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Thread Number: 29936
NEED URGENT RECOMMENDATION on new Top Loader! |
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| Post# 455012 8/6/2010 at 15:53 (5,004 days old) by DanManTN (Tennessee) | ||
My sister is in dire need of a new toploader (as of this morning). Of course I recommended Speed Queen, but being on a strict budget, she will need to use her store account with Lowe's to purchase...which makes SQ not an option.
She is very hard on washers (not physically), but she has a family of 7. She will wash very large loads most of the time and her teenage children know nothing of proper laundry care or loading of the machine...so the machine will not have a pampered life. Her current WP has lasted 10 years. I'm sure those days are gone. Which model would you recommend for her that is available at Lowe's (model nums please). Needs to be built like a tank (if that's even possible anymore). She wants to get something this weekend, and I'm trying to help her make a good choice, but don't know much about what's good in TL land that's avail at Lowe's. Budget is between $200 and $400ish. | ||
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Post# 455098 , Reply# 1 8/6/2010 at 23:31 (5,004 days old) by Frigilux  (The Minnesota Prairie) |
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| Post# 455110 , Reply# 2 8/7/2010 at 00:59 (5,004 days old) by LordKenmore (The Laundry Room) | ||
I'd probably be most inclined to consider Whirlpool based. I still hear of some people happy with new, cheap Whirlpool machines--one person here has, the last I recall hearing, had good luck with an Admiral.
Thought #2: My attitude is that given the build quality of today, one might as well buy as cheap as possible. (Unless, of course, one is able to consider Miele or Speed Queen!) Thought #3: Since this is going on account, it makes the "cheap as possible" even more appealing in my mind. (Pay it off sooner, and less interest.) Thought #4: Prices may vary. I've looked at Lowes website, and the fact that some prices are hidden unless a ZIP code is entered suggests that prices may vary. So a great buy mentioned here might not apply to your sister's Lowes. All this said, and I think I'd start by looking at Roper. The top model listed (model # RTW4440VQ) seems to have the basics--4 water temperatures, 2 speeds, etc. It's smaller capacity than Eugene's pick (3.2 cubic feet vs. 3.5), but it's also cheaper at $329 in my area. There is a cheaper model at $298, but it's considerably more stripped down: 2.5 feet capacity, 2 water temperatures, one speed. As cheap as I am, I'd cough up that extra $30. | ||
| Post# 455113 , Reply# 3 8/7/2010 at 02:10 (5,004 days old) by lebron (Minnesota) | ||
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| Post# 455129 , Reply# 4 8/7/2010 at 06:27 (5,004 days old) by DanManTN (Tennessee) | ||
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Thanks for the recommendations. Her current Whirlpool will not drain (direct drive), I figured that it's going to be at least $100 just to get anyone out to look at it - $25% the cost of the new one. She's gotten 10 years out of it--figured it was tim to get a newer one. Friglux, I had found the same one as you - looks like that one will work. Even though its noisy according to the reviews, it won't matter since its going in the basement.
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Post# 455133 , Reply# 5 8/7/2010 at 08:08 (5,004 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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 Dan, There are usually three possible problems for a non-draining direct-drive machine. 1. A stray sock or some such article of clothing is clogging the tub outlet. 2. The pump drive is worn or cracked where it mounts to the motor shaft ... possibly related to the aforementioned sock gotten into it. 3. The motor isn't running in reverse for drain (and spin), which could be: -- a. A bad lid switch or broken lid switch actuator. If the motor doesn't run at all during drain/spin periods, this could be the problem, which is easily checked by looking at the lid to see if the actuator is OK ... or bypassing the lid switch or checking it for continuity. -- b. A problem with the motor itself, ranging from something simple such as a wire come off to something major such as the motor gone bad. -- c. A problem with the timer. In any case, while labor costs can be high if a serviceman must be hired, the related parts are not expensive (unless a timer or motor is involved) and any kind of repair on this is not difficult for DIY. There's no way I'd trash a 10-year-old machine just because of non-drain unless there's some extenuating circumstance such as a severely rusted cabinet. | ||
| Post# 455134 , Reply# 6 8/7/2010 at 08:09 (5,004 days old) by jaxsunst () | ||
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I was in Lowe's yesterday. They have some inexpensive Roper (made by Whirlpool) machine that look nice. | ||
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Post# 455137 , Reply# 7 8/7/2010 at 08:26 (5,004 days old) by KenmoreGuy64 (Charlotte, NC) |
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Dan,
I am very familiar with what Lowe's offers right now. I too would suggest either the Roper RTW4440VQ, the Whirlpool WTW5200VQ. or the Whirlpool RTW5100VQ (it's $379 in Charlotte). Some of those machines are 3.5cu ft, some are 3.2, but believe it or not, the tubs are the same, as are the agitators. The Roper at $329, is a better machine than the WP at $379 (one more temp, one more level, and same cycles). The WP 5200 gives a softener dispenser and a couple more temps, and a second rinse. Believe it or not, you may still want to look outside Lowe's if you can. HomeDepot still has the clone Admiral washer to these for $279. That is hands down the best value in a new washer anywhere, bar none. Glenn has a point about fixing the old machine, but if you aren't going to try that, I'd go for either the Roper at Lowe's or the Admiral at H.D. Gordon | ||
| Post# 455174 , Reply# 8 8/7/2010 at 11:09 (5,004 days old) by davek () | ||
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I can hardly see how they build one and get it in a box for $279, much less bring it to you. | ||
| Post# 455212 , Reply# 9 8/7/2010 at 13:59 (5,003 days old) by danmantn (Tennessee) | ||
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Post# 455233 , Reply# 10 8/7/2010 at 15:26 (5,003 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Taking that info in that order of 1) husband is going to look at (meaning he hasn't yet), 2) it fills, 3) it agitates, 4) no spin or drain, and 5) lid switch works ... I'm wondering how they confirmed the lid switch works being that a non-working lid switch would be a reason for it not to spin or drain. :-) Knowing a model number would help in determining what kind of lid switch mechanism is involved ... but if it's the typical arrangement, it's not uncommon that the body of the lid switch cracks, which loosens it from the mounting screws and/or causes the switch to shift instead of activate when the lid plunger presses on it, resulting in the switch not working. A machine of that age likely will fill and agitate with a non-functioning lid switch. The lid switch comes into play only when the motor runs in reverse for drain and spin. Of course, the problem can still be one of the others that I mentioned above ... but wouldn't they feel silly for spending $400 to replace the machine when a $35 lid switch would do the trick? | ||
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Post# 455252 , Reply# 11 8/7/2010 at 17:35 (5,003 days old) by yogitunes (New Jersey) |
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Post# 455258 , Reply# 12 8/7/2010 at 18:38 (5,003 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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| Post# 455272 , Reply# 13 8/7/2010 at 20:14 (5,003 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada) | ||
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| Post# 455315 , Reply# 14 8/7/2010 at 23:04 (5,003 days old) by DanManTN (Tennessee) | ||
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We may be on to something...
I had her check a few things. The washer agitates on regular, kicks to low for a minute or two, then stops when ready to spin.
Not sure if it's a clue, but I had her listen for the classic clicking sound of the lid switch, she said she doesn't hear anything. I'll have her husband check that options first...seems I saw a YouTube video out there somewhere on how to get to the lid switch. Her model number is LSR844LQO, Type III. | ||
| Post# 455319 , Reply# 15 8/7/2010 at 23:45 (5,003 days old) by PeterH770 (Marietta, GA) | ||
Unplug the washer. Unscrew the two screws on the front bottom of the control panel (the screws may be hidden under the end caps which can be popped off). Flip the control panel back, disconnect the 2 wire harnesses, pop off the "springs" that secure the cabinet to the back, lift the cabinet off the base. Then you can replace the lid switch easily.
You can then pop the subtop off the outer tub and clean it. It is probably very yukky, especially if she uses fabric softener. You can also get to the pump easily underneath. | ||
| Post# 455325 , Reply# 16 8/8/2010 at 00:22 (5,003 days old) by strongenough78 (California) | ||
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| Post# 455340 , Reply# 17 8/8/2010 at 01:44 (5,003 days old) by alr2903 (TN) | ||
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Every once in a while the direct drives "walk" could it be as simple as it has kinked it's drain hose? alr2903 | ||
| Post# 455359 , Reply# 18 8/8/2010 at 08:27 (5,003 days old) by DanManTN (Tennessee) | ||
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Yep, it saddens me that she can't get a Speed Queen - especially after falling in love with mine. Speed Queen really produces 1 washer and the only thing that changes are motor speed, extra rinse, sound insulation, cycles, and a fabric switch. The range difference on all 4 models is only $100 with my local dealer. The BOL 311 is $529 whereas the TOL 542 (mine) is $599. For that difference, I don't why they just don't make the TOL and call it a day as the mechanics of the washer is the same in all.
My sister is on an extremely tight budget and can't really afford a washer right now, but she does have the ability to place the washer on her account at Lowe's. I hate that she has to do this, but it is what it is. The SQ dealer surely has some kind of financing, but she doesn't want to open additional credit lines (which is a good thing). I've sent her down the lid switch path--hopefully that will bear fruit. | ||
| Post# 455380 , Reply# 19 8/8/2010 at 12:24 (5,002 days old) by DanManTN (Tennessee) | ||
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FOUR HUNDRED DOLLARS WORTH OF THANKS!!!! | ||
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Post# 455491 , Reply# 20 8/8/2010 at 22:54 (5,002 days old) by appnut (TX) |
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