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Thread Number: 31780
stuck agitator puller- made cheap! |
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| Post# 479378 12/4/2010 at 15:27 (4,884 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati) | ||
i've had very good luck making pullers out of 2x4's and bolts. i did this to pull a stuck inner tub out of my 65 custom imperial rollermatic, i made one to pull the impeller off my g.e. mobile maid and today i rigged this one up.
thought i would demonstrate in case anyone else can use the idea when working on their appliances. this one is a stuck agitator on my speed queen solid tub i picked up last week in indianapolis. 
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| Post# 479382 , Reply# 1 12/4/2010 at 15:35 (4,884 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati) | ||
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the parts consist of
about 2 ft of 2x4
4 ft of chain cut in half one 5/16 center bolt and a couple nuts and fender washers 2 eye bolts and nuts about 6 " long. 2 little L braces 4 s hooks to attache chain to eye bolts and L braces the 5/16 center bolt screws down into the center post of the agitator i found out by taking off the top cap and measuring the bolt on it. the L braces i bent with a hammer a bit so when they are inserted under the agitator and pulled tight by the chain and eye bolts they grip it instead of popping out. 
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| Post# 479383 , Reply# 2 12/4/2010 at 15:38 (4,884 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati) | ||
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i drilled the center hole | ||
| Post# 479384 , Reply# 3 12/4/2010 at 15:39 (4,884 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati) | ||
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a better view | ||
| Post# 479386 , Reply# 4 12/4/2010 at 15:41 (4,884 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati) | ||
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this pic shows | ||
| Post# 479389 , Reply# 5 12/4/2010 at 15:48 (4,884 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati) | ||
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had to bend the
L brace to get it to not slide out from under agitaor.
was gonna just use the s hooks under the agitator but felt the L brace would give more support to the agitator itself. also thought about drilling 2 small holes in the vanes of the agitator and hooking s hooks thru the holes but didn't want to put holes in the shiny white speed queen's agitator! hate to start drilling and changing things unless i have to. had to drill about 6 holes in the bottom cone of one of my rollermatics to get top nut off but in that case it was a neccessity. did a thread on that one last year. 
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| Post# 479390 , Reply# 6 12/4/2010 at 15:55 (4,884 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati) | ||
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so it worked
perfectly and cost about 10 bucks to make.
would work on most top loaders i would imagine even if you didn't screw center bolt down into agitaor post. center bolt could simply rest on top of post and effect would be the same. agitator is out and i can continue exploring this new territory. know nothing about speed queen solid tubs. do have a later model speed queen perforated tub that melvin (supreme whirlpool) gave me last year. hopefully this little tid bit of a tip for washer repair will help someone else here. will do a thread on the speed queen very soon here. 
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Post# 479497 , Reply# 7 12/5/2010 at 00:41 (4,884 days old) by tolivac  (greenville nc) |
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that agitator puller reminds me of tube pullers used in some FM and older TV transmitters.Will have to try it! | ||
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Post# 479561 , Reply# 8 12/5/2010 at 10:35 (4,883 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers) |
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Thanks for the teck talk! | ||
| Post# 1146946 , Reply# 9 4/19/2022 at 20:30 (730 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
Old thread but timeless
This is the perfect thread, exactly what I was searching for. Our McClary washer from 1974 has had the agitator in place for nearly 50 years. I was looking for ideas to build a puller. I tried a ratchet strap under the agitator with a steel rod spanning the opening (on wood blocks to protect enamel). That didn't work very good;the strap wanted to slide out of place when ratcheting; not only that but the agitator was flexing a lot. I am going to drill holes in the agitator fins (maybe all 3 fins) so the pulling energy is focused closer to the shaft.
Is there something I'm missing here? This agitator does not have a center bolt holding it down to the shaft; is it held down by some other means?? | ||
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Post# 1146953 , Reply# 10 4/19/2022 at 21:51 (730 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis) |
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| Post# 1147058 , Reply# 11 4/21/2022 at 08:50 (729 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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1974 McClary Washer Model YWG1118W1291 AGITATOR Puller Pics | ||
| Post# 1147126 , Reply# 12 4/21/2022 at 21:47 (728 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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If there is tranny oil leaking by the seal, why can't a guy try some seal swell (Blue Devil or similar) in the tranny. I do that on many trannies, and power steering systems etc. Why not here?
I might be able to locate a new agitator, tub, or transmission too if necessary. I like these vintage machines, simple and built to last many decades. The new ones aren't. Too many electronics too. | ||
| Post# 1147147 , Reply# 13 4/22/2022 at 09:59 (727 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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Post# 1147149 , Reply# 14 4/22/2022 at 10:25 (727 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA) |
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Hi there!
Thought it may be helpful to point out a few things for you in regards to your McClary. Mechanically it is identical to the 1970-1979 Speed Queen DA/FA series washers, that foundationally are derived from the original Beam fluid power design from the late 40's. The transmission is completely independent from the overall drive portion of the washer. The chances of water getting into the transmission is quite slim. Are you seeing a lot of leaking oil on your machine? It may be helpful for you to download the Speed Queen DA service manual. It will detail all the service info needed to work on your McClary. www.automatice.org/cgi-bi... If you are looking for parts diagrams for the mechanical section, the parts info from a DA9101 listed at the link below should help: www.ereplacementparts.com... Parts are starting to get harder to find for even the DA series machines, outside of water valves, pumps, belts, and motors. Beyond years of hard water and soap, nothing else is holding the agitator to the drive block once the cap is removed. I often will spray some PB-Blaster between the drive block and the interior metal spline of the agitator and carefully heat up the drive block with a torch. Get it smoking and tap around the base of the agitator with your hand and give it a good tug. You also may want to start a new thread for help as this post is well over a decade old. Ben | ||
| Post# 1147206 , Reply# 15 4/23/2022 at 00:00 (727 days old) by slb77 (Pennsylvania) | ||
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Not sure if it would work on those machines, but on the newer Speed Queens and some older GE machines i use a pair of air shims that i can slide under the agitator and pump them up to pop the agitator off. For a really stuck one maybe 4 of them around the base. | ||
| Post# 1147253 , Reply# 16 4/23/2022 at 20:06 (726 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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@slb77 | ||
| Post# 1147257 , Reply# 17 4/23/2022 at 20:56 (726 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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@swestoyz
That is fantastic information swestoyz. I am going to spend the money to download the DA/FA Series manuals. Thanks for the links!
There seems to be some oil slinging around onto the inside walls of the washer but I think not bad for nearly 50 years of service. There was no oil visible under the agitator. I will let you know if I find any oil in scrud between the inner and outer tubs. I have good pics that I will post after I get the top and the inner tub off. We are getting there. Thanks | ||
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Post# 1147261 , Reply# 18 4/23/2022 at 21:23 (726 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA) |
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Oh goodness! Are the photos you just shared of the machine you’re working on? If so, that appears to be a Hotpoint rim flow, GE based washer. Totally different than a Speed Queen. A splattering of oil from the transmission pulley on a GE transmission is common.
Great use of a harmonic balancer puller! Ben | ||
| Post# 1147262 , Reply# 19 4/23/2022 at 21:28 (726 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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I drilled the top center of the shaft with a small bit, then a 5/16" or 3/8" bit so the center shaft of the puller wouldn't wander around when tightening it. I thought the agitator was going to slide off the the smaller inner most splines of the shaft but it turned out to be the bigger spline. The pictures show the smaller and bigger splines. The agitator pulled off fairly easily with the steering wheel puller configuration, and drilling the vanes but it probably would have worked with longer chains, and 'L' brackets hooked under the bottom of the agitator.
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| Post# 1147265 , Reply# 20 4/23/2022 at 22:25 (726 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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@swestoyz | ||
| Post# 1147269 , Reply# 21 4/23/2022 at 23:46 (726 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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Post# 1147285 , Reply# 22 4/24/2022 at 10:02 (725 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA) |
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Yes! This manual link below covers the technical service info for the ‘73-‘77 GE models, which should cover most of your Hotpoint. Thankfully there are a lot of parts available for these washers out in the wild, eBay, etc.
Ben CLICK HERE TO GO TO swestoyz's LINK | ||
| Post# 1147319 , Reply# 23 4/24/2022 at 19:13 (725 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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What is the main purpose of the wool felt packing up the bottom of the agitator? Is remainsd mostly intact, I think, after pulling the agitator of the splines.
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| Post# 1147321 , Reply# 24 4/24/2022 at 20:24 (725 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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...how the heck does that plastic cover around the bottom of the shaft in the inner tub come off; is it a simple spray lube and pry job?
I have attempted a picture to show the condition of the outside of the inner tub. There is rust around the many holes that are punched through the tub during manufacture. Although it doesn't appear that the rust is inside the basket, I suspect that it might be possible for the clothes to be pressed through the holes far enough during the spin cycle, to pick up a bit of the rust? What do you think; has the inner tub had the biscuit? | ||
| Post# 1147322 , Reply# 25 4/24/2022 at 20:25 (725 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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Post# 1147334 , Reply# 26 4/24/2022 at 23:20 (725 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis) |
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Yes I'm very surprised to see this is a GE made washer. That is why I asked to see a picture of this agitator. When I saw the name McClary and from 1974 I had assumed it was a model similar to this image below. I got this advertisement around 1974 but maybe this model in the ad is from 1973 so maybe there was a big change in '74 just as there was with US made Hotpoint washers?
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| Post# 1147339 , Reply# 27 4/25/2022 at 00:13 (725 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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@unimatic1140 | ||
| Post# 1147551 , Reply# 28 4/27/2022 at 15:41 (722 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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I can't figure out how the get the plastic 'tub boot' to pull up and off from the bottom of the shaft (so I can unbolt the inner tub/basket). I am going to buy/download the GE Manual. Maybe it will show something that will make it clearer.
There was a ton of lint built up under the agitator, shown in pictures below. There were 3 screws holding a cover on; it was jamb packed in there. | ||
| Post# 1147561 , Reply# 29 4/27/2022 at 18:13 (722 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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There is corrosion on the hub so I suppoae that is what is making the hub boot tight. There appears to be a lock tab on the boot but that doesn't appear to be what's holding it tight. I am going to try the hot water trick; fill the tub with enough hot water to cover the hub boot, then drain it and hope it softens the bond between the plastic and the hub. Exercise in patience.
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| Post# 1147572 , Reply# 30 4/27/2022 at 20:26 (722 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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I pulled the hub boot using the same steering wheel puller but with longer chains. I jammed a screw driver in the hub to trip the tab lock, while pulling the hub off. Incredible amount of scrud under there (scrud definition: soap, rust, lint, thread, dirt, grease, ruff:) My finger is pointing out the tab lock in the pictures.
I cleaned it up. The 3 12pt bolts that hold the tub are extremely corroded. I am going to have to bring in a compressor and an impact air wrench. I have sprayed them up with Deep Creep to soak overnight. If those bolts won't come out with anything less than drilling and easy outs, or a torch, this old girl may be destined for the scrap pile:( | ||
| Post# 1148714 , Reply# 31 5/14/2022 at 14:49 (705 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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Looks Like Success! | ||
| Post# 1149057 , Reply# 32 5/19/2022 at 12:56 (700 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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More pictures and procedures
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| Post# 1149058 , Reply# 33 5/19/2022 at 13:11 (700 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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More clean up and rust treatment pictures
I am just posting all of the pictures in groups here. It is too much work to get them all perfectly chronological. I wish I could put all the captions with the corresponding pictures but I have to upgrade my account to be able to edit.
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| Post# 1149063 , Reply# 34 5/19/2022 at 13:30 (700 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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Finished basket interior
Look closely and you can see the black POR15 around the inside of the basket holes. I masked the holes off, on the inside of the basket before treating the outside, so the POR15 wouldn't drip all over the interior.
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| Post# 1149064 , Reply# 35 5/19/2022 at 14:40 (700 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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There was rust present in a lot of places between the basket and the tub. It cleaned up well with a wire wheel, brush, sand paper, scrapers, POR15 Cleaner Degreaser, and POR15 Metal Prep/Etcher. I put the basket in a kiddie pool on the lawn, but had to do the outer tub prep in place in the house, taping over the drain holes to contain the liquids until the process was finished. It was a lot of work but with patience there was no turning back now.
I bought a small POR15 rust treatment kit (pictured) for around $45 CAD; Canadian Tire carries some POR15 products too, for a little cheaper. I needed a little more POR15 paint than what came in the kit, so I bought a '6 Pack' of 4oz cans (pictured). It's best to open just one small can at a time as needed because POR15 doesn't keep that well after opening. I cleaned and etched the entire surface of the tubs. I put one coat of POR15 on the areas that had been rusting, then went back and put another coat over everything. The underside of the top of the washer received POR15, and anywhere else where rust had begun to take hold. I figured POR15 was the best suited rust treatment system to use under these circumstances. It uses moisture to cure; doesn't require a topcoat unless it is subject to direct UV light of the sun. Get as much of the rust off as you can; POR stands for Paint Over Rust so stable rust is ok. POR15 has pretty strong fumes. It is as tough as nails. A pinhole did appear while scraping rust in the bottom of the outer tub. I used JB Weld to fill it before the POR15 was applied. I replaced the original corroded basket mounting bolts with stainless steel bolts and washers (HomeDepot). The lock tab on the plastic hub cover was sprung and no longer hooking on; I used a hairdrier to soften it while pulling it back into shape. I used a 4lb hammer to drive a solid rubber mallet down, to get the agitator fully seated; a little Vaseline helped on the splines. I got the motor drive pulley to align better with the pump pulley (where that sectional rubber flex coupling is) by adding a couple of steel washers to one of the three mounting points (I think there are before and after pictures). The hot water is slow filling into the tub. I need to see if there is a clogged screen in the fill valve, or if it's the house plumbing. That's all I can think of. The washer works like a dang! I am looking forward to it's 60th birthday! | ||
| Post# 1149065 , Reply# 36 5/19/2022 at 14:42 (700 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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THE HAPPY OLD COUPLE
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| Post# 1149066 , Reply# 37 5/19/2022 at 14:45 (700 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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| Post# 1149067 , Reply# 38 5/19/2022 at 14:53 (700 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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Afterthoughts:
The POR15 prep is water based so after the outer tub rinse, drain, and sponge I placed a small heater and fan in over night to dry it up real good in there before applying the POR15. After the second coat of POR15 in the outer tub I placed a fan in there to circulate the air to help with the curing. | ||
| Post# 1149068 , Reply# 39 5/19/2022 at 15:01 (700 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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I hope it's OK that I have been working with another forum to get this restore completed. Here is the link:
www.applianceblog.com/mai... | ||
| Post# 1149069 , Reply# 40 5/19/2022 at 15:09 (700 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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I need to mention that the original stalling problem the machine was having no longer exists. I turned the pump/motor a bunch by hand to get it going again, and it has not looked back. Maybe something caught in the pump, maybe that enormous srcud and lint build up, maybe all of the above.
It's nice to say it's FIXED. | ||
| Post# 1149096 , Reply# 41 5/19/2022 at 20:36 (700 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas) | ||
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| Post# 1179085 , Reply# 42 4/25/2023 at 18:17 (359 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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transmission trouble?
The old girl stopped spinning for my wife. I went down and spun the agitator by hand. It started going but didn't seem to be up to speed. I dialed in a final spin; at a certain point in the spin cycle it seemed to gain full speed. Does this sound like a transmission problem, and how difficult will it be changing out the tranny, if indeed I can find one. Can they be rebuilt; maybe I can find parts?
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| Post# 1179093 , Reply# 43 4/25/2023 at 20:49 (359 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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Old McClary washer transmission slipping? | ||
| Post# 1181293 , Reply# 44 5/25/2023 at 21:09 (329 days old) by tinkering (Alberta) | ||
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| Post# 1181302 , Reply# 45 5/26/2023 at 00:14 (329 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806) | ||
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