Thread Number: 3181
Unimatic WI-56 |
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Post# 81284 , Reply# 1   9/2/2005 at 08:13 (6,804 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)   |   | |
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I know exactly what you're saying about Midwest timer, I'm currently on the second timer in my 57 control tower washer. This is the third timer I'v put in that machine, two of them from Midwest timer and both with the exactl problem you describe. The motor contact in the timer gets warped and/or burned and the machine won't run. There is an enormous amount of voltage running through these timers and I don't think they are rebuilding them with strong enough materials. Keep us posted on what happens.
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Post# 81285 , Reply# 2   9/2/2005 at 08:24 (6,804 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)   |   | |
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How is the voltage in your respective areas? I know Long Island runs high. I have two WP electric stoves. On both, the surface element control swith for the largest elements (highest wattage) are arcing noisily and prodcing ozone. At this point two have been replaced already and it seems, just as with your timer, the materials used are not sufficient fot the task at hand. I think it's time for me to write a few letters. Who cares while the extended warranty is in effect [which I believe is a necessity with a smooth "glass" vitro-ceran non-user-servicable top]...but afterwards I won't like paying even for the part (a rotary switch). Watch them say something like "Not approved for use at that voltage......." |
Post# 81342 , Reply# 3   9/2/2005 at 15:20 (6,803 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)   |   | |
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It's actually the amperage that is hard on these timers, not the voltage, with a standard US house voltage of 115-125 volts at spin start up in a Unimatic it will momentarily jump from 6 or 7 amps at the most all the way up to 24 amps! This only lasts 10 or so seconds, but it is enough to heat up the contacts for both the main line and motor line.
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