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Thread Number: 3207
Parts and Repairs |
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Post# 81609 9/5/2005 at 00:44 (6,807 days old) by DADoES  (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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RJ's Imperial Seventy developed some trouble a few days ago. Spin solenoid. Upon investigating, I found the pump is also dripping. There's a floor drain under the machine so leaking hadn't been noticed. It has been mentioned that pumps (among other parts) for belt-drive Whirlpools are getting scarce, but I had no trouble finding both a wig-wag and pump at RepairClinic.com. But weeeooooo, a wig-wag is $25, and a pump $45 (3-port with a rubber plug for 2-port use). That's $75 for parts (with shipping). If the typical consumer also had to pay trip & labor and local taxes, that could easily double the cost, if not more. $150+ for a pump and wig-wag! I remember when pumps were $16!
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Post# 81610 , Reply# 1 9/5/2005 at 00:46 (6,807 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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| Post# 81622 , Reply# 2 9/5/2005 at 07:09 (6,806 days old) by Mayken4now (Panama City, Florida) | ||
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Post# 81667 , Reply# 5 9/5/2005 at 12:34 (6,806 days old) by Goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions) |
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Many washers are tossed that need simple repairs,or nothing at all. I picked up a newer matched set of Kelvinators the other day behind Lowes. They needed nothing,both worked fine. I don't know how many DD Whirlpools I've picked up that need a drive coupler replaced. Sadly,(or lucky for me!),it's a throw away society. kennyGF | ||
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Post# 81671 , Reply# 6 9/5/2005 at 13:40 (6,806 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Post# 82840 , Reply# 7 9/11/2005 at 21:15 (6,800 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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#%@#$*!
I got the pump changed and the old wigwag pulled, no trouble, but now I can't get the #%@#$*! new wigwag pressed all the way down onto the sector gear shaft. There's not enough working room to get much leverage on it. I don't recall having that much trouble with it years ago. Am I missing a trick, or have I gotten too weak and wimpy to do the job?? Only thing I can figure is file out the mounting hole just a bit.
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Post# 82844 , Reply# 9 9/11/2005 at 21:33 (6,800 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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The shaft is split for a tight fit. Apparently it's too tight. I lubed it with Vaseline and don't feel any burrs on it. I can get the wigwag rocked/jammed down enough to barely see the hole beginning to appear. Refuses to go any further. If I had the tranny out I could beat the idiot thing down with a hammer, but there's no reason a tranny should need to be pulled to change a simple wigwag.
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Post# 83891 , Reply# 11 9/18/2005 at 21:48 (6,793 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Got the repair finished this evening. Just a slight bit of grinding with a Dremel tool inside the wigwag mounting hole, and it slipped into place. The 20-year-old belt has a surprising lack of wear. Snugged it up, all appears well. There's a bit of oil drippage on the floor, but I suppose that's not unexpected after this length of time. Question: The wigwag plungers should of course not be lubed, but should the guides and cam bar slots have a touch of grease? The guides have the plastic inserts ... so perhaps not? I'm thinking that might cause them to stick. | ||
| Post# 83918 , Reply# 12 9/19/2005 at 09:06 (6,792 days old) by fixerman () | ||
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The cam bars should be greased. A dab on the bottom where they meet the transmission case and a dab on the plunger slots. Use silicone grease. | ||
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Post# 86627 , Reply# 13 10/2/2005 at 22:51 (6,779 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Post# 86642 , Reply# 15 10/3/2005 at 00:52 (6,779 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Already tried by-passing the lid switch. I *know* the spin solenoid was bad on the original wigwag, checked it. The machine *did* spin with the replacement wigwag. Solenoid, wigwag wires next to check, then timer. And the console wiring harness -- the console got broken loose some years ago from grabbing it when moving the machine. The owner tends to still dislodge the console when moving it, which pulls the harness plug loose.
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Post# 86816 , Reply# 16 10/3/2005 at 19:30 (6,778 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions) |
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Post# 87039 , Reply# 17 10/4/2005 at 20:42 (6,777 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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What *are* the odds?? | ||
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Post# 87069 , Reply# 18 10/4/2005 at 21:40 (6,777 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY) |
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Post# 87073 , Reply# 19 10/4/2005 at 21:44 (6,777 days old) by coldspot66 (Plymouth, Mass) |
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The outer tub could have a slight leak. Check the round opening in the baseplate above the wigwag. Sometimes water will drip on the spin solenoid and short it out. Was the replacement wig wag an FSP part. I find aftermarket parts somewhat inferior to OEM. | ||
| Post# 87117 , Reply# 20 10/5/2005 at 07:22 (6,776 days old) by repair-man (Pittsburgh PA) | ||
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or . . . if anything is causing the solenoid to not be able to pull completely in when energized. A bent plunger or cam bar ? They sometimes do bend. Maybe just a bad part. I agree with Coldspot66, I like FSP parts much better than aftermarket. But even they can fail occationally. Ed | ||
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Post# 87510 , Reply# 21 10/7/2005 at 12:44 (6,774 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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I don't recall the packaging of the replacement wigwag, but it appeared to be FSP. The box/packaging is still over there, will take a look. Should FSP or a part number be stamped on the wigwag itself, or just on the packaging? There was a plastic wire bushing included. We did get the parts from RepairClinic.com, they claim to have a one-year warranty.
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