Thread Number: 30427
Cracking open an early GE AW6 Drive Unit/Transmission
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Post# 460680   9/1/2010 at 23:02 (4,982 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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So after trying out the new washer I found last weekend I need to learn how to service the aw6 transmission. I have absolutely no service information on this tranmission, just a parts list and one chart that I found recently. GE produced this unit from 1947 thru 1950. What was most unusual about it besides the 1140rpm spin was it is like a refrigerator compressor as it is sealed in oil.

Here is the parts list. I also have this chart and it shows the flow of oil (left side is spin, right side is activation). By the way "activation" was the way GE referred to agitation. The activator was how they said agitator...





Post# 460681 , Reply# 1   9/1/2010 at 23:05 (4,982 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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Here are the two spare units, the one on the left was from 1950, its motor is dead (its grounded) so this will be the one I'm going to take apart as a learning experience. The one on the right is an earlier unit.

Post# 460682 , Reply# 2   9/1/2010 at 23:07 (4,982 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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Here is the top of the transmission. To remove the drive block I heat it with a torch and knock it off with a screwdriver and hammer.

Post# 460683 , Reply# 3   9/1/2010 at 23:08 (4,982 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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I want to save this activator shaft seal as its good shape, so I gently pull it off with a gear puller.

Post# 460684 , Reply# 4   9/1/2010 at 23:10 (4,982 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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Now is the part I dread. Getting the basket hub off of any GE transmission is a total pain in the butt. First I have to drill out those screws and pry off the bar that holds it on.

Post# 460685 , Reply# 5   9/1/2010 at 23:13 (4,982 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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This is a good sign, this is first time I've ever been able to get a basket hub off without having to cut it off. I heated up with my torch and used a huge pipe wrench to get it turning, I locked the spin shaft in my vice as I was turning the hub. After about an hour I was able to work it up and off of the spin shaft. This is a good part to have because it has only two bolt holes, not the standard three bolt hubs that GE started making from 1951 and went thru 1995.

Post# 460686 , Reply# 6   9/1/2010 at 23:14 (4,982 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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Now I have no idea how to drain the oil, but I have to start somewhere so I'm going to remove this cup on the bottom first...

Post# 460688 , Reply# 7   9/1/2010 at 23:16 (4,982 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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Sure enough 40 ounces of nasty old oil came pouring out, I saved it and will take it to the city's hazardous waste recycling.

Post# 460689 , Reply# 8   9/1/2010 at 23:18 (4,982 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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I put the cup back on temporarily and then I removed the bolts holding the housing together. Time to pry off the motor housing. Not one of us washer collectors have ever seen the inside of this transmission before.

Here goes....


Post# 460690 , Reply# 9   9/1/2010 at 23:19 (4,982 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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WOW, look at that!

Post# 460691 , Reply# 10   9/1/2010 at 23:21 (4,982 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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Here is a look down into the motor housing.

Post# 460692 , Reply# 11   9/1/2010 at 23:22 (4,982 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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I could not believe that the bellows is made out of soft copper! All these years I pictured it to be rubber!! I have absolutely no idea what the Control Spring and Bracket do. Their function is not obvious to me.

Post# 460693 , Reply# 12   9/1/2010 at 23:25 (4,982 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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Bellows in action...

Post# 460694 , Reply# 13   9/1/2010 at 23:26 (4,982 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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Clutch and Drum...

Post# 460695 , Reply# 14   9/1/2010 at 23:27 (4,982 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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Brake assembly

Post# 460696 , Reply# 15   9/1/2010 at 23:29 (4,982 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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Now I pried off the upper housing off and the activation mechanism is in full view...

Post# 460697 , Reply# 16   9/1/2010 at 23:30 (4,982 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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Gears, sector bar. During activation oil is diverted away from the bellows and up into the upper half of the unit. It is sprayed out all over the upper half of the mechanism.

Post# 460698 , Reply# 17   9/1/2010 at 23:32 (4,982 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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Another look at the bellows. While I can force it to expand with my hands, its not done easily and takes quite a bit of strength.

Post# 460699 , Reply# 18   9/1/2010 at 23:34 (4,982 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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Last a close up of the Bellows and rotor. What I don't understand is how that little oil pump can force oil up through the rotor and out through that tiny little hole and force that stiff metal bellows to expand. I can't imagine that the oil pump would be able to create that much force but it must, it works.

Post# 460700 , Reply# 19   9/1/2010 at 23:37 (4,982 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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Now that I've taken the learning unit apart I have a bit more confidence to tackle the one in the '48 washer. It seems to sound like like the bellows is sort of stuck half way between the wash and spin position. Not sure exactly how I'm going to diagnoise all that once the unit is opened, but what choice do we have than to experiment. Wish me luck! More to come.

Post# 460701 , Reply# 20   9/1/2010 at 23:45 (4,982 days old) by A440 ()        

Robert this is incredible!
Thanks for sharing this.
Excuse my inexperience but is the entire motor submerged in oil? Kind of like a refrigerant compressor?
I find this all so amazing!
The copper bellows blew my mind.
The gears look factory new!
I can see why GE did not make much on profit on this washer.
Will be interesting to hear what you think was the cause of the failure.
Thanks so much for posting these pictures.
This machine is a work of art!
Brent


Post# 460702 , Reply# 21   9/1/2010 at 23:47 (4,982 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)        

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That is awesome, I would never have guessed those bellows were copper! Can you tell how far they have to move up to engage the spin clutch & drum?

Very cool indeed!


Post# 460703 , Reply# 22   9/1/2010 at 23:48 (4,982 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)        
Been sitting here with my mouth wide open

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could not imagine what the oil pump and tiny impeller would do.

And what a bellows would doing be here. Then came the explanations which are so easy to follow.

What an amazing mechanism: the way the oil shifts from one chamber to the the other; how the bellows lifts the cup up to spin, and the brake holds the rotor down to engage the activator gears. This is fabulous stuff Robert. Are you starting to think, "Cooler than a Frigidaire?" Pic # 10 is a killer. Bright Orange, still glowing after 60 years.

Loved the "exam gloves." ;-> Good night Wizard of Aworg.

Mike


Post# 460706 , Reply# 23   9/2/2010 at 00:05 (4,982 days old) by rogera608s (Tucson,AZ)        

Robert,
This is absolutely fascinating to see the inside of the drive mechanism. Copper bellows.........never expected that. Thank you for all the pictures.
Roger


Post# 460707 , Reply# 24   9/2/2010 at 00:11 (4,982 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        

Wow,that is one cool mechanism!good luck getting that running
robert!


Post# 460709 , Reply# 25   9/2/2010 at 00:36 (4,982 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
Totally speechless.

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How much machining did it take to build one of these?
Dave


Post# 460713 , Reply# 26   9/2/2010 at 01:11 (4,982 days old) by eddy1210 (Burnaby BC Canada)        
A question about the bellows

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This is just fascinating. When the oil is filling the bellows, is it compressing air that's inside the bellows? Or is there very little air inside it and oil fills up the entire bellows?

Post# 460728 , Reply# 27   9/2/2010 at 03:59 (4,982 days old) by alr2903 (TN)        

Robert, Simply fascinating, you could rule the world. You have great patience, to take the time to photograph and label, so we could follow along. One question with the bellows being copper, could this bellows possibly energize at some point, to either push or pull, in addition to the oil pressure exerting force? Thank you Robert. alr2903

Post# 460743 , Reply# 28   9/2/2010 at 06:04 (4,982 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        
And this is what they mean when they say "Built to last&

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Absolutely fascinating! Thank you for doing this photo essay. How did you learn how to work on washer transmissions? Was it trial and error, did you work with/for someone or did you get this from a family member? Sorry, but I'm curious.

Post# 460747 , Reply# 29   9/2/2010 at 06:24 (4,982 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        
The Amazing Robert Seger

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How facinating.

Look at that engineering. Who would have thought. Copper Bellows !!! Wow.

Thanks Robert. Always an education. Eddie


Post# 460748 , Reply# 30   9/2/2010 at 06:26 (4,982 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        
Absolutely amazing...

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Robert, thank you for taking the time to photograph and document the 'surgery'! This is a unique insight into the GE design that I am sure very few people have ever seen, let alone worked with.
Can't wait to see more!!


Post# 460755 , Reply# 31   9/2/2010 at 07:10 (4,982 days old) by polkanut (Wausau, WI )        

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I have a suspicion that the sorcerer's apprentice (Fred) was assisting with photos etc. Great photos and step by step explanations for future reference.

Post# 460758 , Reply# 32   9/2/2010 at 07:15 (4,982 days old) by joelippard (Hickory)        
Wow

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Now that's exciting and incredible. I feel like I've been a part of history. I can't wait to get more time and study those pictures better. A copper bellows!!!

Post# 460761 , Reply# 33   9/2/2010 at 07:22 (4,982 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
GE UNITZED TRANSMISSION

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Robert thanks for sharing the inner workings of this incredible transmission I had always wanted to see the insides of this trans ever since I found your original machine around 1972 but I never had a reason to open it up. The trans in your 1948 was a GE factory rebuilt unit around the mid 1960s. Overall the trans is simpler and more rugged than I would have imagined, I would love to know why GE abandoned this design so early after putting so much work into it. I guess thier were many reasons and just having to have a separate drain pump motor probably made the machine very costly to build, motors used to be one of the most costly parts of an appliance to build other than that it doesn't look like it would cost that much more than what came after this. This design could have been very durable as it wouldn't have been very prone to oil leaks like many other washers of the time and with the motor windings protected from moisture and dirt and cooled by oil it should have been very durable.

Post# 460775 , Reply# 34   9/2/2010 at 08:53 (4,982 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

Thanks, Robert! Now that you have that mechanism apart, would it be feasible to have the motor windings repaired or are you planning on using it as a parts donor?

Those magic hydraulics call to mind old Citroens where everything was hydraulic. The principle also makes me think of the water powered clutch in the Apex and (possibly) Savage washers.


Post# 460776 , Reply# 35   9/2/2010 at 08:54 (4,982 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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is the entire motor submerged in oil? Kind of like a refrigerant compressor?
Well its not submerged, the oil level comes right just slightly lower than the bottom of the rotor. I would think if it was completely submerged it would cause too much of drag.

Can you tell how far they have to move up to engage the spin clutch & drum?
It appears to be between 1/4 and 1/3 inch that the bellows rises and falls, probably closer to 1/4".

When the oil is filling the bellows, is it compressing air that's inside the bellows? Or is there very little air inside it and oil fills up the entire bellows?
No air in the Eddy, because it there is a little relief hole at the top of the bellows to bleed out excess oil pressure. I just can't imagine how that much pressure could be built up, but obviously it is.

One question with the bellows being copper, could this bellows possibly energize at some point
I don't believe so, I would think that would transmit electricity all over the cabinet then as well.

How did you learn how to work on washer transmissions? Was it trial and error
Yup all trial and error as well as reading repair manuals for years. Unfortunately I don't have anything service related for this transmission. :-(

Overall the trans is simpler and more rugged than I would have imagined,
Me too John! I'm hoping this simpleness will help in fixing the other transmission. It might just be sort of stuck from sitting for all those years and needs to be taken apart, cleaned and the bellows flexed manually a bit. Here's hoping!

would it be feasible to have the motor windings repaired or are you planning on using it as a parts donor?
This one will be a parts donor Tom as the other motors all seem to work.



Post# 460780 , Reply# 36   9/2/2010 at 09:13 (4,982 days old) by austinado16 ()        
Now that is some cool engineering!

It's sort of like an automatic transmission in a car...using oil pressure to change gears/modes. Very cool, and great job getting it apart without destroying it.

I've seen copper bellows used in other "pump" type assemblies as they last a long time and do a good job of sealing.

2 suggestions:
-PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench will help stuff like this come apart. Start spraying/soaking the item asap in order to get good penetration by either product.

-Blue nitrile mechanics gloves from places like NAPA auto parts. You'll like them a whole lot better than the exam gloves, and they'll last longer.


Post# 460793 , Reply# 37   9/2/2010 at 10:36 (4,982 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)        
Now we'll know, Robert,

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when we plan the Unimatic factory of the future, to use soft copper bellows instead of rubber for the water and the oil; they won't tear. Though the machines are rare, I wonder if there is any data about the GE bellows ever tearing?

Post# 460822 , Reply# 38   9/2/2010 at 12:49 (4,982 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c )        
If That Does Not !!!!

Convince everyone just how much better things were built in the old days, I don't know what would,I bet to build that today would be 5000.00!

Post# 460828 , Reply# 39   9/2/2010 at 13:02 (4,982 days old) by austinado16 ()        
"I don't know what would,I bet to build that today w

No, it'd cost about $20US, because it would be done at a factory in China or Thailand by someone living in a cardboard box, making $1US for a 12hr work day.

Of course the entire thing would be made out of pot-metal and be designed to last 3 days over the warranty period.


Post# 460867 , Reply# 40   9/2/2010 at 15:59 (4,982 days old) by pdub (Portland, Oregon)        

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Incredible Robert! Thanks for sharing all the details and pictures.

Patrick


Post# 460925 , Reply# 41   9/2/2010 at 20:44 (4,982 days old) by best-cleaning ()        

Incredible transmission! Thank you very much for sharing with us.

Post# 460954 , Reply# 42   9/2/2010 at 22:33 (4,981 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

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This is way cool Robert. I can't get over the copper bellows. I imagine the 'oil' is some sort of a cross between an air compressor oil and a hydraulic fluid, due to the fact that the little pump is creating such a large build up of pressure on the bellows to force it up against the spin clutch. Also, I love the fact that the rotor and stator of the motor are immersed in the mechanism; subject to many, many coats of oil during a complete operation. No wonder there is no rust anywhere....

Anyone out there have a GE product manual that describes the transmission fluid for one of these? An incredible mechanism - John said it best, UNITIZED!

(Reminds me of a 1972 GM/Pontiac ignition system, terminology wise anyway *grin*)


CLICK HERE TO GO TO swestoyz's LINK


Post# 460956 , Reply# 43   9/2/2010 at 22:44 (4,981 days old) by Supersuds (Knoxville, Tenn.)        
Copper bellows

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I used to see a lot of copper bellows made here in Knoxville by the Fulton Sylphon Company -- I had several relatives who worked there. Weston Fulton supposedly invented the copper bellows in 1903 as a weather instrument.

I recall my uncle, who worked there from 1934 to 1977, saying they used to make a lot of copper bellows but they got to be quite expensive. They were used in automotive thermostats among other things.

Here's a link to Fulton's early patents.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO Supersuds's LINK


Post# 461005 , Reply# 44   9/3/2010 at 00:16 (4,981 days old) by tolivac (greenville nc)        

I have seen oil filled motors in submersible sewage pumps-worked on these at a tool repair place-If the motor was burned up from a motor fault-that oil was REALLY had a nasty smell.Gave up there and informed the customer.The oil does not put a drag on the motor.Some of these pumps had 3450RPM motors-the rotor did not have rotor fins like the rotor from that washer transmission.Never seen that in a washer-learned something new.On the submersible pumps--you NEVER ran it unless the pump was under water-we tested them in a 5Gal "homer bucket"If it emptied the bucket within a few seconds-the pump was OK.These had motors about the same HP and size as a washer motor.Although some of these submisable pumps could have motors having 100Hp(for deep well water and oil pumps)and run from 3Ph power.
The copper bellows looks like those in Varible vacuum capacitors.Its amazing how flexible and durable these are-and in the capacitor-have to hold a vacuum.Some vacuum capacitors handling high voltages and RF currents-like what we use-have water cooled bellows and backplate assemblies.The heat has to be removed from the cap to prevent seal failures.If the seals fail the caps fails in a SPECTACULAR manner!Glowing,arcing loud noises and wet transmitter cabinets are the end results.
Love the pictures of the "blow by blow" transmission dismantling and rebuilding.That device is quite amazing for 1948 technology-GE outdid themselves-now tha assembly is PLASTIC!


Post# 461062 , Reply# 45   9/3/2010 at 09:55 (4,981 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Seeing the forbidden transmission is way Kewl and I have a s

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From my car rebuilding years:

It appears that you can change the oil in these! Ya know Robert, I had a partially seized engine oil pump in the BMW and instead of dissassembling the motor, we filled it up with MARVEL MYSTERY OIL instead and drove it 50 miles, then drained it and charged it with regular oil. You should have seen the gunk that came out and the motor ran another 100,000 miles beautifully.

I would suggest you try the same with your transmission first and see if that improves its performance before dissassembly.

I'll bet that motor shares a lot in common with the motor inside my Monitor Top frig! I am surprised the motor isn't exposed to more oil, how do the bearings in the motor stay lubricated, are there weep holes into the motor bearings as well?




Post# 461067 , Reply# 46   9/3/2010 at 10:34 (4,981 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
GE UNITZED TRANSMISSION

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Hi Jon , Robert This unit has a pressured lubrication system to keep lubricated, Robert the one thing I didn't see in the pictures was what causes the oil to start flowing to the bellow to shift from agitate to spin, I expected to see a solenoid valve in the pressurized oil system. I do think that Jons idea of flushing and changing the oil would be worth a try especially on the balky 1948 machine you got from me. Its amazing what some of the automatic transmission products can do to fix problems with out actually dismantling and rebuilding, it is almost like going to the doctor.

Post# 461084 , Reply# 47   9/3/2010 at 12:42 (4,981 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)        
"What causes the oil to start flowing to the bellows?

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HI John, Robert mentions in Reply # 11 that he has no idea what the control spring and bracket are for, at the base of the copper bellows, highlighted in yellow in the photo.

Is it possible that they somehow initiate or facilitate the oil flow?


Post# 461120 , Reply# 48   9/3/2010 at 16:30 (4,981 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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Robert the one thing I didn't see in the pictures was what causes the oil to start flowing to the bellow to shift from agitate to spin

That I know, its the spin valve in the picture of oil coming out. The spin valve is energized which is similar to a water valve and the plunger rises to close the hole to the tube and open the hole to the rotor. The new washer transmission sounds like something is scraping so it shouldn't be run anymore until it opened and make sure nothing is broken off inside.



Post# 461139 , Reply# 49   9/3/2010 at 18:57 (4,981 days old) by best-cleaning ()        

So, the motor runs only one direction for agitation and spin!?

I'm checking the drive shaft and rotor, one thing I still don't understand. How does the gears stops the agitation when spin starts?


Post# 461148 , Reply# 50   9/3/2010 at 20:06 (4,981 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Scraping sound

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I have had that in 1956-59 trannys and when opened found that the brake band had seperated from the shoe and was wrapped around the mechanism.

Good luck with the surgery!



Post# 461255 , Reply# 51   9/4/2010 at 09:33 (4,980 days old) by lesto (Atlanta)        

thanks for the etailed photos and explanations, Robert. I never would have guessed that bellows was made of copper. I hope the problem with the new 48 is something easy to fix once you crack her open.

With your collection of GE's growing like they are I may start calling you "Activator boy". GRIN.

Les


Post# 461354 , Reply# 52   9/4/2010 at 20:38 (4,980 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Ohhh I Love that

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"ActivatorBoy"!!!


I'm gonna run with that one this year!


Post# 461829 , Reply# 53   9/7/2010 at 02:08 (4,977 days old) by aldspinboy (Philadelphia, Pa)        

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Iv'e got emotional seeing you in pic seven maybe i see something in myself that want ever be, what a talent, well for sure it feels really good to see a person so passionate about the washers we all love and that there is a talent that we can all learn from.
I have no fear anymore about liking washers ever again.
Amazing machine Robert.
My colleges will never laugh again at this site.

Darren k.


Post# 461877 , Reply# 54   9/7/2010 at 11:13 (4,977 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Well???/

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We're waiting for more pictures.tap tap tap...

Post# 462276 , Reply# 55   9/8/2010 at 22:03 (4,976 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        
Good News

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Now that I understand what goes on inside an AW6 Drive Unit, I took out the mechanism in the new machine that would not spin. I took it apart and sure enough I found that one of the two post that the control spring bracket attaches to has sheered off! I took the entire drive unit completely apart, soaked all the parts in Acetone and installed the bellows from the other mechanism and filled it with 40 ounces of Air Compressor oil.

I was a bit worried that the original oil that GE used was very specific and our standard air compressor replacement oil might not work. To my relief the Drive Unit works perfectly!!! It sounds so nice and quiet and rev's up to 1140 rpm like a champ.

You can see the broken post below, this let oil out of the bellows and prevented it from rising under oil pressure. Next it time to work on replacing the pumps.


Post# 462285 , Reply# 56   9/8/2010 at 22:17 (4,976 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Brilliant piece of

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detective work Robert! I wonder how that broke!

I bet if that is all copper it could be brazed back together like new

Those pins contact the spin cluch cup, which turns that big tub of water.

What does that control spring and bracket do?? It looks odd!


Post# 462286 , Reply# 57   9/8/2010 at 22:21 (4,976 days old) by A440 ()        

Great news Robert!
When are you going to release your tech book?
Thanks for the picture!
Brent


Post# 462300 , Reply# 58   9/8/2010 at 23:13 (4,975 days old) by austinado16 ()        
Nice work!!

It looks like that pin was soldered in place.

Very cool that you got the transmission working again.


Post# 462304 , Reply# 59   9/8/2010 at 23:22 (4,975 days old) by lebron (Minnesota)        

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Congragulations Robert! I can not wait to see this incredible machine!!!

Post# 462386 , Reply# 60   9/9/2010 at 11:20 (4,975 days old) by macboy91si (Frankfort, KY)        
Different Years

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Robert, are the internals of these early GE's all interchangeable or are there differences in them? This is an absolutely fascinating transmission, copper bellows and all. It also seems strangely simple and very "car-like" in may respects. Although not REALLY simple, I was expecting a much more complicated unit for whatever reason. It seems like it can be bench serviced pretty easily though, which is good in this case. Is it hard to get the transmission out of the washer? Since it's a sealed oil bath unit I can see why field service was not recommended. I also agree with a statement that was made by someone else about the one that you opened up showing very little wear.

Thanks for posting this little marvel.

-Tim


Post# 462415 , Reply# 61   9/9/2010 at 13:25 (4,975 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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What does that control spring and bracket do?? It looks odd!
I don't know Jon, I can't figure that out either. I'm sure it serves some good purpose.

Robert, are the internals of these early GE's all interchangeable or are there differences in them?
Close but not all Tim, I noticed there was a difference in the design of the clutch drum and related springs in the older 1948 tranny as opposed to the 1950. Thankfully the copper bellows and related parts were exactly the same so it was an easy replacement.


Post# 462430 , Reply# 62   9/9/2010 at 15:37 (4,975 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
I have an idea

jetcone's profile picture
that spring system looks to me like a centrifugal clutch, it may be that at slow spin the oil pressure is enough to engage spin but as speed picks up,the oil maybe be slung against the inner walls of the copper bellows thus reducing pressure so at that speed the centrifugal spring may take over to keep engagement between the motor and tranny.


You know I just realized, that tranny looks identical to the belt driven trannys of the early 50's, there is just a different bottom plate with a pulley instead of a motor attached. I bet those tranny gears fit all the later machines.


Post# 462624 , Reply# 63   9/10/2010 at 17:55 (4,974 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
After looking at your parts manual

jetcone's profile picture
that definitley looks like a centrifugal locking mechanism of some kind. It probably locks out the clutch at high speed for efficiency so that the shaft becomes one solid spin shaft connected to the motor.



Post# 462626 , Reply# 64   9/10/2010 at 17:59 (4,974 days old) by Jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
I love the way the oil

jetcone's profile picture
is spurting out the nub in the transmission so "revealing"!


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