Thread Number: 31136
DE-701 Maintenance questions |
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Post# 470083   10/18/2010 at 12:04 (4,910 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
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One of the many parts that I have managed to find recently was an original door seal for my Maytag DE-701 dryer that I picked up this summer. I am planning on getting that installed soon, but I have no prior experience working on Maytag dryers, so I am turning to our Maytag experts here...
For a DE-701, would I have to remove the entire dryer cabinet to replace the door seal? If so, is the removal procedure similar to a DE-306 (disconnect cabling to the motor, remove the cabinet screws, and then tilt and lift off the cabinet)? If I do have to take the cabinet apart, where would be critical areas to oil (blower, drum drive, etc)? I figure if I am going to use this dryer, it would probably be wise to oil it... All input and advice is appreciated (and needed, believe me!!). |
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Post# 470316 , Reply# 1   10/19/2010 at 13:22 (4,909 days old) by polkanut (Wausau, WI )   |   | |
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Post# 470323 , Reply# 2   10/19/2010 at 14:06 (4,909 days old) by revvinkevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land)   |   | |
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Post# 470328 , Reply# 3   10/19/2010 at 14:29 (4,909 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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For a DE-701, would I have to remove the entire dryer cabinet to replace the door seal?
Yeah, gotta remove the entire cabinet. If so, is the removal procedure similar to a DE-306 Yeah, just more wires to label and disconnect. A couple of critical procedures when dealing with electronic control models: Remove the carbon brush holder, carbon brush, and spring BEFORE removing the slip ring and rear felt seal. The spring and carbon brush are incredibly small and hard to find if either one of them shoot off into space. When removing the rear felt seal and slip ring, don't loosen the tension on the slip ring to remove it, just gently work it off the seal. Same goes for installation. where would be critical areas to oil Turbine oil: Reduction pulley (lower right hand pulley), blower, and drum bushings. If the original round style motor is still present, it can be disassembled, cleaned, and oiled. Grease: Grease the sliding shaft for idler pulley. You'll know what I'm talking about once get into the machine. It should already have some nasty old grease present. If you're getting the far into the machine, replace the front felt seal. Replacing the rear felt seal might be a good idea on a machine this old, if you can still find it. They're becoming rather hard to come by now. Work in an area where you can keep things organized. There are several fiber washers in front of/behind pulleys and what not. It sometimes gets confusing where they go when putting the machine back together for the first time. Having another HOH present (like your 306) for reference can really help out. There are also a few o-rings present that keep dust/dirt out of shafts and seals. They'll be rock hard, but will still do their job just fine. You may want to tear into the 306 first since it's a bit simpler. After that, you'll be a pro and the process will make much more sense on the 701, even though there are a few more steps to the process. |
Post# 470372 , Reply# 4   10/19/2010 at 19:19 (4,909 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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Post# 470382 , Reply# 5   10/19/2010 at 20:13 (4,909 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)   |   | |
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Post# 470396 , Reply# 6   10/19/2010 at 21:05 (4,909 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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Post# 470411 , Reply# 7   10/19/2010 at 21:41 (4,909 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Here's the entire DE806 Maytag dryer breakdown and parts that I scanned a while back. I really need to re-scan them, along with the 806 washer breakdown w/parts and place them both on one post that can easily be pulled up on the Searchalator. More than 95% of the breakdown and parts are the same as the DE701. The only real differences are just thermostats and the electronic control unit.
CLICK HERE TO GO TO qsd-dan's LINK |
Post# 470417 , Reply# 8   10/19/2010 at 21:52 (4,909 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 470421 , Reply# 9   10/19/2010 at 22:00 (4,909 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Looking at the pics on RCD's 906 thread, a picture triggered another memory. The hook on the tension spring that connects to the reduction pulley should be facing to the right. Yes, it makes a big difference on the angle of tension. When faced the other way, the belts tends to slip quite a bit, sometime to the point that the drum refuses to come up to speed. Not to pick on RCD, but his is facing the wrong direction in this pic. Not his fault, it was previously installed incorrectly and he just installed it back the same way he initially found it.
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Post# 470489 , Reply# 10   10/20/2010 at 09:12 (4,908 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 470514 , Reply# 11   10/20/2010 at 11:44 (4,908 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
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Archives... Why do I never think about checking the archives?
Thanks, Dan, I had seen the thread and it will be a great help! John, thanks for the tip about the door seal replacement - I think I will still tear it apart to give it a greasing, though. It looks like the 'tags are poised to become the daily drivers this winter... |
Post# 470541 , Reply# 12   10/20/2010 at 15:02 (4,908 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)   |   | |
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