Thread Number: 31709
how do you remove kitchenaid superba KDS-37SST
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Post# 478303   11/29/2010 at 11:45 (4,896 days old) by lolly ()        

We bought a house and we are re-doing the kitchen. the dishwasher is a Kitchenaid Superba by Hobart model number KDS-37 SST -which is a stainless steel sink combination. Altho the dishwasher works fairly well, it is difficult to load and would prefer to replace it. we do however, want to keep the stainless steel combo part. the installer for the new dishwasher says they can't remove the old dishwasher -but my mother-in-law had same set-up and was able to put in a new dishwasher. Does anyone know how to remove the dishwasher only?

Also, is the old dishwasher worth anything? where can I go to find out?






Post# 478379 , Reply# 1   11/29/2010 at 18:29 (4,895 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
KDS 37

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I just worked on a KDS 37A last week before the holidays, the machine could probably be saved if you are so inclined. That said it can be removed and replaced with any other machine out there, the trick is finding an experienced installer who has some good mechanical skills under his or her belt. All to many of the installers out there do not want to take the time to do this, also you will probably end up paying more than the basic installation price to get this done.

Post# 478399 , Reply# 2   11/29/2010 at 19:29 (4,895 days old) by dishwashercrazy (West Peoria, IL)        

dishwashercrazy's profile picture

Congratulations on finding a very fine KitchenAid KDS-37, which dates to between 1971 and 1974. The "S" stands for Superba, or top of the line.

I just bought a KitchenAid KDC-37, Stainless Steel Sink/Dishwasher combination unit, virtually the exact same as your unit. The "C" stands for Custom, and was the bottom of the line. I picked it up in Buffalo, NY last Saturday November 20th, and brought it home. Yesterday, Todd (varicyclevoice) and I were just studying my machine to answer the exact same question you are asking.

The dishwasher is secured to the cabinet with screws from the back, front, and through the side from underneath the sink. So if doing this properly, one would need to disconnect the unit from the water supply, drain and electrical service. Then pull the unit out of it's current position.

I have seen firsthand on several occasions, this kind of separation having been performed on other Sink/Dishwasher combination machines (these machines are usually called Electric Sinks). The most common separation being performed on the GE units from the 1950's. Those dishwashers were never meant to be removed, so the cabinets were cut with a hacksaw to remove the dishwasher.

Fortunately, this separation process is much more practical, and less painful on the KitchenAid Electric Sinks, but nevertheless, it still is / will be a time consuming project, if you wish the cabinet and stainless steel drainboard to remain in good condition. Once the old dishwasher is removed, a new/modern dishwasher should just slide in underneath the stainless steel drainboard, and reconnected to water and drain.

You asked if the dishwasher has any value. Personally, to me, the dishwasher itself, having been removed, would be much less of interest to me. I say this mainly because the model/serial number plate inside the door of the dishwasher, on the left, will read KDS-37, meaning it was originally part of an Electric Sink. Since I collect Electric Sinks, I would much rather have the entire unit. The KDS-37 unit is an Electric Sink, which happens to have a stand-alone KDS-17 dishwasher installed inside the outer cabinet. Those stand-alone dishwashers can still be found, and not at all yet considered rare. Therefore, in my opinion, the KDS-37 dishwasher itself may not be that desirable, EXCEPT, however, for parts.

In closing, these dishwashers from this era were very good machines. And I certainly would encourage you to get to know it some more, and continue to use it for a while longer before making the decision to swap it out for something more modern.

Hopefully, we will get some additional opinions from other members regarding how you might want to proceed.

Good luck. Mike


Post# 478419 , Reply# 3   11/29/2010 at 22:42 (4,895 days old) by neptunebob (Pittsburgh, PA)        
Mike, about last week...

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You think you will have a chance to get your pictures of your machines and me on this web site? Also, I have a picture I wanted to show you. Can you email me with your mailing address?

Post# 478563 , Reply# 4   11/30/2010 at 18:20 (4,894 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

A 17 KA difficult to load?! I assume some shtick dreck GE with a chopped up lower rack is easier to load?

Post# 478565 , Reply# 5   11/30/2010 at 18:34 (4,894 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture
Did the 17's have an upper wash arm yet or did that start with the 18's?

KA machines are in my opinion the easiest to load of all vintage dishwashers. Only if they are old enough to lack the upper wash arm does any care need to be used in loading the lower rack. Otherwise, nothing could be easier.


Post# 478567 , Reply# 6   11/30/2010 at 18:53 (4,894 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

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17's still had the lower hydrosweep arm only. 18's were the first models to include 2 arms, plus a mini "constant rinse" arm up top.....a feature that never should have disappeared.

17's are great machines, you just have to pay attention on loading the bottom rack so the upper rack gets sufficient action. With 18+ machines, a person can mindlessly cram (keeping the constant rinse arm in mind for tall items) and get great results every time.


Post# 478572 , Reply# 7   11/30/2010 at 19:43 (4,894 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
KDS17

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The 16 and 17s also have the constant rinse and on these models it packs a lot more punch than on the 18s. It used the full force of the drain pump to supply just the constant rinse on the 16 &17.

Post# 478714 , Reply# 8   12/1/2010 at 14:05 (4,894 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Close, but no cigar!

Combo, the constant rinse on the 16/17 units as well as the 18's were not supplied by the drain pump impeller. The were suppplied bu the main wash pump with water diverted down thru the wash pump and up thru the water tube running to the top of the machine. The backpressure from the lower arm sent the water to the top sprayer.
In the 18 and later series, that tube was enlarged and supplied enough water to power the wash arm under the top rack. Nowadays, you can see that in evidence in almost every machine out there except that the tube runs inside the machine tank and not outside.

The D/M dishwashers did use the drain impeller to power their upper spray arm(s)which was a cool idea since those pumps reversed and then it would drain and not send any water up to the arms.
The downside with that design was the lack of water filtration, but given how much water they used and the number of rinses, there was probably little soil left to deposit on the dishware atr the end of the cycle.


Post# 478771 , Reply# 9   12/1/2010 at 19:35 (4,893 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
CONSTANT RINSE ARM

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Stevet you are absolutely right about the main wash impeller supplying the water for the CR on the 16-17s. However the CR is still far more powerful on the 16-17 than the 18s, I don't know if it really makes much difference however. I do still want to plumb in a booster pump in the water supply line to the upper rack feed line on my KDSS-20. Because other than having to clean the nasty filter its the only other problem I have with the KDSS-20 is a lack of really good cleaning the insides of some glasses in the top rack compared to my 1987 WP DU8000XR-1. When I get around to doing this I will post results.

Post# 722206 , Reply# 10   12/20/2013 at 13:29 (3,779 days old) by tyrabfs ()        
Replacing machine from KDS-37A - Worth it to sell for parts?

Sadly, I have to replace the machine portion of my electric sink. The part that broke is unattainable, so I've been told. The tub is still in great condition and maybe some other parts as well. Is it worth it to list it on Craigslist or elsewhere? Is there indeed a demand for parts or should I have the installers for the new one just cart it away? Really hate to see it get junked if someone has a use for it.
"dishwashercrazy" Mike, or other fan of the model, please advise ASAP. Installers coming tomorrow and I wish I'd consulted this site before arranging delivery/install w/removal.

Thanks,

Tyra




Post# 722250 , Reply# 11   12/20/2013 at 20:17 (3,778 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture
What condition are the racks in? Wash arm support--does the wash arm turn fairly easily or not?

Post# 722347 , Reply# 12   12/21/2013 at 12:13 (3,778 days old) by tyrabfs ()        

Everything looks in great condition; yes, the wash arm turns easily. The part the makes the arm go up and down is what is broken; used to sound like a bowling ball was in there during the cycle. forgive me for not remembering the proper term for the part; the machine has been out of commition since the Spring and i can;t remember what my appliance guy specifically said.
But yes, everything else is in great condition which is why I'm even considering saving it to pass on.


Post# 722505 , Reply# 13   12/22/2013 at 06:03 (3,777 days old) by chachp (North Little Rock, AR)        
Wash Arm Support?

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There are three on eBay right now. The part number is 4161073. Hard to say if that's the problem or not but the parts are between $30 and $40 on eBay and it's a relatively easy switch if that's all it is. All three of them are listed as New.

I understand why repairmen are so eager to replace vs. repair anymore but it is too bad that a nice machine like that has to go over a pretty easy fix. If I can do it anyone can.



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