controlled Whirlpool in the future. Maybe Robert could add this to the library.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO whirlcool's LINK


Post# 448246 , Reply# 20   7/10/2010 at 07:36 (5,010 days old) by supremewhirlpol ()        

According to the tech sheet the test switch is a standard N.O. switch. You can wire one together for your diagnostic testing. Tech sheets also show and tell you which wires to check for voltage, etc with your multimeter. I'd say you're all set to do the testing!

Post# 448272 , Reply# 21   7/10/2010 at 11:48 (5,010 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

According to the tech sheet the test switch is a standard N.O. switch.

What is a N.O. switch?


Post# 448277 , Reply# 22   7/10/2010 at 12:15 (5,010 days old) by Maytagbear (N.E. Ohio)        
The opposite of

a Yes switch?


(I don't have a clue, either, Allen.) However, I agree with the chorus of "fix it!"


Lawrence/Maytagbear


Post# 448317 , Reply# 23   7/10/2010 at 15:35 (5,010 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
N.O. is "normally open."  The switch is OFF (the contacts do not touch) in its normal, at-rest position and turns ON when depressed.

N.C. is the opposite, "normally closed," which is a switch that is ON in its normal position and turns OFF when depressed.


Post# 448491 , Reply# 24   7/11/2010 at 14:53 (5,009 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

Thanks Glen, I appreciate the explanation. I'm trying to get to the washer to diagnosis it, but Karen has a bunch of things she wants me to do first.

I have decided we are going to keep this set and see if we can get another 17 years out of them. The set cost us $1800. new.
We'd like to get more of our money out of them. Since they still look like brand new, I am betting we will!


Post# 449329 , Reply# 25   7/14/2010 at 23:21 (5,006 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

OK, I got around to diagnosing the problem. The diagnostic "hangs up" when it gets to the Knits/Gentle mode. I guess that means that I need a new controller board.
It's WP part AP2906124. Does anyone have one of these laying around?


Post# 449348 , Reply# 26   7/15/2010 at 00:00 (5,006 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        
board repairs

if you are used to basic electronics repair,could look over
the board for bad solder joints,test some of the components
(diodes,relays etc)to see if a quick repair job could be done.


Post# 449375 , Reply# 27   7/15/2010 at 03:47 (5,006 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Allen, there are two boards in the machine.  The microcomputer board sends low-voltage control signals to a separate transformer/relay motor board to run high and low speed, agitate and spin (motor direction).  The motor board has relays to switch 120v line current to the motor.  It could be the motor board that's bad, not the computer board.  Could also be the centrifugal start switch, or the low speed winding on the motor.

Both boards are quite expensive, so you need to make sure of what is bad.

The tech sheet outlines a specific troubleshooting path for High Motor fail, but nothing for Low Motor fail.  It's not clear (to me, anyway) what should be the low speed signal between the computer & motor board.

Regards to "hangs up when it gets to the Knits/Gentle mode," you're running the jumper-switch test?  Sequence of 1) cold fill; 2) warm fill; 3) hot fill; 4) agitate low; 5) agitate high; 6) drain; 7) spin low; 8) spin high; 9) all LEDs lit.  It gets stuck in that sequence at step 4?


Post# 449378 , Reply# 28   7/15/2010 at 04:09 (5,006 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Oh, wow.  SearsParts was down earlier, so I was checking a different source for prices.  Sears is considerably lower price on the two boards (although still not exactly "inexpensive").  The microcomputer board is listed as "reconditioned."

The part number you state above seems to be a particular vendor's internal number.  Per Sears (which lists the correct manufacturer part numbers), the microcomputer is 3407003, or 3407003R for reconditioned.  The transformer/relay board is 3407048, also substituted to 3407048R.

There are other sources to check, of course.


Post# 449501 , Reply# 29   7/15/2010 at 16:10 (5,005 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

I have a friend who troubleshoots circuit boards down to the board level. I may have him look at these. But he's expensive.
Hmm, replacement of both boards would be about $450. He's got to be cheaper than that!


Post# 449506 , Reply# 30   7/15/2010 at 16:29 (5,005 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

My buddy who does electronic work said he'd work on them and repair them if needed for $75.00. That's a deal. But he needs the schematics for them. Does WP have the schematics of these boards available.

He said he can replace transistors, diodes, resistors, IC's and CPU's as well as checking for continuity in the boards. Years ago he was a radar tech in the Navy, so he knows his electronics.
He currently has his own company that installs and repairs high end electronics.


Post# 449509 , Reply# 31   7/15/2010 at 16:36 (5,005 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
And there's always Ebay...

CLICK HERE TO GO TO qsd-dan's LINK on eBay



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